America's Test Kitchen

-Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Elle makes Julia a breakfast taco board for a crowd... Adam reviews stand mixers... and Becky makes Bridget deluxe blueberry pancakes.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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Results made simple.

-Cooking breakfast for a crowd can be tricky, because there's not a lot of time to prep in the morning unless you wake up super early.

And key menu items, like eggs, require cooking at the last minute.

But today, Elle's going to show us a new way to make a big breakfast.

-That's right.

We're going to have a breakfast taco board.

-Ooh!

-Building a board requires a plan.

It's essential to make sure you get the food on the table, ready and hot, all at the same time.

-And you can sit down and eat with your guests.

-That's the only reason we do it, right?

-Mm-hmm.

-So, today we're going to start with one of my favorite recipes.

It's poblano, beans, and corn.

-Ooh.

-And I love this recipe because it's easy.

-Ah, key for a breakfast.

-That's right.

So, we have most of our ingredients pretty much ready here.

This recipe calls for 2 poblanos.

I'm going to finish this last one off.

And you treat this like you treat any pepper.

I cut the crown off.

I cut the body down the middle.

We want to get all the seeds out.

A lot of the seeds will fall out pretty easily.

I also will cut out any of the rib parts if it's just too -- too much.

-Mm-hmm.

Alright, we got the seeds out of the way.

Just cutting them into strips.

These are maybe, what, about 1/2 inch?

-Mm-hmm.

-Because we're cooking them, I don't want to cut them too small.

I don't want them to be mushy.

Okay, so, we finished prepping our poblanos.

I have here a 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tablespoon of vegetable oil.

It's ready to go, because the oil is shimmering.

-Mm-hmm.

-I'm gonna start with our ingredients.

1/2 cup of onion.

-Oh, yeah.

Mmm.

-Our 2 poblanos, chopped.

And I have a can of pinto beans.

-That's an easy prep, right there.

-Oh, yeah.

And I just rinsed them.

And a cup of frozen corn.

Super simple.

And to just finish it off with some flavor, we have 2 teaspoons of chili powder and 1/4 teaspoon of salt.

I have this over medium heat.

And what we're looking for are for the vegetables to just soften.

And that takes about 6 to 8 minutes.

-Okay.

Goodness, that smells good.

-I know it, I know it.

And it's been about 8 minutes, so it's ready to go.

-Alright.

-Alright?

So, I'm going to turn the heat off.

And you see, we have our board set up here.

-Mm-hmm.

-That teamwork is making the dream work.

-[ Chuckles ] -I love this.

-So pretty.

-It's so pretty, right?

It's good any time, any day, not just for breakfast.

We have the board primarily built.

-Mm-hmm.

-So, before we start to cook our eggs, we want to just make sure everything's ready on the board.

Alright, so, I have some scallions here.

And I love to put all the fresh ingredients on the board, so you can just kind of like scoop and go.

-Mm-hmm.

-And we have some avocado.

-Ooh, nice!

-I know, they're gorgeous.

So, I'm just gonna fan it out.

A little food styling, right?

And it looks like we're ready.

We have some hash browns... -Mmm.

-...chorizo, a little salsa.

-Nice.

-We have limes, cilantro that I've used a little butcher twine... -Oh!

-...to make it an easy bouquet from.

-That's very sweet-looking.

-Thank you!

We have some scallions, jalapeos.

Of course, our fresh avocado, Monterey Jack cheese... -Ooh.

-...our poblano, beans, and corn.

-Only have one thing missing.

-Eggs.

-Mm-hmm.

-Yep.

We're ready to make some eggs.

So, I have here a 12-inch skillet.

-I love how you saved the eggs for the last minute.

-Yep.

-Because they have to be hot and freshly cooked.

-That's right.

I like my eggs what I call PNP.

-PNP?

-Pillowy, not pebbly.

-Oh!

I'm gonna take that from you.

That's brilliant.

-I don't like pebbly eggs, because we need eggs that fit snugly into a breakfast taco.

And if they're pebbles, what are they gonna do?

-They're gonna fall on your shirt.

-They're gonna roll across town.

-[ Chuckles ] -Right?

We don't need that.

So, to get our eggs started, we have 2 tablespoons of butter melting in a nonstick 12-inch skillet.

