John McGivern’s Main Streets

– John McGivern: This Chicago suburb has the unofficial slogan "All roads lead here."

[bright music] - Announcer: Thanks to our underwriters.

- There's no place like Oconomowoc.

Explore, play, shop, stay!

Visit Oconomowoc!

- My father taught me that to make great bakery, you have to do it the right way.

O&H Danish Bakery, where kringle traditions begin.

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'Cause these are our Main Streets Somethin' 'bout a hometown speaks to me There's nowhere else I'd rather be The heart and soul of community's right here On these Main Streets [upbeat music] - I am in Elmhurst, Illinois, which is home to about 45,000 people.

And let me tell you, they are not kidding when they say that all roads lead to Elmhurst because we are in the middle of a major air, auto, and rail hub.

Elmhurst is about 16 miles straight west of downtown Chicago.

The borders are Interstate 290 and 294 on the north and east, and highways 38 and 83 on the south and west.

Train tracks for the Metra and Union Pacific Railroad run straight through the center of Elmhurst.

And don't forget about the planes.

Come on.

We are four miles south of O'Hare International Airport.

Trains, planes, and automobiles.

Come on, no reason not to visit Elmhurst.

Hi, Emmy.

– Emmy Fink: Hi, John.

- What can you tell me about the history of Elmhurst?

- Well, the history has a lot to do with those three most important things in real estate: Location, location, location.

[John chuckles] - Okay.

- So, the 1830s.

Imagine there was a lot of very open, very cheap land here.

And that brought a lot of Yankee and German settlers.

Let me tell you, the Germans, I married one.

They like a good deal.

- Oh, yeah.

- And then for years after, both languages were spoken here, English and German.

- By the sound of "Elmhurst," it sounds like the Germans won out naming the town.

- The "urst," the strong "urst," they did.

But what's funny is it had an English name before Elmhurst.

It was called Cottage Hill, and it was named after a stage stop and a tavern that was really a big part of this community's foundation.

Then they decided to put the railroad right in the middle of town.

– John: And what did that do for the town?

- It completely transformed it.

Every wealthy businessman said, "Gosh, I can avoid the hustle and bustle of the city, "and I can live here in this quiet suburb?

Yes, I wanna that."

One of the men was Thomas Bryan, and they called him the father of Elmhurst.

– John: The father?

How did he get that title?

– Emmy: He started a little place called Elmhurst University.

– John: Okay.

– Emmy: Then built the first Protestant church.

Then he had enough clout and enough success, he thought, "I could rename this town."

- Okay, I was waiting for that story.

- Right, that was about 30 years later, in the 1860s, he wanted to plant 1,000 elm trees and name it Elmhurst.

So, "Hurst" means "hill."

So, basically the name went from Cottage Hill to Elm Hill.

- So, "Elm-," English, "-Hurst," German.

It really kind of honors the German and English roots of this town.

– Emmy: Completely, right?

It was a great compromise.

- Yeah.

- And ever since then, the population has just increased every single decade.

- And this town is still thriving.

And I think we really need to check it out.

- That's what I think.

Let's go.

– Emmy: Let's go.

- Every community we ever cover, we get to town and people say, "Have you talked to...?"

"You know who you really need to talk to?"

"This is who needs to talk to you."

Well, this is Ken Bartels.

You're the man in this community that people say, "Have you talked to...?"

– Ken Bartels: John, welcome to Elmhurst.

– John: Thank you so much.

- It's a pleasure to have you.

- Why do people think we should talk to you?

- Well, I've been around here for a long time and I was born here.

But I like to think that Elmhurst is a really complete community.

We have world-class health care, very strong education, including Elmhurst University.

– John: Yeah.

– Ken: Multiple economic business venues, culture, a couple of museums, and just the people of the community just embrace all these things.

– John: Yeah.

– Ken: And kids grow up in Elmhurst.

They go away to school.

Then as soon as they can, they come back.

– John: Make their way home.

– Ken: With their wives or their kids or their families or whatever.

They come back because it's a good experience and they wanna continue it.

– John: Yeah.

- Elmhurst also is the spot on the West Line where there's no stops between Elmhurst and the Loop.

– John: Wow.

