Rick Steves' Europe

HI, I'M RICK STEVES, EXPLORING MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME WE'RE HIGH IN THE SWISS ALPS. FROM THE LUSH VALLEY FLOORS TO THE TIPS OF THESE PEAKS, WE'LL SHARE THE STORY OF THE SWISS PEOPLE AND THEIR BREATHTAKING LAND. RATHER THAN TACKLING A CHECKLIST OF FAMOUS SWISS MOUNTAINS AND RESORTS, I LIKE TO CHOOSE ONE AREA AND SAVOR IT. THIS TIME IT'S A REGION CALLED THE BERNER OBERLAND. WE'LL SEE LOTS OF AWESOME PEAKS AND WE'LL ALSO GET CLOSE TO THE SWISS CULTURE IN A LAND WHERE TRADITION MEETS THE MODERN WORLD AND SURVIVES. WE'LL SEE GREAT PEAKS, BUT THIS ISN'T JUST ANY ALPS SHOW. WE'LL MAKE CHEESE THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY, ENJOY SOME TRADITIONAL MUSIC, MEET CHILDREN IN A ONE-ROOM SCHOOLHOUSE, LEARN SOME SWISS MILITARY SECRETS, PET COWS IN A TRAFFIC-FREE ALPINE VILLAGE, FEEL THE RAW POWER OF NATURE HARD AT WORK IN THESE MOUNTAINS AND CLIMB TO A SPECTACULAR VIEW FROM ATOP THE ALPS. SWITZERLAND IS EMBEDDED IN THE CENTER OF EUROPE, AND ITS MOST MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY. WE'LL EXPLORE THE THRILLING BEST OF THE ALPS IN A REGION CALLED THE BERNER OBERLAND. FROM INTERLAKEN,

TWO VALLEYS LEAD SOUTH

TOURISTY GRINDELWALD AND QUIETER LAUTERBRUNNEN. FROM OUR VILLAGE HOME BASE OF GIMMELWALD, WE'LL RIDE LIFTS UP TO THE SCHILTHORN AND JUNGFRAU. FOR THE SWISS, THE ALPS ARE A MARVELOUS PLAYGROUND, WINTER OR SUMMER, RAIN OR SHINE. AND THEY'VE MADE MANY OF THE MOST EXCITING SPOTS EASILY ACCESSIBLE BY TRAIN OR LIFT. FOR THIS EPISODE, WE PARK OUR CAR ONCE AND RELY ENTIRELY ON PUBLIC TRANSIT, LIKE THIS. PART OF THE FUN AND MUCH OF THE EXPENSE OF ENJOYING THE ALPS IS RIDING THE VARIOUS LIFTS. WHETHER YOU'RE RIDING COGWHEEL TRAINS, STEEP FUNICULARS OR GONDOLAS, THE VIEWS ARE BREATHTAKING. THIS GONDOLA DROPS US IN THE TRAFFIC-FREE VILLAGE OF GIMMELWALD. THIS TINY INTERSECTION IS THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN. ON A SUNNY DAY, YOU UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE SAY, "IF HEAVEN ISN'T WHAT IT'S CRACKED UP TO BE, SEND ME BACK TO GIMMELWALD." THE VILLAGE, ESTABLISHED IN THE MIDDLE AGES, INCREDIBLY ON THE EDGE OF THIS CLIFF, WAS ONE OF THE POOREST PLACES IN SWITZERLAND. ITS TRADITIONAL ECONOMY WAS STUCK IN THE HAY. ITS FARMERS MAKE ENDS MEET ONLY WITH HELP FROM SWISS GOVERNMENT SUBSIDIES AND BY WORKING THE SKI LIFTS IN THE WINTER. MODERN TOURISM HAS PERKED UP THE LOCAL ECONOMY AS WELL. THE VILLAGE OPERATES LIKE A BIG FAMILY. IN FACT, MOST OF THE 120 RESIDENTS