-Mm-hmm.

-And I have 12 eggs here, 1/4 teaspoon of pepper, 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

Very simple recipe.

And what I'm going to do is just whisk them until it's all yellow, completely combined.

-Alright.

-So, what we're going to do when we're cooking this egg, to get the pillowy egg that we really love, is to scrape the edges and the bottom of this pan... -Mm-hmm.

-...until the eggs start to clump.

-Alright.

-Alright?

And this only takes about 2 minutes, but as you can see, it's already going down.

-Yeah.

-Egg waits for no man.

-It's true.

-Or woman.

Okay?

It's happening.

And you'll know that you're getting very close to it being ready when your spatula leaves an empty trail in the bottom of the pan.

Alright, I think we're at the point where we can kind of turn the heat down a little bit.

-Okay.

-I'm just going to turn it down to low.

And while I'm finishing this off, would you start toasting some tortillas for me?

-You bet.

-Right?

-Toasting tortillas is one of my favorite things.

I actually pretend I'm a short-order cook, and I get all the burners on I have available to me.

-And you go for it.

-Oh, yeah.

-I love that, I love that.

-Yeah.

-Well, in this last 30 seconds of cooking, I'm just folding the eggs to make nice clumps.

Right?

Alright, these look fantastic.

They're slightly wet, right?

-Those are gorgeous.

-Nice clumps.

Thanks, girl.

I know how to do an egg, now.

-Yeah, you do.

-I know how to egg.

-[ Laughs ] -Alright, let me get these on the plate.

Wow, those look fantastic!

-Thank you.

I'm having fun using all the burners.

-It looks great.

-[ Chuckles ] This is the way to do it.

-You're gonna make people jealous.

-[ Chuckling ] Yeah.

It has a very good tortilla smell going on over there.

-It does.

-I like a little char.

Do you like a little char?

-I love a little char, actually.

-Alright, and you -- -And this is exactly where we should be.

All the food is hot.

It's ready to go.

-Mm-hmm.

-The tortillas are coming along.

-Nice.

- We did it -[ Laughs ] Here are the warm tortillas.

You can get started.

-Alright.

Wonderful.

-If you didn't have a gas stove like this, you could just warm them up in a dry pan.

-Alright.

-Look at that board!

-Yeah, girl, we made breakfast taco board for a crowd.

-[ Laughs ] -And we are ready.

-And I'm hungry.

-Me too.

This would be, like, a great thing for a birthday breakfast or Mother's Day.

-Yes.

It's pretty easy, but it's impressive.

And it feels special.

-Right?

And it is definitely something to enjoy with friends.

Okay, we have some hash browns.

-Oh, yes, please.

-Alright.

-And you can find that recipe for hash browns on our website.

-Let's get into the nitty-gritty.

-Mm-hmm.

-Let's make some tacos.

-Mm-hmm.

[ Laughs ] -Alright, I'm going to start with some eggs.

-I'm going to follow you.

Oh, a little cheese on the egg so it melts.

-A little cheese.

Okay.

Would you like some poblano?

-Yes, please.

-There's a little for you.

A little chorizo.

-Oh, yeah, please.

-Alright.

-Mm-hmm!

Mmm!

Avocado.

-Yep, yep.

-That looks great.

A little salsa?

-Oh, yeah.

-Mm-hmm.

And a sprig of cilantro.

-Of our cilantro bouquet.

-I love it.

Some scallions.

-Hot sauce?

-Oh, thank you.

-Yep.

Alright.

-Oh.

-I think I overstuffed my taco.

No such a thing.

-Classic move.

-Oh, wow.

-Mmm!

-Mm-hmm, mm-hmm.

-Mmm!

-The best part is that even after we've done all that work, our food is still hot and fresh.

-Eggs are perfectly cooked.

The flavor of the poblanos with that little bit of chili powder.

-Yeah.

-And you know, it was frozen corn, but because you sauted it with the salt and the chili powder... -Yes.

-...it tastes delicious.

-It takes it over the top, I'm telling you.

-Mm-hmm.

-And it was so easy.

-And I love all the garnishes.

-Thank you.

-Mmm!

-Mmm!

[ Laughs ] That's called joy in unison.

-[ Laughs ] This is a spectacular idea.

