I'M RICK STEVES, AND WE'RE EXPLORING MORE OF
THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME WE'RE IN ITALY: AND IT'S ALL ABOUT LA DOLCE VITA.
IT'S THE SWEET LIFE IN TUSCANY.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
[ MUSIC PLAYS ]
WHEN TRAVEL DREAMS TAKE PEOPLE TO ITALY,
TUSCANY IS OFTEN THEIR FIRST STOP.
THERE'S SOMETHING CHARMING, ALMOST SEDUCTIVELY CHARMING
ABOUT THIS REGION AND ITS RUSTIC GOOD LIVING.
TUSCANY OFFERS A DOLCE VITA MIX
OF HEARTY CUISINE,
FASCINATING HISTORY,
AND GENTLE BEAUTY.
FIRST, WE'LL LEARN ABOUT THE ORIGINAL TUSCANS --
THE ANCIENT ETRUSCANS.
WE'LL TOUR A HILL TOWN THAT WAS IMPORTANT TO BOTH
THE ETRUSCANS AND THE ROMANS,
HEAD INTO THE WOODS FOR A TRUFFLE HUNT,
WE'LL EAT SLOW FOOD ITALIAN STYLE
DURING A SUNDAY LUNCH,
AND FINISH IN ANOTHER HILL TOWN
WHERE WE'LL GET PASSIONATE ABOUT THE LOCAL WINE.
ITALY IS THE SIZE OF CALIFORNIA
AND THE REGION OF TUSCANY GRABS THE CENTER.
BEFORE CHECKING OUT PIENZA: AND MONTEPULCIANO.
TUSCANY IS NAMED AFTER THE ETRUSCAN PEOPLE
WHO LIVED HERE CENTURIES: BEFORE THIS REGION WAS CONQUERED BY ANCIENT ROME.
OVER 2,500 YEARS AGO,
LONG BEFORE ANYBODY HAD HEARD OF JULIUS CAESAR,
AND BACK WHEN ROME WAS STILL JUST A SMALL TOWN,
THE ETRUSCAN CIVILIZATION: FLOURISHED IN THIS PART OF ITALY.
ETRUSCAN TOMBS ARE SCATTERED ALL OVER THE COUNTRYSIDE,
LOCATED BOTH ON GOOD MAPS AND ON SIGNPOSTS.
WE'RE DROPPING IN ON A FARM: TO VISIT THE TOMB OF THE HESCANAS FAMILY.
THIS TOMB, CUT OUT OF SOLID TUFA ROCK,
WAS DISCOVERED BY THE FARMER'S GRANDFATHER.
WHAT LITTLE WE KNOW ABOUT THE ETRUSCANS
WE'VE LEARNED MOSTLY: FROM THEIR FRESCO-COVERED TOMBS.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
THE FARMER TELLS ME THAT THIS TOMB
DATES BACK TO ABOUT 350 B.C.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
THE ENTIRE FAMILY WAS BURIED: IN SEVERAL SARCOPHAGI IN THIS TOMB.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
WE CAN READ THE FAMILY NAME,
SPELLED WHAT WE WOULD CALL BACKWARDS --
"HESCANAS."
THE FAINT BUT STILL READABLE FRESCOS
TAKE US BACK TO THE FUNERAL RITUAL.
SEOR HESCANAS RIDES THE CHARIOT
INTO THE AFTERLIFE.
IT'S A PRE-CHRISTIAN JUDGMENT DAY
AS A DIVINE MAGISTRATE DELIBERATES HIS CASE.
A HEAVENLY CHAMBER ORCHESTRA PROVIDES MUSIC
AS WOMEN IN FINE GOWNS AND JEWELRY DANCE.
THE MOTION AND REALISM: CAPTURED BY THE 4th CENTURY B.C.
ARTIST IS IMPRESSIVE.
LOOKING AT THIS EVIDENCE OF SUCH AN ADVANCED CIVILIZATION,
IT'S AMAZING THAT THESE EARLIEST TUSCANS
ARE STILL LARGELY A MYSTERY.
WITH THE RISE OF ROME, ETRUSCAN CIVILIZATION VANISHED,
STEAMROLLED AND ABSORBED INTO THAT MIGHTY EMPIRE.
NOW, WITH EACH TOMB EXCAVATED,
ARCHEOLOGISTS ARE PIECING TOGETHER
THE MYSTERIOUS PUZZLE OF ETRUSCAN CULTURE.
