Wisconsin Foodie

>> In this episode of Wisconsin Foodie, we travel outside the borders of the Dairy State, and make our way to the Big Apple, New York City, to celebrate the man known as James Beard. Our first stop is at the James Beard House in Greenwich Village. The Beard House holds nightly pop-up style dinners, and this evening, Madison's Chef Tory Miller of L'Etoile is cooking side by side with his mentor, Bill Telepan. Later, we hit up the red carpet for the annual culinary "Academy Awards" known as the James Beard Awards. Two of our own, Chef Tory Miller and Chef Justin Aprahamian are nominated for the James Beard Best Chef Midwest Award. All of that and more on this episode of Wisconsin Foodie. Wisconsin Foodie would like to thank the following major underwriters for their support. Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, representing the dairy farm families of Wisconsin, who fostered a proud history, with generations of family-owned dairy farms, working to sustain the state's economy through job growth and providing acclaimed cheeses and other dairy products. For more information on Wisconsin dairy,

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eatwisconsincheese.com >> Here in Greenwich Village on West 12th Street in Manhattan is home to the James Beard House. A living touchstone for America's culinary tradition. Since Beard's passing, hundreds, maybe thousands of renowned chefs have cooked extraordinary meals in the kitchen. But tonight, it's something special. One of our own, Tory Miller from L'Etoile and Graze in Madison, Wisconsin, is up for a Best Chef Midwest James Beard Award. He'll be cooking with someone that first fostered his career when he arrived in New York, renowned chef Bill Telepan. >> My name is Bill Telepan. I'm the chef/owner of Telepan Restaurant on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. Tonight, at the Beard House, I've gathered all the guys who were either sous chefs or cooks with me, who are doing really great things on their own. So, I invited them all to come back to cook a dinner with me at the Beard House. I invited Tory Miller from L'Etoile and Graze in Wisconsin, Josh Lawler from The Farm and Fisherman in Philadelphia, Mitch Sudock from Mitch & Tony's in Long Island, Chris DiMinno from Clyde Commons in Portland. Heather Carlucci, who's the chef at Print in New York City, and I brought Larissa Raphael, who's our pastry chef here. I also brought Ken Chang, who's my executive sous chef, who worked with basically, almost all of them. Cooking at the Beard House is always a great thing for young cooks. Being a chef for 16 years now, it was an honor to come here the first time. I've cooked here many times. You know, so for us chefs and all around the country and the world, it's really an honor to be here. And it's great to be doing it with these guys. >> Hi, Kyle. >> It's Izabela. We are standing beneath the plaque. This is the house! >> This is the house where James Beard spent his last 12 years, teaching, cooking, walking the neighborhood. We're in the West Village, you know, historic Bohemian kind of neighborhood. So we're in the front room. This is where guests check in. This is where chefs walk in. There's no loading dock. Behind me is the kitchen. James Beard was always in his kitchen, teaching, eating. We're about to experience that same thing. Come on in. >> It's a crowded room full of chefs. >> What else is new in this house? As guests, this is what you'd do. You would walk in here, you take in all the cooks. >> Tory Miller, how are you doin', buddy? Nice to see you. >> What happens here is the Foundation owns and operates this house as a performance space. We think of it as the Carnegie Hall, for example, or Lincoln Center. This is where chefs come and shine and tell their story in food. They represent their regionality. They represent their history. Tonight's dinner with all of these chefs, represents each of their different unique marketplaces and their locations. We've got a chef who's coming all the way from Portland, Oregon. We have some local chefs here.