Thank you, Elle.

-My pleasure.

-If you want to make a delicious, colorful breakfast taco board like this, start by sauting the poblanos, corn, and pinto beans with some chili powder.

Assemble the board with a variety of taco toppings, like shredded cheese and avocados, and scramble the eggs at the last minute.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a great way to make breakfast for a crowd -- a breakfast taco board.

I'm into this!

-Yeah.

-I actually might serve this for dinner.

Breakfast for dinner?

-We call that "brinner."

-[ Laughs ] I like it.

-Mmm.

-Two -- two -- powerhouse stand mixers have entered the Octagon, but only one can survive.

What's it gonna be today?

Here to tell us all about our new stand mixer testing is Adam.

-Oh, Bridget, this is a big one.

This was really exciting to us.

Now, everybody -- every American baker, at least -- is going to recognize the KitchenAid.

-Yes!

-Right?

This is sort of the standard-bearer in this country.

However, this one in front of me -- this is a Swedish machine called the Ankarsrum 6230.

And this is, in Europe, what the KitchenAid is in America.

-Okay.

-This is a familiar machine, a powerhouse.

We wanted to test the redesign of the big 7-quart KitchenAid.

This is now called the KitchenAid 7-quart Bowl-Lift Stand Mixer with Redesigned Premium Touch Points.

-Ooh!

-We'll get to those.

-Okay.

-And so we took this opportunity to test the Ankarsrum, its European equivalent, alongside.

-Okay.

-These are both marketed to serious home bakers.

They're both for, you know, heavy-duty bread-baking projects.

-Right.

-And they're not cheap.

They're pricey, in fact.

The KitchenAid is $650, the Ankarsrum is $750.

-But they are workhorses.

-They are workhorses.

-Yeah.

-And in terms of workhorses, our tests included everything that you would do in a standing mixer.

Whipping -- we did small amounts like 2 egg whites, or 4 egg whites is a larger amount, and 1 1/2 cups of heavy cream to stiff peaks.

-Mm-hmm.

-Creaming, which we did regular creaming butter and sugar for cookie dough, reverse creaming butter and dry ingredients for a cake batter.

And of course, we mixed and kneaded bread doughs.

We did double batches of two different types of dough -- a really sticky, high-hydration pizza dough... -Okay.

-...and a really stiff bagel bread dough.

Now let's start with the KitchenAid.

It actually did fine.

It had no problems.

It demonstrated plenty of power.

And in fact, what it demonstrated -- not just power but specifically plenty of torque.

Torque is the rotational force that the motor generates to push the material through the bowl.

-Right.

-It's generally not marketed by manufacturers.

They will market wattage, which is the amount of power it draws from an outlet.

-Mm-hmm.

-We think torque is more important.

-Mm-hmm.

-That's the rotational force.

That's what's gonna do your mixing and your whipping for you.

-That gives you the real data.

-It gives you the real data.

We talked to a bunch of industry experts, and they all agreed that the absence of torque is easy to spot in a mixer, because when it's under load, when it's kneading something really sticky or heavy, if there's not enough torque, it can begin to stumble... -Right.

-...struggle, overheat, and it could potentially fail.

-Yeah, you can hear them groaning.

-Yeah, you definitely can.

-Yeah, yeah.

-In terms of this machine's updates, because this is the new model, it's got stainless-steel attachments.

It's got an extra paddle that has these silicone fins that scrapes the side of the bowl as you go.

-Right.

-So you don't have to do as much scraping.

It's got more speeds.

And it's got a half-speed for folding in delicate ingredients.

-Okay.

-Like its predecessor, this one is heavy.

It's more than 25 pounds, which is good 'cause that lends stability.

And the bowl, you can see, it's got this big, chunky, vertical handle, which makes the bowl really easy to pick up, tip over, scrape from, pour from.

We've all done that.

-Right.

-Exactly.

This is a bowl-lift design.

This is going to be familiar to every American home baker.

It's got this handle over here that you use to crank the bowl up and down, underneath the top-mounted motor.

-Okay.

-Testers found that actually access to the bowl was not ideal.

It's hard to get ingredients in neatly.

It's hard to see in neatly unless you lower the bowl.

-Right.

-Say, it's up, you lower it.