LIKE MANY POPULAR TUSCAN TOWNS,
VOLTERRA SITS ON AN ETRUSCAN FOUNDATION.
2,500 YEARS AGO, VOLTERRA WAS ONE OF
THE MOST IMPORTANT ETRUSCAN CITIES.
IT WAS A KEY TRADING CENTER: PROTECTED BY A FOUR-MILE LONG WALL.
ITS MIGHTY ETRUSCAN GATE,
BUILT OF MASSIVE TUFA STONES, SURVIVES.
THE THREE SERIOUSLY ERODED HEADS
DATE FROM THE 2nd CENTURY B.C.
AND SHOW WHAT CAN HAPPEN: WHEN YOU LEAVE SOMETHING OUTSIDE FOR 2,000 YEARS.
THE SMALLER STONES ARE PART OF THE MEDIEVAL CITY WALL
WHICH INCORPORATED PARTS: OF THE MUCH OLDER ETRUSCAN WALL.
UNLIKE OTHER FAMOUS TOWNS IN TUSCANY,
VOLTERRA FEELS NOT: CUTESY AND TOURISTIC, BUT REAL, VIBRANT,
AND ALMOST OBLIVIOUS TO THE ALLURE
OF THE TOURIST DOLLAR.
A REFRESHING BREAK FROM ITS MORE COMMERCIAL NEIGHBORS,
IT'S MY FAVORITE SMALL TOWN IN TUSCANY.
VOLTERRA'S ETRUSCAN MUSEUM IS FILLED TOP TO BOTTOM
WITH PRECIOUS ARTIFACTS FROM CENTURIES BEFORE CHRIST.
THE ARTIFACTS WERE MOSTLY: EXCAVATED FROM TOMBS.
YOU'LL SEE ETCHED MIRRORS,
STYLIZED BRONZE BUCKLES,
INTRICATELY DECORATED POT HANDLES,
AND EXQUISITELY CRAFTED JEWELRY.
THE EXHIBIT HELPS US APPRECIATE THE SOPHISTICATION
OF THIS PRE-ROMAN SOCIETY.
THE FORTE OF THIS MUSEUM: IS ITS MANY FINELY CARVED FUNERARY URNS --
STONE BOXES CONTAINING ASHES OF THE DEAD.
THEY SUGGEST THE ETRUSCANS WERE INFLUENCED
BY THEIR ANCIENT GREEK CONTEMPORARIES.
BUT WHILE GREEK ARTISTS FOCUSED ON THE IDEALIZED HUMAN FORM,
THE ETRUSCANS REPRESENTED PEOPLE AS UNIQUE INDIVIDUALS --
PORTRAYED REALISTICALLY,
WITH WRINKLES, CROOKED NOSES,
AND FUNNY HAIRCUTS.
THE MUSEUM'S EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF URNS --
WITH SUBJECTS LOUNGING AS IF MUNCHING GRAPES
WITH THE GODS AT SOME HEAVENLY BANQUET --
IS A REMINDER THAT THE ETRUSCANS BELIEVED
YOU'D HAVE FUN IN THE AFTERLIFE.
VOLTERRA'S 700-YEAR-OLD CITY HALL
CLAIMS TO BE THE OLDEST IN TUSCANY.
CIVIC PALACES LIKE THESE WERE EMBLEMS OF AN ERA
WHEN CITY STATES WERE STRONG.
THEY WERE ARCHITECTURAL EXCLAMATION POINTS
DECLARING THAT TOWNSPEOPLE, RATHER THAN POPES AND EMPERORS,
WERE CALLING THE SHOTS.
TOWNS LIKE VOLTERRA WERE TRULY CITY STATES.
THEY WERE FIERCELY INDEPENDENT AND RELATIVELY DEMOCRATIC.
THEY HAD THEIR OWN ARMIES, RAISED THEIR OWN TAXES,
EVEN HAD THEIR OWN SYSTEMS OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
A CHALLENGE FOR ME IN MY GUIDEBOOK WRITING
IS TO TAKE A SLICE OF A TOWN --
LIKE VOLTERRA'S MAIN DRAG -- AND WITH HELP FROM LOCAL GUIDES,
GIVE TRAVELERS A PEEK INTO THE CULTURE.
THERE'S SO MUCH TO SEE AND LEARN,
IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK.