– Ken: So, you can get downtown in 22 minutes.

– John: So great.

– Ken: It's part of why people wanna live here.

There is this blend.

– John: Thanks for talking.

– Ken: You bet, thank you.

- Yeah, you did great.

- I bet you didn't know that Elmhurst University used to be a German evangelical seminary for young men, did you?

It was founded in 1871.

All the classes were taught in German.

And that very first year, they had 14 students.

All of their food, they grew on the campus farm.

Isn't this crazy?

Well, a lot has changed since then, but anyone can be an Elmhurst Bluejay now, and it is one of the most beautiful, highly rated universities around and a great place to take a stroll.

– John: We're at Rough Edges Confectionery.

Let's talk about your location, 'cause you couldn't be any more central in this community.

– Kai Sison MacNicol: Yes, this is a wonderful location.

– John: This is kind of Main Street of the town.

And the train is right there.

'Cause you're inside, the restaurant is...?

– Kai: Two Brothers From Italy.

– John: Two Brothers From Italy.

– Kai: So, it's like, you really have to know us to find us.

Like, "Where are they?"

So, once people figure out where we are, they're usually pretty good with coming back.

Right now, we're gonna do some cinnamon rolls.

- Somebody can go home.

[Kai laughs] Working.

Let's talk about how this place happened for you.

- I mean, this is one of the good things that came out of the pandemic.

It's all in the hands.

And I think it's all in looking to see how much sugar and how much cinnamon you have on there.

There's no measurement to that.

– John: There isn't.

– Kai: There isn't 'cause I started baking, baking a ton and then posting them, and people just started coming and buying.

- Coming to your back door.

- Coming to my backyard.

- To your backyard.

- Backyard.

- To buy what you'd made in your kitchen.

- Yes, yes.

– John: Yeah.

– Kai: There we go, got our cinnamon.

So, I outgrew my kitchen pretty quickly.

I'm rolling it.

- 'Cause that's a cinnamon roll!

– Kai: So, I went to banks.

Banks said no.

But this ad keeps popping up called Honeycomb Credit.

It's a crowdfunding investment site, so I put it out on Friday at midnight, and by Monday afternoon we were done and funded.

- That'll grow into this?

- Yes.

- When it's grown up, this is it?

- [laughs] Yes.

And 90% of our investors are from the town of Elmhurst.

– John: Yeah.

It's nice and warm.

– Kai: I know!

– John: Oh, my lord.

It speaks to community, too, doesn't it?

- It speaks to the community.

I mean, the woman that rings me up at the gym, that it-- was one of my first investors.

– John: Yeah.

– Kai: Are you doing everything bagel?

– Worker: Yeah, we are.

– Kai: And it's always a teaching thing here.

– John: Yeah.

– Kai: Because, you know, when you-- - John: You have a young crew.

– Kai: I have a very young crew.

- This is chocolate chip with Biscoff in it, so it's like a cookie inside of a cookie.

– Kai: But their hearts are so big.

– John: Nice.

– Kai: Yes.

– John: And they can bake, can't they?

- And they can bake.

Now, they can.

When they started here, I was like, "Oh!"

– John: "Help me!"

[both laugh] The recipes that come out of here on a daily basis, are they yours?

Are they your family's?

– Kai: They are mine.

– John: Your background is Filipino.

- My background's Filipino.

- Is there influence of Filipino things here as well?

– Kai: A lot.

We are known for all of our purple things.

- What does that mean?

Your purple things?

- So, we do, we use ube, which is a purple yam.

We use it a lot in the Philippines as dessert.

So, we make it here.

We put it in our cookies.

– John: This is the ube.

– Kai: It's called a Chunker Cookie.

– John: This is the ube brownie.

– Kai: Yeah.

It's like a cousin of a sweet potato.

- Again, delicious.

[muffled] You want a little?

- [laughs] It's all yours.

– John: It's a great story.

Congratulations.

– Kai: Thank you.

– John: Yeah.

People who live in Elmhurst, they know ways to go around getting stuck waiting for a train.

Do you have any idea how many trains go through the center of Elmhurst on a daily basis?

No, more than that.

More than that.

Almost!

