Sewing With Nancy

I like to sew, but I really don't have the time. That's one of the most common comments I hear from you, our viewers. I often have the same sentiments. To change the way you look at the sewing process I decided to design projects that are cut from fabric rectangles and squares streamlining the sewing without compromising the look. The travel trio, a weekender tote, cosmetic bag and luggage saddle bag are all made using comparable sewing steps straight stitching, plus double sided fabric. "Sew Simple with Rectangles and Squares" that's what's next on Sewing with Nancy. Sewing with Nancy TV's longest-airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman is made possible by Baby Lock, a complete line of sewing, quilting and embroidery machines and sergers. Baby Lock, for the love of sewing. Madeira, specializing in embroidery, quilting and special-effect threads because creativity is never black and white. Koala Studios fine sewing furniture custom-built in America. Clover, making a difference in sewing, quilting, crafting, and needle arts for over 30 years. Amazing Designs and Klass needles. When planning this TV program I decided to make projects that started very simple and each technique I showed you would be applied to the next project. We're starting with something basic, the cosmetic bag. In this cosmetic bag we have a specialty zipper put in, with special stops so you don't have that bump at the end of the zipper. There's a pocket and a very easy gusset to place in this cosmetic bag so lots of cosmetics can be filled in this area. It may seem simple, but that's what this program is all about. Double sided fabric is what we're working with and cutting rectangles from the shapes. 13" x 20" is the bag size with a pocket that's 13" x 6". You're going to cut one each. You see I have the grain lines along the pocket. Double sided fabric is quilted usually with a small print on one side and a larger print on the other with the batting between. The quilting is done in a diamond shape. The lengthwise grain is where the elongation of the diamond is so you want to make sure that you're cutting it with the correct grain line. Simple, fast. Just these two rectangles of fabric. Then we're going to be using a lot of ribbon 5/8" grosgrain ribbon. Get it to coordinate and complement your fabric. You'll see it used several times throughout the day. So for this pocket, 1/2" seam allowances work out well for the pocket. We just press up the hem of the pocket. Press under the top of the pocket. Then, place grosgrain ribbon across this edge. After you have stitched it straight down then sew along the lower edge of the pocket. It's pre-shaped. It has lining on it because it's double faced. And it's now ready to place on the cosmetic bag. So, you have the pocket created. I'm just going to measure down 2". It can't be much simpler than that. Measure down 2". You'd stitch around the sides, the lower hem and the other side. Presto, once that's done, the project's completed. In my next sample, and my life is in samples you'll see another pocket that has been placed on. Then we need these little tabs on the side. I used a different grosgrain ribbon and folded the little pieces in half. You measure, or you eyeball, which I'm doing right now a half of an inch above the pocket. Place the ribbon as pull tabs. It makes it easier to open up the bag. You can just baste those down or pin them into place. Now we're going to work with the zipper. I'm going to spend some time on the zipper because it's going to be used in the weekender tote as well as the luggage saddle bag. You can buy zippers that are the right size a 14" zipper would be perfect. Or, zippers on a roll, where they have multiple tabs so you can just cut the length that you need. That's what I used for this project. When you cut out the zipper make sure that you pin or bar tack at the end so that you're not going to pull that tab off of the zipper tape itself. I'm going to place the zipper along the top edge. Then the ends are going to be covered with fabric. Let's just take a close-up look at what I'm talking about. Rather than the zipper tape going all the way to the end there's fabric in this area so that when you're sewing the seam you're not going over the zipper key you're going over fabric. It makes it so much faster to do and you don't have a little lump at the end of the zipper. This program is called "Sew Simple with Rectangles and Squares" so you can now cut three-inch squares of the leftover fabric. This is leftover from the quilted fabric. We just clipped between the layers to separate them. We only need a single layer of fabric. Place the zipper down so that the tab is down. Then you're going to place the piece of fabric let me put it right side up adjacent to the edge of the fabric of the cosmetic tote. Then, you wrap it around the end and pin. You do the same on the other side. I have a contrasting color here. Wrap it around the edge and pin. The great thing comes next. And that is, we're going to use a pin and a one-inch mark. Mark with a pin or a marking pen one inch from the edge and sew through all the layers. It's just a