ANNIE ADAIR, AN AMERICAN WHO FELL IN LOVE WITH VOLTERRA --
AND ONE OF ITS MEN --: WORKS HERE AS A GUIDE, AND SHE'S JOINING US TO HELP OUT.
Adair: SO EVERY SATURDAY MORNING WHEN THE TOWN MARKET IS HELD,
THIS LITTLE CORNER IS WHERE ALL OF THE FARMERS MEET TO DISCUSS
HOW THEY'RE GOING TO SELL THEIR WHEAT,
WHAT FERTILIZER THEY'RE GOING TO USE
OR WHATEVER THEY NEED --: Steves: SO IT'S A TRADITION, THEY GATHER RIGHT THERE.
Adair: EVERY SATURDAY MORNING YOU CAN SEE THE FARMERS,
USUALLY WITH A WOOL VEST, A NICE OLD HAT.
"HOW ARE YOUR FAVA BEANS DOING?"
EXACTLY.
SO TUSCAN TOWNS ARE FILLED WITH THESE LITTLE SPECIALTY STORES
WHERE YOU CAN FIND MEATS AND CHEESES.
OH, THERE YOU'VE GOT --
THE KING OF THE TUSCAN FOREST, THE WILD BOAR.
IT'S MADE INTO GREAT SAUSAGES AND HAM HOCKS.
AND THIS IS ITS LEG.
HAIRY ON THE OUTSIDE, BUT PROSCIUTTO IN THE INSIDE.
DELICIOSO.
Adair: SO IF THE CITY SEEMS CROWDED TODAY
JUST IMAGINE IN THE MIDDLE AGES
WHEN THERE WERE FOUR TIMES AS MANY PEOPLE
LIVING WITHIN THE CITY WALLS.
AND THEY'D HAVE TO BUILD WOODEN ADDITIONS
AND BALCONIES HANGING OUT OVER THE STREET,
SO IT WAS A TANGLED MESS OF BALCONIES AND ROOFS.
SO THESE LITTLE NUBS SUPPORTED WOODEN ADD-ONS BASICALLY?
EXACTLY.
NOW, THAT'S ONE STOUT TOWER.
IT WAS ACTUALLY THE HOUSE TOWER OR THE HOME
OF A NOBLE FAMILY IN THE 13th CENTURY.
SO IT WAS A PRIVATE HOME?
IT WAS A PRIVATE HOME,
BUT IT ALSO SERVED A DEFENSIVE FUNCTION.
YOU CAN SEE ON THE GROUND FLOOR --
THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN WHERE THEY WOULD HAVE HAD A STORE,
BUT THERE WAS NO INTERIOR STAIRCASE,
SO TO GET INSIDE THE HOUSE THEY'D HAVE TO USE A LADDER
UP TO THAT DOOR ABOVE THAT'S VERY NARROW.
SO THAT'S THE FRONT DOOR OF THE HOUSE?
THAT WAS THE FRONT DOOR TO GET INSIDE THE HOUSE.
AND IT WAS MADE SO NARROW SO THAT YOU COULDN'T POSSIBLY
GET INSIDE WEARING ARMOR.
Steves: IT TURNS OUT THAT QUAINT LITTLE VOLTERRA
WAS A SIGNIFICANT PLAYER: IN BOTH ANCIENT ETRUSCAN AND ROMAN TIMES.
Adair: BY ANCIENT STANDARDS, VOLTERRA WAS HUGE.
UNDER THE ETRUSCANS, THERE WERE 25,000 INHABITANTS.
25,000, WOW.
AND ABOUT FIVE CENTURIES LATER, UNDER THE ROMANS,
THERE WERE JUST AS MANY PEOPLE.
AND THEY BUILT THIS THEATER DOWN HERE
TO SEAT UP TO 2,000 SPECTATORS.
SO UNDER ALL OF THIS THERE'S ROMAN RUINS?
JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE YOU DIG: YOU CAN FIND SOMETHING THAT'S ROMAN.
Steves: ALABASTER HAS TRADITIONALLY BEEN
A SPECIALTY HERE.
FINE GALLERIES SHOW OFF: THE EXPERTISE OF LOCAL ARTISTS.
TO SEE SCULPTORS IN ACTION,
DROP BY THE POWDERY ALAB'ARTE WORKSHOP
WHERE ROBERTO AND GIORGIO TURN ROCK INTO ART.