HAVE THE SAME LAST NAME

von ALLMEN. COLLECTING GRASS TO GET THEIR COWS THROUGH THE WINTER IN THIS RUGGED TERRAIN IS LABOR-INTENSIVE. EACH HARDWORKING FAMILY HARVESTS ONLY ENOUGH TO FEED 15 OR 20 COWS. LIFE CAN BE TOUGH, BUT THEY'D HAVE IT NO OTHER WAY. A GENERATION AGO, DEVELOPERS WANTED TO TURN GIMMELWALD INTO A BIG RESORT TOWN. THE VILLAGERS THWARTED THOSE PLANS BY GETTING THE ENTIRE TOWN DECLARED AN AVALANCHE ZONE. FROM THAT POINT ON, NO ONE COULD GET PERMISSION TO BUILD ANYTHING BIGGER THAN A HOUSE OR A BARN. UNLIKE NEIGHBORING RESORT TOWNS, GIMMELWALD REMAINS A VITAL COMMUNITY OF FAMILIES, LOCALLY OWNED AND PROUD OF IT. MOST OF THE BUILDINGS HOUSE TWO FAMILIES AND ARE DIVIDED VERTICALLY RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE. THE WRITING ON THE POST OFFICE BUILDING IS A FOLKSY BLESSING. "SUMMER BRINGS GREEN, WINTER BRINGS SNOW. "THE SUN GREETS THE DAY, THE STARS GREET THE NIGHT. "THIS HOUSE WILL KEEP YOU WARM. MAY GOD GIVE US HIS BLESSINGS." THE OLDEST BUILDING IN TOWN DATES FROM 1658. STUDY THE LOG CABIN CONSTRUCTION. MANY ARE BUILT WITHOUT NAILS. GIMMELWALD HAS A STRICT BUILDING CODE. FOR INSTANCE, SHUTTERS CAN ONLY BE NATURAL, GREEN, OR WHITE. THE STONES ON THE HUTS ARE THERE TO KEEP THE SHINGLES FROM BLOWING OFF DURING STRONG WINTER STORMS. FARMERS HANG BIG CEREMONIAL COWBELLS UNDER THEIR EAVES, WAITING FOR THAT FESTIVE DAY IN THE SPRING WHEN THE COWS MOVE FROM THEIR BARNS UP TO THE HIGH MEADOWS. GIMMELWALD'S ACCOMMODATIONS ARE RUSTIC. A COUPLE SIMPLE PENSIONS, B&Bs, A HOSTEL, EVEN A BARN THE HIKERS SLEEP IN WHEN THE COWS ARE IN THE HIGH MEADOWS. IF YOU WANT A FANCY BED, YOU'RE BETTER OFF IN A NEARBY RESORT. IT'S FUN TO BUY PRODUCE DIRECTLY FROM GIMMELWALD'S ENTREPRENEURIAL FARMERS LIKE ESTHER. GUTEN TAG.

Esther

GUTEN TAG.

Rick

DO YOU SPEAK ENGLISH? YES, A LITTLE BIT. CAN I HELP? WHAT DO YOU HAVE FOR SALE HERE? WE HAVE HERE ALP CHEESE, MOUNTAIN CHEESE. WE HAVE FROM OUR COWS THE BEEF JERKY AND SALAMI SAUSAGE THAT WE MAKE NOT HERE IN THE HOUSE. THE COW GOES TO INTERLOCKEN AND THE SAUSAGE AND THE DRIED MEAT COME BACK. AND THE SAUSAGE HAVE 28 PERCENT PORK BUT ALL IS ORGANIC. WE HAVE AN ORGANIC FARM. OKAY. HOW MUCH IS A BEEF JERKY? IT'S FIVE FRANCS. ITS 100-GRAM SLICE. BEAUTIFUL. I'LL HAVE THAT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. DANKE SCHN! BYE, HAVE A NICE DAY. THE VILLAGE'S BIGGEST BUILDING IS THE SCHOOLHOUSE. AND THE TEACHER, OLLIE EGGIMANN, IS GIVING US A LOOK AT ALPINE EDUCATION. OKAY, RICK, COME IN. THIS IS OUR CLASSROOM HERE. HERE WE HAVE 70 CHILDREN WE TEACH FROM 7 TO 16 YEARS OLD, SO WE TEACH THEM ALL TOGETHER IN ONE CLASSROOM. AND MY WIFE AND ME, WE SHARE THE ONLY TEACHING POSITION IN TOWN.