quick way of measuring. On this sample, I've done that stitching. Then cut, trim off the excess tape. There you have the zipper end. You'd do the same on the other zipper. This allows the zipper to fit perfectly in this length. Now you meet right sides together the right side of the zipper to the right side of the top of the cosmetic bag and stitch. Here you can see that I'm sewing that edge sewing it. Then if you'd like, you can topstitch it down. Here we have it topstitched into place. Do the same thing on the other side. Meet the top of the zipper to the top of the case and stitch with a 1/4" seam. Now we're going to center the zipper. I have the zipper open. We center it at the top and sew the side seams. As I lay this down you'll see that the side seam has been stitched on this side. Then find that pocket, wherever that pocket is. I can feel it right there. Just fold up the edge and stitch in the gusset. That's the gusset. just stitch it down just by folding it up to meet the pocket. When you turn it right side out, ta-dah! You have a cosmetic bag with a zipper specially made, a pocket, and gusset. Now that you know how to make a cosmetic bag apply many of the same sewing steps to create a weekender tote. It's a super-size bag with an addition of sturdy straps and double pockets. When we take a look at the two bags obviously, they're from the same fabrics. But there are many comparable techniques. The zipper along the top is made in the same manner as the cosmetic bag. We have a pull tab; there are pockets. The gussets are done in the same manner only different sizes, of course. The main change is going to be the strap this continuous strap that goes around the bag and along the bottom to make it sturdy and for easy carrying. It's a fun project to make much like the cosmetic bag. So we'll need the same type of fabric the double-sided quilted fabric 1-1/8 yard, to make this bag 23" x 39" is the measurement of the bag. Two pockets are cut, 8" x 11". So those are the rectangles. Left from the yardage of fabric we'll have lengthwise fabric cut three two-inch strips. This is going to be for the straps three two-inch strips from the 1-1/8 yard of fabric. I already showed you how to work with the pocket so you're going to make the pocket in the same manner as I detailed earlier folding under the top edge and adding ribbon and then pressing under the lower edge. Both pockets are placed 5" down from the top. I placed a pin at the center mark. I folded it in half. Mark the center of the pocket. Mark the center of the bag. Then just line those two up 5" down. You'd sew along the bottom and the sides of course leaving the top open. This was made in just the same manner as the initial pocket. You'd place another pocket at the opposite end. After sewing on both pockets, ta-dah! We have it already done here. We're going to make the straps. These straps are going to be separated the fabrics separated removing the batting. You can save the lower layer for another project. Then seam the separated fabrics end to end. You're going to sew this together end to end so that you have one continuous strip. It measures approximately 120". You don't have to be exact on this just approximately, as I mentioned. So, you've sewn them into continuous strips. Then add interfacing or a strap interfacing. This one is perforated. I've already started pressing it to the wrong side of the fabric. As I reach the starting point I just overlap some of the interfacing. Then press along the perforations. It easily presses. Or, if you used traditional interfacing just measure so that you have a one-inch finished strip. Fold the ends to the middle is basically what's going to happen. Now you have one big circle of a strap. We're going to need ribbon. Let me just show you on the bag what's needed. You want some nice finish to the strap on the inside. You cover those raw edges with ribbon. But rather than attaching the ribbon all the way around you don't need the bulk where it's attached to the bag you just need it in the handle area. So to accomplish this, fold your strap in half and place a pin mark at each half mark. So what I did, this is a long strap so I just folded it in half and marked the pins. Then cut two lengths of ribbon that are 33" each. Also, mark a pin mark at the center. Place the two centers together and then edgestitch the ribbon to the strap. Here's just a close up of the straight stitching stitch on both sides of the ribbon to attach it to the strap. So you have the ribbon at each end. Then I've marked it in another quarter mark. I fold it in half, in half again and place two more pins. This will help me in the placement of the strap on the bag. So, here we have the bag. You need to mark the center of this bag so we fold it in half. There's a lot of folding and marking. Place a pin mark at this area. Then, the quarter mark, without the ribbon is going to be placed adjacent to the center mark. I'm just kind of approximating right now. Line these two marks up, the center and the quarter mark. Then you do the same on the other side. You have to make certain that you're not going to twist this strap around so it's lying