You have to take off the attachment, disengage the bowl... -Sure.

-...and then you can get in there with unimpeded access.

-Yeah, it can be hard to, like, tilt ingredients in there.

-Exactly.

There's another concern that arose after we were done with all of our testing.

We learned that KitchenAid actually has placed some time and speed restrictions on all of its models, including this one.

So, you are not supposed to knead dough in excess of speed 2.

You're not supposed to knead dough for more than 2 minutes at a time, or 4 to 6 minutes total.

-Oh, wow.

Total?

-Total.

You know, it did fine with the creaming and with the whipping.

There are no restrictions there, but this is marketed toward serious bakers, who are likely to be doing a lot of doughs in there.

-Yeah.

-So we feel like these time restrictions and these speed restrictions, it's definitely an important consideration.

-Something to think about.

-Yep.

So, we are going to move on now to the Ankarsrum... -Mm-hmm.

-...which has been on sale in Europe since 1940.

-So, just last week.

-[ Chuckling ] Just last week.

So, you know, I think European bakers are going to be really familiar with the format of this one.

-Mm-hmm.

-Our American testers were kind of flummoxed by it at first, because it's such a different design.

-I mean, this setup almost makes it look like an ice cream machine.

-You're right.

It does.

The motor is underneath.

It's in the base.

And the bowl rotates on top of the motor.

-Mm-hmm.

-So there was a pretty steep learning curve for our American testers.

Fortunately, there are a ton of videos on YouTube.

Some of them are produced by Ankarsrum itself.

And once we got a couple of videos under our belt, we saw that this was, in fact, quite easy to use.

-Hmm.

-It's not hard to set up.

For instance, the controls -- there are only two knobs.

This one turns it on, and it sets a timer up to 12 minutes.

And this one adjusts the speed -- faster, slower.

So it's actually quite easy to use.

So, the Ankarsrum also proved itself to be plenty powerful.

It was really torquey.

It actually kneaded all of our doughs -- both of them, almost without effort.

-Really?

-Yeah.

It was really great.

And testers came to really appreciate the bowl design.

It's open at the top so you can add ingredients really easily.

-Yeah.

You can see into it really easily.

This one offers a lot of adjustability, in terms of kneading doughs that have different textures.

-Mm-hmm.

-You can use the dough hook, which is this thing here, for softer doughs, stickier doughs, higher-hydration doughs.

-Right.

-Or you can use the roller that's fitted in here right now for really stiff doughs.

And further, you can adjust the position of the arm within the bowl.

-Oh, wow.

-And you can also adjust the tension with which the roller rotates as it's kneading.

-A lot of options.

-There's a lot of adjustability.

Our testers were actually split on that.

The adjustability meant that they had a harder time sort of fine-tuning particular types of dough, and some of them really preferred the "one dough hook fits all" approach... -Sure, I can appreciate that.

-...of the KitchenAid.

But we think that for expert bakers who, you know, are really, really serious and want that customizability, it could be a real advantage.

One thing to note with the Ankarsrum is that there are a lot of bits and pieces to this machine.

You can see this is the 7-liter stainless-steel bowl.

Inside, you've got the dough roller and the dough scraper.

Then, you have a plastic Tritan bowl for whipping and creaming.

-Mm-hmm.

-You have a cover that fits on both bowls.

You've got the dough hook, the whipping whisks, you've got the creaming whisks that you can replace those with.

-[ Chuckles ] -That fit into the same piece.

You've got the post that's got to go in the center of this bowl for it to operate.

-[ Chuckling ] Okay.

-On top of that, you can buy extra attachments.

You can buy pasta rollers and sausage makers and grain flakers and all kinds of things... -Wow.

-...with both of these.

-Right.

But the point is, there's a lot to store.

[ Chuckling ] So you have to have the space for it.

-Where are you gonna put it?

-You got to have the space for it.

So, in the end, we actually chose the Ankarsrum as the winner.

-Hmm.

-It's a little less familiar to use.

-Right.

-There's a learning curve.

Once you get past the learning curve, which isn't hard, it's actually quite easy and convenient to use.

It's very capable, it's adjustable.

And if you want to check out a large-capacity stand mixer, we think it is well worth your attention.

