Wisconsin Foodie

This week on Wisconsin Foodie

How is the Death's Door BBQ Competition doing?

audience cheering

This week on Wisconsin Foodie

Dick, I stand in awe because you take BBQ, which is not an endemic Wisconsin tradition-- And you were crazy enough to say, "Yeah, let's do it up here and the people will come."

Kyle yelling

This week on Wisconsin Foodie

And they did!

And they keep coming back. - Kyle

En masse.

Ten o'clock exactly

We all open a beer, pop a top on a beer, and drink it. It's a lucky beer for BBQ.

tab clinks against can

Ten o'clock exactly

Good luck, everybody. The fundamentals of BBQ are easy. Winning at this sport is really tough. Here he is cutting up what we call the "money muscle" because if you cook this right it makes you money. Delicious. That's righteous BBQ. But if this is cooked right, we're gonna have a nice pink smoke ring underneath the bark and it's going to lay over your finger.

Kyle

Oh, God, look at that fall apart. It's barely holding. This is a happy place. This is a good place to be. Wisconsin Foodie would like to thank

slow banjo music

the following underwriters for their support

Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board representing the dairy farm families of Wisconsin, who fostered a proud history with generations of family-owned dairy farms. Working to sustain the state's economy through job growth and providing acclaimed cheeses and other dairy products. Every product tells a story and every story starts with a seed. Your story, your product, your company all started with an idea. Illing Company ensures you have the right packaging to help you proudly take your harvest to market. Illing Company is dedicated to packaging your vision. American Kitchen Cookware is proud to support Wisconsin Foodie and helping food lovers everywhere embrace their own culinary adventure. With cookware manufactured right here in Wisconsin, we're working every day to make people's lives better in and out of the kitchen.

lively banjo music

the following underwriters for their support

Employee-owned New Glarus Growing Company has been brewing and bottling beer for their friends, only in Wisconsin, since 1993. Just a short drive from Madison, come visit Swissconsin and see where your beer's made. Milwaukee's landmark art deco hotel offers luxury accommodations, legendary hospitality, and world-class dining. Award-winning chef Jason Gorman's contemporary take on cuisine, paired with the hotel's "Roaring '20s" vibe, makes the Ambassador a must-experience destination. Society Insurance, small details, big difference. Edible Milwaukee magazine. Also, with support of the Friends of Wisconsin Public Television.

fast upbeat music

car whooshing by

chickens clucking

beverage bubbling

knife chopping

popping

sizzling

lively jazz band music

fiddle music

Kyle

When Spanish explorers first came to the Caribbean Islands in the 16th Century, they saw folks grilling on the beach and they called it barbacoa, which is now the great American tradition we call BBQ. So in a way it's appropriate that one of the Midwest's best BBQ competitions would be on Washington Island at the very tip of Door County. Folks from all over the country travel across the Midwest, up over the peninsula, load their rigs onto the ferry, cross the waters, and come here to smoke and grill. And it's delicious.

fiddle music

Kyle

So, I take it this Washington Island BBQ experience is all your doing, correct? Yes we started this six years ago. There was three of us that were judges and we decided that we're going to try to get an event on Washington Island. So we contacted Kansas City BBQ Society. They're the overarching kind of, ah, I don't know, Grand Poobah of BBQ.

They set the standards and... - Dick

Right.

Kyle

So this is the 4th year?

Dick

6th year.

Kyle

Sixth year, okay, so we're past the presidential term and we're getting into the 7th inning stretch. And how has it grown? Was it an overnight success?

Dick

Well the first year we had to have 15 teams. We had 24 and we figured, "Well, we're going to get 1,500 people up here." We ended up close to 3,000 people. All the vendors ran out of food and some people still remember that. But since then, we've been building and we're up to 42 teams now.

Kyle

You don't run out of food anymore?

No. - Kyle

'cuz there's one thing that is a cardinal sin here in Wisconsin and it's running out of food.

both laugh

slow guitar music

Kyle

Let's take a walk and point out some of the folks that you really--

Okay - Kyle

Cool.

Dick

So we've got Chef Jeff here from Fox Valley Technical College. They have a Chef's Gone Grillin' team. They have been in our contest every year but once and they've actually finished high as second place. And right over here we've got Porky Butts. They were the number one team in the country last year. Really? - Yes. They made the trip all the way up here for the first time. And, as you can see, everybody has a good time. And then you've got Tim's Full Belli Deli. He's out of Oshkosh.

