Sewing With Nancy

Restyling, revising, and repurposing are trending terms. When you tag on the word "sweatshirts," you might think of my guest. Since the beginning of Sewing with Nancy, my friend and guest, Mary Mulari, has been our resident sweatshirt makeover expert, whose ideas are timeless. During this two-part series, we decide to re-visit some of our favorite transformations. Mary, it's only appropriate that you're here because these ideas you brought to me over the years, and they work. They're fun. They really are, and thank you for inviting me back! You're welcome! A sweatshirt is an ideal palette for expression. Start with a collection of 2-1/2" fabric strips. With creative stitching, turning, and pleating, we'll show you how to convert a pullover into a cardigan that has visual motion. I call this sweatshirt makeover "Stripes in Motion." A segment we recorded in 2010 that still stands the test of time. "The Best of Sweatshirt Makeovers" that's what's coming up next on Sewing With Nancy. Sewing with Nancy TV's longest-airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman is made possible by Baby Lock a complete line of sewing, quilting, and embroidery machines and sergers. Baby Lock, for the love of sewing. Madeira, specializing in embroidery, quilting, and special effect threads because creativity is never black and white. Koala Studios, fine sewing furniture, custom-built in America. Clover, making a difference in sewing, quilting, crafting, and needle arts for over 90 years. Amazing Designs and Klass needles. To revise any sweatshirt the first step is to do some deconstruction. We're going to turn this pullover sweatshirt into an open-up-the-front garment. Notice that on the "Strips in Motion" that there isn't a binding at the bottom. The ribbing is gone from the sweatshirt and it doesn't really look like a sweatshirt at all. No, we've used some colorful strips of fabric to make it much more interesting. You'll find that throughout this series and the book that accompanies the program that there are some common elements that almost all of your designs require. Very often I take off the bottom ribbing of the sweatshirt. Just cut it off. That's right, and I always save these. We're going to be using them on many projects also. But for now, we're turning up the edge of this sweatshirt and sewing twice around to give a ready-to-wear look to the hemline of the sweatshirt. Then we mark center front. That's often another step that we'll be doing on many of these shirts. So to get the center front you just folded the shoulder seams to match the side seams if there are seams, and mark the fold. That's right. Mark it distinctly because you will need to follow that line carefully. I'm sure many of you who sew have purchased already-cut fabrics. A Jelly Roll, or 2-1/2" strips, are commonly assembled together in pretty coordinates. That's what Mary has used to make this design. Take some of the work out, Nancy, because all of these strips coordinate and we can combine them in interesting ways. So, the first step is to fuse some fabric strips together to these. They're 2-1/2" and you have placed them on either side of the line. Of the center front, yes. Then there's sewing on each side of that line. I feel this is an important step in stabilizing a cardigan front. That's stitching 1/4" away from the center front line and then for this particular shirt we can roll back those facing pieces and they're really hidden on the underside of both sides of the shirt. Now you'd require some pressing at this point. That's right. We're kind of just... We'll be pressing later in this program but right now, we're just going to bypass it. Then we need to make our decorative strips. They're all 2-1/2", but what I do is for the one strip that I want on top I cut off a piece. So now I'm working with a 1-1/2" strip. I'm going to combine that with a 2-1/2" strip. Here's the next step. There's a seam on both sides of the top piece. They don't line up, obviously because they're not the same width. But we create a tube and we used a tool here to turn that right side out. Mary, you have closed one end which I have tried to get the tube in, but it doesn't work. That's right. That makes it easier to pull this right side out. It's a quick process. Generally I use half of a strip. The strips are around 40" long and I use about half of two strips. So, this is 20". And it ends up being, because you cut that-- The wider piece of fabric kind of frames the top piece and adds some interest to the strip in that way. Of course pressing is going to make a big difference. The seam allowances will go to the edge. I didn't do a very good job of getting the edges out at the corner, but... We can work on that later. Yes, I will work on that later. Then you do some more marking. That's right. We need to take out a ruler and draw some guidelines on the front of this shirt for placing our stripes. There will be one in the center front, a straight one. Then I'm going to draw a line here. This is a line that will come out. The stripes in motion, we start by pinning. You can use the guideline for the first and then we make an angled fold. This requires some pinning in through the sweatshirt and the stripe. Then I'll angle it again in this direction. I try to make each of the stripes for this process line up a little differently so they're not all equal and the same. You can continue that down and do some more folding in place. That gives the stripe some interest. Then