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Not only does he represent for us, kind of a wonderful New York City chef, and someone who's involved in changing the food system in a public school setting, but also it's a reunion. He's brought together this group of former cooks who are now chefs at their own restaurants. And you know, they're representing the next generation. Where we're going now is the second floor, which is the main dining room. But it's also where James Beard had his private living quarters, so you're stepping into living space. >> This is true inner sanctum. >> This is the main dining room. It's about 55 seats. This is the open floor plan, so James Beard, this was his living quarters. >> Through the years, since the house was essentially saved in '85, the who's who of culinary butts have put themselves in these chairs for great meals. >> Yes. >> So what I love from my old restaurant days is exactly the electricity that's happening right now. The set up for dinner, which I cannot wait for. >> The back-of-house. >> Yeah. >> I'm saying, home slice, we're here in New York. You're here. >> Yeah, buddy. >> Yeah, I'm here 'cause of you, really, because you're going to cook in one of the single-most famous culinary destinations in the country. >> Exactly. It's always a trip when you walk through the kitchen and you realize that, you know, the number of chefs, you know, and the quality of chefs that have been through that kitchen is just astounding. To be a part of that group is just really, really, it's a real honor. >> What's it like? Bill Telepan was really instrumental for you. I mean, he found what you had and he kind of forged it, and being in New York did that. >> Yeah, well, when I think back at my career, I've had two culinary mentors, Odessa Piper, from L'Etoile, and Bill Telepan. Bill taught me everything I needed to know, and made me who I am as a cook. And Odessa made me who I am as a business owner. >> Interesting. >> And as a steward of L'Etoile. So, to be working right next to him is really incredible. It's not about innovation with him, it's about honoring ingredients and just being really, you know, quality, quality food. Starting with good stuff and ending with good stuff on the plate. As a professional chef and cook, and lover of this industry, to be able to do this dinner tonight, I feel very rich right now. It's really incredible. The chefs are great. The ingredient bases are all great. I've seen everything in the kitchen, tasted a lot of stuff. It's going to be awesome. >> What are you making? >> Tonight, we've got the first asparagus of the year from Wisconsin, so I brought that on the plane. I brought some morels, you know, some duck eggs that I brought from Green Bay. Everything on the plane with me. Some prosciutto that we carry at the restaurant. Yeah, we're going to finish that dish with just a little bit of sheep's milk cheese from the Wisconsin Sheep Dairy Co-op. I think it's just going to be a really great spring dish. Bill taught me so much about being in the kitchen, about, you know, working on the line. His restaurant at the time was Jetson Grill, and it was intense. Intense stuff. You know, all of us working here with him tonight, you know, we all have Bill stories, and things like that. But it's who we are now. He made us who we are now as cooks and as chefs. We have flowers on there... You're ruining my vision!

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>> Yeah, buddy. >> We're going in! >> Awesome. >> Wisconsin asparagus, right? Prosciutto. Got a little duck egg. >> Yeah, duck egg, and a champagne vinaigrette on some flowers called --, that taste a lot like broccoli. A little bit of brioche bread crumbs for texture. Some sheep's milk cheese and wild mushrooms. >> Thank you. >> You bet. >> It's so good! >> Can I drink your wine for you? >> Mm-hmm!

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Here's to great Wisconsin chefs. >> My dish is a heritage pork. We get our pigs from Flying Pigs Farm locally. We brined it for several days. We're going to roast it, and we're serving it with peas and carrots. We've got a carrot flan. We've got a pea pure, and we've got peas and carrots cooked with a touch of local honey, so it's very nice. One of my favorites. I think the flavor tonight is, you know, the guys are-- I think pretty much everyone sort of uses that sort of local seasonal philosophy that, you know, from all of their experiences. So we're really going to see what's in season, and what's going to come in season. >> Hot meat... >> Excellent dinner. And you know, given that it's this many number of chefs from so many different places, I feel like there's such a great, unified voice. I think part of it is, it's kind of all a similar philosophy, you know. It's delicious. >> Thanks, guys, all right! >> Nice job! >> Let's do a shot of tequila! >> Yeah! >> All right! >> All right, let's stop now! See you guys later. Cheers, thanks, guys, for coming tonight. >> Thank you. >> Awesome cooking with you guys again. >> Yeah.

