Cook's Country

-"Cook's Country" celebrates the best of American home cooking.

Succulent tender pork.

The two sauces are perfect together.

-Give that a whiff.

-Ooh-hoo-hoo-hoo.

-Mmm-mmm.

-We highlight classic comfort food... This is burger perfection.

-It's so good.

-You can taste the crunch.

-...and share shortcuts to make low fuss, big flavor weeknight meals.

It was really easy to make.

-High payoff.

-We find regional favorites, uncovering the people and history behind exceptional recipes.

-Those bell peppers remind you of being in the South.

-This is "Cook's Country."

Today on "Cook's Country," Bryan visits the Little Fish restaurant in Los Angeles and makes me Little Fish-inspired fried fish sandwiches.

Jack explores different sesame oil types, and Morgan makes Bridget L.A.-style chili cheeseburgers.

It's all coming up right here on "Cook's Country."

-Funding for this program has been provided by the following.

-Monument Grills Denali 605Pro -- made for the family cookout and weeknight dinner.

With 900 square inches of cooking space, several accessories, and Bluetooth capabilities, it's designed with the host in mind.

Monument Grills -- the everybody everywhere grill.

-Los Angeles is a coastal city known for its expansive food culture, from fine dining to street food.

Across neighborhoods and cuisines, chefs here often take familiar dishes and put their own spin on them, so it's the perfect environment to see all our seafood favorites executed to their fullest potential.

That includes the classic fried fish sandwich, a staple in American fast food restaurants since the 1960s.

But gourmet?

That's not usually the first word that comes to mind.

-A little bit.

-Unless you've tried the fried fish sandwich at Little Fish.

-Crab's about to be up.

-Run by chefs Anna Sonenshein and Niki Vahle, this tiny neighborhood shop has taken one of the most humble sandwiches and turned it into something extraordinary, even earning them Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition along the way.

But this delectable fish sandwich came from unexpected and modest beginnings.

-Little Fish is our restaurant concept that we started out of our house together, just, like, four blocks down from where we are now, and we sold fried fish from our home.

-Anna and Niki met working in restaurants.

She was a host, and Niki, a cook.

So when the restaurant business had to pause during the pandemic in 2020, they began cooking together at home.

-Our house became this place that people would go to once a week and see each other when they weren't seeing anybody or doing anything.

-But as their fried fish pop-up began to pick up steam, they quickly outgrew their home kitchen.

-Once we realized how much we liked cooking together, like, the natural next step was to kind of, like, take it public.

-It's a really good practice in restraint to make a good sandwich.

You can't do too much.

It just doesn't make sense.

It doesn't need it.

So you have to get really, really smart about what you are going to do.

It's really a dish you have to think about holistically because every bite is every component.

-And that's the key to the success of Niki and Anna's fried fish sandwich.

It's so simple, they have nowhere to hide.

So every element had to be painstakingly developed.

Unlike the fast food frozen patties we're used to, this sandwich begins with fresh fish.

-Alright, so the two most important parts of this fish sandwich for us are the fish itself and then the batter.

The fish that we use is Pacific striped bass.

It's sourced locally from Baja.

So just, like, two hours south of here.

It tastes amazing, but also, the texture is really incredible.

It holds up really well.

-I love that you're using this firmer flesh fish as opposed to something like cod, where it's got those big flakes, and I imagine that would cause a few problems if you had it in a sandwich, squeezed it, took a bite, the flakes would just bust out the sides of that thing.

-To even get a little further into that sensation, we -- that bottle right behind you that -- that creamy Koji.

-Koji.

-Um, and Koji, it's cultured rice, so it's gonna be the base for , you know, sake, um, soy sauce... -Miso.

-...miso, exactly.

So it gives it a little bit more bite and some seasoning.

-Then the star of the show -- the batter, the part most places treat as an afterthought.

First, the flours go in -- a mixture of rice and all-purpose flours.

The rice flour keeps the crust super crisp because there's no gluten development.

The all-purpose is there just for a little structure so the batter sticks to the fish.

Next, baking powder goes in for a little bit of lift and to help the crust puff slightly as it fries, then a pinch of kosher salt and a quick whisk.

Now the wet ingredients -- [ Can tabs pop ] ...beer, vodka.

