Wisconsin Foodie

>> This week on Wisconsin Foodie... >> Glorious Malone's headcheese has become a standard in that style of delicacy. But what's even more engaging, perhaps, is the story of the Malone family. Is there a certain amount of time they boil it, and that's proprietary, and I shouldn't even ask? >> Till it's done!

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We call this slice a one pounder. >> A slice of love. I thought you guys called it a slice of love. >> I know, a slice of love. >> That happens to be one pound. >> Headcheese is really a universal recipe. There is a recipe all over the world for it. >> People want to be a part of it. They want to be part of something that's fun and something that they feel ownership in. I think years ago, people in Milwaukee tended to shun and shy away from the culture of beer. But now I think it's coming full circle where people are realizing that that's a sense of pride, and you should be proud of that heritage. >> I think Milwaukeeans should be. >> We're a giant beer garden. >> Yes, absolutely. >> Wisconsin Foodie would like to thank the following underwriters for their support. Outpost Natural Foods Co-Op, and Superior Equipment and Supply. The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board and the dairy farm families of Wisconsin are proud to support Wisconsin Foodie, helping viewers celebrate our state's vibrant food culture. With nearly 11,000 family dairy farms, the Wisconsin dairy industry generates more than $26 billion annually for the Wisconsin economy, and brings recognition to the state for producing award-winning cheeses. >> Glorious Malone's headcheese has become a standard in that style of delicacy. But what's even more engaging, perhaps, is the story of the Malone family. Glorious and her husband were both products of the great migration, and opened a small grocery store here in this near northside neighborhood of Milwaukee. In the backroom, they essentially made this delicacy for friends and family. That grocery store grew to a bigger one, and eventually, the headcheese business really drove the ship, and they moved into a 12,000 square foot building, here in that same neighborhood. They're now two generations deep, and Glorious' daughter Daphne runs the business. It's a true Wisconsin story. It's a true American multi-generational story. And it's really delicious. >> Hi, I'm Daphne Jones from Malone's Fine Sausage. We create gourmet pork delicacies that are 100% meat and spices. They're created for the enjoyment for people who enjoy flavor. Our signature products are our hot and mild gourmet headcheese. We've also added new signatures, such as our country pate. Our headcheeses are southern renditions. My parents are both from the south. My father is from Tennessee and my mother from Louisiana. Their idea is from their roots. It's a recipe that is really all over the world, but ours is meat and spices, and lots of love. So our headcheese is basically a meaty pork delicacy. Our intention is to use the meatiest, the best of the meaty. So for us, the meatiest and the most precious pieces were the snout and the ears, and we were able to make that a really nice combination. >> So how long have you been putting a coat like this on? >> I've been doing this full-time for over seven years now. Off and on for over 50-ish. >> Fifty-ish. You don't look a day over 35. >> I love you! We're keeping him. >> Let's see some headcheese. >> Let's go see some headcheese. >> Enough of the sweet talk. >> Come on in. >> Whoa! This is one yummy flavor in the air. I bet you don't even have to pay these guys, just because it smells so good and feels so good in here. >> It's a great place to be. >> Yeah! >> So this is our cook room. This is our super-duper mixture room, where we're going to prepare everything, as you're seeing there, they're going to drop it, empty the baskets. >> Is that snouts and ear meat? >> Yes. >> And you put it in here. And how is it cooked? >> We simply boil it. >> Just boiled in water. >> Correct. >> So that crane says two ton max. You've never had that much snout and ear meat, have you? >> Not in one batch. >> All right, good. I mean, that's a lot of headcheese. >> That's a lot of headcheese. >> Is there a certain amount of time they boil it and that's proprietary, and I shouldn't even ask? >> Till it's done!