-Well, you really can't go wrong with either of them, but the Ankarsrum is the new winner.

And it's the Ankarsrum Original 6230 7-liter stand mixer.

It's going to cost you $750, but if you're a serious baker, it's probably worth it.

Blueberry pancakes.

Sometimes they're nothing more than just a pancake with a few blueberries thrown in there.

But when blueberries are at their very best, you want a pancake that's going to heighten the flavor of those berries and stand up to them.

So, Becky's here, and she's got the king of all blueberry-pancake recipes.

-Deluxe blueberry pancakes.

-Deluxe, alright.

These pancakes are fluffy.

They have a flavor that's sweet, but interestingly so.

And we're going to fry them in lots of butter so they get a little bit crisp.

I know, so good.

-Sold.

-I also have a secret diner ingredient that I'm going to share with you that takes these pancakes to the next level.

So, we have 2 cups of all-purpose flour.

And here's my secret ingredient.

This is malted-milk powder.

-Ah.

-We have 3 tablespoons.

And it's comprised of a malted grain, usually barley, but sometimes wheat and nonfat dry milk.

And so this is often used in commercial pancake and waffle mixes.

-Right.

You hear malted waffle, malted pancake.

Makes sense.

-It gives this really complex toastiness to the pancakes.

-Yes.

-Kind of a lactic sweetness.

So, there's our secret ingredient.

-Alright.

-Going right in with that -- 3 tablespoons.

Then I have 2 tablespoons of sugar, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

So, let's whisk together those dry ingredients.

Now we'll do the wet ingredients.

I have 2 cups of buttermilk.

And this is going to give a nice tang to the pancakes, but it's also going to help to make them nice and airy.

That's because the acid in the buttermilk reacts with the alkaline baking soda.

-You add it to the dry ingredients.

-That's it.

Creates carbon dioxide, and you get these nice airy pancakes.

If you are a pancake person, keep buttermilk.

You can freeze it, even.

-Yeah.

Now, that was a game-changer for me when we found out that you can freeze buttermilk and pull it out later and use it in baking.

No more waste.

-That's right.

You always have it on hand.

So, 2 cups of buttermilk.

And then I have one egg we'll put in there.

And 3 tablespoons of melted butter, which is an upgrade from the oil that you see in a lot of pancake recipes.

-A lot more flavor.

-So, we'll just whisk that together.

Alright, now I'm going to make a little well.

This is kind of a fun part.

You just make this little place for the liquid ingredients.

Add that in.

I'm just going to whisk this together.

Alright, I'd say that's pretty good.

It's fine to leave a few lumps.

Those are going to sort themselves out as the batter hydrates a little bit.

-Nice.

-Okay, so, let's add the blueberries.

I have 1 1/2 cups of fresh blueberries.

This way, the blueberries are completely encased in the batter, so when you flip the pancakes over, there's no risk of them burning, because they're completely covered in batter.

So, our batter is ready to go.

We're going to fire up the griddle.

Then, we'll cook these.

-Exciting.

-Our griddle is set at 325 degrees.

-Okay.

-I have a tablespoon of butter.

-Got to spread that love around.

-That's right.

So, this is a 2-ounce portion scoop.

It makes portioning the pancakes really easy.

You can also use a 1/3-cup measuring cup.

-Okay.

-So, I'm going to kind of use a nice mounded scoop here.

And whoopsie, that always happens.

-That's alright.

-That's the cook's treat.

-[ Chuckles ] The dog's treat.

[ Both laugh ] -If the dog is good.

[ Chuckles ] -Right.

You can smell the malted milk with that browning butter, too.

-I know, you can.

Right?

So, I'm using the back of my scoop here, just to spread these out a little bit.

I want them to be about 4 1/2 inches in diameter.

-Okay.

-Should we got the ruler out?

I think I got pretty close.

See how I did here.

-That one's pretty close.

You getting the ruler out at 7: 30 in the morning?

-[ Chuckles ] I knew you were gonna say something about that.

-[ Chuckles ] -You can eyeball it if you want.

-Okay, whew.

-So, we're gonna let these go for 2 to 3 minutes.

We want them to get nice and golden brown on the underside.

We want them to just start to set at the edges.

-Lovely.

-So, it's been about 2 minutes.

Let's take a peek-see under here.