you could intersperse them with straight stripes. Then there's also one that is sewn in the middle. It is sewn down about halfway over so this becomes a placket opening for the sweatshirt. On the finished sweatshirt, I have even extended that down so that it stands out below the bottom edge. To position these onto the garment to stabilize them or to permanently sew them, I should say here's a close up of using a blanket stitch a clear thread, just stitching in the well of the seam to attach all of the layers together. Clear thread is a marvelous thread to use. Yes, with all these color combinations it blends and the stitching is invisible. You don't have to change your thread all the time. That's right. We'll take another look at Mary's finished cardigan. To finish, we'll just show quickly how to work with the button loops. Well, these are hair bands, Nancy. I tend to like hair products for closures! And I have one here that we have done a little bit of stitching. Then, we're sewing little bands or strips of faux suede. Then these are wrapped, so we don't see our stitching. They're secured then on the edge of the cardigan placket. So, they're topstitched right to that center placket. Great elastic! Nice button loops! What a wonderful way to finish off your "Strips in Motion." Not all re-styled sweatshirts turn up as shirts. Take a bolder stance, and remove the sleeves of a sweatshirt to create an up-cycled vest. The serge and twist makeover features 1" strips cut from the sleeve fabric with serging along the edges. My idea of serging and then twisting the strips before topstitching to the vest front make for subtle, yet crafty embellishments. We'll take another close-up look at this design. It's more tonal than the last one that we had. That's right. It's not quite as bright. We have a placket made from the ribbing of the bottom of the sweatshirt. We have trims cut from the sleeve and we've utilized our serger for this. And, of course also turned back the edges of the cut sweatshirt armholes to make the finished edge. Throughout the series and in Mary's book you'll find many options in the hemming when we removed the binding or the ribbing from the bottom. Instead of just turning up the hem you can add length by using a strip of fabric. Some people like to save the full length of the sweatshirt after they cut off the ribbing so this is a great way to face the hem. So, before we can have revisions we have to deconstruct this. Sleeves off, obviously, to make a vest. And at the bottom, we have our facing pinned in place. We're ready to sew that. That would either be with one or two strips of the 2-1/2" prepared strips that we used in the previous project. Then we mark center front. That's going to be a really common denominator. Before we cut open or add the placket, there's yardage. The yardage is in the leftover sleeves. That's right. We're going to cut strips, 1" wide strips of the sleeve fabric. And they can be of any length. Dictated, of course, by the length of the sleeve. Right. The finished vest has three on each side of center front. Then also for the button loops you've cut narrower strips. Yes, 1/2" strips for button loops. Then to serge the edges, using a narrow overlock stitch and a contrasting thread, serge each edge. It's a really quick finish, but a nice accent. It's especially effective with pigment-dyed sweatshirts. When you twist these strips, Nancy, it's quite obvious what is the right side and the other side of this sweatshirt so that adds a nice element of design, as well. Now the button loops are going to go on first after marking the center front. Here is a strip that we might serge. It's much narrower than the decorative stripes. Then we cut this in approximately 5" lengths. That will be determined also by the size of the buttons that you choose for this. We will place the first one here near the top of the neck. Sure. So, the length could be determined. Check it on your button that you choose first of all. So then place the number that you'd like and then we can do the placket. Same width, 2-1/2", that we had in our last element but instead of using cotton strips of fabric Mary, you used the ribbing from the bottom. That's right. The seams were all cut off of this piece. See, I told you we save all of these. Then we can open that up and fuse lightweight interfacing to the back. So they were cut approximately 1-1/4" from the fold. That's right. So we have two of equal size. We turned the edges back at top and bottom and here we have our loops in place already. Then we can cut open the center front to again, make an opening in our vest. I'll quickly do this. Now we're all set to turn this to the backside. You'd have to do some stitching. Then the loops go over and you secure them also in the middle. We might draw a line on the sweatshirt we pin, and then we twist. With a line on the shirt it's of course going to be easier to follow. I'm making a guess here, but I like how this looks when we see both sides of the sweatshirt fleece. Then the final step would be to do the straight stitching along the edges. Just stitch down. I use thread that matches the serging and then it's a hidden seam. Serge and twist, another expressive sweatshirt. Adapt one of Mary's innovative techniques to repurpose a pullover into a cardigan. Then add a colorful blossom, perhaps from another recycled sweatshirt, and a graceful vine and leaves from batik fabrics to the sweatshirt front. It's a simple addition with great