bell rings

students shouting

Rick

EACH DAY STARTS WITH SINGING. THEN THE STUDENTS SETTLE INTO THEIR RESPECTIVE STUDIES. IT'S LITTLE NICOLE'S FIRST WEEK, SO SHE'S GETTING SOME EXTRA ATTENTION. DR, VIER, FF, SCHS, SIBE, ACHT, NN, Z! WELL, YOU KNOW, IT'S SOMEHOW LIKE A FAMILY WHERE WE HAVE CHILDREN THAT ARE 7 YEAR OLD AND 16 YEARS OLD. IF WE GO SKIING OR HIKING, THE OLDER ONES, WITHOUT EVEN DEBATE, ASK FOR IF THEY WILL CARRY THEIR HEAVY LUGGAGE FOR THEM. SO IT'S REALLY -- THEY TAKE CARE OF EACH OTHER. OLLIE AND HIS WIFE, MARIA, ARE ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT THE MODERN WORLD, AND THEY ALSO RESPECT THE DEEP-SEATED LOCAL TRADITIONS. THE STUDENTS ENJOY THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. YOU KNOW, EDUCATION SHOULD PREPARE CHILDREN FOR THEIR LIFE AND WHAT IS IMPORTANT. HERE IT'S IMPORTANT THAT THEY KNOW TO USE THE FACILITIES WE HAVE, LIKE COMPUTERS, BUT MORE IMPORTANT, THEY HAVE TO LEARN HOW TO WRITE, HOW TO READ, TO UNDERSTAND WHAT THEY SEE, THEY HAVE TO LEARN SEVERAL LANGUAGES, AT LEAST ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND THESE ARE THE BASICS OF AN EDUCATION, AND THESE WILL NEVER CHANGE.

siren

Rick

VILLAGERS ARE EXPECTED TO SERVE AS FIREFIGHTERS. AND EVERY FEW MONTHS, RAIN OR SHINE, THEY SUIT UP AND HAVE A DRILL. WITH THE FIERCE ALP WINDS, MANY OF THESE ALL-WOOD TOWNS HAVE BURNT ENTIRELY TO THE GROUND. THESE REMOTE VILLAGES HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO PROVIDE THEIR OWN FIREFIGHTERS. AND SINCE MANY OF THE MEN ARE OUT IN THE FIELDS, STAY-AT-HOME MOMS PLAY A KEY ROLE. GIMMELWALD HAS NEVER HAD A MAJOR FIRE. I WAS TOLD THAT THE VILLAGERS, WELL AWARE OF THE PROFICIENCY OF THEIR FIREFIGHTING TEAM, ARE ESPECIALLY CAREFUL WITH FIRES. IN THE ALPS, GET AN EARLY START. THE PEAKS ARE OFTEN CLEAR IN THE MORNING AND THEN CLOUD UP. WE'RE RIDING THE SHILTHORNBAHN TO THE TOP OF THE SHILTHORN. THE SHILTHORNBAHN CARRIES SKIERS, HIKERS, AND SIGHTSEERS, QUICK AND EASY, TO THE TEN-THOUSAND-FOOT SUMMIT OF THE SHILTHORN, WHERE THE PIZ GLORIA STATION AWAITS WITH A RESTAURANT, SHOP, AND PANORAMA TERRACE. THE EARLY RIDE IS DISCOUNTED ENOUGH TO PAY FOR A BIG BREAKFAST IN THE REVOLVING RESTAURANT WHICH CAPS THE SUMMIT. BREAKFAST COMES WITH 360 DEGREES OF EVERCHANGING VIEWS. WHILE LIFTS TAKE YOU TO THE HIGH POINTS EFFORTLESSLY, THERE'S NOTHING LIKE ACTUALLY HIKING. YOU CAN GAIN YOUR ALTITUDE BY LIFT AND HIKE FROM A GONDOLA STATION ON A LEVEL TRAIL. TRAILS ARE THOUGHTFULLY SIGN-POSTED. THIS SIGN POINTS TO EIGHT DESTINATIONS. GIMMELWALD IS 3 HOURS, 15 MINUTES TO THE LEFT. THESE TIMES ARE CLOCKED BY LOCAL SENIOR CITIZENS, A HUMBLING THOUGHT. MOUNTAIN HUTS ARE STATIONED THROUGHOUT THE ALPS, OFTEN A COMFORTABLE DAY'S HIKE APART. YOU COULD HIKE FROM FRANCE TO SLOVENIA, NEVER COME OUT OF THE MOUNTAINS AND EVERY NIGHT SLEEP IN A HUT LIKE THIS. THEY PROVIDE SIMPLE MEALS, HOT DRINKS AND CHEAP LOFT BEDS. ENABLING HIKERS TO ENJOY SERIOUS HIKES WITHOUT CARRYING FOOD, SLEEPING BAGS OR TENTS. I LOVE THESE HIKES. WHILE WE'RE HIGH ABOVE THE VILLAGES, WE'RE NOT TOO HIGH FOR THE COWS OR THE GOATS. TAKE TIME TO GREET THESE TAME ALPINE COMPANIONS, AND LISTEN TO THEIR RANDOM SYMPHONY OF BELLS.

