Cook's Country

-"Cook's Country" is about more than just getting dinner on the table.

We're also fascinated by the people and stories behind the dishes.

We go inside kitchens in every corner of the country to learn how real people cook.

And we look back through time to see how history influences the way we eat today.

We bring that inspiration back to our test kitchen so we can share it with you.

This is "Cook's Country."

Today on "Cook's Country," Ashley makes Jitto's-style steak bombs.

I talk about regional sandwich names.

Jack explores the world of squash.

And Bryan visits a Boston sandwich shop and shares his version of their eggplant spuckie.

That's alright here on "Cook's Country."

-Funding for this program has been provided by the following.

-Monument Grills, offering innovative technology and design for the grilling enthusiast, with a lineup of gas grills designed with durability in mind, including the Eminence 605 with LED touch panels and side and rear infrared burners.

Learn more at MonumentGrills.com.

-Teakhaus -- inspired by a passion for cooking and respect for our planet, each board is handcrafted from sustainably sourced wood designed for every step, from food prep to presentation.

Teakhaus.

-Philly's got their cheesesteaks, and Chicago's famous for their Italian beef sandwiches.

Out in L.A., you've got the famous French dip.

But here in New England -- well, we like a good steak bomb.

And da bomb, Ashley, is here.

Sorry.

She's gonna show us how to make this great sandwich.

-I am.

So, if you're from New England, chances are you have had a steak bomb and you know just how good they are.

-Mm-hmm.

-But the one that we love the most is a place up in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

And it's a super steak shop.

It's called Jitto's Super Steak.

And they have the most amazing steak bombs.

Super-tender meat.

The vegetables, the onions, the mushrooms, and the peppers are super, super well-seasoned and cooked to perfection.

-Alright.

Sold.

-Yeah.

So let me show you our version of how to make that.

-Okay.

-So, we're gonna start with some vegetable preparation.

We've got our usual suspects -- red bell pepper, some white mushrooms, and an onion.

-Peppers, onions, mushrooms.

-Mm-hmm.

-Got to have it.

-Got to have it.

So, I'm just gonna use the striations of the onion and kind of guide me across the onion.

Just 1/4-inch-thick slices.

Alright.

Now, for this red bell pepper, I'm just going to stem, seed, and then slice this pretty thinly, as well.

About 1/4-inch thick, as well.

-Okay.

-Alright.

Now, for the mushrooms, I've got 4 ounces here, just plain white button mushrooms.

I'm just going to stem them... and then halve them and slice them thin.

-Okay.

-Alright.

So, I'm putting these in the same bowl 'cause the mushrooms and the peppers are gonna go into the skillet at the same time.

-Okay.

-Now, let's get to the bomb part of our steak bomb.

-Okay.

-Genoa salami.

-Genoa salami in a steak bomb?

-Mm-hmm.

Yep.

So, just 1 1/2 ounces of the thinly sliced salami.

Just find it at the deli at your grocery store.

-Great.

-And that is done.

Now let's get to the steak of our steak bomb.

I've got 1 pound of sirloin steak tips, also sold as flap meat as you see in the grocery store.

This is actually really well-trimmed, but if it did have any kind of connective tissue or extra fat on there, you would go ahead and trim it right now.

I'm going to cut this into 3/4-inch pieces.

Alright.

So, I'm gonna wash my hands.

Time to cook the vegetable portion of our steak bombs.

I've got 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in this 12-inch, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.

As you can see, there are some beautiful ripples.

We are up to a shimmer.

So I'm gonna add our onions.

[ Sizzling ] And I'm gonna cook these for about four minutes until the onions are beginning to brown.

-Okay.

-Alright.

Four minutes has passed.

And you can see the onions are beginning to brown.

So now I'm going to add the rest of the vegetables to the skillet.

And I'm gonna let that go for about six minutes.

But I need to season the vegetables at this stage, so 1 teaspoon of one of my favorite seasoning weapons here, of the Lawry's seasoning salt.