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>> Homespun wisdom is the best! >> Throw it against the wall, right? >> Right! What he's doing right there is what? >> Now, we're preparing, this is going to be a mild batch. We're making a mild batch. >> He's adding in the spices. >> Yes. >> Is it super proprietary, or is it something that anybody could make, but no one could get it right the way you guys do? >> I think it's all of the above. It is proprietary, and then no one can make it the way we make it. My parents began the business from our home into the grocery store on 6th and Hadley. When my father passed, my mother outgrew 6th and Hadley, and she moved to 17th and Center. When she outgrew that space, she wanted to build. She could've built this plant anywhere, but she wanted to come here, because she wanted it to be a light for people to see that anything can be done if you work hard and just really stick to it. So, she wanted to be an inspiration for the community. She wanted to be a collection, a combination and binding for the city. Her dream was for it to always stand here to be a testament of love and determination. >> Oh, this is, here we go. Oh! Instantly, my glasses come back from the steam. >> Wow, you can see again. Now, we've taken the product into the chill blast. It's going to drop the temperature really fast, so it doesn't have a chance to do pathogen things. >> Yeah, all the pathogens in me are dying right now. It's cold in here. >> This is where it's going to set, in this chill blast. They'll be there for the night. >> That's just one big refrigerator. >> One big refrigerator, indeed. Once we come take the packages out of the chill blast, now we're going to take it over to the cutting machine, so that we can slice it into the portions that we're going to package today. Today, we're going to package one pounders. With that machine there, they're going to get the portions that we need. We call this slice a one pounder. >> A slice of love. I thought you guys called it a slice of love. >> I know, a slice of love. >> That happens to be one pound. >> One pound. >> You know what this is like? Gold bricks, right here. >> I like the way you think. >> Fort Knox of headcheese. >> We could change the name. >> They are! They're like gold bricks, except they're kind of tan and yummy. I know how good they smell, from the room next door. Give me some toast! Somebody, give me some toast! >> Then when we're ready, we'll take these packages to the labeling area. We'll put labels on them. >> You've got to put the famous Glorious Malone name on it. >> Famous Glorious, so they can recognize the label. >> Yeah. >> Then we're going to fill orders for our customers and get those gold bars out to them right away. >> This is the mild, right? >> That's the mild, yes. >> The spicy is a little bit more red. You can see it from a distance. >> Right. >> How hot is the hot? >> It depends on your hot palate. It might be just temperate for a hot person, but it might be really spicy for a person who really likes mild. >> I'm a little bit of a wimp when it comes to hot. >> Then you might like the mild better. But I would actually try the hot, just to be sure. >> I will with you, if you hold my hand. >> I will. I will really be honored if you would try some of our products. >> Honeybunch, I skipped breakfast 'cause I knew I was coming. >> I love this! I love this, come with me. Come this way. >> I'm coming, I'm coming! >> Ha! >> Cold in there. >> Goodness. Now we can go try some wonderful deliciousness. >> I love it. >> Come on in. >> Plates of yumminess. I loved the tour, but I've got to tell you, I'm a little proprietary here on this part. This is what I've been looking forward to. >> Let me tell you about it. This is going to be our mild plate. >> Okay. >> And this is our hot plate right here. Headcheese is really a universal recipe. There is a recipe all over the world for it. >> So it's a global cuisine, it's just regionally within countries and then all of the continents, everybody knows headcheese. It's really an honoring the animal dish. >> Yeah. >> What's special about southern headcheese versus, I don't know, wild boars out in the west or something like that? >> I think it's the blend, the way we make it, the spices that we use. I think it's the way that we, the pieces that we've decided to use, and the fact that that's all there is. There is nothing added to it. There's no preservatives, no additives. >> There are so few things in our food systems now that are that way, so few. All right, I'm going to have a piece while I ask you more questions about your mom. So your parents had this store, and it was kind of a corner store in the neighborhood. >> Yes, and then when my father passed, in '63, then my mom began to run the business all the time. So, she was still making the product there, but she actually was making it so much that they didn't realize people were coming across state lines for it. >> Headcheese contraband! >> I know! But people were buying it and buying it, and then the inspectors got wind of it and they came to visit her one day. They asked her about this famous product. She was very proud and she said-- >> No fear. >> No fears, and she said, yeah. They wanted to know, had she made the headcheese. Well, yes, I did. She went and showed them where it was, and they told her they had to destroy it because they were the inspectors and she wasn't licensed to produce and sell. So, she became the first African American woman to become federally inspected. >> Which is really cool. But I mean, the neighborhood counted on her, so she was going to make this with love, and no one was gonna, I mean, talk about food safety to the nth degree. >> Yeah, she was very particular. >> So really, these are big shoes to fill. >> Yes, I think so. >> And you started filling them in 2005. >> Yes, I actually officially came in at 2006, when she actually became very ill and she couldn't work here anymore. >> Yeah, but you're carrying a torch. >> I am. >> That's pretty cool. >> I'm very happy to be able to do it. >> All right, let's toast with crackers. I want to see which one you're gonna try. >> Well, I like them all. >> Spoken like a true CEO. >> I'm actually going to try this one. >> You're going to go with the party, the jazzy hot party in your mouth. >> A hot party in my mouth. >> Okay, and you always say think outside the cracker, but this is the classic headcheese way, right? Cheers. >> Cheers. Mm-mmm, mm-mmm-mmm. >> I mean, I don't know if it's the spices, or if it's just because it's snouts and ears, if it's the love, but there's almost nothing more flavorful. >> It's such a wonderful magical. >> It's soft. It's got that great pork, slightly --, there's a little bit of salt. I don't know what you guys are doing with the spices, but it's just right. >> A little bit of texture. Real smooth. >> You know what this reminds me of in a different way, is like when you're feeling kind of crummy and your mom makes you a bowl of oatmeal and it just sets you straight. >> Mm-hmm. >> That's what this is, only with pork on a cracker. >> I'm gonna use that, too. >> Oh, man. Then the spices that you guys have, I mean, you guys should be teaching classes, because it's balanced. It's just like boom, boom, boom. It steps down across your palate. Yeah, exactly. >> A great, great idea. I'm glad they decided to not just only share it with friends and relatives. >> Just so you know, I'm kind of a fan of the, oh, would it be HCLT, instead of the BLT. >> The HCLT, I love that idea. I'm gonna use that, too. >> Oh, man, Honey!