Ten o'clock exactly

We all open a beer, pop a top on a beer, and drink it. It's a lucky beer for BBQ. Five, four, three, two, one.

tab clinks against can

Ten o'clock exactly

Good luck, everybody.

cheering

Dick

He was the number 10 team in the country last year in brisket. So that tells you a lot about his team. I mean, to be number 10 out of 7,000, 7,500 teams, that's telling you something. And, again,

I go back to

he's a northern barbecuer. He's coming out of Oshkosh, Wisconsin instead of just outside of Memphis. Yeah, we've got a lot of great cooks here from Wisconsin. There's quite a few and actually, he's the president right now of the "Wisconsin BBQ Posse."

Kyle laughs

Dick

Which is a group of teams that compete out of Wisconsin. Hello, my friend. - Good morning, Kyle. How are you? - Nice to see you. Good, how's the barbecuing world?

Tim

Going good. We can only do 25 to 30 comps a year. I think in the Wisconsin BBQ Championship right now, we're leading the overall. We're one in brisket, one in pork, and one in ribs. If we'd win, it'd be our fourth one. Here's to winning this year, this time.

Thank you. - Kyle

Continued success.

Tim

Okay I've gotta go do chicken.

Kyle

All right

Tim

We'll pick out the best six and sauce them again. Sauce caramelizes at about 165 degrees those legs are at 195, so that's sauce-- So that's caramelizing. And just leave a nice shiny glaze.

Kyle

Truly

Tim

That one, that one, that one.

Kyle

It's like a piece of chicken candy.

Tim

When you french the bones on one of these, you're called "lollipops." Now that's one I'm guessing you won't use because of the little knock right there. And all black. We turn in 6 chicken drumsticks, but we cook 18. The 12 that are left over, Bob's wife, my wife, and Liz, they hand them out to the public so they can try what real BBQ is. We do the same thing with our pork and brisket. We don't charge anything.

Kyle

The meat is done perfectly. The seasoning is not overwhelming. You can still taste the chicken. A lot of cooks in competition BBQ don't realize it's a meat contest, not a sauce contest. Thank you, thank you! We want to taste sweet, meat, and then heat. So what do you look for when you're picking out the six?

Tim

Now you want all these hammers going the same way because most judges are right handed so they're going to pick up that piece of chicken and they're going to put the big meat side in their mouth.

Kyle

That's a great strategy. That's so simple.

Tim

And it does work.

Cook

And it looks better.

Kyle

I mean, we've got tweezers. We've got Q-tips. We've got little extra parsley.

Tim

Gotta move the parsley around till it's perfect. The box you want to see is our rib box.

Kyle

Oh, I'm coming back. So you wrap it in a cozy? Oh, this is so great!

Tim

That's for good luck. - Absolutely. And then, if you want to walk down by the guy.

Kyle

Yup.

Woman

Thank you. Good luck to you guys.

Contestant

Good luck. Good luck to you guys.

Kyle

Look at this!

laughs

Kyle

Everybody's flying in like dive bombers with delicious chicken. This is a happy place. This is a good place to be.

slow guitar music

Kyle

What does it take to be a judge?

Judge

Generally, it's people that have an interest in BBQ anyway. Some of them cook-- Well, that's most of America my friend. Well, it is but this is even a little bit different. These people get trained and certified as a BBQ judge for Kansas City. And it's-- Part of it's theoretical and the rest of it is tasting-- They want to get serious about having a really good time. They're serious about it, yes.

Kyle

Okay, tell me about the categories because I want no misunderstandings. There's four?

Judge

It's chicken, ribs, pork, and brisket are the four main meats that we judge.

Kyle

And then, there's a dessert.

Judge

And sometimes, there's a dessert. What's your favorite of the four categories? Ribs. - Ribs. Why? Do you want to think about that for a second? No. - No. I cook ribs. I like ribs. That's what I like the most.

Tim

Wow! You guys can eat these. You're going to like this, Bob That's good. - That is very good.

Kyle

What I'm seeing beyond the sauce is a lovely smoke ring on here though.

Tim

Here, want to see a smoke ring? Look at this.

