Sewing With Nancy

It's easy to remain stylish and fashion forward while warding off a chill. Just add a comfortable wrap. Sewing expert, Mary Mulari joins me to share how to transform your look in an instant with wraps. Welcome back, Mary. Thanks, Nancy. Wraps are really a versatile addition to any wardrobe and can be sewn effortlessly. The Aurora Wrap is our first version. Choose an elegant fabric to wear when you're out on the town or select a knit fabric to make your next wrap to wear at the office for those days when the air conditioning is too cool. "All Occasion Fabric Wraps," that's what's next on Sewing With Nancy. Sewing with Nancy, TV's longest-airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman is made possible by Baby Lock, a complete line of sewing, quilting and embroidery machines and sergers. Baby Lock, for the love of sewing. Madeira, specializing in embroidery, quilting and special-effect threads because creativity is never black and white. Koala Studios fine sewing furniture custom-built in America. Clover, making a difference in sewing, quilting, crafting, and needle arts for over 30 years. Amazing Designs and Klass needles. Mary's Aurora Wrap has two variations. The simplest one is what Alex was wearing at first. It's an embroidered curtain. That's right. I look for fabric everywhere, Nancy. It's very simply made in that it has side seams and an opening in that seam. Then when we put this on we open it this way. Your arm and hand are inserted through the openings. You get a little shawl collar effect if you turn this back. It's two seams and a big piece of fabric. We're going to share that with you the size, in our next option that's more open, which is the pink version. Yes, this one has the same sleeve openings that we did on the curtain and also a hem. But it has an opening in the front. We can wear it just slightly differently. This is a piece of knit fabric and the size-- 52" by 32". 32", so it's almost a yard long. We've folded this in half meeting the long 52" lengths. And like that curtain, Mary stitched, I think, on your side. This is the side seam stitched. On this model we left an 8" seam opening. That will be the sleeve opening. Sew just a seam on both sides then you turn this back and top stitch which is on the other sleeve. If you look close inside, Mary just did big zigzag stitches. I'd normally use matching thread, Nancy. You would? Yes, I would, but I like the zigzag. It gives stretch to the seam. The hem is the same way just pressing up 3/4", 1/2", whatever you'd like and then doing that zigzag. The whole bottom edge is finished. Now it would be much like that curtain. That's right. It didn't look like a curtain but it's a beautiful way to wear a wrap. Yes. Scarlet never had it so good. Now we're going to put an opening in it. We're going to use the same neck opening that we used in the previous program, Nancy. But this time I make a fun size pattern so that I can trace around the entire thing. Then I extend the ends of the pattern to the bottom. We have the fabric folded half-way and there's a fold line on the pattern. They align together. Then you trace that opening and cut it open just through one layer. Yes, oh, that's important. Yeah. And I leave about 1/2" extra beyond the seam. Our next samples show how I would cut open this neckline of this wrap. Here's is an example. It looks a little odd at this point. I've marked two marks. They're 8" apart on the curve of the neckline. I have paper-backed fusible web and I'm going to actually cut into that. Then you've cut it, and we'll flip this around. This way it allows you to have a nice curve of that seam. This is the stay stitching on the edge. With a little shaping around the neckline and some more stitching around that area you have an Aurora Wrap that can be made in an hour or less. With a book or an e-reader in hand and this wrap around you you're all set for a warm and relaxing reading session. If you prefer a lighter-weight fabric use the optional cutting line to transform the wrap front into a dressy pocket version. Throughout this two-part series we are using a variety of fabrics. The first fabric that we are going to showcase is an up-cycled fabric. That's right, Nancy. The light pink fabric is really a old wool blanket that's been washed many times. I used, actually, the edge that used to have satin ribbon as the bottom of the wrap. It has pockets that I added. I like to consider adding some candy bars into those pockets for a really nice reading session. I'm with you. Now throughout this series many of the shapes that we work with are rectangular or square but this time you really do need a pattern. It's a big pattern shape. Right, it just makes such an interesting warm, nicely draped shawl. We have this made from tissue paper but the reference material will help you to draft your own version of this pattern with the guidelines. And Nancy, this is when I would reach for my gridded pattern making material because the measurement on the 1" grid really speeds this up. So you could count 27" across and 34" down. It's placed on the fold so you need two yards of fabric to make this wrap. You can see the optional cutting line either the straight line or the curved line. The curved line is on the batik fabric. It's nice for