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Thanks for having me over. >> Thanks for coming! >> You bet. Lunch here again tomorrow. >> Tomorrow. Same place. >> Same place, just set up the sunroom. >> We can do that. >> Yeah, shut down the office for a minute. >> We can do it. >> Good. >> I'll plan it. >> Thanks. >> Thank you so much. >> I'm Peter Adams with Milwaukee Firkin Craft Beer Festival. I'm gonna grab one of these from you, sir. I started it about four years ago, with the intent of celebrating Milwaukee's brewing heritage. It started out with about 1000 people the first year. Now it's grown to about 1600-1700. As you can see, a lot of people in Milwaukee love craft beer, and we hope to keep growing that. >> There's beer in these kegs. >> Whoo! >> Hi there, my name is George Bregar. We're here at Firkin Fest. We're here a little bit early today to get set up, because we're actually serving... That looks good. It looks right.

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A couple of our first seasonal beers, which we have brewed at 3 Sheeps in Sheboygan. We're really excited to be doing Firkin Fest. It's the first time we've actually done this festival. What we brought today is basically a farm house style ale. But we used a really unique ingredient. It's actually from a coffee farm. That ingredient is called cascara. And what cascara is, is it's actually the skin or the peel off of a coffee cherry. When the coffee cherry gets processed at the farm, and it sort of has this kind of green tea flavor, like green tea mixed with kind of an herbal fruity character. We've got to serve it? Can't we just keep it for ourselves? >> Firkin Fest came about, we at East Town Association were thinking about doing a beer festival, and as circumstances would have it, Curt was thinking about doing a beer festival in Milwaukee. So the stars kind of aligned. We wanted to a beer festival. Curt wanted to do one in Milwaukee. I think we were one of the first resurging beer festivals in the city. So, it was just a good relationship. What is a Firkin? Tell me. >> Well, real quickly, the firkin origin came from, it was a unit of measurement. >> Right. >> People back in England, that's where it started, wanted to get a container of lard, or butter, or something, and they would get it in a firkin. But it was also used for beer. Why it's important now, is it kind of takes everybody back. It's cask edition ale. It's naturally carbonated with vents in the barrel, not CO2 gas or nitrogen. So, you get these very unique organic flavors. People are looking for something new and different. They're not going to find this at the liquor store, and they're not going to find it in any taverns. It is, like you said, a one-off, so the brewmasters can let their creative juices flow. >> Exactly. >> And do a bacon bourbon beer, like Hinterland. >> Absolutely. >> Which is delicious. >> There's a lot of real interesting takes on the recipes that the brewers have, that they've added to the Firkin. So, we won't see most of these next year. >> Which is the beauty of it, kind of like Burning Man. >> Yeah. >> Set it up and burn it down. >> Never the same thing. It always looks different the next time you do it. >> I'm Grant Pauly, founder and brewmaster at 3 Sheeps Brewing Company in Sheboygan, Wisconsin. Today is going to be our Really Squiddy Waterslides. We took our IPA, our best seller, Really Cool Waterslides, and added squid ink to it. I got this idea from pasta that they do over in Italy, where they blacken it with squid ink. I thought let's try to make a black IPA with that. So, we added it to it. We'll pour a sample here in a sec, I guess, but it turned out nice. It's a little briny, and that just enhances the hop characteristics and flavor to it. You get a good, kind of slight seaweed note on the nose. One of the fun things with firkins is when we put the ingredients together, we don't get to taste it ahead of time. So today was the first time we've had a chance to see how this was going to come out, and it met the expectations. A nice and dark head cascading down to a black beer. You can start to pick up the squid ink on the nose. You're getting a little of that brine, kind of seaweed sea characteristic. When you take a sip, it really just opens up that bitterness and makes it a little bigger than the Really Cool Waterslide normally is. The hops linger longer in the mouth, and you just get a very, very subtle shell flavor that kind of helps bring everything together. It really just rounded out Waterslide, and made it a bigger beer. >> I'm Mike Brenner, the founder and brewmaster of Brenner Brewing Company. Brenner Brewing Company was an idea that I came up with about five years ago. I was home brewing in front of my art gallery in River