-Okay.

Ready?

Go.

Ahh.

-...and a bit of honey.

-Give me, like, a one, two count on the honey.

-One, two.

-Yup, perfect.Perfect.

-The beer brings carbonation.

The vodka adds moisture without producing tough gluten.

And the honey is purely for color because it browns fast.

The batter stays lumpy, almost like pancake batter, with bubbles still rising to the surface.

Then the filets get a quick dredge and they're ready to fry.

-A little flour on either side.

Dunk it in the batter and get as much on there as you can.

Okay, and then straight in, and you're going to hold it as close as your fingers can get in and then let it go.

That's it.

-Oh.

Alright.

-Yep.

-On the surface, it seems so simple and straightforward.

Just really diving deep into what makes this great fish sandwich a great fish sandwich.

-You have to be obsessed with it.

It's a very, very fun process.

-After it's fried, we top it off with salt and MSG and then it's time to build the sandwich.

We start with Kewpie, a rich Japanese mayo made from egg yolks, rice and cider vinegars, and MSG.

Then the dill pickles for that crunchy tang.

And top it all off with a slice of American cheese, the king of all sandwich cheeses.

The whole thing goes in a pillowy potato roll.

-Oh, yeah.

That was a good crunch.

You worked hard for that crunch.

-The batter on the fish, it almost shatters.

-Totally.

-It's just like, psh, you know, you can hear it echo through your skull.

I think the guy across the street heard it shatter.

I think in many ways, this is a perfect sandwich.

-Bryan, what a great story.

I loved how Anna and Niki were selling fish sandwiches out of their kitchen window like it was a drive through.

-Yeah.

I mean, having their fish sandwich is a great example of, like, taking a recipe concept and breaking down each element to make it as close to perfect as you can get.

-I can't wait to try it.

-Well, it all starts with the fish, okay?

Now, they were using striped bass out there... -Mmm.

-...'cause it's thin.

It's about 1/2 inch thick and it's got a small flake.

So right now we're going to use fluke.

But you can also use, like, red snapper or sole, another kind of flounder.

-Mm-hmm.

-But the important thing is that you get a 3 to 4-ounce piece and it's about 1/2 inch thick.

-Okay.

-Okay, so we're going to season those up with salt and pepper.

And I just have 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon of pepper here.

I'm just going to toss it in my hand and then rain down the flavor, get both sides of the fish.

The fish is seasoned up and now we can turn our attention to our batter.

So I have about 3/4 of a cup, or 106 grams of all-purpose flour.

So we're using roughly a 2-to-1 ratio of all-purpose flour.

Like I said, it's 3/4 of a cup, or 106 grams, to about 6 tablespoons of white rice flour.

-Interesting.

-Now this is about 57 grams here.

-Mm-hmm.

-Now, the reason why it's important to use this combination of flours is that the all-purpose flour will provide structure, but this white rice flour really makes it crispy.

-Yeah.

-To that we're going to add 2 1/2 teaspoons of baking powder, which, compared to the amount of flour, it's a significant amount.

-Mm-hmm.

-But that's going to give us a lot of nice lift to make a really light batter.

-And some good browning.

-Right.

And then 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and then 1/2 teaspoon of MSG to kind of boost that umami.

-Nice.

-We'll give this a little mix.

Okay.

Just make sure that's all nicely incorporated.

Now let's talk about the wet ingredients.

-Mm-hmm.

-So we're going to add 6 ounces of a mild lager.

-Okay.

-So we're not looking for beer flavor.

We just want some of the lift from the effervescence of the beer.

-So if you didn't want to use beer, you could use, say, a seltzer?

-Or you could use a non-alcoholic beer.

-Oh, there you go.

-Then we're going to add 1/4 cup of vodka.

The vodka is going to add moisture to the batter, obviously, but the important thing here is that it doesn't activate gluten.

So again, everything we're doing is to keep the batter light and crisp and not chewy or tough.

And then one of the most clever things that I found there is they add a little bit of honey.

So just about 1 teaspoon.

And we'll just whisk this together.

And we're really just trying to bring it together until everything is just combined.

We don't want to overmix it, you know.

Just as soon as everything is combined, you can still see a few lumps.

-Starting to foam up.