[playful music] - 100 to 150 trains roll through Elmhurst every single day.

If you're a train spotter, that's great.

You found your place.

If you're an audio engineer, not so much.

[Gail sighs] - We're at Brewpoint Coffee, and this is your shop.

– Melissa Garcia Villanueva: Yes, it is.

– John: You were looking for an espresso machine, and this is what you ended up with.

- Yes.

- How did that happen?

- So, 11 years ago, as of September 2, found this coffee shop on Craigslist while looking for an espresso machine.

Told my six-month boyfriend that I found it.

We bought it within a month and we started it together.

I joked that it was like my engagement ring.

– John: Lovely.

- Yes.

We got engaged two months in.

Got married four months after that.

- Nice.

- That was 11 years ago.

And now, I have three coffee shops.

I have a coffee manufacturing business, and we have an event space.

- And was coffee a part of your life before that?

– Nya Arce: So, this is our Borealis.

– John: We're each gonna have a little taste.

There we go.

Oh, my God, look at that.

– Melissa: I had worked at Starbucks as a barista in high school.

– John: Borealis, yes.

- Cheers, there we go.

- Borealis.

– John: Thanks.

– Melissa: And when I looked back on my life of things I enjoyed most, it really was being a barista because it's all about building community.

It's like the relationships you get to build day by day because people love to come in every day.

– John: The coffee business, where is it sourced?

Do you know the people who grow it?

Like, where do you get it from?

How does it work?

– Melissa: So, this is something I'm really proud of, right?

So, we work with Marianella Baez Jost.

She's from Costa Rica, so we met her when we started Brewpoint.

And she's like, "I own a coffee farm in Costa Rica.

"I'm gonna figure out how to get it here.

And we'd love it if you bought it from us."

And so, we built a relationship with her, but not just her.

She essentially built a co-op of farmers in Costa Rica to make a woman-owned supply chain that we work directly with.

And so, it is a majority of our coffee.

And it's also our most popular coffee blend, the Acrobat.

And yes, we've visited Costa Rica.

We've learned about their farming practices and essentially how, if we can cut out a couple of different middlemen, then they can have a sustainable living.

- Is that part of mission for you?

Does this coffee business have a mission that you try to stand by, and what is it?

- So, at the end of the day, we have creative drinks to inspire creative endeavors, right?

But it's not just endeavors, it's world-changing endeavors.

– Nya: This is our iced Poetry & Prose.

It's probably our second-best seller.

It's a little less sweet than the Borealis, and it's been described as kind of like an elevated vanilla latte.

– John: Poetry and... - Yep, prose.

- ...Prose.

– Melissa: And we wanna be able to figure out how to build an ecosystem that reflects our values.

So, when I think about being a business owner, I think about it as a system.

You know, profit is one piece of it.

But how do you make it something that, like, just reflects the world you wanna be a part of?

And so, the more I can know about the whole supply chain, how farmers are impacted, how things get to us, and how do you roast, all those different pieces.

By no means is it perfect, but it's been such an amazing ride.

- Thank you.

[glasses clink] [bright music] It's always dry in Schiller Court.

You know what makes it dry?

Public art.

Umbrella Sky, Elmhurst.

I haven't counted how many umbrellas are up there, but it's gotta be as many as trains that come through this town on a daily basis.

- I found a great place that anyone can come and play, no matter your age.

We are at Halfway House Indoor Golf.

Now, I'm a golfer.

I usually play nine holes, so I had never heard of the term "halfway house," which is a building between the 9th and 10th hole, halfway between the round of 18.

Makes sense, right?

Well, there's so much to do here.

They have over 130 golf courses that you can play on their simulators.

They have football, they have soccer, they have zombie dodgeball.

I mean, why not?

If this is bad, it's because I have no golf shoes on and no golf glove.

155.

I can do better.

All right, here we go!

193!

[upbeat electronic music] Oh.

[sighs] I'm exhausted.

My work here is done.

– Jim Zay: And a lot of people really don't realize that we got these two big holes in the ground that take stormwater when we need it.

- Well, let's talk about this.

First of all, we're standing in front of this huge pit.

- Pit.

- Yeah.

A hole that used to be what?