ALABASTER, QUARRIED NEARBY,
HAS LONG BEEN A BIG INDUSTRY HERE IN VOLTERRA.
ALABASTER IS SOFTER: AND EASIER TO WORK THAN MARBLE.
LONG APPRECIATED FOR ITS TRANSLUCENT QUALITY,
IT WAS SLICED THIN TO PROVIDE WINDOWS
FOR ITALY'S MEDIEVAL CHURCHES.
JUST UP THE STREET, AT LA VENA DI VINO WINE BAR,
BRUNO AND LUCIO DEVOTE THEMSELVES
TO THE WONDERS OF WINE.
THEY SHARE THEIR VINO AND THEIR LOVE OF MUSIC
WITH A FUN-LOVING PASSION.
EACH DAY THIS WINE-SIPPING DUO
OPEN SIX OR EIGHT BOTTLES: OF THE BEST LOCAL WINE AND SERVE IT TO THE LOCAL GANG
WITH A CHARISMATIC FLAIR.
THIS IS YOUR CHANCE TO COMPARE TWO FAVORITE TUSCAN REDS --
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO AND SUPER TUSCAN
WITH THE HELP OF A GOOD TEACHER.
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO IS TRADITIONAL WINE IN TUSCANY.
IT'S SANGIOVESE GRAPES,
IT'S ONLY SANGIOVESE GRAPES.
SANGIOVESE GROSSO FROM MONTALCINO,
AND TRADITIONAL,
AGED FIVE YEARS.
SO THE BRUNELLO IS ALL SANGIOVESE?
ONLY SANGIOVESE.
SO EXPLAIN TO ME THE SUPER TUSCAN.
SUPER TUSCAN IS A TUSCAN WINE
BUT WITH INTERNATIONAL GRAPES.
CABERNET, MERLOT, SYRAH.
IT'S POSSIBLE WITH SANGIOVESE GRAPES.
SO IT'S OPEN FOR CREATIVITY, A LITTLE TUSCAN,
A LITTLE FRENCH, SPANISH, WHO KNOWS?
[ ITALIAN MUSIC PLAYS ]
TUSCAN WINES ARE SOME OF THE TASTIEST
AND MOST FAMOUS IN ITALY.
WINES ARE PARTICULAR TO THEIR VILLAGE.
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE SOIL,
TEMPERATURE, AND EXPOSURE TO SUN MAKE EACH WINE --
EVEN IF MADE FROM THE SAME SANGIOVESE GRAPE -- UNIQUE.
TO CONNECT WITH THE RURAL CHARM
THAT'S SO MUCH A PART OF OUR IMAGE OF TUSCANY,
WE'RE EXPLORING BY CAR AND STAYING NOT IN TOWNS
BUT IN FARM HOUSES,
LIKE THE AGRITURISMO TERRAPILLE.
THIS RELAXING HIDEAWAY CROWNS A BLUFF
JUST BELOW THE HILL TOWN OF PIENZA.
SURROUNDED BY 360 DEGREES: OF DREAMY TUSCAN SCENERY,
IT'S PRIVATE AND RUSTIC,
YET COMFY AND ROMANTIC.
IN THE SPRING, THE FERTILE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE
BECOMES A GREEN MOSAIC OF FARMS.
MANY OF THESE ARE AGRITURISMOS,
OFFERING GOOD VALUE ACCOMMODATIONS TO TRAVELERS.
SOME ARE LUXURIOUS, WITH PLUSH ROOMS
AND OFFERING AMENITIES: SUCH AS RIDING STABLES AND SWIMMING POOLS.
OTHERS ARE SIMPLE AND RUSTIC,
OFFERING CASUAL FARMHOUSE HOSPITALITY
AND THE SMELL OF WHATEVER IS BEING PRODUCED.
A PEACEFUL HOME BASE FOR EXPLORING THE REGION,
THESE RURAL ITALIAN B&Bs
ARE FAMILY-FRIENDLY: AND IDEAL FOR THOSE TRAVELING BY CAR.
AGRITURISMOS ARE SUBSIDIZED,
PART OF A GOVERNMENT EFFORT TO HELP SMALL, FAMILY-RUN FARMS
SURVIVE IN THIS AGE OF LARGE-SCALE CORPORATE FARMING.
TO QUALIFY AS AN AGRITURISMO,
THE PLACE MUST STILL BE A WORKING FARM.