You always want to start with the first one that you put down on the griddle.

-Yeah.

-And we'll try and go in the same direction.

Ooh!

I like what I see.

-Oh, yeah?

-[ Chuckles ] -Oh, beautiful color.

-Yeah, gorgeous, right?

-Lacy.

-Yeah.

They're not going to be evenly round from edge to edge.

That's expected.

-Right.

-We're cooking in butter here.

So -- ooh!

-- we're just going to get some nice lightly crisp edges.

-That looks gorgeous.

-Yep.

So, we're gonna let these go for another minute.

-Just to set up and get a little color on that second side?

-That's right.

Okay, so, it's been about a minute.

Let's take a peek-see.

So, those are just nice and golden on the other side.

So, these are ready to go.

I have a wire rack.

And we can hold these in a 200-degree oven while we make batch number 2.

Alright.

Breakfast is served.

-Fantastic.

-Now, I don't know about you, but I like a nice stack.

-Yes, please.

-You want to stack it up, like three?

-Yeah, I guess, technically, three is a stack.

-Two is not enough.

I mean... -No!

-...we got to go three.

-That's -- That's a nice-looking... -Two just makes you wish you had one more.

-That's right.

How about a nice little pat... -Yes!

-...here on top?

Okay.

-Lovely.

-And I'll give you the maple syrup.

-Okay, great.

Flood.

We all have personal levels of maple syrup.

-Yeah, like, mine is a lot.

Here we go.

-You like some pancake with your maple syrup?

-[ Chuckles ] Just a little bit.

I mean, let's just take a moment here.

-This is beautiful.

-Do these look great?

-We're way past "great."

Big, juicy berry there.

-Mmm.

Mmm.

-I'm speechless, which is exactly what you want to be in the morning.

[ Chuckles ] -I mean, seriously, you can taste the butter, you can taste that malty, toasty, milky malt powder.

-There's a sweet nuttiness about it.

-Yeah.

-Oh, my gosh.

-The berries are gorgeous in there.

-The berries are beautiful and plump.

-Mm-hmm, and then you have those crispy edges from all that butter.

-The interior is meltingly tender.

-Mm-hmm.

-Then, you get that little fried edge there... -Mm-hmm.

-...the browned butter.

-So good.

-Oh, my gosh.

-We don't even have our coffee, and these are waking me up.

-Who needs coffee?

-This is all I need.

-What's a word for better than "deluxe"?

-[ Laughs ] -Super deluxe?

-Super deluxe, ultra deluxe?

-Best pancakes I've ever had.

-I have to agree.

-Thanks, Becky.

-You're welcome.

-You got to try these amazing pancakes.

And to do that, start with a dairy trifecta of malted milk powder, buttermilk, and melted butter.

Fold the blueberries directly into the batter, and then use more melted butter right on the griddle to cook the pancakes.

So, from "America's Test Kitchen," what might be the best pancakes you'll ever make -- deluxe blueberry pancakes.

And you can get this great recipe, and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes.

That's all on our website, americastestkitchen.com/TV.

Are they cold yet?

-[ Chuckles ] I don't even care.

[ Both laugh ] -True.

-Celebrate 25 years of "America's Test Kitchen," and visit our website anytime to access the newest season's full episodes, failproof recipes, and ingredient and equipment reviews at americastestkitchen.com/tv25.

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This collector's edition includes 500 game-changing recipes and techniques from all 25 seasons of "America's Test Kitchen."

The cost is $29.99.

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To order, head to our shop at americastestkitchen.com/25book.

"America's Test Kitchen" is brought to you by the following.

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Slow-churned, with 82% butterfat, for a smooth texture and more pliability for flaky crusts.

Plugr -- from professional kitchens to your home.

-On an American Cruise Lines journey along the legendary Mississippi River, travelers explore Civil War battlefields and historic riverside towns.

Aboard our fleet of American riverboats, you can experience local culture and cuisine and discover the music and history of the Mighty Mississippi.

American Cruise Lines -- proud sponsor of "America's Test Kitchen."

-The Breville+ app has over 1,300 guided recipes from culinary professionals, cook guides that help you turn what's in your fridge into quick meals, plus live and on-demand classes, all tested and tuned for your Breville appliance.