Sewing With Nancy

Simple, structural, and multifunctional-- that's how my guest describes the fiber art projects she makes using cotton rope, a zigzag stitch, plus a large dose of creativity. Please welcome Lindsey Zinno, who is a full-time college student in environmental and biological sciences, business owner, and a designer. That's a great rsum, Lindsey. -

laughs

Thank you so much, Nancy. Well, it's great to be back, and we're gonna be using the techniques that I taught in the first episode and take that to the next step, making bags and handle making and even a little leatherwork. The Bucket Tote makes an impressive statement, made with 120' of rope and all-purpose thread. I'll show you my tips and techniques to shaping and handle making. It's a perfect project to begin bag-making with cotton rope. "Rope Sewing Reinvented," that's what's next on Sewing With Nancy.

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For the love of sewing. Madeira, specializing in embroidery, quilting, and special effect threads, because creativity is never black and white. Koala Studios, fine sewing furniture custom-built in America. Clover, making a difference in sewing, quilting, crafting, and needle arts for over 90 years. Fuller Brush Vacuums, dedicated to keeping homes clean. Amazing Designs and Klass Needles. During the first episode of "Rope Sewing Reinvented," I showed the very first rope basket I made many decades ago-- and you can kind of tell from the colors what vintage that is-- with this clothesline rope, wrapped with 1" strips of fabric and stitched. We call this "reinvented" because Lindsey has given this type of sewing a really fresh, contemporary look. No fabric, just the clothesline rope. Fabric is eliminated. We have lots of thread stitching, cute little dots; they're confetti stitches. And you'll need to use a topstitching needle because you're going through thick rope. Or soft thick rope, but... And, also, clips work very well, or large head pins, for marking the rope. 120' of rope, so you might need a couple of packages if you're working with the clothesline in packages. And then you're gonna do some marking on it before you do sewing. Find 3", turn under, and clip. And then place another clip at 20" and another-- third clip at 100-- no, excuse me, let me say that one again. Turn under 3", place a clip at 20'-- not inches, 20'-- and another one at 100'. And then we're gonna do some stitching, and if you missed the first program, go to NancyZieman.com and watch online, but regardless, Lindsey, you're gonna give a review of the setup of the stitches. Thank you, Nancy. Yes, we're gonna start out-- there's two different stitches you're gonna be using

for the entire bag

a satin stitch and normal zigzag stitch. So we're gonna start the bag by using a satin stitch, so you want to keep your width at-- I'm using 5.5 millimeters, but do the most that your sewing machine can do or what works best with your rope. My stitch length is at 0.9. So very short. Mm-hmm. I'm starting at 1" below that fold, and I'm gonna make that satin stitch, going back and forth a few times. Increasing that stitch length to 1.4, and then sew down to the raw edge. And then lock off that stitch again with another satin stitch. And you started stitching away from the loop. Yes, yes, like I said, 1" below, and then... 1" below that fold or that loop, and then you're gonna turn it around and go the other way. It's just a little bit easier to start in a straight, put-together way rather than sewing straight on that tough-to-squeeze loop.

machine beeping

for the entire bag

I like to use a stylus or scissors, the edge of scissors, to hold it together. You really have to squeeze those together to make sure they're straight, or that will mess up your shape of the base.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

So cut your thread, and then we're gonna start coiling. So I just folded that rope against the initial part we sewed, and then you're gonna do another satin stitch, a small one.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

And then increase that stitch length again to that comfortable zigzag stitch, and you're gonna sew the rest of the base until you reach that 20' mark. So you're straddling? Yes, you are gonna be strad-- the reason why we're using a zigzag stitch is to straddle and mend the two pieces of rope together, so you want to make sure that foot of the machine is in between-- that middle groove is in between both of those rope pieces you're mending together. It takes a little bit of time to get to the 20' mark, and Lindsey's next sample has been sewn to that point. And you just keep on keeping on till you get there, and I'll show you on her finished Bucket Tote that the underside of it has some stability, and this is needed to use it as a tote, and that's what you're going to show now. Correct. So to make that sturdy base, you want to go over that middle area to make sure it's very strong, and I increase the width and then make that length decreased-- that thick satin stitch. And you're gonna just go straight down, going a little bit further than the first length that you sewed, getting over where those folds were, really stabilizing those first weak folds.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

And going in reverse, making it nice and thick-- clean lines. You're gonna be putting stuff in there. It's got to hold it.