- Used to be Elmhurst-Chicago quarry.

- It was a quarry.

- Was a quarry.

They were mining limestone out of it a lot of times.

And back-- The county board, before I got there, back in 1992, we had devastating floodings throughout DuPage County, especially in the eastern side, all over Salt Creek.

Decided to buy the quarry from Elmhurst-Chicago.

There's two lobes here.

There's a west lobe and an east lobe.

To bring that much water in, you needed obviously, a large facility.

– John: Yeah.

– Jim: And for us to build one now, one of these days, would be probably $60 million to $80 million just to find the land and do something that deep.

Not worry about groundwater and everything like that.

- So, you got a deal?

- We got a deal, but we also spent $28 million to build this facility.

- I bet you did.

Why did you wanna bring me here?

What's going on here?

– Sarah Hunn: So, this is our intake.

Back behind us is Salt Creek, and it's pretty simple how it works.

Life works by gravity.

We're not gonna fight Mother Nature.

We're not gonna fight gravity.

Let's make it work.

So, as Salt Creek rises, we watch cameras and gauges and make sure it's safe to open.

And then, we open a gate and floodwater pours in here.

– John: That's wild.

And it's not even open that far.

Look at that.

- It goes through underneath Route 83 and makes its way into the quarry.

Just take a lean down.

[water rushes] And that's the water.

- It was really unique because using a quarry for stormwater really wasn't thought of back then.

– John: Yeah.

– Jim: But it was, you know, that was what was needed.

I mean, people back in the old days just built houses wherever.

As things got more developed in DuPage County, and especially along Salt Creek, houses were flooding, businesses were flooding.

And so, it was really causing a problem.

– Sarah: So, we had that gate open for 20 minutes, maybe, on the other side.

– John: Yeah.

– Sarah: This is the flow of the water.

This is how water gets in.

It flows through this channel.

– John: Nothing's happening.

– Sarah: And nothing's happening.

That's how that's how little of an amount we were taking in.

– Jim: We usually operate it two, three times a year, at least, some more, I mean, than we used to.

– John: And sometimes never, which would be great.

– Jim: Which is always good.

– John: Yeah.

– Sarah: Right now, it's about 10 feet deep.

It holds another 190 feet.

It holds 200 feet of water.

- Once the flooding goes down on Salt Creek, we start pumping the water back.

So, the last time it filled to the top, it took us three months to pump it back out.

- 2.7 billion.

- 2.7 billion gallons of water would fill this place?

- That's what it would take to fill this place.

- And it's almost been full a few times.

- It's almost been full.

The first time it was almost full was in September 2008.

And if you're looking up in that keyway... - Yeah.

- ...for reference, water was two-thirds of the way to the top from that keyway.

– Jim: It's just not Elmhurst.

I mean, we take water in, like take water in for Villa Park, you know, for Oak Brook, Oak Brook Terrace, you know, all the way down south.

I mean, Salt Creek goes all the way down, you know, through DuPage and goes back into Cook County.

So, this has a big effect in the area.

- Have you ever heard the term "rail to trail?"

It's when they take an old decommissioned rail line and turn it into a bike or a walking trail.

This is the first one ever proposed in the United States, right here in Elmhurst.

It's called the Illinois Prairie Path.

I grew up real close to the Milwaukee River.

Next to the Milwaukee River was the railroad tracks.

And as a kid, my dad would say, "Stay away from the railroad tracks!"

Now, it's called the Oak Leaf Trail.

And every time I'm on there on my bike, I think, "Dad, look at me now."

- How adorable is this one-room schoolhouse?

Kids have been learning in this schoolhouse since before the Civil War.

It's the Churchville Schoolhouse.

It is one of the last few historic schoolhouses to still be in its original location in Illinois.

Just think, grades first through eighth were all in this room.

The little kids sat over there in the little desk, the bigger kids over here.

The Elmhurst History Museum runs this now, so kids and schools can come here for a field trip and get an idea of what school was like back in the day.

Today's lesson?

Cursive.

And I'm gonna send my kids here because I don't even think they teach cursive anymore.

They're gonna come to Churchville Schoolhouse.

– John: The highways we drive on come out of there?

– Charlie Bromann: Absolutely.