Kyle

That pink, that's where the smoke permeated. I know that there's dyes and all that other stuff, but that's gotta be earned.

We don't do that. - Kyle

Yeah. And you can't have what's called "a shiner", right, where you've got the bone coming through...

On the top. - Kyle

On the top.

Tim

You can on the back. That's righteous BBQ. You know what it's like? It's like that great third chew of a soft piece of bubble gum but, no seriously it's got that rich porky smoked flavor.

Adam

Chew through the crust and you finally get it right. Clean, but a little tug should not drop off just like that.

Kyle singing

Adam

That's happiness in my mouth.

Tim

Real good, Adam. So we've got six racks we're trying to put in tin. We didn't have to dig through four or five racks of ribs to get six pieces. We fill the box full of food, show the judge the confidence we have in our cooks. The judge sees that and thinks, "Look at that one. Look what I get to eat!" Your science and artistry that this pit crew's got going, you thought through almost everything-- maybe everything, I just don't know. That's beautiful. What do you think? I agree.

Kyle

But I'm realizing now it's such a fine line that all of you are competing on. Here you go. - Thank you. Dick, I stand in awe because you take BBQ, which is not an endemic Wisconsin tradition. We have a lot of incredible food traditions. I think one of the states with one of the best food traditions, as far as depth and variety. BBQ isn't one of them. And you were crazy enough to say, "Yeah let's do it up here and the people will come."

Yeah. - Kyle

And they did!

Dick

And they keep coming back.

Kyle

En masse.

Dick

Yeah, everybody loves it up here.

person howls like a wolf

Dick

They enjoy coming up here. They have to wait sometimes in line for a couple of fairies, but they still wait and they come up here, so...

Kyle

Well, everything about BBQ is not fast.

Dick

Everybody's got their own little secret, but, yeah, it comes down to low and slow.

Kyle

If you rush it, you ruin it.

Dick

The only thing they worry about is the turn in times. That's the only thing they gotta worry about because if they don't get there in time, their entry doesn't count. How are you doing today? We're doing good. How about you?

Judge

Well, we're in the last minutes of turn in... so we're waiting for two more entries. Here it comes. One minute left. You got it. Plenty of time. Right here. Thank you, sir.

Kyle

You've made Washington Island-- at least this weekend-- a true, national destination if you're into good BBQ.

Dick

And there's really no bad BBQ here. These guys are all good and they enjoy themselves.

Kyle

And walking around grilling and eating it isn't just Wisconsin.

Dick

We've got Texas, we've got Florida, Nebraska.

Kyle

Yeah, I mean, these are far-flung places and these are not small operations to pull.

Dick

No, this isn't your regular backyard. This is big time BBQ. We put this 35' trailer on a boat and bring her on over. And we do alligator ribs. We take a dog bowl, and cut it up, and give you a slab of ribs in a dog bowl. Get to take the bowl home with 'ya.

Kyle

So right here we've got?

Dick

This is the legend, Johnny Trigg, making the long trek up here.

Kyle

All the way from Texas?

Dick

Yep.

Johnny Trigg

I lost my father when I was 12 years old. I had an aunt and uncle that practically raised me. And my uncle, he grilled. He had a grill and I thought that was just awesome. So in 1989, a BBQ contest was going on at a flea market. So I said, "Ma, well, let's go out there." There were 30 teams there. And I watched them run it and I said, "Man, I gotta do this." So Monday, I went and bought me a BBQ pit. And mom and I hit the road in '99, and we wore out six motor homes. And I won the Jack Daniels World Championship twice. I don't know how many grand championships I've had. I've never kept count of it, but I've won a bunch. Well, I've cooked all over the country. It's hard to pick out one better than the other. They're all great. I've got some friends that live up here. They were telling me about the cook off and the island and everything so I said, "Well, let's call 'em and see if we can cook it." So we called and got ahold of Dick up here. And we got the last spot. You've got more of them there than you do over here. You've got to scoot them over You coming back next year? - What? Coming back next year?

Woman

You're coming back next year. Uh...

laughter

Dick

Our first year, we had the contest just on Saturday. Teams would come up Thursday, Friday. Now we've got a two-day contest, Friday / Saturday. We had teams come up on Monday already, and spend the whole week. Some were going to stay till Monday. I know last year, I had 180 judges sign up for 52 spots. I've got judges that ask me today, "When's next year's contest?" They want to sign up for it. To judge here you've got some of the best BBQ talents here. The weather's great. You're made.