impact, and one of our favorite sweatshirt makeover ideas. As we take a close-up look at the bloom and vine design you'll see that instead of buttonholes and buttons it has a snap closure. This is your fourth variation of this placket front. That's right. I can't do them all the same. I wish you would be consistent! The reference material for today's show will include all the steps for this particular variation. We are going to concentrate on making the vine the dimensional flower, and the techniques that follow. The renovation of the sweatshirt is what we have been working with earlier in today's program. Remove the ribbing from the bottom add a placket opening, and you have kind of a unique... Yes, Nancy, I like to angle them. We cut the edges of the neck ribbing, then angle them then actually sew that down. It becomes a more comfortable neckline and the top corners of the ribbing don't curl under. The vine is the first dimensional accent that we're going to feature, and you can cut bias strips of fabric using a bias tape maker. Thread the end through the wide end of the maker. Advance it with a pin. As it starts to come out of the narrow end I'll grab the iron and we'll press it. As you're pressing this the long ends will be pressed toward the middle. You'll have a nice bias strip to form. Now you can shape that. Pin it onto the front of the jacket. And you're going to press a lot longer area than what I did. Another option would be to use pre-made bias tape. Yes, we can buy this in a roll that has fusible backing and that could be used to shorten the process. So after positioning this, you use a topstitch or blind hem stitch, to position the vines. The most important part the leaves and the flower. I've talked already about how I saved the bottom ribbings. Here is the bottom ribbing from a green sweatshirt. I put some interfacing and I cut my leaf shape out. I cut, actually, three for this sweatshirt. Then, the flower. This, Nancy, here is a piece of a sweatshirt sleeve that came from the sweatshirt you're wearing. Next week you will see this. That's right, and three circles of varying sizes. I cut them out with a pinking shears and then I sew them with a little bit of an X through the center. Then after putting them through the washer and the dryer this is how they turn out. Then I trim the base fabric away and I sew a snap to the bottom of that so my blossom is also reversible. You cut the edges. You cut the edges so that they are kind of "fringy" going around each layer. After washing and drying you get this variation And you can see it's very creative and innovative. Now it's time for asymmetrical styling of a sweatshirt. We call it the "Orient Expression" sweatshirt. Start with a typical sweatshirt, and remove the original neckline and hemline. Throw tradition out the window, and use the bottom ribbing to transform the shape of the neckline ribbing. Curious as to how it all comes together? The solution is just moments away. You'll see in this sweatshirt that we are not adding any additional embellishment, but just utilizing parts and different pieces. That's right. The bottom ribbing is removed and then re-stitched to the neckline in a V-neck. We do have some Jelly Rolls, or 2-1/2" strips that finish the cuff area and the hem. That's right. I've used two different strips. Why not? Because it's more fun that way. We start with a neck change. We've done this before on many sweatshirts, Nancy, to staystitch 1/4" around the bottom of the neck ribbing. Then trim. Yes, we cut that off. You'll see that stitching here. Then we mark 3" down from the center. Draw two straight lines to connect that point to the staystitching. Then another line which we angle toward the side of the sweatshirt. Just continue that line all the way to the side. It gives us a stitching line. Now, you'll see in the instructions that accompany today's program that you cut down the ribbing from the bottom to fit the neckline. Not as wide. Right, it's about 1-1/2" wide. But that's by personal preference, also. We start to sew here at the point of the V. We stretch the ribbing slightly as we stitch. We guide the ribbing, of course, around the neckline then back to the point of the V. At that point, you can try it on. You'd turn up this edge of the ribbing and also, then, you'd overlap and then continue to sew. Of course, there is that little V piece that you'd cut out of the neckline. So, remove this portion. It's just an overlap section. Now the hemming. You'll trim off the cuffs and the hem, of course because that's the ribbing area. You've placed a facing around the hem. This would, of course, be sewn in place. Next, we're going to shape this a little bit by using a curve. I placed that curved area kind of off-center. I used this tool to help me draw a curve that's equal on both sides of the area I've chosen. It's generally used to shape pockets but we are now shaping curves. You stitch following the curve. I also do that on the back of the sweatshirt just for a little bit of balance. Then, on this one you'll find that Mary has used a pinking shears to do trimming, and then cut into the shape. Then, I'll just turn this to the inside. We do a little topstitching to hold that in place. Of course, the sleeves are handled in the same way. On the sleeves, the curved edges are placed on the fold of the sleeve. One sleeve has a dark facing the other sleeve has a lighter facing. It makes for some interesting details. So, taking that ribbing from the bottom of