lighter-weight fabrics. Is was actually formerly a beach wrap. I turned back the edge on the line and I turned this into a pocket here on the front though it could be sewn directly to the body of the wrap as well. I used a little bit of bias on the edge of my turn back. To cover that edge. Right. It's just another nice option. This is the pattern piece, obviously but here's this foldback that would be turned. The other right side would show. and we would have, for example on our fabric we zigzagged this edge. You could leave it zigzagged when you top stitch it not to the tissue patterns but we just want to show you how it's shaped. Or you could cover the edge as Mary has. The reading wrap, from a recycled blanket or to a batik fabric, you have many choices. Turn a large square scarf which you haven't been wearing anyway into a flowing cover-up to wear for an evening walk or a chill-chaser over a sundress. The key to success is to add a faced neckline opening to the scarf. Here's how. You just saw Alex wearing this great scarf with the opening, and it was on point. Some really fun fabrics and the facing really isn't very evident but you used a very light-weight fabric. It didn't show through. Right, and it's on the back side it's hidden on the back of the scarf with a little top stitching to hold it all in place. But if you couldn't find a fabric that was kind of camouflaged to the underside you can make the facing predominant. Here on the orange wrap we've kept the facing on the right side or the top side. It added a little decoration as well as securing and making a strong neckline, Nancy that is very durable for wearing. Our samples are somewhat a smaller scale just to show you the idea. We have a rectangle that was folded in half on point. We have two sets of folds. Once again, press mark. That's right. We need both of those to be evident so we can add our facing in the correct place. The facing pattern looks like this. It has a line which you would align with what would be the shoulder line of the fabric. For that first press mark. Then I also recommend cutting out a separate small piece so you can trace that on easily. So traditional facings are cut with an opening in the neckline. This has the opening included at this point. I think it's easier really. I have the fabric here. I have light-weight interfacing on the back. Here is the line that indicates, again, what we align with the shoulder line press mark on the fabric. As well as the center being the press mark. Right. So we'll open this up. We have this all press marked. We'll simply just position matching the pressing marks, and pin. That's right. Then it's a simple matter, really of sewing around the line in the center. That's the neck hole opening line. That's what I'm doing right here just stitching with a short stitch length so that I can manage that curve gracefully and have an even stitch. Here we have it sewn around the edges. Now you're not limited just to silky scarf fabric. You could also use plush. This time perhaps, Mary you'd have to cut it out of a large square and finish the edges. I've started to do the trimming around this area using a rotary cutter or you could use a pinking shears. I really like a pinked edge for trimming away because I think it actually clips and trims all in one step. Yes, and then clip to the center and we just flip this to the inside. Then a little bit of pressing and a little bit of top stitching and your facing is in place to stay. Now there's more for scarves. Two long scarves put together with just an opening for the neckline is what Alex is showcasing right now. You can see, this is a quick way of making a caftan, a flowing wrap style. With scarves you have many options whether it's square or rectangular. This repurposing project makes use of a sweatshirt body and a necktie for a casual cover-up. Check closets for sweatshirts and neckties no longer being worn and turn them into a wrap that is perfect for shopping at a farmers' market. Now when Mary showed me this wrap I thought, how did you come up with this idea? Because the wrap-- I couldn't figure out where the sweatshirt came from. Well, I can't resist a sweatshirt project, Nancy. Here, on our model sweatshirt this is actually the bottom ribbing of the sweatshirt. We've added a necktie with some ruffles in it. The edges of the sweatshirt were turned back and stitched in place. And back under this corner is a surprise little pocket for your coins for the farmers' market. It's a fun wrap to wear and makes use of something that-- You know, we're repurposing again here. Sure. We have small sweatshirts on our table size small I should say. The marking and this has many markings on it but the first one is-- What was the bottom is going to be the top. Mary, you've marked the center front. I'll straighten that up a little bit. I like to make sure it's a very distinct mark because it's going to be important to follow a little later for stay stitching. But after marking the center then we mark from the bottom of the sleeve over to the center line. It's about 4" I should note 4" from the neckline. That's right, on this particular shirt. If it's longer it might be a different pitch. Right, and we want to avoid logos and motifs on the sweatshirt. But this will allow you to cut a