– John: They do?

- Oh, yeah, we do everything from, you know, your sidewalks, your backyard patios, to, you know, to all highway systems that are nearby.

– John: Talk to me exactly, what is concrete?

What are the elements that make concrete?

– Jeff Brown: Right, so a lot of people interchange the words "cement" and "concrete."

– John: Oh, it's not the same?

– Jeff: They're not the same.

So, what you're seeing coming out of the truck is ready-mix concrete.

That's the finished product that you use to build with.

It's crushed stone.

In the Chicago area, it's crushed limestone.

That's the natural stone that we have here.

Sand, water, and then, the binding agent that makes all the chemistry happen when it interacts with water is the cement.

So, in a ready-mix concrete batch plant, those are the raw materials that are brought to the plant, mixed according to the specification, and loaded into the truck.

– John: Is what comes out of here the same every day?

And has it been like that forever?

– Jeff: You'd be shocked how many variations of concrete exist.

Sometimes, it'll be the same concrete two loads in a row, but oftentimes you're gonna have concrete with different mix designs, with different formulations, with different raw materials, different proportions of those materials.

So, it performs a different way depending on what the customer's job is and what they need the concrete to do.

That plant will mix the right proportions of raw materials to deliver that specific mix design.

– John: So, one concrete is not another concrete.

It's based on purpose.

And all of that concrete comes out of here?

- Yeah, in these modern batch plants, even though this batch plant was put up in the late '40s, the technology inside of it is state of the art.

– John: It is?

– Charlie: Innovation continues.

It's such a big industry, and we're super fortunate to be a part of it and kind of continue a lot of these, you know, quality innovations and see it all through.

– John: And the deepest roots in this community of Elmhurst.

– Charlie: You know, one of the oldest companies in Elmhurst.

– John: In Elmhurst.

– Charlie: Still with the original family since 1883.

It's been in its current configuration, really, since the '40s is kind of when ready-mix concrete took off.

– John: Yeah, how many trucks come in and out of here a day?

Is there a number?

– Jeff: It varies quite a bit.

It's an important plant.

It's an important plant.

[John laughs] - Charlie: Hundreds.

- A lot!

[all laugh] You touch all our lives right here.

– Jeff: Absolutely, yeah.

This is where it all starts.

This is right where it all starts, that's right.

– John: Yeah.

It seems like the Chicago suburbs attract bright minds, and Elmhurst is no different.

Can you name the famous poet and writer that lived here in the early part of the 20th century?

Okay, I'll give you a hint.

He won a Pulitzer Prize for his biography of another famous person who lived in Illinois.

Good hint, huh?

[playful music] - Emmy: Now, even though I am the show historian, it's not very often I go into the history museums in the communities we visit.

But the Elmhurst History Museum is so well done, we had to stop by.

Carl Sandburg, probably the most famous person to ever live here in Elmhurst.

He won a Pulitzer Prize for his biography on Abe Lincoln, and then he won another one for his poetry work.

I wonder if there's a Pulitzer Prize for people that do Midwest blurbs on a travel show.

- How many art museums have you been to that have an entire house as an exhibit?

This is the McCormick House.

It was designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who is known as the pioneer of modern architecture.

He built this in 1952 for a prominent Chicago businessman and his wife, and then it was moved here to the art museum in the early 1990s.

His philosophy was less is more.

I guess he didn't think less is more with windows 'cause it's all about the windows.

Yeah, so you had to make sure that you didn't live next to a nosy neighbor, I guess.

The McCormick House.

Emmy, what do people complain, crab about in the Chicago area?

- Oh, traffic of course, parking.

- Parking mostly.

- Yes.

- Don't you think?

- Yes.

- So, what do we need?

- Well, we need the Explore Elmhurst Trolley.

- It's the solution.

- Come with us!

- Okay.

– Emmy: I think they're here just for us.

Hello, good morning!

– Krystal Loggins: Happy Friday!

– John: So, this is just Friday and Saturday?

– Krystal: Yes.

– Emmy: Yep.

In the summer.

– John: From 12:00 to 12:00?

– Krystal: Yes.

- How long has this Elmhurst trolley been going?