the shirt adding it in an asymmetrical "Orient Expression" design is a really interesting classy way of dressing up a sweatshirt. Make a casual sweatshirt even better with the addition of another favorite fabric, denim. Bias strips cut from old jeans trim the neckline, sleeves and the centers of floral appliqus. A sweatshirt and a beloved pair of worn jeans are all you need to create this "Denim Do-Over" sweatshirt. Mary's fabrics of choice, denim and sweatshirts are combined here. Mary, you did a program with me many years ago on "Denim Makeovers." That's right, and many sweatshirt programs. Yes, and here we have both fabrics. As in the first sweatshirt of this program you removed the ribbing, turned under the edge and topstitched. We'll show you how to add a denim trim. That's right. And the appliqus have a little denim on them, as well. The sleeves have vents. The edges are trimmed, also, with strips of denim. So, first the denim. I have a collection of jeans of many different shades. I like both the right and the wrong sides of denim. And it's easy to cut strips. I cut strips that are 1" in length and width. Then I cut strips that are 1-1/2" in width. Here's my little collection, so far. They don't look so exciting. But I'm going to put them in a mesh bag and put them in the laundry, washer and dryer. When they're done they're going to come out looking much more interesting with a bit of a frayed edge. It won't fall apart, it's just more interesting looking. Then, I'll build a neckline. I'm going to measure my neckline and cut strips of bias to combine. I have here one set. And you see how I piece them. Many times, across the leg of a pair of jeans you can't get the full length you need. I piece and combine different shades of denim. You just overlap them, really. That's right. I don't even worry about seams. Here's another neckline all ready to stitch. The red stitching on the edge is zigzagging to hold the two layers together. Keep in mind that we use the technique, as we mentioned earlier. Staystitch the neckline, cut off the ribbing then turn under the edges. Then, this new neckline is stitched all the way around. We have right sides meeting. That's right. This first part of the neckline is pinned. I've already sewed the back half in place. Then, after getting the strips sewn on I do a little bit of topstitching to hold the edges of the denim inside the shirt. When you complete this and flip it up it's easy to work with. We turn our attention next to the sleeves. Here they have the same kind of edging the two layers of 1-1/2" and 1" of denim. There's another strip of 10" of denim that's cut and one strip is sewn to the sweatshirt 2" below the center fold. Then we are going to pin and stitch the second edge. Pull the first edge kind of out of the way a little bit so we can stitch that second edge down. We're going to trim off the ends to be level with the sleeve edge. And we're almost done. We have one little stitch-- cutting to do. This shows the finished stitching that we had of the vent. She stitched one side and then the other. Then there's the sweatshirt underneath. You just trim away from the underside. Let me just show you. Here's the trimmed vent. I think it's very clever. Very easy, too, Nancy. One quick final addition is making an appliqu. Because this is a pigment-dyed sweatshirt the reverse side is very textural and very interesting. This is the reverse side of this kind of pigment sweatshirt. It's terra cotta color and it's fused on. Very interesting. So, denim, sweatshirts, buttons, and a little creativity. We both hope that you've enjoyed taking a journey through a few of the Sewing with Nancy archives, highlighting our favorite sweatshirt makeover ideas. As always, Mary, thanks for joining us, showing us how to up-cycle, transform, re-do. You're a master at it! Well, thank you, Nancy. I'm confident we can say that sweatshirt makeovers are a timeless sewing project. Whether you do it for yourself or for kids, the makeovers are great to wear and create. Like to encourage you to stay connected with me on our extensive library of online Sewing with Nancy episodes. You can re-watch this program or many seasons of topics at your convenience when you click on NancyZieman.com. Also, follow us on my blog and receive updates on sewing, quilting, embroidering in the convenience of your Inbox. Well, Mary, thank you for being with us. It's always a pleasure to have you here. It's good to share ideas. And thank you for joining us at home. Bye for now. Nancy and Mary have written a fully-illustrated book entitled The Best Sweatshirt Makeovers that is the reference for this two-part series. The book includes more than 50 easy-to-sew sweatshirt transformations. The book is $19.99, plus shipping and handling. To order this book, call 800-336-8373

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sewingwithnancy.com/3001 Order Item No. BK3001 The Best Sweatshirt Makeovers. Credit Card orders only. To pay by check or money order call the number on the screen for details. Visit Nancy's Web site at NancyZieman.com to see additional episodes, Nancy's blog, and more. Sewing with Nancy TV's longest-airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman has been brought to you by Baby Lock; Madeira Threads; Koala Studios; Clover; Amazing Designs and Klass Needles. Closed captioning funding provided by Riley Blake Designs. Sewing with Nancy is a co-production of Nancy Zieman Productions and Wisconsin Public Television.