-Starting to foam up.

We're going to let that sit.

We don't need to overmix it.

We want to keep all that air in the batter.

-Gotcha.

-Okay, so we'll turn on the oil here.

We have 3 quarts of vegetable oil.

We're going to turn it on.

Let it come to 350 degrees.

And when we come back, we'll be ready to fry the fish.

Alright, Julia, we're creeping up on 350 degrees for our oil.

-Okay.

-Perfect.

Okay, so now we can go ahead and add all of the fish to our batter.

Let's just drop it all in there.

-Look how thick that batter is.

-It's really going to stick to the fish.

Okay, so I'm going to just kind of roll it around, submerge it all in the batter.

So I like to just coat the fish with as much of the batter as possible.

I have one sacrificial hand here.

-Yep.

-And then I pull it out with a fork.

Otherwise, I have thumb prints in -- in here.

-Yep.

-So take anything that's dripping off, let it fall off.

And then just drag it across the surface of the oil.

-You're setting the batter so that it doesn't stick to the sides or the bottom of the pot.

-You've done this before?

-Mm-hmm.

-You're an experienced fryer.

-Yeah, but not with a batter like this.

-Okay.

Alright, our final piece.

Make sure it's battered nicely on all sides.

As soon as this last piece hits the oil, we're going to go ahead and start counting 90 seconds.

-Okay.

-Okay, so it's been about 90 seconds.

So we can go ahead and give these a light flip.

-Oh, goodness.

Look at that coloring.

-You see how gorgeous that is?

-That's that honey, that -- Really, a little bit of honey does so much for this.

-Wow.

And it's so puffy.

-Yeah.

So it's been about 90 seconds on the second side here.

-So fast.

-Let's take a look at how beautiful this stuff is.

-Goodness.

Look how thick and puffy it got.

-It's nice and crispy.

-[ Julia gasps ] -So I want to just drop it onto a paper towel-lined side of a wire rack.

The paper towel's there because it's going to wick away any of the surface oil.

-Mm-hmm.

-So let that sit there just for a few seconds and we'll flip it over.

Do the same on the second side.

-Goodness.

-Give it a little flip with the second side all wicked away here.

-Whoa.

-So now we're going to move it to the wire side or the uncoated side of the rack, just to let the air circulate around this, which is always important when you fry something because you don't want to let it sit against something solid, or else it'll start to steam and all that coating that we worked really hard to get it's going to kind of fall apart.

And then on top of this, we're going to season with a little bit of MSG.

For this amount of fish, you want to use about 1/4 of a teaspoon and really just kind of driving home some of the flavor.

-Mm-hmm.

-And on top of each piece of fish, we're going to use trusted king of cheeses -- American cheese.

And this is, like, the American cheese right out of the plastic wrap.

-Uh-huh.

-And we have some toasted and buttered potato buns... -Mmm.

-...which is what they use at, uh, at Little Fish.

And on top of that, we're going to put some Kewpie mayonnaise.

So we'll just squiggle that on each side.

-Oh, wow.

-Oh, wow.

Look at the flavor happening in front of me.

And then on each sandwich we'll do four pickle chips.

These are dill pickle chips.

-Mmm, yum.

-Okay.

I'm going to give you this big boy here.

Top it with this little hat.

-[ Chuckles ] Mmm.

Bryan, I've never been more excited to eat a fish sandwich in my life.

-[ Bryan chuckles ] -How is it?

-Mm-hmm.

-[ Laughs ] -Mm-hmm.

That is really good.

-Really good?

-You know what I like?

It's not cod.

It's a nice, firm, thin white fish.

That coating, it's crisp.

And then you taste fish.

-So nice and light.

And you're right, it's, like, it doesn't get in the way of the fish.

-Mnh-mnh.

-And the fish has got a lot of flavor left.

There's pickles, the Kewpie, the -- the American cheese.

-A little bit of cheese.

Bryan, this is fantastic.

Nice work.

-Thanks.

-If you want to make this amazing fried fish sandwich, start by making a batter using a roughly 2-to-1 ratio of all-purpose flour to rice flour, deep fry the fish quickly and season with MSG, then make a sandwich with American cheese, Kewpie, and some pickles.