plain sweatshirt open for this. Then you make certain that the ribbings are matched. You're going to cut both layers at the same time. You're going to cut this V. We're going to cut here and over to here. But we're not going to cut open the center until we do some stitching. Now the stitching is already accomplished on this particular sample. We've stay stitched or stabilized just sewing through the front 1/4" or so on either side of the mark. Then it's safe to cut open the sweatshirt body. The next sample has been all cut. Then you'll start to see how this comes together. We're going to pull this just a little bit to show how the wrap is going to take shape. You get a point in the back two teardrop points in the front. Then we'll be turning under the edges, under or over. We have pink thread here. Normally we'd use thread to match the sweatshirt. Then I would use a zigzag stitch to secure the edges in place. Maybe you'll want to round the edge here so it's not quite so pointed. Here being at the point, so it's easier to maneuver. Right, right. But the choice is yours. Honestly, a sweatshirt's not going to ravel so you really wouldn't have to even stitch it, right? That's true. You have the wrap kind of shaped. Now for the closure. Well, we're going to use a necktie. Many of us have these on hand in some state or other. You take the tag off and then there's always a really nice, strong thread. We can simply pull this out. What we're going to do after that-- This takes a little bit of pulling. But it's going to release the tie. Now we can remove all of the insiders. I have that from another tie. It's really easy to get rid of that. It's fast. We don't need all of that thickness and bulk for this particular project. Set that aside. You never know when you might want to use it. Right, yeah. Then the necktie is a lot softer and so on the folded over edge I have pieces of paper-backed fusible web. I'd peel these off and then fuse the edges of the tie together. Let's bring up that next tie to show how we're going to shape it around the neckline. Here we have marked on the tie the middle of it. Yes, so the half-way point. And on the sweatshirt I have the center back marked. So here we go. We're going to just meet start at the center to center and you creatively pin. Well, yes, and that's a great term for it, Nancy. Because some ties are long and others shorter but we're going to make pleats. That give a little bit of interesting dimension when we sew this tie onto the sweatshirt. We just keep pleating this and stitching. Or not stitching yet. Here's a close-up of how I'm stitching just top stitching around that neckline on an already completed sweatshirt. And our final sweatshirt shows how the closure takes place. Here we have the two sides that overlap. We have a little bit of hook and loop tape here. We have an opening planned here in the front. Then we have more tape here. So this is how we hold our wrap in place. Presto, a sweatshirt wrap. Choose soft and warm fabrics or recycle sweaters, as shown here to create this wrap, a perfect extra layer. Accent the wrap with large interesting buttons. The closure for this two-button wrap can be symmetrical or off-set. Let your mood influence your style. Now this not only is a two-button wrap but it has, first of all, fascinating fabric. Yes, these are pieces of five different wool sweaters that just happen to be shrunk. Or felted, as they might say by hot water, the agitation of the washing machine. I've found these sweaters to come together. They're really not so ravelly anymore when they're felted. You can then dry them in the dryer no worries there because you want them to be condensed. The width of fabric is 14". You have five different pieces here of this put to together. If we take a close-up look you just over laid the fabrics one on top of the other, then top stitched. It couldn't be much easier, Nancy. No. The serging, if you have a serger I would recommend doing a three or four thread, in this instance serger stitch around the edge just to finish that. Then it's 60" by 14". We have one button hole. When you have a wool fabric a synthetic suede patch is perfect. Right, it's decorative as well as strong. The button hole is about 8" from the bottom and it aligns with this first button the button closest to the bottom. As our model wore it, this way you can see the two halves align. But then to just make it asymmetrical-- I'm an asymmetrical kinda gal, so this is my style. Very interesting. It changes the look. This is a great, warm layer to have in many times of the year. Now perhaps you're in a climate where you need something lighter or you'd like something fancier. We have just a 14" by 60" piece of fabric. It's a plush fleece. Yes. This one has edges turned back in a way that we've done before here in this series. There's a large button here and my favorite closure, Nancy, ponytail holders. Those wrap around this large button to hold the wrap in place. So there are lots of variations. Also, you're size if you're a taller person you might want a longer wrap. Of course. You can see that we have shown you throughout this two-part series a variety of wraps from scarves, recycled sweaters, rainwear curtains, lace, rick rack, magnetic closures. It's very easy to make all occasion wraps