Now, they use this up at Jitto's, and it's just one way that kind of makes their steak bomb extra-special, because of the seasoning out of this jar.

So, six minutes here, and then we're gonna come back and get to the beef.

-Okay.

-Picture a sandwich piled high with meat on a long roll.

Now, what do you call it?

The answer probably depends on where you grew up.

If you call it a hero, you're likely from New York.

A grinder, you could be from Connecticut.

And a po'boy -- that's New Orleans for sure.

The origins for these varying Italian sandwich names are murky.

But what we do know is that the sandwich vernacular is region-specific and not all of these sandwich names are interchangeable.

Take for instance a hoagie.

It could describe any Italian sandwich.

But a zeppelin is made with just one meat, tomato and onion slices, and never any lettuce.

Here at Cook's Country, we are enamored by a New England Italian sandwich, the steak bomb.

-You can see the vegetables are really beautifully softened.

-They're gorgeous.

-Gorgeous.

-I'm just gonna transfer them to this bowl here, 'cause they are good and cooked.

Now let's move on to the sub rolls.

-Alright.

-Here I have four sub rolls that are split and still together on one side.

Now, these are Piantedosi Bakery rolls.

They come from a bakery in Malden, Massachusetts.

And this is the type of roll that Jitto's uses.

What's important is they use them because they're sturdy on the exterior, but, then, they're really nice and soft on the interior.

-Gorgeous.

So if you can't get this specific brand... -Mm-hmm.

-...soft on the inside, sturdy on the outside.

-Exactly.

-Okay.

-Now I've got 6 tablespoons of mayonnaise that I'm gonna spread on the interior of each roll.

So I'm gonna do about 1 1/2 tablespoons per.

-Okay.

-So, I have an oven that's been preheated to 400 degrees, with the oven rack set at the middle position.

And I'm just gonna cook these for about five minutes until they're turning golden-brown.

Now it's time to move on to our steak.

I'm gonna heat up vegetable oil -- I've got 1 teaspoon -- until just smoking.

Now it's time to add the steak.

[ Sizzling ] Alright.

I just put it in a single layer, but I'm not gonna touch it after that point, because we want to get a good amount of browning on the meat.

And we want to cook it for about five minutes to medium.

And, also, I'm going to add a little bit more of the Lawry's -- 1 more teaspoon.

Sprinkle right over.

And finally, the salami.

I'm just gonna sprinkle that overtop.

Alright.

Five minutes, not stirring at all.

And we're gonna want the meat to be medium, because we want it to be super tender on the interior.

But cooked through, looking for that crisp bottom.

-Okay, great.

-The steak is nice and cooked.

Now, just off the heat, I'm gonna add our vegetables.

And just stir everything together.

Alright.

So, now I'm going to fill the sub rolls evenly with our steak and vegetable mixture.

-And you are generous with your filling here.

This is how they do it at Jitto's?

-It sure is.

-So, I've got eight slices of deli American cheese, and I'm going to just put two pieces overtop.

Alright.

Now I'm going to put this back in the 400-degree oven for just one minute until the cheese is melted.

-Ooh!

Ooh!

-Shh!

-Wow.

-Oh, my goodness.

Oh!

Ma'am, I'm here from the bomb squad.

[ Laughs ] -I'm picking this one.

-Ohh!

-Oh, yeah.

Ooh!

I really have goose bumps.

I'm not even joking right now.

-Look at that.

Cheese melted.

-I know.

-Vegetables peeking out there.

This is what I like to call good eating.

-Mm-hmm.

-Real good eating.

-Mm-hmm.

Only one way to find out just how good this is.

-I agree.

-[ Chuckles ] -Mmm.

Mmm!

Mm.

That is right.

-Happy dance.

That is so good.

-Wow.

Mmm!

-That meat is so tender in there.

-Mm-hmm.

-It's the salami.

-Mm-hmm.