From "Cook's Country," with special thanks to Anna and Niki, a Little Fish-inspired fried fish sandwich.

-I can't get enough.

-Yeah.

I want to try this coating on so many things.

-Yeah, well, we got two more sandwiches to finish first.

-At home, I make a lot of Korean, Japanese, and Chinese recipes, so I use a lot of toasted sesame oil.

Now, that's different than plain sesame oil, which is made from raw sesame seeds.

Toasted sesame oil, also labeled roasted sesame oil, is made from, you guessed it, toasted sesame seeds.

But within that category, there can be a wide range of flavors and colors.

I'm going to start down here, this artisanal oil from Japan.

And we found in general the artisanal oils were a little bit lighter in color.

This is from a company called WADAMAN, and it's made from actually golden sesame seeds.

Generally, sesame oil is made from white sesame seeds, but these golden sesame seeds obviously have a golden color, and it's a really light flavor.

This would be wonderful if you wanted to drizzle a little bit of sesame oil over the noodles just before serving them.

If you were going to make a stir fry, this one's pretty delicate and you might lose the sesame flavor, 'cause remember, these are finishing oils.

They're meant to add a lot of flavor at that last minute.

You do not actually cook with them.

So next up we have another Japanese oil.

This is what we would call sort of a medium.

It's from a company called Kadoya.

And it's a lot less expensive 'cause it's a supermarket oil.

It's nutty and toasted.

But as I said, it's in the sort of medium category.

Korean oil next.

Now this is from Otoki.

This one reminded me of peanuts and tahini.

It's really lovely.

It's got a buttery flavor and a little bit, just a teeny bit of smokiness to it.

It is delicious.

And finally, we have a dark sesame oil.

This is from a Japanese company called Maruhon.

And they make sesame oil in all kinds of colors.

This is their dark version, and it's got a really robust, big, nutty, toasted flavor.

It is not burnt or bitter.

That is a sign of a failed sesame oil.

They are not supposed to be bitter, but it is absolutely delicious.

Now, two more things.

These all are 100% sesame oil.

Sometimes in the supermarket you'll see sesame oil cut with vegetable oil or soybean oil.

No, that is not what you want to be looking for.

Second is they don't have to go into the fridge.

You can put them in the fridge, but they are going to get a little cloudy Buy small quantities like you would with fine olive oil.

And keep it in a dark pantry.

Use it up in a couple of months If it's been in your pantry for two years, I'm promising you it's not very good.

So there you have it.

The world of toasted sesame oil.

Nutty and delicious.

-Which came first, the chili or the cheeseburger?

Well, if we're talking the turn of the 20th century L.A., chili reigns supreme.

But it wasn't long before burger joints opened up all over the place.

And at some point, chili was topped on a burger.

Well, to tell us more is Morgan.

-Yeah, Bridget, so the original chili cheeseburger was invented in L.A.

at a place called Ptomaine Tommy's... -Mm-hmm.

-then a place called Tommy's Original World-Famous Hamburger.

Good name for it.

-Great name.

-Actually popularized it.

And so we're going to do an inspired version by all those delicious L.A.

chili cheeseburgers.

-Okay, great.

-Now we got to start with the chili.

So I have 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil.

I've been heating it over medium high heat.

-Mm-hmm.

-And to that I'm going to add 1/2 a pound of 80% ground beef.

I'm also going to add 1/2 a small onion and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

-Alright.

-And I'm just gonna get in there and break it up with a spoon, making sure to get it into small pieces.

I'm gonna cook this until a fond starts to form on the bottom of the pan.

-It'll take about five minutes.

-Okay.

I'll keep an eye on that.

But while that cooks, let's make some cheeseburgers.

-Let's patty it up.

-Let's patty it up.

Okay, so here I have 1 pound of 80% ground beef, and I'm just going to dump that out.

I'm going to divide this into 4 equal pieces.

You can see I'm not going to handle it a crazy amount.

You see some people really work ground beef.

-Yes.

-That is a way to make it really tough.

And I do not want this to be super tough.

So I'm looking for patties that are 4 1/2 inches wide.

They're going to end up being about 1/2 an inch thick, so they're going to be pretty thin, all things considered.

But that's pretty great for a chili cheeseburger.

You've got all that other meat from the chili.