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for the entire bag

And then cut it, and then you're gonna do three lines. One I like to do right here and then one on this edge and then one down the middle to make that middle of the bag very sturdy.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

It's a commonsense approach to constructing something, but yet her stitching, even though it's functional, it has a decorative look. When you see... It's pretty. It looks lovely. - Yeah. The stitching is functional, but I changed the colors-- make it a nice contrast and really bring the color in. I also like to dye the rope, which is also an option because cotton is very easy to dye. Yes. But the thread itself does the trick to make a color that you want. Very nice. And there's just one more, and you can see the speed of which Lindsey is sewing, and, really, these are fast projects. Once you get comfortable and understand the way the rope sewing takes place, you can really whip these out.

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machine whirring

for the entire bag

So we'll take a look at the bottom of this bucket bag as another option for the finishing techniques, and after you've secured the base, then it's time for Lindsey to show us how to do the shaping. So now we're gonna start doing the shaping of the tote. Mm-hmm. You're gonna decrease your stitch length to that satin stitch and secure that thread.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

We were sewing flat when we were doing that base, and now we're gonna tilt it against the machine to start to build the walls. Increase your stitch length to the stitch that you were comfortable with for that zigzag. Sure. - Mine's 1.4. And make sure that your needle is straddling both of those pieces, mending them together, and just keep feeding that new rope into place, building those walls of that tote bag.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

And keep in mind that Lindsey has the rope coming off to the right, a clockwise motion that makes... Yes. - We didn't mention that. That really makes it much more convenient. And in no time, it starts to get some shape. But you're gonna stitch a long time to the 100' mark, so we have a sample that has been shaped. You can just kind of see how that's getting that shape now just by that angling and being consistent. And I think now, to do the handles, we're going to-- you can mark to almost the 100'. Is that correct? - Correct, yes. You want to make sure that you end not at the edge-- closest to the 100' or your desired height-- then to the middle. So I measured it out and marked the middles, and then I put-- placed pins in the middles and then measured 2" this way and 2" that way and placed two pins. I secured that with a satin stitch initially, and now I'm gonna secure the next handle after measuring 27" of my desired strap length. So you have an-- you can have a small strap, a large strap, or-- Yeah, it could be a handbag or an over-the-shoulder tote. I like mine to be a little bit more universal. Now, this is interesting, the way Lindsey is working with the barrel, the bucket of this tote, how you have to wrap it around the head of your machine. Yes.

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for the entire bag

So now I'm gonna do that satin stitch to secure that other strap, making sure I'm not sewing on top of that needle that I used to mark my measurement. Oh, the pin, mm-hmm. And then increase your stitch length and then meet to the next pin that you marked.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

This is very structural. You're making shape by the consistent form and shape of the bag or the tote that you're making, and I find it fascinating. So now I'm reaching that pin, decreasing that stitch length again to that satin stitch, securing it...

machine whirring

for the entire bag

Cutting the thread, and then you're gonna measure out 27" again and attach. Great to have a tape measure handy to make that quick measurement. Exactly. Or you can use some pins. So I'm reaching 27". Going to pin that back into place where that pin was once just marking where it should be. And then I'm gonna do that satin stitch one more time to secure that final strap. That satin stitch, obviously, is a security stitch, back and forth, but it also is decorative-- little dots, little confetti. It has-- adds some nice character to your bag. Make sure that all of your pins are removed to go around one more time, make those straps a little bit thicker, little bit more sturdy. -

chuckles

for the entire bag

Don't forget, you may need to change the needle during the process. You have 120' of rope in this project, and if it's skipping stitches, you know that's the time to put in a new topstitching needle. Now, as you reach the handle, you have some... You just continue to go around the handle. Yes, and you want to just make sure that-- you don't even need to hold on to the basket at this point-- or the tote. You're just holding on to those straps, making sure that needle is straddling both pieces of rope to mend them together with that zigzag stitch.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