Kyle

These are the perfectly done little nubs.

Tim

Here he is cutting up the what-we-call "the money muscle" because if you cook this right, it makes you money. Delicious. That's really good. But because it's in the shoulder, there's the end of the tenderloin in it. We know how to carve it out. We cook it, we slice it, and then we take one off a different one and we make chops. You get two distinctly different pieces of meat that came from a tenderloin. Oh, that's perfect. All other BBQ is dead to me. That's perfect.

slow guitar music

Tim

So, how hard is barbecuing? Because you teach fundamentals, you teach them other sauces, you teach all of that, but this is basically flame, time, seasoning? Heat, moisture. You know, the fundamentals of BBQ are easy. Winning at this sport is really tough. It's a very tough sport. Very humbling.

Kyle

Yeah.

Jeff

You submit your stuff, and the judges have every opportunity to enjoy yours as much as the next guy. You know, for us, we're out here, all of our winnings go for scholarships. Over the years, we put over $10,000 in the bank. Our last competition, we did quite well. Took home several hundred dollars, put that in the bank. We're very blessed to have the opportunity to impact future generations. Of the categories of BBQ, what's your favorite to eat? And what's your favorite to cook? I would have to say at this point probably the ribs are still pretty far up there. Favorite to cook? That's also all over the map. I'm doing the pork right now so I'm into what we're doing with the pork. But brisket's probably the most challenging to cook. It's a very, very tough piece of meat. It's the toughest muscle on the carcass.

Kyle

Right. - It's the chest of the animal. You could pull a car out of the ditch with it.

Kyle laughs

Kyle

It's really, really tough. And so, in order to get it so it's palatable, the collagen has to convert over to gelatin. That happens somewhere in that 170-degree range. And you have to get it hot enough so that when you slice it, it still holds together nice. It's not falling apart like hash. I'm listening to you talk about collagen, gelatin and temp and I can tell you do this for a living.

Jeff

Those are nice ones right there. You cannot participate in this sport without learning something every single time. And myself, as an educator, I'm always trying to get better for my students, for my college so that we're turning out better students.

Kyle

I'm going to get out of your way because I know you've got about 10 minutes and then it's go time. Good luck on your cook today, buddy.

Group

Good luck, man.

slow guitar music

Group

I'm going to tell you something. If you like meat and you're a foodie, no beef has the taste of Wagyu or Kobe. Twelve of these briskets is $2,200 bucks.

Kyle

So this is the Wagyu-Kobe blend? Yeah. Straight out of Idaho?

Tim

It's probably the best- tasting piece of meat there is.

Kyle

Eight of the ten best barbecuers in the country are right here and they all keep talking about you.

Canella Keelson

Yes. - And you're not barbecuing? Well, I'm not. I just provide the briskets. Well, we sell the briskets, but we brought the Japanese Kobe bred them with American Angus to create American Wagyu beef. And these guys have all been very successful with it. Winningest brisket in BBQ.

Tim

But if this is cooked right, we're going to have a nice pink smoked ring underneath the bark and it's going to lay over your finger.

Look at that edge. - Tim

Like a wet noodle. Here's the first slice. Now we go from end to end.

Kyle

Look at the smoke ring. Oh, God, look at that fall apart. It's barely holding, but it's just-- Oh, yeah.

Tim

Oh, my God. Oh, you don't even have to chew.

Annella Kelso

I go to contests all over the country. It's your job to go to BBQ contests, which has got to be brutal. It's tough, it's tough - Yeah. But somebody's got to do it. Yeah, and you're from an outfit called Snake River Farms.

Yes. - Kyle

Not Wisconsin.

Annella Kelso

Not Wisconsin. Boise, Idaho

Kyle

Boise, Idaho. But what you think of Wisconsin BBQ? I would say Wisconsin's in that top five of where I go. It's amazing. The artistry you all put into your BBQ... It's no accident you've won as many times.

Tim

Well, it's 75% skill, 25% luck. You've gotta get on the table.

Man

And then what?

Tim

You get first place. Second place is not bad. Second place is first loser.

Man

If you ain't first, you're last.

Tim

If you ain't first, you're last.

Emcee

Okay, we're going to get started.