-Yes.

-You don't need a crazy thick burger patty.

So one thing I always like to do with burgers is just give them a little divot.

So I just go in and go about 1/4 inch down and 1 inch across and just make a little divot with my hands.

It doesn't feel like it's a really extreme thing, but it keeps it from puffing up and turning into a hockey puck in a skillet.

Alright, so I am going to cover this with some plastic.

And then I got to wash my hands, and then we'll pop this in the fridge.

-Okay.

-Okay, Bridget, you can see there's a nice little bit of fond down here.

-Definitely.

A lot of flavor developed.

-A lot of flavor.

Exactly.

That's what we're going for.

Now I'm going to add some aromatics to give this a little more flavor and turn it into chili.

-Yes.

-So here I have a 1/4 cup of tomato paste.

I also have 1 tablespoon of chili powder, 2 teaspoons of flour just for a little thickness.

I've got 2 minced garlic cloves.

I also have 1 teaspoon of cumin.

So this is essentially a coney sauce but with a little L.A.

spin.

-Right.

And by coney sauce you mean hot dog chili?

-Hot dog chili.

Exactly.

Hot dog chili.

Alright, then I got 1 teaspoon of light brown sugar here.

And then I've got 1/2 teaspoon of pepper.

I'm just going to get in here and stir these and make sure that tomato paste is fully incorporated.

I'm just going to go until it's fragrant.

I'll take about a minute.

-Okay.

-Smells fragrant to me.

-It smells beautiful.

-It does.

[ Sniffs ] Smells really good.

I'm gonna turn this down to medium low now.

-Alright.

-And I'm going to stir in 1 cup of water and then get in here and scrape up any brown bits.

-Yes.

-Make sure we're getting all that flavor into the chili.

-There's tons of fond, not only on the bottom of the pan, but all around the sides, too.

-So now this is looking pretty good.

Now, I'm going to get in here and mash it with a potato masher.

You want it to be nice and fine, and this is going to help you get there.

It's not quite as much as if you processed it with a food processor, which would make it chili paste.

-Right.

-But it's going to be nice and fine.

Alright, so I really didn't need a ton, but that's a little extra assurance.

You don't want any big clumps of meat in your chili for this.

-Right.

-I'm going to bring it to a simmer.

And then I'm just going to let it go until I can drag my spoon through it and it'll slowly fill in.

-Okay.

-It'll take about 10 minutes.

Alright, so this looks perfect.

I'm going to turn off the heat and I'm just going to stir in 1 teaspoon of pickle brine.

-Ooh.

Good.

-I know.

Just a little acidity.

-Yeah.

So many flavors in pickle brine.

-Okay, that looks great.

I am just going to cover this and keep this warm.

It's going to be off to the side.

We don't have to think about it for a minute.

-Got it.

Got it.

-Now let's go back to our burgers.

-Yes.

-So these have been in the fridge, and now I'm just going to season them.

So I have 3/4 of 1 teaspoon of salt.

And to that I'm adding 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

-Alright.

-And I'm just going to get these nice and mixed together.

I'm gonna sprinkle half of this over this side.

Try to get it nice and even.

Always go from up high so that you can make sure you're getting nice salt coverage.

-Yes.

-And then over to our skillet.

So here I have a 12-inch cast-iron skillet.

I've been heating it over medium high heat for five minutes.

You want it nice and hot.

So to that I'm going to add 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil.

And I'm just going to swirl this around in here.

Make sure it's nice and evenly covered.

So now I'm going to add in the burgers and I'm going to go divot side down.

-And they're so thin you've got to use a spatula.

-Mm-hmm.

Exactly.

-Yes.

-So I'm going to fit them all in the skillet.

So you want to be thoughtful in where you're placing them.

-Yes.

-So now I'm going to season the second side with the rest of that salt and pepper.

And just sprinkle that over top.

Now, I'm not going to touch these for three minutes.

I want a really nice crust on there.

You don't have a ton of patties.

You want a really nice crust.

And moving it screws up the crust.

-It does.

It does.

-Yeah.

So three minutes untouched.

During that time I'm going to wash my hands.

-Okay.

-Okay.

Alright, Bridget, it's been three minutes.

Let's check these guys out.

-Ooh.

-I know.