clanging of cow and goat bells

baa-a-a

Rick

ENJOY THE WILDFLOWERS, INCLUDING, IF THEY'RE IN SEASON, THE MUCH-LOVED EDELWEISS, A SYMBOL OF THE ALPS. THIS IS A TYPICAL SWISS RESORT COMMUNITY, PEACEFULLY TRAFFIC-FREE WITH HIKERS IN THE SUMMER, SKIERS IN THE WINTER, LOTS OF BIG HOTELS, CLIFFSIDE TERRACE RESTAURANTS, AND COLORFUL SHOPS WITH ALL THE ALPINE TRINKETS.

bell ringing

Rick

MURREN IS ALSO A GOOD STARTING POINT FOR MOUNTAIN BIKING, POPULAR HERE IN THE ALPS. SO HERE'S YOUR BIKE. ALL RIGHT! JUST STICK ON THE ROADS WITH THE BIKE SIGNS. YOU'LL BE ALL RIGHT. OKAY, NOW I'VE GOT ABOUT A HALF A DAY. WHAT'S A GOOD LOOP TRIP? GOOD LOOP? I'D RECOMMEND FROM MURREN HERE, GOING DOWN TO GIMMELWALD HERE. IT'S ALWAYS DOWN IN ELEVATION. STECHELBERG ALONG THE BOTTOM OF THE VALLEY FLOOR, TO APPROXIMATELY LAUTERBRUNNEN. THEN YOU CAN PUT HER ON THE LIFT, GO UP THE FUNICULAR AND... RIGHT BACK INTO MURREN. DON'T FORGET TO TAKE A FEW PICTURES. I'LL DO THAT. OKAY. HEY, THANKS A LOT. HAVE A GOOD DAY. BYE. BYE-BYE. SMALL SERVICE ROADS AND WELL-MARKED INTERSECTIONS MAKE BIKING EASY. AND SINCE I'M USING LIFTS TO REGAIN MY ALTITUDE, MOST OF MY BIG LOOP RIDE IS LEVEL OR DOWNHILL. SIGNS INDICATE WHERE BIKERS ARE WELCOME. THIS LITTLE ROAD LEADS TO THE VALLEY FLOOR. LAUTERBRUNNEN MEANS "VALLEY OF LOUD WATERS," AN APT NAME. AND TODAY, THE WATERFALLS ARE PARTICULARLY ROBUST. OF THE MANY WATERFALLS, TRUMMELBACH IS UNIQUE BECAUSE IT'S ACTUALLY INSIDE THE MOUNTAIN AND OFFERS A BEHIND-THE-SCENES PEEK AT THE POWER OF NATURE IN ACTION. YOUR TRUMMELBACH FALLS EXPERIENCE STARTS WITH AN ELEVATOR RIDE. THEN, AFTER HIKING THROUGH SOME CAVERNOUS TUNNELS, YOU EMERGE DEEP INSIDE THE MOUNTAIN AND HIGH ABOVE THE VALLEY FLOOR. YOU SEE THE RAGING RIVER, GRINDING LIKE GOD'S BANDSAW DEEPER AND DEEPER INTO THE MOUNTAIN. THE MELTWATER FROM THE REGION'S TOP PEAKS, THE EIGER, MONCH AND JUNGFRAU, THUNDERS THROUGH THIS FUNNEL-LIKE GORGE AT THE RATE OF OVER FOUR THOUSAND GALLONS A SECOND. ROLLING ON, MY ROUTE TAKES ME THROUGH A TYPICAL EUROPEAN CAMPGROUND. IT'S UNDERSTANDABLE WHY CAMPGROUNDS ARE SO POPULAR HERE. GOOD ONES ARE IDYLLICALLY SITUATED AND COME WITH PLENTY OF RUSTIC COMFORTS. A WELL-GROOMED PLACE TO PARK YOUR TRAILER OR PITCH YOUR TENT, GREAT FACILITIES, A SMALL STORE AND RESTAURANT. AND CAMPGROUNDS OFTEN COME WITH BUNGALOWS OFFERING CHEAP BEDS FOR THOSE WITHOUT GEAR. NESTLED IN THE BOTTOM OF THE VALLEY IS THE TOWN OF LAUTERBRUNNEN. ITS CENTRAL LOCATION MAKES IT A HANDY HUB FROM WHICH TO EXPLORE EITHER SIDE OF THE VALLEY. FROM HERE A FUNICULAR, WHICH CARRIES BIKES AS WELL AS PEOPLE, TAKES ME STRAIGHT UP THE MOUNTAIN. EXCUSE ME, HOW STEEP IS THIS? 61 PERCENT. 