IF THIS SOUNDS GOOD TO YOU, CHOOSE A PLACE
THAT ADVERTISES ITSELF SPECIFICALLY AS AN AGRITURISMO.
WHEN IN TUSCANY, I TEAM UP
WITH MY FRIEND AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE, ROBERTO BECHI.
HE ALWAYS HAS SOME CREATIVE WAYS TO GET OFF THE BEATEN PATH
AND CLOSER TO THE CULTURE.
THIS TIME IT'S TRUFFLES.
WE'RE MEETING FABIO AND HIS PRIZED DOGS NICK AND SUZY
TO HUNT THE BELOVED TRUFFLES,
ONE OF THIS REGION'S SPECIALTIES.
SO BASICALLY, WHAT ARE TRUFFLES?
TRUFFLES ARE MUSHROOMS THAT LIVE UNDERGROUND.
OKAY, AND WHERE DO YOU FIND THEM?
YOU FIND THEM NEAR THE OAK TREES.
LIKE HERE?
YEAH, A PERFECT ENVIRONMENT.
SO, WHAT KIND OF ENVIRONMENT DO THEY LIKE?
THEY NEED A LOT OF MOISTURE.
TELL ME ABOUT THESE DOGS.
THESE DOGS ARE TRAINED FOR YEARS
BEFORE THEY CAN FIND THE MUSHROOM.
THEY SMELL IT OUT?
THEY SMELL IT OUT.
DOVE!
Steves: THE DOGS ARE GIVEN TWO COMMANDS --
"DOVE" MEANS "WHERE IS IT?"
AND "C'E" -- "IS THERE ONE?"
C'E!
C'E!
DID HE FIND SOMETHING?
YEAH.
DOVE.
NOW HE'S GOT THIS TOOL HERE --
IT'S CALLED A VANGHINO, IT'S TO DIG OUT THE TRUFFLE.
I SEE ONE.
OH, THERE IT IS!
SO THIS IS THE PRECIOUS TRUFFLE?
THE FAMOUS TRUFFLE.
IN ITALIAN "TARTUFO"?
TARTUFO, CORRECT.
PEOPLE PAY A LOT OF MONEY FOR THIS?
$100 A POUND.
AH, SMELL THAT.
IT'S WONDERFUL, WITH PASTA.
AH, PRANZO.
[ LAUGHTER ]
JUST DOWN THE ROAD, THE VILLAGE OF CHIUSURE
IS CELEBRATING ITS ANNUAL ARTICHOKE FESTIVAL.
PEOPLE FROM ALL AROUND GATHER
TO CELEBRATE THE PEAK OF THE ARTICHOKE SEASON.
YOUNG AND OLD GATHER TO PREPARE
THESE BRISTLY TREATS.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
AH, THEY LOVE THEIR ARTICHOKES HERE.
I CAN SEE WHY, IT'S TASTY.
MM, WHAT IS IT ABOUT THESE ARTICHOKES?
WELL, THIS COMMUNITY BROUGHT BACK
THIS ARTICHOKE FROM EXTINCTION.
THIS PARTICULAR SPECIES?
THIS PARTICULAR SPECIES HERE.
SO THEY HAVE A FESTIVAL EVERY YEAR?
EVERY YEAR.
TELL ME ABOUT THIS SLOW FOOD.
THIS IS RELATED TO THE SLOW FOOD MOVEMENT RIGHT?
ABSOLUTELY, IT'S THE IDEA
THAT YOU HAVE TO EAT QUALITY AND NOT QUANTITY.
AND THAT YOU HAVE TO PRESERVE THE VARIETY OF FOODS.
SO NO CHEMICALS?
NO CHEMICALS FIRST, BUT ALSO THE VARIETIES.
MORE VARIETIES -- BETTER.
AND EAT IN THE SEASON.
ABSOLUTELY, ALWAYS IN SEASON.
WOW, I'LL BE BACK NEXT YEAR FOR THE ARTICHOKE FESTIVAL.
ABSOLUTELY.
Steves: AND FOOD JUST DOESN'T
GET MUCH SLOWER THAN CHEESE-MAKING.
IN THE NEARBY HILLS, A FLOCK OF FREE RANGE SHEEP
AND A FEW NOBLE GOATS: HEAD BACK TO MUNCH SPRING GRASS AFTER BEING MILKED.