-That's a good crust.

-It's a good crust.

-Whoo.

Oh, yeah.

-Fun.

Okay.

Now, I'm gonna add some American cheese on top.

See, I got two slices of American cheese, so I'm gonna let this go.

It's gonna cook through fully on the second side.

I'm not gonna bother temping these.

They're so thin, they're definitely gonna be cooked through.

-Right.

-It's gonna take about one to two minutes for that cheese to be melty.

And then burger time.

-Assembly.

-Assembly.

We have a gorgeous sight in front of us.

-That's -- That's what I love to hear.

-Yeah, the nice little sizzle.

And look at how melty that cheese is.

-Beautiful.

-Beautiful.

-You know, that's another advantage of not packing the burgers nice and tight.

You get all these little crevices that the cheese can kind of melt into.

-Mmm.

Yeah.

-And fill like a comforting blanket in your life.

-Okay, so we've got our burgers, the skillet's off heat now.

It's just time to assemble.

So I'm doing 2 tablespoons of chili per burger base.

Alright, I'm just going to spread this out a little bit.

Nice little landing zone right here.

And then I'm going to go in with cheeseburgers.

If there's one you're eyeing, just keep an eye on it so you know which one to grab.

[ Both laugh ] And then second layer, another 2 tablespoons.

Honestly, you're just kind of using up whatever chili you have left here, but it's about 2 tablespoons per burger.

Now, toppings.

I have 12 pickles.

I'm just going to divide them between these.

-Just dill pickle chips since you used the dill pickle brine.

-Exactly, so you use some of the brine, use some of the pickles on your burgers.

And then I'm going to add some onion.

And then I'm going to smear a little mustard on here.

I'm just gonna do that on the top bun.

-Alright.

-So a little top.

Alright.

Do you want -- This one, I think, was yours, if you want to grab it.

-Thank you.

-Uh-huh.

And then I'm going to grab this one for myself.

-Yes.

Look at this beast.

-I know.

-Mmm.

-Mm.

Mmm.

-That chili is so tender.

-Mm-hmm.

-Really big flavor, and that didn't cook long at all.

-No.

-Really big flavor.

-But it really develops it.

I think by cooking that tomato paste and that chili powder.

You're blooming all that flavor.

You're getting so much in there.

And I feel like you get a nice crust from that burger.

-You absolutely do.

I just got my first bite of burger there.

Mm.

Beautiful counterpoint to the soft chili.

You got that lacing of crust on the outside.

Pickles are fantastic.

-Mm-hmm.

-And lots of cheese.

-I know.

-You know, I feel like the cheese is absolutely essential.

It's the glue for the chili to sit on.

Otherwise it would just be chaos.

-Exactly.

-This is burger perfection.

Thank you so much, Morgan.

-Thank you, Bridget.

-This was a ton of fun, and you're definitely going to want to make these cheeseburgers.

And it starts by making a quick chili with ground beef, onion, tomato paste, and spices, mash the chili until fine and finish with pickle brine, and assemble the burgers on buns with a layer of chili, the cheeseburgers, more chili, and toppings.

So from "Cook's Country," L.A.-style chili cheeseburgers.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes, and you'll find them all on our website, cookscountry.com/TV.

-I gotta get more of this.

-Yes.

It's getting sloppier by the second.

-Yeah.

-That's a good sign.

-It is a good sign.

-Enjoy this season's recipes, read our ingredient and equipment reviews, and cook alongside your favorite test cooks at cookscountry.com.

You'll have access to every episode from this season and more, all at cookscountry.com/TV.

-Your favorite recipes rooted in history, plus the tips, ingredients, and equipment you need to cook them can now all be found in one place.

Introducing our "Complete Cook's Country Cookbook", now with every recipe from all 19 seasons.

This volume of "Cook's Country" helps with planning, prep, and cooking, and at a cost of $24.99, $15 off the cover price of $40.

To order, head to our shop at cookscountry.com/TVBook.

-Funding for this program has been provided by the following.

-Monument Grills Denali 605Pro -- made for the family cookout and weeknight dinner.

With 900 square inches of cooking space, several accessories, and Bluetooth capabilities, it's designed with the host in mind.

Monument Grills -- the everybody everywhere grill.

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