flat. Again, you'd pin the two down, so I have a strap let me raise this up. The strap is going on either side of the pocket. You'll find, in the instructions that I have this measured 7" from the side. So, exactly 7" from the side is where that strap would go. You topstitch this down. Here's a close up of topstitching around the edges. You stitch until one inch above the pocket. We have the strap attached all the way around to give it security. Then you attach the ribbon. You create the gusset in the same way folding it up to meet the pocket and you have a weekender tote. For ease of travel, make a saddle bag for your carry-on luggage or rolling case. Two sizes of bags are attached together with connector straps. When not using this handy accessory on your luggage zip the bags together and it's a handy shoulder tote. Now we're progressing. Changing the cosmetic bag, making the sizes slightly different but yet there are some similarities. On the luggage saddle bag there are zippers and there are pull tabs. But the zipper, as on the cosmetic bag is recessed slightly. It's placed down so that you can access it much more readily. The connector straps connect the larger bag in the front to the smaller bag in the back. The bag in the bag is smaller or shorter so that when you're using it, it doesn't drag on the floor. The shoulder strap is connected at the connector strap so sometimes I call them bridges between the two pieces. When you take this off, there's one large zipper a heavy duty zipper at the top that you just zip closed. I'll zip it partially closed. Then it becomes a shoulder bag. I think this is a fun way of creating an accessory as I mentioned earlier and it's not very difficult to do at all. This is called "Sew Simple with rectangles and Squares." We're using more rectangles than squares in this program. But the shapes for the two bags a pocket that's 13" x 6" on the smaller bag that's 13" by 24". The larger bag, we have a small pocket and a longer bag, 13" x 30". If you had a larger tote you can make both bags the same size. It's totally up to you. Placing the pocket on, inserting he zipper working with the little tabs, it's the same process. But this time, as I showed you you're not going to have the zipper at the top. It's going to be recessed by two inches. Measure down two inches, or up two inches from the zipper and then place pins in this area. The little tabs on the sides can go right across from the zipper or right on the zipper area, because that will make it easier when you're unzipping and zipping to pull on these little tabs. Turn this unit right sides together. Here's my unit that has been stitched along the side. Take a close look at this tab that's been added to the zipper. The zipper teeth are out of this area so that when you're serging or sewing you're not going to go through that bulk of the zipper. That's a good reason to add that little accent to the piece. besides, it looks nice. Then after you stitch the seam then fold up the lower edge to create the zipper finding the edge of the pocket. You can't really see it, but you can certainly feel it. Then restitch that seam. You're going to make two bags in the same manner but they're going to be different sizes. Let me turn this correctly, there we go. Then when you sew those side seams make sure you keep the zipper open. You only do that once because you can't get in it very easily if you have the zipper closed when you try to turn it right side out. There we go, I'm just going to get it turned. You can see how this looks. Let me try to get the points out. Whoops, I'm missing my tool the tool to get the points out. There we go. So, you have two bags, different sizes and now to connect them together. Here's my larger bag and my smaller bag. They'll be marked in the same manner folded in half at the top, and place a pin. You need the center marks. Then you're going to use instead of just a dressmaker's zipper or standard zipper use a separating zipper for coats. It's 24" long. We added ribbon at the ends to make it look nice and also to keep the tape together at the opened end. This zipper also has a marking at the center. We folded it in half and placed the mark. I kind of liken the assembly of this to making a bookshelf. It's very basic, you stack things together. It goes together quite easily. It's very visual. The connector straps are what's needed next. They're 2" x 6" strips of fabric that have the interfacing pressed. You fold along the perforations and then stitch along the edges. Here's a D-ring that I use. Here you can see, to keep that D-ring in place I'm stitching along the edge, close to the D-ring. Now, here's the connector strap. I pull off a little basting tape that I had double sided basting tape and place the connector strap 3-1/2" from the center. I had the pins already placed there. Place them in that area. Then the zipper, matching the center point gets tucked down. All these layers are going to be stitched together the zipper, the connecting strap. Here's a close up of topstitching the layers. Stitch securely at each end. I usually do two rows of topstitching. You add the back of the bag in the same manner, by