-It's a little tangy.

That and the mayonnaise together -- -Yeah.

-Those two add so much flavor in here.

Of course that seasoned salt gives a very specific -- It tastes like no other hoagie or sub or grinder or anything else that I've ever had.

-Right.

-And the American cheese.

-Mmm!

-It's doing its thing.

-This might be the best sandwich I've ever had.

And I don't have to drive to New Hampshire for it.

-No.

-Yeah.

-Just hanging with you.

-Yes.

-Thanks so much, Ashley.

-You're welcome.

-Well, if you want to make this incredible sandwich, it starts by seasoning and sauting onions, peppers, and mushrooms until tender.

Separately, brown steak tips with salami.

Assemble on toasted buns topped with cheese and bake until melted.

So from "Cook's Country," Jitto's-style steak bombs.

Take two.

They're small.

-Mmm!

-The only thing I like about winter -- it's squash.

And I'm going to teach you which varieties go in which recipes, which varieties can be substituted for each other, and I'm going to tell you about my favorites.

But before we get there, I need to talk about the thing that's not on the table -- those packages of already peeled, prepped squash.

Big mistake if you just want to roast the squash.

They're really dry, they don't have a lot of flavor, and if you just toss it with olive oil and put it in a hot oven, it's gonna be really unpalatable.

It's acceptable -- not great, but acceptable -- if you want to put it in a soup or stew.

That liquid's gonna rehydrate the squash.

Also, the more flavorful ingredients, the better.

But let's talk about the whole squash here on the table.

I'm going to start with acorn.

This is a little watery, and it's a little stringy, so I don't think it's a great choice for cutting into wedges and roasting.

I think it's better cut in half and stuff it with something flavorful, maybe like sausage.

But that means you need to cut it in half, and I know a lot of you struggle with this.

So here's what you need to do.

Get a towel.

You want to put the squash right on the towel.

It's gonna steady it a little bit so it's not rolling around.

And we're gonna use a mallet to help get the knife through.

Because if you're just trying to do this with your knife, you know what's gonna happen.

That knife is gonna slip, and you run the risk of cutting yourself.

And by using it this way, and, then, you just keep on going, you're gonna make sure that your hand is away from that blade and it's not gonna slip.

Next, we have probably the most popular, butternut.

It's wonderful roasted.

This is the thing to cut into large chunks and toss with olive oil and put in a hot oven.

Next, we have this little honeynut.

Very similar flavor.

It's a little sweeter and earthier.

It's a little easier to prep, because you'll see here in the butternut there's a lot of light-colored material.

You got to peel all that away to get down to the orange, so you're gonna need to peel four or five times.

The honeynut squash has a thinner skin, so you end up with less waste.

My favorite -- I told you I had a favorite -- it's the delicata, 'cause you don't need to peel it.

You just need to cut it in half.

Scoop out the seeds, cut it into half moons, toss it with olive oil, and roast it.

I love it on a sheet pan with Brussels sprouts, 'cause you get the sweet and a little bit of the bitterness.

My favorite winter vegetable combo.

This here is the Buttercup.

It's a little dry.

It's okay for roasting or for braising.

But I think the next squash, the kabocha, is a better choice here.

I prefer the red variety of this.

There's also a green variety, but the red is a little sweeter.

This is wonderful in a braise.

Blue Hubbard -- biggest squash on the table.

This is often sold in chunks because it's so big.

What are you gonna do with all of it?

This is the choice for let's say you're making a stew where you want lovely chunks of squash.

They're gonna soak up that broth.

The blue Hubbard is wonderful for that.

And last up, spaghetti squash.

Now, I didn't have the best introduction.

My mother treated it like pasta and smothered it with spaghetti sauce.

Don't do that.

It's a vegetable.

It's not pasta.

They're very delicate, and as you can see here, they're pretty thin.

So toss it with a vinaigrette -- maybe something punchy, like a lemony vinaigrette -- and add flavorful ingredients -- herbs, nuts, cheeses.