West, and decided there had to be a better way to support local artists, a more sustainable way. So I went back to school, got an MBA, went to Germany, got a master brewer diploma, and then I've been working my butt off coming up with recipes and raising money so I can start my brewery. There you go, enjoy. So today, I've got a ton of different beers. The idea is just kind of give people a sample of different possibilities of what I might be releasing. So on firkin today, I've got something a little bit different. I've actually never brewed it before. A couple weeks ago, I was trying to figure out what I was going to do, so I ended up doing a really chocolatey stout with oatmeal and cocoa nibs, that also had strawberries kind of steeping in it for a couple days. So, it's kind of a chocolate covered strawberry stout. Once it warms up, you really get a lot of that chocolate and strawberry. It's really suited to a firkin, so it's not an ice cold beer. You really lose a lot of that great flavor. Another beer that I have that I'm really happy with is, I call it AffenKonig, which is German for Monkey King. What the Monkey King is, is it's another kind of German-inspired beer from my time studying brewing in Germany. In Munich, there's one brewery that has a hoppy Weiss beer, which is really something that nobody else does. So I wanted to do my take on it. So I came up with a hoppy Weiss beer that's twice as strong at 8.1%, and three times as hoppy than most Weiss beers. I really tried to pull out the banana and the fruit flavors with the hops and the yeast, so that I could kind of make it just something people wouldn't expect. A lot of what I try to do really is take a traditional style and do something a little bit different. A lot of it is about experimentation. >> How would you compare Milwaukee's beer knowledge to the other events you've done? >> Every single market that I do a festival in is very unique and very different. But the common denominator with everybody is in a very short period of time, beer knowledge has gone from zero to up that scale. And what you would've thought would've taken a decade, has taken 2-3 years. >> It's because of that little invention from Al Gore, I think. >> Yeah, the internet has really helped propel this. I think though, because it's local, because it's unique, and I think because it's a social entity and all of the breweries that we have are socially involved with their community and constituents, people want to be part of it. They want to be part of something that's fun. It's something that they feel the ownership in. >> I think years ago, people in Milwaukee tended to shun and shy away from the culture of beer. They didn't want to be associated with Laverne and Shirley. But now I think it's coming full circle, where people are realizing that that's a sense of pride, and you should be proud of that heritage. >> I think Milwaukeeans should be. You've heard me say this before, there's a lot of worse things to be known for. You know, when you hear about, when people talk about Milwaukee to an outsider, generally speaking, they don't have a negative impression. They think Milwaukee is kind of this fun-loving town. >> Which we are. >> And I can't think of why that would be a negative. Now, is that something that you want to promote, I think it is, because a lot of people would love to have the attitude that Milwaukee has about, you know, entrepreneurialism, and about great craft beer, social gatherings where people love festivals. What's not to like? >> Summertime in Milwaukee. There's something to do every day. >> Look around this is exactly what we hoped it would do. >> We're a giant beer garden. >> Yes, absolutely. >> Thanks, Curt. Thanks for taking some time to talk with us. >> It's been fun. A great time. >> Firkin great. >> Firkin great, firkin awesome. Firkin outstanding. >> Wisconsin Foodie would like to thank the following underwriters for their support. Outpost Natural Foods Co-op; Superior Equipment and Supply; the restaurants of Potawatomi Bingo Casino; Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources; Something Special from Wisconsin; and Colectivo Coffee Roasters. The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board and the dairy farm families of Wisconsin are proud to support Wisconsin Foodie, helping viewers celebrate our state's vibrant food culture. With nearly 11,000 family dairy farms, the Wisconsin dairy industry generates more than $26 billion annually for the Wisconsin economy, and brings recognition to the state for producing award-winning cheeses. >> This episode of Wisconsin Foodie is now available on DVD at WisconsinFoodie.com. You can also like us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter, and watch past episodes through YouTube and Vimeo.