centering the connectors sewing across the top and then adding a shoulder strap. Lola Jenkins, thread artist is today's Nancy's Corner guest. She's been quoted as saying, "I don't know the rules, so I can't break the rules of quilting." With that free spirit approach she creates amazing fabric art with raw-edge appliqu. Please welcome Lola Jenkins from Oklahoma City. She joins us via Skype. Hello, Nancy, thank you. Good to see you again in person, via Skype. Tell our viewers about your amazing artwork that you started doing not that long ago. Tell us when you started. Well, I actually started in 2004 but I did very little. I didn't do that much, five or six. It was in 2007 that I decided to get serious about it. And serious you are! I'd like to start by showing our viewers your college portrait of yourself, I assume. There's an amazing realism in your quilt. You used raw-edge appliqu, correct? Yes, I did. I love raw edge. It's an easy way to go. You start with a photograph. Explain the process that you use. I usually start with a photograph. Once I get the photograph, I use some type of software manipulation program in order to be able to get it posterized. Then, I blow it up the size that I want it. I lay it on top of a light box and I trace the image to the fabric. From there, I just cut out pieces. What I find so amazing about your quilts is that the hues of fabric even though they're not-- you wouldn't see them in real life it looks so real when you look at the image. For example, this image of Malcolm X you have a variety of colors in the hair, skin, eyes, shirt and the fabrics, some are prints and some are solids. Your artwork is phenomenal, is what I'm trying to say. Thank you very much. I like doing realistic portraits without using realistic skin tone fabrics. I believe that it gives it a whole lot more interest. It has a lot of energy. In addition, you use some free motion quilting sometimes very specific and sometimes very random. Yes, I do. The majority of time, I'm random. I start of with an idea when I start quilting. And just whatever happens at the moment happens and I just go for it. Sometimes I do overkill or overdrive and sometimes I just do a little like a stitch in a ditch, type of thing. Sure. Well, I like your overdrive analogy. The next quilt, "Many Faces" you have an interesting story about that quilt. This is the face of just one individual but in many different poses. Yes, it is. The idea that I came up with is, we never really get to know someone even though we think we know them. So, this is what happens they have many different faces. So, I take one individual and I did them in a whole bunch of different colors to represent the many faces that we put on before others. I love the way that they're overlapping and intertwined. It's such a pleasure to look at and study the faces on them. When we talked earlier, you shared with me that you learned something from a landscape quilting show that Natalie Sewell and I did many years ago. Do you want to share that with our viewers too? Absolutely. I learned that you can get a variety of quilting tools from Office Depot! One of those tools is Wite-Out. I love the Wite-Out pen! I use it for everything. I use it for eyes, shadows or highlights. I have used it for the teeth. I've used it for lips. I've used it for arms and other places in portraits in order for me to get a highlight or shadow effect. A little dab of Wite-Out really works well on fabric. And I know personally, it stays there for a long time. Yes. You're an amazing artist. The variety of fabrics that you include in each piece from prints, to solids, to batiks that's your palette, correct? Yes, it is. I believe in using a whole bunch of different fabrics. I use the fabric the way most painters use paint. The fabric is my paint. Well, Lola, don't quit. Just keep sending me images and maybe we'll have you back to show your new creations. Thank you for joining us. Thank you for inviting me. I'll look forward to coming back. If you'd like more information about Lola Jenkins' artwork please go to our website, nancyzieman.com and click under Nancy's Corner. You'll find information on Lola and all our other guests. Also at nancyzieman.com, you can watch 52 of the most current Sewing with Nancy programs and Nancy's Corner interviews. Thanks for joining us today. Bye for now. Nancy has written a fully-illustrated book entitled "Sew Simple with Rectangles and Squares" that includes all the information from this three-part series. 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sewingwithnancy.com/2801. Order Item Number BK2801 "Sew Simple with Rectangles and Squares." To pay by check or money order call the number on the screen for details. Visit Nancy's website at nancyzieman.com to see additional episodes, Nancy's blog, and more. Sewing with Nancy TV's longest airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman has been brought to you by Baby Lock; Madeira Threads; Koala Studios; Clover; Amazing Designs and Klass Needles. Closed captioning funding provided by Pellon. Sewing with Nancy is a co-production of Nancy Zieman Productions and Wisconsin Public Television.