61 PERCENT. YES. AND DOESN'T FALL DOWN? NEVER. NEVER? NEVER A PROBLEM. FOR 100 YEARS. YES. THIS SURE BEATS THE STAIRS. AND FROM THE TOP, A SCENIC LANE LEADS BACK TO MY STARTING POINT IN MURREN. EXPLORING THIS NATURAL WONDERLAND, YOU COME UPON GREAT EXAMPLES OF HOW IN SWITZERLAND, TRADITION MEETS THE MODERN WORLD AND SURVIVES. THIS WATERWHEEL, 150 YEARS OLD BUT WASHED OUT IN A RECENT FLOOD, WAS REBUILT WITH ITS BLADES STILL POWERED BY A MOUNTAIN STREAM. ALMOST ALL OF TIMBER IN THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES AROUND HERE WAS CUT BY WATER-POWERED MILLS LIKE THIS. SMALL-SCALE MILLS ARE SLOWER AND MORE LABOR-INTENSIVE THAN MODERN MILLS, BUT THERE'S STILL A STRONG DEMAND FOR THIS MORE EXPENSIVE, BUT TRADITIONALLY-MADE, LOCAL PRODUCT. MILK COWS SPEND THEIR SUMMERS MUNCHING THE WILD HERBS AND FLOWERS IN THE HIGH MEADOWS. THEIR MILK IS DESTINED TO BECOME THE TREASURED ALP CHEESE OR ALPKSE. ALPINE FARMS, DOING THEIR TRADITIONAL WORK, WELCOME HIKERS AND BIKERS FOR A PEEK AT THE CHEESEMAKING ACTION. THIS FARM IS NEWLY RENOVATED TO MEET EUROPEAN UNION STANDARDS. FAILING TO MEET THESE WOULD MEAN THE CHEESE COULD NOT BE EXPORTED. BUT STILL, TRADITIONAL QUALITY SURVIVES ALL THESE MODERN REGULATIONS. EACH MORNING, VERONICA, A LICENSED AND HIGHLY-TRAINED CHEESEMAKER AND HER CREW, MILK THE COWS AND HEAT A COPPER VAT OF MILK OVER A WOOD FIRE. AS IT SLOWLY CURDLES, IT'S STIRRED AT JUST THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE UNTIL THE CONSISTENCY IS EXACTLY HOW VERONICA LIKES IT. AT JUST THE RIGHT MOMENT, SHE SWINGS THE VAT OFF THE FIRE, THEN QUICKLY DREDGES THE VAT WITH HER CHEESECLOTH, AND PACKS THE FRESH CHEESE INTO FRAMES. THIS PROCESS IS REPEATED EVERY DAY FOR 100 DAYS HERE IN THE HIGH COUNTRY. A COW'S UDDER KNOWS NO WEEKEND. IN THE NEXT HUT, YESTERDAY'S CHEESE TAKES A TWO-DAY BATH IN SALT BRINE AND, AFTER A SALTY RUBDOWN, IT'S MARKED ALP CHEESE WITH A DATE AND NUMBER AND SET ON A SHELF TO AGE. EACH VILLAGE TAKES PRIDE IN ITS OWN CHEESE. THIS HUT IS FULL OF LOCAL ALP CHEESE. GUTEN TAG. HELLO. MORGEN. DO YOU SPEAK ENGLISH? A LITTLE BIT. CAN I -- WELL, I SPEAK EIN WENIG DEUTSCH. KANN ICH... ALPKSE? JA GERNE. MCHTEN SIE NEN TESTEN? JA, BITTE. OKAY. SO THIS IS ALPKSE. JA, DAS IST ALP. DAS IST DER OBER ALP. SUPPENALP...JUST UP HERE. ALONG WITH THE YOUNGER ALPKSE, VILLAGE CHEESEMAKERS PRODUCE HOBELKSE, AN OLDER, STRONGER CHEESE, AGED FOR UP TO THREE YEARS. IT'S NAMED AFTER THE HOBEL, OR WOOD PLANE THAT'S USED TO CUT IT. OH, THAT CUTS DIFFERENT. SO THIS IS STRONGER. JA. YES. ES SCHMECKT SEHR GUT. SCHMECKT DA IHNEN? MMM, BESSER. AND YOU CAN BUY IT BY THE WHEEL, WEDGE, OR A WAFER-THIN SLICE TO TAKE WITH YOU ON A HIKE. BESTEN DANK! DANKE SCHN. WIEDERSEHEN! VIELEN DANK. BYE-BYE.