So as Lindsey is continuing to sew, I'm just gonna show you how the-- on this finished sample, how the... finished bag looks. You can see, on this bag, or tote, that both handles are double, and then she stopped stitching at the halfway point at the end. In the first program, we showed how to tuck the rope down into the middle of the bag. Reset it to a satin stitch and then trim off the excess rope. And it's just very-- a logical place to stop, at the ends or the sides, and in about, hmm, maybe two hours of stitching, you have this bag complete without cutting things out, except 120' of clothesline or rope and then some decorative stitches, just straight stitches. So the Bucket Tote-- made with a little creativity, a lot of thread, and clothesline. Continuing with the organic theme, Lindsey's next bag features leather straps and a slightly oval silhouette. Change the size of the base and learn how to easily add leather straps, and you, too, will have an Everyday Bag. Creativity is quite exciting. Here is this bag, and it really almost lies flat but yet has this great shape, has some of the same shaping that Lindsey added to the Bucket Tote, but notice the very attractive, distinctive handles or straps that she has added here. I think the part that I'm learning from you, Lindsey, is that different sizes and amounts really change the shape. Exactly, so that bag is... rather longer than the Bucket Tote that we made in the first part of the segment, and so it makes it a little bit flatter, a little bit skinnier, not as basket-bucket-y as the first one that we made. So it really just depends on how long you're starting and how wide you go to make your base. Exactly, and we had a 3" base the last time. This is going to be a 6" base, so it's folded at 6". 80' of clothesline or cotton rope is used, and then a clip, one clip, at 10'. So 6 and 10 are the two clip points. Just as a quick review, this is what Lindsey stitched the last time, only in 3"; this is 6. She would start sewing an inch from the fold with a satin stitch and then lengthen that stitch down, secure it, then re-- invert it so that you can sew to the points, to the fold, and then con-- begin the coiling process. You have a nice-- you have nice, parallel edges so that, as you coil around, you really get a very even look. And notice, the little security stitches also add the accents. Lindsey has a sample where she's reached the 10' mark, and you're gonna give some additional tips on shaping. Yes, so now I have those same three lines and that thick base, making that strong base for your tote. We're gonna start securing that base to begin our shaping with another satin stitch, just a quick one.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

Back and forth just a few times, and then increase that stitch length to 1.4, 1.6, whatever your sewing machine does, and then tilt that machine-- tilt that base until you really can't anymore, and begin sewing.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

Making sure that stitch is straddling both of those pieces together.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

And as I'm watching Lindsey, her hand, her left hand is just holding the fabric even though she's turning it at that same angle.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

So it's not like working with fabric. I really admire your ability to do that. It really reminds me of... ceramic molding, you know? It's all about the angles and everything that you're doing. So you're just gonna keep on keeping on, and we have-- until, perhaps, you run out of clothesline, and that sometimes happens because... Yeah. The packages are a certain length, and you may need to splice two ends together, so whether you're making the Bucket Tote or the Everyday Bag, this may occur. To splice both pieces together, you're going to place a pin after you push both pieces of rope together. You're going to utilize that satin stitch to bring both pieces of rope together. So it really looks like you didn't run out at all. Decrease that stitch length. And use a stylus to keep your fingers out of the way of that fast-moving needle.

machine whirring

for the entire bag

You really want to make sure that satin stitch is uniform and thick, and you can always go back and trim those extra edges. And then you just would keep on stitching until all 80' of rope have been sewn. And on this finished bag, just as we've done in the first program in the last tote, tucked under the finished edge at one side, did some satin stitching and then trimmed off the rope, but the great leather handles-- they're 5/8" wide, 28" to 30" long, and your sample has been measured for the center, where you're gonna do the positioning. Positioning the leather straps will be about 3" across. You're-- you want to cut your leather straps at about 28 to 30" long, depending on how long you want your straps. I like to place mine 2" into the-- into the tote