in a very short amount of time. I've read and heard many definitions of modern quilting. Rarely can I remember the explanation. When talking today earlier with "Nancy's Corner" guest I heard him say, "A modern quilt has little to do with style rather it speaks to the issues of the day." I could relate, and I knew I had the right person to interview. Please welcome Thomas Knauer author of the book, Modern Quilt Perspectives who joins us from England via Skype. Thomas, thanks for being on Sewing With Nancy. Thanks for having me, Nancy. It's a treat to learn about your perspective on quilting and how you look at quilts. We're just going to start right off by looking at a quilt that is a modern version of the Log Cabin. In this quilt, "Cinder Blocks" I wanted to update that metaphor of working, as the home as the basis for a quilt. I chose cinder blocks as the foundation material for most homes we live in. I wanted to use that as a place to then still play with color but update that notion of where do we live? And quilt as a metaphor for our homes. Instead of the red center of that log cabin you have playful colors interacting. It's joyful. Thank you. I love playing with four, five, six of the same color in the same quilt or tones of a color. I hope it lets quilts pop. It does. And speaking of pop the next quilt our viewers will be seeing is a quilt you call "Ampersand." Ampersand is the symbol for the word 'and' and it was designed for my children. It's a place where we tell stories. The ampersand is composed of 225 different novelty prints. Fun. We start telling a story and if the story lags we point at a different print whether it be monkeys or a spaceship and the story takes off from there. I also love then when I come into a room by myself and I see that on the bed it's just this big, existential 'and' staring at me asking me what I'm going to do next. I'm inspired by that one. I can just see talking to my grandchildren with a quilt like that. I'm sure many of us will follow suit with you. Speaking of children, you like to make baby quilts. I have made baby quilts for my children almost everyone I know who has a kid gets a baby quilt from me. This one was specifically made in response to our second child. We wanted a second child but after my daughter was born I was diagnosed with a rare genetic disorder and I didn't want to pass that on or risk passing that on. So we used a donor. This quilt is based on mitosis the two cells coming together splitting to four, eight, 16, 32. It's a very blunt mathematical pattern. But as it all happens and comes together it becomes a riot of color which is, again, a metaphor for our son who is a riot. Well, if he's as spontaneous and as fun as this quilt I can see why-- You told me he was playing in the sunshine today in England romping through the garden. He is wild. There's a quilt that has a deeper meaning. It's a wall hanging. Please explain that to our viewers. "Excess" comes from a section in the book about social commentary in quilts. This one is composed of 1,600 blocks the same block. Each one represents one of the 1,600 people who are killed in domestic violence incidents every year in America. Four out of five are women one out of five are men. That's represented through color in the quilt. The amazing quilter I work with, Lisa -- she and I decided to quilt this with text from the Violence Against Women Act that was being held up in the senate at the time we were making this quilt over extending the act's protections to people in same sex marriages or same sex relationships. Then even the shape of the quilt-- It is 13-1/2' long. It is too long for any normal wall to contain which is, again, another metaphor for the excess that each one of those deaths is. Well, it's beautiful, but unfortunately the message that it portrays really speaks to my heart, and to many. Thomas, you are an amazing quilter. Thank you. And an amazing designer. I would like to invite you to come back some other time. I would love to and find a way to come out in person. That would be even better. Thank you for joining us. Thank you for having me. And thanks to you for watching. This is part of our two-part series on "All Occasion Fabric Wraps." Mary Mulari, my guest, showed great design. You have lots to go home and sew. Go to nancyzieman.com to find out more information. You can re-watch the show and out more about Thomas. Thanks for joining me. Bye for now. Mary Mulari has written a book entitled "All Occasion Fabric Wraps." That is the reference for this two-part series. The book includes 14 easy-to-sew wraps and shawls. It's $14.99, plus shipping and handling. To order the book, call 1-800-336-8373 or visit our website at sewingwithnancy.com/2813. Order Item Number MP44 "All Occasion Fabric Wraps." To pay by check or money order call the number on the screen for details. Visit Nancy's website at nancyzieman.com to see additional episodes, Nancy's blog, and more. Sewing with Nancy TV's longest airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman has been brought to you by Baby Lock; Madeira Threads; Koala Studios; Clover; Amazing Designs and Klass Needles. Closed captioning funding provided by Pellon. Sewing with Nancy is a co-production of Nancy Zieman Productions and Wisconsin Public Television.