But don't smother it with tomato sauce.

So, the wonderful world of winter squash -- there's a squash for every recipe.

-From Philly's iconic roast-pork sandwich to New Mexico's beloved green-chili cheeseburger, every region of this great nation takes pride in its signature sandwiches.

And I've had the pleasure to try many.

Here in Massachusetts, a classic sandwich is making a comeback in Brookline Village.

Located right outside of Boston, Brookline offers small-town charm just outside the city, with a local cinema, quaint side streets, and of course local mom-and-pop shops.

Cutty's is one of those family-run joints that sells some of the best sandwiches in town.

Owners Charles and Rachel Kelsey are down-to-earth folks who just love a good sandwich.

They also happen to be two of my oldest friends.

We all worked together as recipe developers at "America's Test Kitchen," where the two met and fell in love with each other and with sandwiches.

-People completely underestimate, like, the art of the sandwich.

There's so much thought that goes into it, and so those layers do matter.

-This artistry is on full display across the Cutty's menu.

But I'm here for one sandwich in particular -- their version of the New England spuckie.

But first, I had to ask.

Can you tell me exactly what a spuckie is?

-So, a spuckie is like an old Boston term for a sub.

Apparently, it comes from the word "spuccadella," which is the name of the roll that they make, these, like, torpedo-shaped rolls.

-I think our older customers know, and they get excited to come in, see it on the menu, and it reminds them of their childhood.

A lot of people don't know what a spuckie is, and we've had a whole bunch of mispronunciations of the word -- spuckle.

-Spuncle.

-Sporky, sphunky.

People say all different things.

-Yeah.

Should consider changing the name to spuncle.

[ Both laugh ] -I like it.

-You know what they say -- spuncle sells.

-[ Laughs ] -Traditional versions of the sandwich feature deli meats, cheese, vegetables, and dressing piled high on a long roll.

But Charles and Rachel put their own spin on it and subbed out the deli meats for roasted eggplant.

I followed Charles back into the kitchen to see how their version comes together.

Charles and Rachel put a lot of thought and care into their ingredients, and they often source them from local farms and purveyors.

-Alright.

And what about the olive oil?

What kind do you use here?

-Okay.

So this is from a family from the North Shore of Massachusetts.

It's a Turkish family, and they have orchards in Turkey, and they make olive oil.

-Wow.

The star of this sandwich is the eggplant, which they slice thinly and coat with that special olive oil.

Obviously, the oil is gonna help flavor the eggplant.

But, also, help with the browning?

-Yeah.

So you do want to put enough on there so that it doesn't dry out.

You don't want to put so much on that it's greasy.

But that's perfect.

-Okay.

-Just to two or three swipes with the oil and you're good.

Now a little bit of salt.

Again, I'm not putting, like, a ton on, and I'm not gonna put any on the other side.

-Once the eggplant is coated and salted, it roasts and rests.

Then, it's time for assembly.

We start with the bread, which comes from a local bakery that Charles and Rachel have been using for years.

The bread is washed in that same bright, grassy olive oil so you get a nice hit of it with every bite.

I love that.

There's nothing better than just olive oil-saturated bread.

-Yeah.

It's really the little things.

-With the bread properly seasoned, we add a punchy carrot salad.

-It's a play on a muffuletta salad, the large-format sandwich from New Orleans.

-Right.

-It's got shredded carrot, roasted red peppers, olives, a little Garlic, some secret spices that I can't mention here.

-Charles then shingles the eggplant in a single layer before adding some fresh mozzarella.

-This is awesome mozzarella.

Comes from a company in Connecticut.

Been making mozzarella and ricotta for I think like 100 years.

-I love how much attention to detail you give to each element of the sandwich here, from the bread, the salad, the mozzarella, the eggplant.

-We really want to make people's day.

I mean, for not a ton of money, you can make somebody's day, like, so much more amazing by having them bite into a sandwich like this.