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>> So this is it, the 2012 James Beard Awards at Lincoln Center in New York City. I am standing with a heel on the red carpet, where some of America's most amazing culinary talent is about to walk down. Two of our Wisconsin boys, Justin Aprahamian of Sanford, and Tory Miller of L'Etoile, are nominated for this year's Best Chef Midwest. There's no way when James Beard first went on the air in 1949 that he would know that something with this much great culinary gravitas would have his name as the namesake. But here we are. The esteemed, the extraordinaire, this is Chef Pepin. You are a living pillar of history for the James Beard. >> You mean I'm old! >> No! I mean you knew the man in person! >> Oh, yes, for many years. I cooked with him. I even gave classes. I mean, actually, I rented his kitchen, you know. Jim was always broke, and all the rest of us would say, "Jim, can I have your kitchen for a week? I have a group coming in." >> And he said, "I need rent." >> He would come down anyway, and eat with us. He was a great guy. >> When you started with French Laundry, you were one of young turks that was literally changing American cuisine. You were. >> Thank you. >> What did the Beards mean to you then? What do they mean to you now? >> Well, I think they always mean the same thing. They reinforce the quality of work that we did yesterday. With that reinforcement, it compels us to do a better job tomorrow. I think that's what we really take away from this, is that, you know, we celebrate tonight because we're being recognized for the quality of work we've done. But we know we have to come back tomorrow and do a better job than today. >> I think you could say that before the Beard Awards, the food scene in the United States was just sort of getting started, but it was scattered. What the Beard Foundation did by establishing these awards, was really to focus it, and to offer recognition, offer a benchmark that all the other chefs could sort of try to reach. In the last 21 years, it's astonishing the changes that we've seen in food in this country. >> Go back to that day for me when you were first cooking, the first chef in James Beard's kitchen. What was that like? >> Well, I think I remember when I met James Beard, you know, at our first get together of Who's Who in Food in America, and then when we did the first benefit there, which was amazing to be there, where he used to hang out, and really cook and help his friends cook, so it was really a cool thing, I think. I'm glad that his whole legacy is still there, and that people continue to honor his tradition, because he was all about American ingredients, American-style food. I think it's a great thing that the awards are named after him, and that we keep his legacy alive. >> James Beard. What are your thoughts about this guy? >> Well, he loved food. He loved to have a good time. He was a patron saint to the culinary industry. And that's, at the end of the day, 25 years later, we're still celebrating this award in honor of him, and really the profession that he was so adamant about bringing together. So you know, all praise to James Beard. >> Give us some impressions on him, the man, and what he did. >> Well, you know, he created all of this. I don't think he had this in his wildest imagination. But he was the first to say, you know, we were there last night at the Beard House, and I was saying to my wife, he's the first who said we need to celebrate what is American. And today, it sounds like just a ludicrously simple idea, but back then, it was really on the fringe. For many years, he was ostracized because of it. He was really considered a bit of a freak. But through his fantastic cooking, his recipes, and his sheer force of personality, he managed to become this focal point for American food and good chefs. I'm a fan of Wisconsin for two reasons. One is, its history in agriculture, which I don't think many people in America know. You know, it's one of those states that gets overlooked for its rich ecological tradition. Then, with Tory Miller, especially, and others, many others have done-- I shouldn't just single him out, but tonight is his night. But you know, the idea that a chef can capture some of that deliciousness from the land and turn it into a cuisine that reflects the landscape, I think is brilliant. >> What's up, buddy? >> How are ya? >> It's early, man. >> This is big! >> Yeah, man! >> This is major Wisconsin representation. >> Yeah, I haven't had a tie on in a really long time.

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>> How does, I mean, you just said hello to Michael White. You just walked past Wolfgang Puck. You've got, I mean, what's it like for you? >> Wolfgang, you know, we go way back, you know. We'll probably kick it later.

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>> Do you just have goose bumps, like, when I grew up in Racine, I had no idea. >> Yeah, I mean, literally from flipping burgers to the Beard Awards. You know, it's like an incredible moment. You know, I'm really enjoying it this year. Last year, it was like so nerve-racking. This year it's like, you know, not like old hat, but it's like you can really appreciate it a lot more, and savor the moments. >> Yeah. >> You know, I'm still super starstruck, so I like I always see people and just... >> What's your perspective-- >>...there's that guy, and that guy! >> We've got two. One other Wisconsin chef. Great Wisconsin representation this year. Michael White, also from Wisconsin, boom, on the New York list. I mean there's a lot of Wisconsin at the Beards this year. >> We're stacking the deck. But I'm just happy to be here, and like, I love all the chefs that are nominated in all the categories. It's just very awesome that there's still an event like this. You know, we work our butts off, you know, and we give up a lot for this profession, this career. And like, if we really want to make it, I really think you really do have to give up a lot. You do have to sacrifice a lot and work a ton of hours. I mean, everybody does that. But I mean, to have a night where you get recognized for the work that you do, whether you win, or you know, just get nominated, I think it's just an incredible experience, and one of those things that it's still the dream, you know, for a lot of the cooks in my kitchen, a lot of cooks in a lot of kitchens. >> We are so proud of you guys, I can't tell you. It means so much. >> It means a lot that you guys are here. I'm really excited for you guys to see this. >> Pride in the state and the people that grow the things. I mean, all of that. You know the story, but for it to come to fruition here. >> For sure, man. You know, 414, 608, we're in the building! We're in the building, so that's all I care about, man. >> Have a good night. >> All right, my brother. >> All right, see ya. >> See ya. >> You can look around and see it's a great big party. We're celebrating the coveted James Beard Awards. We're at Lincoln Center. Normally, it's a more sedate scene, I think. But this is just the biggest party in town. So every year, the illuminati of the food world come together to celebrate, you know, the winners, the nominees, and have the best food at a 2000-person event you've ever seen. >> How do you feel? >> Good. >> All right. >> A lot of people... >> Right on. So, did you wake up this morning with goose bumps? >> Not really. It's not up to me. There's nothing I can do about it. >> Right. What are you guys doing tonight? >> We have a duck borscht with Wisconsin duck brats and caraway cream. >> That sounds just like my mother tried to make. So when a James Beard nominated chef tells me to get in there to the buffet line, I'm going to follow his lead. How does it feel for you to be here after having won so many years ago, and back, and all these friends, and cooking again? >> It's good, because there's a lot of people here that it's like the old guys' night.