VICTORIA, WITH A LITTLE HELP,
HAULS THEIR FRESH MILK INTO HER CHEESE WORKSHOP.
SHE STARTS BY POURING THE MILK
INTO A BIG KETTLE TO WARM.
WHEN IT GETS TO THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE,
SHE MIXES IN A THISTLE FLOWER SOLUTION,
INSTEAD OF RENNET, TO GET IT TO CURDLE.
THEN WHEN IT REACHES THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY
SHE STIRS IT AND SEPARATES THE CURDS
AND WHEY, OR LIQUID,
SHE PRESSES THE CURDS INTO FORMS MADE OF BEECHWOOD,
GENTLY SQUEEZING THE MOISTURE OUT.
AFTERWARDS, VICTORIA LOVINGLY TENDS
HER AGING ROUNDS OF CHEESE.
FARMS LIKE THIS ARE PART OF ITALY'S GROWING
"SLOW FOOD" MOVEMENT,
WHERE PRODUCERS MAINTAIN THE LABOR INTENSIVE TRADITIONS,
AND CONSUMERS ARE WILLING TO PAY EXTRA FOR THE QUALITY.
MEANWHILE, BACK AT THE AGRITURISMO,
THE CATTLE, OBLIVIOUS TO THEIR FATE,
ARE RAISED IN FREE RANGE BLISS.
THESE CHIANINA COWS ARE CELEBRATED
THROUGHOUT TUSCANY FOR THEIR LEAN AND TASTY BEEF.
IT'S SUNDAY, AND ROBERTO'S SLOW FOOD GROUP
IS ENJOYING A CONVIVIAL LUNCH ON THE FARM.
OUR MEAL COULDN'T BE MORE FRESH.
LOCAL WINE,
VICTORIA'S CHEESE, TODAY'S CRUNCHY BREAD.
WE'RE GRATING SOME OF THOSE EXQUISITELY PUNGENT
TRUFFLES ON OUR PASTA.
THE ARTICHOKES ARE GOBBLED DOWN RAW BY YOUNG AND OLD --
A LEAFY DELICACY.
AND OUR FLORENTINE-CUT STEAK IS COOKED
JUST THE WAY LOCALS LIKE IT -- RARE --
AND SLICED THIN,
GOOD ENOUGH FOR A MEDICI PRINCE.
LUNCH IS THE MAIN EVENT ON THIS TIMELESS TUSCAN SUNDAY.
OUR NEXT STOP, PIENZA,
IS A SMALL TOWN THAT PACKS A LOT OF RENAISSANCE PUNCH.
IN THE 1400s, POPE PIUS II OF THE PICCOLOMINI FAMILY
DECIDED TO REMODEL HIS HOMETOWN
IN A STYLE THAT WAS ALL THE RAGE -- RENAISSANCE.
WITH CONSTRUCTION FAST-TRACKED BY PAPAL CLOUT,
THE TOWN WAS TRANSFORMED IN JUST FOUR YEARS
FROM A MEDIEVAL JUMBLE: TO A JEWEL OF RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE.
AND THE TOWN THAT WAS NAMED CORSIGNANO
WAS RENAMED PIENZA, AFTER POPE PIUS II.
PIENZA'S CLASSIC MAIN SQUARE: IS FAMOUS FOR ITS ELEGANCE AND ARTISTIC UNITY --
THE CITY HALL...
TWO PALACES...
AND THE CATHEDRAL.
WITH ITS BOLD RENAISSANCE FACADE,
THE PICCOLOMINI FAMILY COAT OF ARMS
IMMODESTLY FRONT AND CENTER --
THE CHURCH DOMINATES PIAZZA.
POPE PIUS II'S PALACE, WHICH WELCOMES THE PUBLIC,
REMAINED THE HOME OF THE PICCOLOMINI FAMILY
UNTIL 1962.
PIENZA, WHILE PLENTY TOURISTY,
IS A DELIGHT TO EXPLORE.
IT DOESN'T TAKE LONG TO WALK EACH LANE IN THE TINY TOWN.
VIEWS FROM THE TERRACE INCLUDE THE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE,
AND SOMEWHERE IN THE DISTANCE, ON ANOTHER HILLTOP,
STANDS MONTEPULCIANO.
CROWNING YET ANOTHER RIDGE,
MONTEPULCIANO WELCOMES VISITORS
WITH VIEWS, VILLAS, AND VINO.