-Yeah.

-Let's go give it a taste.

-Alright.

[ Mid-tempo music plays ] I just love every element of the sandwich is absolutely pitch-perfect.

The crunch and the sweetness from the carrots, but mild smokiness from the roasted peppers, the brightness of the olives, the hit of garlic.

It's really just fantastic.

And even, like, with the eggplant cooked like this, you don't miss meat at all in this sandwich.

-Yeah.

No.

This eggplant spuckie, hands down one of my favorite sandwiches of all time.

Thank you for taking the time to show me how to make it.

-Got it.

-Charles and Rachel don't take life too seriously, except for when it comes to sandwiches.

Their approach to food is infused with a playful curiosity and genuine thoughtfulness behind each ingredient, and their care and attention to detail is apparent in every bite.

-It has been so awesome to watch Rachel and Charles build that business from scratch.

And I have such fond memories of all of us cooking and developing recipes in the kitchen.

-I know.

All of you helped me get my feet wet when I started developing recipes here at the kitchen.

-I remember.

-Yeah.

I was just a wee lad.

-[ Laughs ] -So, I love their sandwich shop.

I love everything on the menu.

But for me perhaps, one of the greatest accomplishments they've made is this eggplant sandwich they have.

Alright.

So let's get started.

We're going to slice up 1 1/2 pounds of eggplant into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

So, like you saw at Cutty's, they use a machine to cut the eggplant super thin.

But at home, I think it's a little bit easier to cut the eggplant thicker, in about 1/2-inch-thick slices, which come across nice and meaty in the sandwich.

So 1/2-inch slices.

-Mm-hmm.

-Alright.

So, we have those sliced.

We're gonna throw these onto a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil and sprayed with a little bit of nonstick cooking spray.

And we'll just lay these on there.

Okay.

So, we have the eggplant laid out here.

And we're gonna brush the eggplant on both sides with a couple tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

And this is just to help with the browning in the oven.

And eggplant and olive oil are really super close friends.

Alright.

So we have eggplant brushed with olive oil along the first side.

We have about 3/4 teaspoon of salt here.

Just table salt.

We'll sprinkle this.

And we'll do the same on the second side.

You just really need to encourage the browning with this.

Alright.

And the remainder of the 3/4 teaspoon of table salt goes on top.

Okay.

So that's seasoned on the second side.

And now we're gonna throw the eggplant under the broiler.

So, we have the oven rack adjusted to six inches from the broiler element.

The broiler's set to high.

And we're gonna let it go for a good 14 minutes or so.

-Oh, wow.

-I'm gonna flip it about halfway through.

What we're looking for is nicely browned eggplant that's really nice and tender and cooked through.

-Okay.

-Okay.

So, while the eggplant is broiling, we're going to work on the olive salad, which -- -Oh!

This is the best part of the sandwich.

-It absolutely is.

I love this salad.

So, at the restaurant, they use green olives.

We're going to use Kalamata olives.

-Mm-hmm.

-We just happen to like the pungency that they offer.

So we got 3/4 cup of Kalamata olives.

-Mm-hmm.

-These are pitted.

And this is about 1/2 cup of roasted red bell peppers we've just kind of coarsely chopped.

1/2 cup of parsley leaves.

A teaspoon of red wine vinegar.

One garlic clove.

1/4 teaspoon of red pepper flakes.

And you have 1/4 teaspoon of table salt in that.

And we're just gonna pulse this until it's nicely, coarsely chopped.

And that takes about 10 to 12 pulses.

About like that, I think.

Okay?

-Nice.

-It's all chopped up, but you can still identify the pieces.

-Mm-hmm.

-We're gonna add that to our bowl here.

So, now we have a cup of shredded carrots.

We've shredded these on the large holes of a box grater.

-Mm-hmm.

-It's about two carrots.

And, then, to that, we're going to add 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

-Mmm!

-Alright.

It has been 14 minutes.