– Krystal: I wanna say five years.

– John: And can people just get off and get back on whenever they want?

- Yes, at each stop.

– John: At each stop?

- Yes.

– John: How many stops are on Trolley Trail?

– Krystal: It's a total of six stops.

– John: Six, and our next stop will be which stop?

– Krystal: Downtown Elmhurst.

– John: Downtown Elmhurst.

- I feel like I'm in a, like, Mister Rogers or a Daniel Tiger neighborhood because they ride the trolley everywhere.

– John: Right.

– Emmy: Yeah.

– John: So, they do it over the course of the summer, and then they bring it back over the holidays?

– Krystal: Yes.

– Emmy: The best part is this is free.

– John: It's free.

- Yes, it's free.

– Emmy: How much fun is that?

- And how long is the whole route?

- Well, if it's not too many people at the stop, the total route goes about 25 minutes total.

– John: 25 minutes.

- I would think if you're, like, visiting here, you'd wanna hop on here first and then kind of get the lay of the land and figure out, okay, oh, that looks cute.

That looks like a good place, right?

– John: Or just depend on this for your visit.

– Emmy: Well, that too.

How lucky are we?

The trolley stops here at Phase Three Brewing.

– John: It's like a magnet.

– Grace Culp: Hi, guys, how we doing?

- Good.

- I think we need a flight.

Right, we need to try them all.

– Grace: This one's got blood orange and calamansi in it.

Calamansi is a citrus fruit, kind of like a lime.

- And then, the big bad something is waiting for us.

- Oh, yeah, big bad stout.

This is our planifolia.

It's a barrel-aged stout, is aged for 20 months in some bourbon barrels.

- Mm!

– Grace: A little bit of marshmallow on the back end.

- That is dessert in a glass.

- It is dessert in a glass.

- Oh, wow.

– Evan Morris: So, over here, we have the Smoky Ghost.

It's our spiciest burger that we make.

– Emmy: Has it hit you?

- It's a little hot!

– Evan: Definitely a top seller here.

It's really, really fun.

- Building.

Oh, yeah, that's one sneaky, scary ghost.

It's delicious.

- Sometimes, you come to a place on the show where it's kind of like, wow, this is way too easy.

It's called Hamburger Heaven.

Built in 1948.

It's home of the original double-decker burger.

Two all-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame seed bun.

It's the original.

[upbeat music] So, at the beginning of this episode, I said that the unofficial slogan of Elmhurst is that "All roads lead here."

And I'm really glad that they do, because this is a beautiful city.

- It must be heavenly for Chicago commuters, right?

- Talking about commuters, do you think that Krystal would put us in the trolley and take us back to Milwaukee?

- It could be the seventh or the eighth stop, I think.

I think she liked us.

- We need to ask her.

- Hey, Krystal!

- Krystal!

There's nowhere else I'd rather be The heart and soul of community's right here - And Helmhurst is no different.

Helmhurst?

- Back in the day-- That didn't make sense.

What was school like?

This is gonna be a good one, folks.

Here we go.

- As popula-- popular-- Oh!

- They're required... I'm just making this up, and I'm-- Yes, here we go.

- Okay, here we go.

[claps] Here we go.

[claps] Oh, yeah, okay.

I was bad.

You want it, man?

[laughs] - How do we look?

[both laugh] - Lois: They're either just sitting down on the job or anything for a shot.

Which one is it?

- And I've got too much to look at.

I'm sorry, I can't stay.

- There is-- Oh, that was, that-- Did that sound right?

That was a good one.

– Lois: Perfect!

– Announcer: Thanks to our underwriters.

- There's no place like Oconomowoc.

Explore, play, shop, stay!

Visit Oconomowoc!

- My father taught me that to make great bakery, you have to do it the right way.

O&H Danish Bakery, where kringle traditions begin.

– Announcer: Together, doing good for 130 years.

Horicon Bank: It's the natural choice for community banking.

- Support for this program provided by Plum Media.

From first spark to final edit, it's all about bringing stories to life with purpose and precision.

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– Announcer 2: Thank you for watching.

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- This is the McCormick House.

It wa-- Oh, the sun.

[crew groans] That is not a good sign.

I quit.