We've got a special announcer here

Kyle Cherek from Wisconsin Foodie. He's going to be announcing all the winners.

cheers and applause

We've got a special announcer here

Hello, everybody.

cheers

We've got a special announcer here

How is the Death's Door BBQ Competition doing?

cheers

We've got a special announcer here

All right. In 15th place in chicken, Crack House BBQ.

applause

We've got a special announcer here

In 14th, Smoke and Triggers.

applause

We've got a special announcer here

A round of applause to one of the great originals.

applause

We've got a special announcer here

All right, Dick, what do you think of your 6th annual? It was amazing. All the top teams finished in the top. We even had a couple of the teams that aren't always at the top move up.

Kyle

A couple of, not really upsets, but I think there was some folks out there that were surprised that they placed where they placed.

Dick

Most of these people know each other and they just look forward to getting together with them and you know, party, stage food. With all these super teams here it's good for them.

cheers and applause

Kyle

In 2nd place, Chicken and Grinning.

applause

Kyle

And in 1st place, one of the folks that really, really did just a whole bunch to foster this great BBQ culture

that we've got here in the state of Wisconsin

Tim's Full Belli Deli.

cheers and applause

that we've got here in the state of Wisconsin

It's about time.

laughter

that we've got here in the state of Wisconsin

Three pork first places in a row. Hey, congratulations. Congrats, Bob

Kyle

I have to say, I mean, I never expected something like this would work up here.

Dick

We never did either, but it's growing every year. Fan that flame,

my friend. - Dick

Oh, we will. -It's been a great day, my friend. Well, thank you for coming. - Thank you. Appreciate it. - We're on the next ferry out.

Dick

Okay, thanks again. Appreciate it, guys. Alright, this is the overall ranking.

This is the big one

Shake and Bake Barbecue

applause

This is the big one

It's tough when you've got to carry your trophy up to get another trophy, right?

laughter

This is the big one

Congratulations! Here, you can have the check.

slow guitar music

This is the big one

Well, congratulations! Look at you sitting back, soaking it in. Way to go, buddy. What we want every time is the top 10. We got a 7th. We got a 1st and 4th. We got a 4th in brisket. Did I miss the celebratory shots? No. - Thank you. One, two, three.

Kyle

Here's to some wins! Here's to the Death's Door BBQ Competition! Great job of emceeing it. - Fine job. Thanks for coming to the island, gentlemen. We love your show.

upbeat jazz

Kyle

And it may be Wisconsin Barbecue, but it is Kentucky whiskey.

laughter

Kyle

Cheers. Whoo! - Ahhhhhh... I don't know why we don't do that more often. Nothing like bourbon and barbecuing.

snoring

snoring continues

Kyle

Wisconsin Foodie would like to thank

the following underwriters for their support

Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board representing the dairy farm families of Wisconsin, who fostered a proud history with generations of family-owned dairy farms working to sustain the state's economy through job growth and providing acclaimed cheeses and other dairy products. Every product tells a story and every story starts with a seed. Your story, your product, your company all started with an idea. Illing Company ensures you have the right packaging to help you proudly take your harvest to market. Illing Company is dedicated to packaging your vision. American Kitchen Cookware is proud to support Wisconsin Foodie and helping food lovers everywhere embrace their own culinary adventure. With cookware manufactured right here in Wisconsin, we're working every day to make people's lives better in and out of the kitchen. Employee-owned New Glarus Brewing Company has been brewing and bottling beer for their friends, only in Wisconsin, since 1993. Just a short drive from Madison, come visit Swissconsin and see where your beer's made. Milwaukee's landmark art deco hotel offers luxury accommodations, legendary hospitality, and world-class dining. Award-winning chef Jason Gorman's contemporary take on cuisine, paired with the hotel's "Roaring '20s" vibe, makes the Ambassador a must-experience destination. Society Insurance, small details, big difference. The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources. The Central Wisconsin Craft Collective. Something Special from Wisconsin Rushing Waters Fisheries. FaB Wisconsin. Edible Milwaukee magazine. Also, with support of the Friends of Wisconsin Public Television. For more information about upcoming Wisconsin Foodie special events, dinners, and tours, please go to Wisconsin Foodie dot com. There you can sign up for our mailing list to be the first to know about our events and offerings. Also, get connected with us through Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.