STREETS ARE LINED WITH NOBLE PALAZZOS
BECAUSE FLORENTINE NOBILITY FAVORED MONTEPULCIANO
AS A BREEZY AND RELAXED PLACE FOR A SUMMER RESIDENCE.
ARISTOCRATIC EGOS MEANT EACH PALACE
WAS BUILT TO OUTDO ITS NEIGHBOR.
PIAZZA GRANDE IS DOMINATED BY THE CITY HALL.
IT LOOKS LIKE THE PALAZZO VECCHIO IN FLORENCE
BECAUSE IT WAS BUILT: UNDER FLORENTINE DOMINANCE FIVE CENTURIES AGO.
THE CRENELLATIONS ALONG THE ROOF WERE NEVER INTENDED
TO HIDE SOLDIERS, JUST TO SYMBOLIZE POWER.
THE UNFINISHED DUOMO GLUMLY LOOKS ON,
WISHING THE CITY HADN'T RUN OUT OF MONEY FOR ITS FACADE.
IT'S NOT UNCOMMON TO FIND CHURCHES THAT WERE BUILT
UNTIL THEY WERE FUNCTIONAL ON THE INSIDE,
AND THEN FOR VARIOUS REASONS,
THE FACADES WERE LEFT UNFINISHED.
THIS INTENTIONALLY ROUGH BRICK WORK
PATIENTLY WAITS FOR ITS FINAL MARBLE VENEER,
WHICH WILL LIKELY NEVER ARRIVE.
ALSO FACING THE MAIN SQUARE: IS THE CONTUCCI PALACE,
WHERE THE CONTUCCI FAMILY STILL LIVES,
PRODUCES, AND SELLS THEIR WINE.
IN THEIR CANTINA THEY WELCOME VISITORS
TO APPRECIATE THEIR WINE AND HOW IT'S MADE.
SINCE 1953, YOUR WINE TASTING HOST
AND VERY PASSIONATE TOUR GUIDE HAS BEEN ADAMO.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO SPEAK ITALIAN
TO UNDERSTAND THAT ADAMO BELIEVES THEY MAKE EXCELLENT
NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO RIGHT HERE.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
ADAMO EXPLAINS THEIR WINE AGES FROM TWO TO FOUR YEARS
IN OAK FROM FRANCE, SLOVENIA, AND ITALY,
AND THAT EACH WOOD HAS ITS OWN DISTINCT CHARACTERISTICS.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
IF HE GETS THIS EXCITED ABOUT WOOD,
I CAN HARDLY WAIT FOR THE TASTING.
ADAMO EXPLAINS THAT THIS NOBILE HAS ONLY AGED
TWO OF ITS REQUIRED FOUR YEARS, AND IT'S PERFECT.
TO GO BEYOND PERFECTION: WE'LL TRY SOME FROM A BOTTLE IN THEIR TASTING ROOM.
SALUTE.
WITH ADAMO'S PASSION AND GUIDANCE,
WINE CAN BE ENJOYED BY ANYBODY VISITING MONTEPULCIANO
WE HAVE AN APPROPRIATELY ARISTOCRATIC GUESTHOUSE
TO CALL HOME IN TOWN,
AND THANKFULLY IT'S JUST AROUND THE CORNER.
MEUBLE IL RICCIO COMES WITH MEDIEVAL ELEGANCE,
COMFY ROOMS -- MINE HAS A VIEW...
AND AN EXPANSIVE AND MEMORABLE BREAKFAST ROOM.
THE OWNER, GIORGIO,
IS HAPPY TO HELP HIS GUESTS WITH SIGHTSEEING TIPS.
AND EVEN BETTER, GIORGIO'S TAKING ME FOR A SPIN
IN ONE OF HIS CLASSIC ITALIAN CARS.
TUSCANY LOOKS GREAT WITH THE TOP DOWN.
THE MANY CHARMS OF THIS REGION
REWARD THE TRAVELER WITH A FASCINATING INSIGHT
INTO A LAND THAT MAKES LIVING WELL
A TIME-HONORED ART.
LIFE CAN BE, OH, SO SWEET, ESPECIALLY HERE IN TUSCANY.
AND IT DOESN'T HURT TO HAVE GIORGIO FOR A DRIVER.
THANKS FOR JOINING US FOR A LITTLE DOLCE VITA.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELING.
AVANTI, GEORGIO.
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