and then sew two lines

1/2" and then 1 1/2". You want to make sure that your rope-- your straps are centered. I like to follow along the baseline and just follow up, and then you reach your middle, but you can always double-check by being exact and measuring from one end to one end. And it works best if you can use the free arm on your sewing machine, so Lindsey's going to just move up the machine, and if you are able, I would suggest changing to a leather needle because you're sewing on leather. Set your machine for a straight stitch. And if you would like, change to brown thread. We're having... We're just gonna make-believe she's using brown thread because of timing, but then she's gonna stitch over the leather handles. Now, it takes a little time to do the stitching, but I will have her do some of the-- some of it and get it lined up, and you start beforehand and sew onto it. I like to use the middle-positioned straight stitch just so you can continue following that straight middle groove. You want to sew slowly over the leather. And then I just like to lock it off real quick and cut. And to wrap this up, you can see that she's reinforced the edges at the end, and that's how she attached the straps to her Everyday Bag. While attending the Quilt Expo in Madison, Wisconsin, I had the opportunity to interview internationally known quilt artists. Meet Laura Murray who creates intricate quilt designs by transferring a stamp design to fabric with Paintstiks. When many of us think about quilting, we think of piecing a block or appliquing a block, but how about using a Paintstik to create the design? Welcome, Laura... - Hello. To our Sewing With Nancy Nancy's Corner. And this is a great way of getting intricate designs, or you can play with color, play with fabric, and not work very hard. Well, I surely love it because it's also very fast. When I have seen these from a distance, sometimes I thought, "Oh, my goodness, "I'm gonna have to appliqu all these. I'm gonna have to stitch this." And it's not that at all. Nope, I'm basically laying pieces. I've drawn a grid. - Mm-hmm. And so I'm just laying these individual shapes, which-- here's one handy. I had done a Paintstik rubbing using my, uh... I actually call this set of stamps "Exotica." I put fabric on the top. I do a rubbing. Put fusible web on the back. - Sure. And cut them out, and now I am free to place these wherever I want to. So these are appliqus that were created, and we'll show you in a few minutes how they're created, but if you don't like the color or you don't like the placement, you could put it in a different area. Exactly, I didn't have to sew it together and then say, "Oh, drat, I wished I had put it somewhere else." And you don't always have to have the right color. You can use the oil pens or... - No. Well, really, what it is, it's about lights, mediums, and darks. All I really care about is contrast. Contrast. So we have some fabric now over your embossed area-- ready to emboss. And then you just... - I do the rubbings. It's very-- we all have done rubbings at some point in our life. Yes, yes, exactly. And I can-- I can make all kinds of different colors. I use solid fabrics. - Sure. No more running to the store desperately trying to find the thing you now know that you need. Sure, and then after you've rubbed them, then you just add the paper-backed fusible web. Yep, I use a temporary stick fusible, and what I mean by that is, once I peel this paper off... Which is sometimes the hardest trick. It sticks. It's not going to go sliding off. So if I discover that I don't have it lined up just right, or I want something different in that spot... Sure. I can just lift it up, move it over, and I always have that shape. It's not like sewing it together and not being so happy. And then after you have made the grid position, you like what you see, everything is stitched down with monofilament thread. Yep, I do the final fusing. I never do the final fusing until-- my approach is, I got to walk by it three times without wanting to move something. Three times-- good idea. And then I fuse it down, and I did run over all the edges with monofilament thread. That's basically part of the quilting. Sure. For something like this, there's not any elaborate quilting necessary. Now, there are some larger motifs that with-- in the embossing tool, that you can get; they nest together. Yes, this one has three different sizes. This is 1 1/4" or 1 3/4", 2 1/2", and 3 1/4". Now, this little one-- I mean, we can go much bigger here, but-- so you can see this-- how this little shape is made. If you look, this is a 3 1/2" square that I did separately. Sure. 'Cause you can see, right in the negative space, that was purple fabric. I had two of this shape, cut half-square triangles. They're dropped in the middle. I went looking for a contrasting shape, cut quarter-square triangles, tucked them in here, and then stuck another one in the middle, but, again, I can audition all of this... Sure. - Looking for contrast. Well, it's a great way-- a new way, for me, of using an appliqu, embellishing it, creating a Cathedral Window, which would be very time-consuming done in the normal way. Laura, thank you for sharing your ideas. You're so welcome, yes. Again, thanks to Laura Murray for explaining how she uses the technique of stamp rubbings to design patchwork. Also, a special thank-you to Lindsey Zinno for inspiring us with her reinvented rope sewing techniques. Lindsey's enthusiasm for sewing is really contagious. I hope that you'll join me at NancyZieman.com to watch previous programs of Sewing With Nancy online and also to sign up to follow my blog, Facebook, and other social media channels. Thanks for joining me. Bye for now.

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Fi nd the projects featured during this two-part series pl us bonus items created with cotton rope an d thread in the new book Rope Sewing Reinvented by Lindsey Zinno and Nancy. Order th e fully illustrated book with program DVD for $19.99 plus shipping and handling. To order, call 800-336-8373 or visit our website at sewingwithnancy.com/3113. Order item number BD3113. Credit card orders only. Visit Nancy's website at NancyZieman.com to see additional episodes, Nancy's blog, and more. Sewing With Nancy, TV's longest-airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman,

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Baby Lock, Madeira threads, Koala Studios, Clover, Fuller Brush Vacuums, Amazing Designs and Klass Needles. Closed captioning funding provided by Riley Blake Designs. Sewing With Nancy is a co-production of Nancy Zieman Productions and Wisconsin Public Television.