We've flipped the eggplant once.

-Those look good, Bryan.

-This is exactly what we want -- nicely browned, fully tender.

Alright.

So we'll take these off of our tray here.

And we're gonna recycle our tray to toast our bread.

So, these are the rolls that they use at Cutty's.

These are ciabatta sandwich rolls.

-Mm-hmm.

-Perhaps my favorite sandwich roll ever.

-So good.

-So, we're just gonna split these in half lengthwise.

-If you didn't have it, you could obviously just buy a bigger ciabatta loaf.

-Exactly.

Yeah, you totally could.

Or, you know, just whatever sub roll you like to use.

This recipe makes enough for four sandwiches, but I'm just gonna make the two for us.

So, I'm gonna brush this bread with 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

So we're just gonna throw this bread underneath the broiler for about two to five minutes until it's nicely toasted.

And you have to pay attention, 'cause it goes from zero to 60 in no time at all.

-Alright.

-Alright.

And that bread is perfect.

-Mmm!

-Nicely toasted.

So, with that, we're going to add fresh mozzarella, as if the sandwich couldn't get any better.

-I know.

Right?

-So, we're gonna use about three slices, about 1/4-inch thick or so, per sandwich.

We're gonna add about 6 tablespoons or so per sandwich.

We're gonna divide it evenly between the two slices of bread.

Then we're going to layer on about three pieces of mozzarella per sandwich, nicely shingled.

-Mm-hmm!

-And, then, about three pieces of eggplant per sandwich, as well.

Now we just have to cap our sandwiches.

-Hmm!

[ Laughs ] -Give it a light press right across the middle.

-Oh!

-It's so good, isn't it?

-Yeah.

-Mmm, mmm, mmm, mmm!

-Mmm!

-Alright.

Well, cheers.

-Yeah.

Cheers.

[ Crunches ] -Mmm.

-Mmm.

It's just like I remember.

-Mm-hmm.

-Mm-hmm.

The flavor of the relish -- there's so much going on.

The sweetness of the carrots and that little bit of crunch.

-Mm-hmm.

-And, then, that creamy eggplant and, then, the smooth, mild mozzarella and the crunchy bread -- -You're making me hungry.

Geez.

-[ Laughs ] Mmm!

Man, is that good!

-You know what?

That garlic -- One clove.

-What?

-It just comes through.

-It comes right through.

This is a great version.

Thank you.

-You're welcome.

-Do you want to make this awesome vegetarian sandwich?

Broil 1 1/2 pounds of eggplant.

Use the food processor to make an olive and carrot relish.

And layer it all onto a toasted ciabatta roll with fresh mozzarella.

From "Cook's Country," with special thanks to Rachel and Charles, a Cutty's-inspired eggplant spuckie.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product reviews and select episodes at our website, CooksCountry.com/tv.

I'm so excited to know how to make this.

-It's a great sandwich with a great story, right?

-Mm-hmm.

-Let us help with dinner tonight.

Visit our website anytime for the newest season's rigorously tested recipes, full episodes, ingredient advice, and equipment reviews.

CooksCountry.com/tv.

-The Complete Cook's Country TV Show Cookbook brings together every recipe, tasting, and test from 18 seasons of the beloved TV show, with trusted equipment recommendations and insights from the entire cast.

This book is your guide to the very best in regional cooking.

The cost is $24.99 -- $15 off the cover price of $40.

To order, head to our online shop at CooksCountry.com/book.

-Funding for this program has been provided by the following.

-Monument Grills, offering innovative technology and design for the grilling enthusiast, with a lineup of gas grills designed with durability in mind, including the Eminence 605 with LED touch panels and side and rear infrared burners.

Learn more at MonumentGrills.com.

-Teakhaus -- inspired by a passion for cooking and respect for our planet, each board is handcrafted from sustainably sourced wood designed for every step, from food prep to presentation.

Teakhaus.

[ Mid-tempo music plays ]