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A lot of people that have been here, you know, from, like I knew from the start of the Beard Foundation. >> Yeah. >> It's a very special night. >> Pretty exciting. Good to see you, thanks. >> Good to see you.

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>> This year's nominees for Best Chef Midwest. Our selection-- is evidence of an advanced and enlightened Midwest cuisine.

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They are producing outstanding and innovative food. And in the process, they are creating a new and vital--

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Here they are. >> Justin Aprahamian, Sanford. Gerard Craft, Niche. Colby Garrelts, Bluestem. Tory Miller, L'Etoile. Lenny Russo, Heartland Restaurant & Farm Direct Market.

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>> And the Beard Award goes to... Tory Miller, L'Etoile.

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>> Oh, my god! I just ran over Chef Pepin on my way up here! My bad!

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If I would've known that was you, I would've waited.

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That is so bad. Yeah, buddy.

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I really want to thank everyone that has gotten me here. Say "what up" to all my people at Graze and L'Etoile all back in Madison. Without you guys and your refusal to be mediocre, I wouldn't be up here. Everything goes to our farmers, the Dane County Farmers Market all the Madison farmers, like without you guys, I don't really know how to cook without your food, so truly amazing to be standing up here.

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Thank you to the James Beard Foundation, to James Beard for being such a crazy old weird dude...

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...to spark such awesomeness around the country, and for honoring us cooks. Really, it is an honor, and it's crazy for me to be coming from where I come from, and you know, from literally flipping burgers to the Beard Awards. So, yeah, buddy! Thank you guys.

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Whoo! Whoo!

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That's where it's at. The silver. Twenty-five years, man. I'll take it. So, Chef Pepin stands up, and you know, he knows me, and he messes with me constantly, but when I was coming down, he stood up to like let these people in, and I tried to like sneak through, and I ended up like almost knocking him over. I was like, "Chef Pepin, I'm sorry!" And he's like, "Oh, it's okay, Tory." You know, and he's like, "Go get your award." And I'm like, "Oh, yeah!"

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So funny, man. You think about everybody that's gotten you to where you are, and you've have all these things that you want to say, but like, you just, like, I could feel it, like getting emotional. And if I would've thanked like, you know, Odessa and Bill, and you know, everyone that I needed to thank, like I would've definitely cried in front of all those people, and I didn't want to do that. So, you know, I feel like, you know, obviously, without those guys, like, I wouldn't be where I am, as far as Odessa, with the restaurant, and you know, Bill with creating the monster that he did when I started working for him. Even once I sat down, I was like, my heart was pounding. I was just like, I just want it to be over, you know, but man, it feels so good right now. I'm not gonna lie. All I have to say is shots. We're doing shots. I'm buying shots for everybody. >> This is a huge night for Wisconsin. This codifies, in many ways, all the talent that we have, that we take for granted, and that we know in our hearts is true, that the rest of the country didn't always realize we had. This is huge. This is a Wisconsin night. This is here, the James Beard 2012 Awards, and we took it. >> Wisconsin Foodie is made possible by underwriting support from the following companies. The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board; Travel Wisconsin; Outpost Natural Foods Co-op; Wollersheim Winery; Alterra Coffee Roasters; and Something Special from Wisconsin. This episode of Wisconsin Foodie is now available on DVD through WisconsinFoodie.com You can also like us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter, and watch other content through YouTube and Vimeo. Wisconsin Foodie would like to thank the following major underwriters for their support. Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, representing the dairy farm families of Wisconsin, who fostered a proud history, with generations of family-owned dairy farms, working to sustain the state's economy through job growth and providing acclaimed cheeses and other dairy products. For more information on Wisconsin dairy, eatwisconsincheese.com