cow bells clanging

Rick

THEY SAY THE CHARACTER OF THE ALP CHEESE IS SHAPED BY THE HERBS AND THE FLOWERS THE COWS MUNCH. SOME LOCALS CLAIM THEY CAN EVEN TELL IN WHICH VALLEY THE COWS GRAZED JUST BY THE TASTE. I CAN'T, BUT THE TASTE IS GREAT. MMM, THAT'S VERY GOOD. THE ONLY RESTAURANT IN TOWN IS AT THE GIMMELWALD PENSION, A MOM-AND-POP AFFAIR SERVING BASIC BUT TASTY ALPINE CUISINE. THE MENU, WHICH OFFERS LOCAL ORGANIC PRODUCE CHANGES WITH WHATEVER THE FARMERS ARE PRODUCING. HOW IS YOUR DINNER? IT'S VERY GOOD. WHAT -- TELL ME ABOUT THIS SAUSAGE. THIS IS ORGANIC VEAL BRATWURST SAUSAGE FROM HERE, FROM GIMMELWALD. OKAY, THE FONDUE HERE -- THIS IS, WHAT KIND OF CHEESE IS HERE? IT'S MIXED CHEESE WITH GRUYERE FROM THE FRENCH WITH WHITE WINE. HOW DO YOU DO IT? YOU MUST START ON THE BOTTOM. ON THE BOTTOM? OKAY. OTHERWISE YOU MUST CLEAN THE POT IN THE KITCHEN. I DON'T WANT TO DO THAT. NO? OKAY, SO WORK.

laughter

cow bell sounds

Rick

I ALWAYS ENJOY A CHANCE TO HEAR TRADITIONAL MUSIC AND UP HERE THAT STARTS WITH COW BELLS.

yodeling chorus

Rick

applause

sound of horn

Rick

HISTORICALLY, YODELING AND ALP HORNS WERE A WAY FOR DISTANT SHEPHERDS, FARMSTEADS AND COMMUNITIES TO COMMUNICATE WITH ONE ANOTHER. THE LONG, LEGATTO, ECHOING TONES JUST SEEMED SO RIGHT HIGH IN THE ALPS.

long, clear note

Rick

GOOD, VERY GOOD.

low note

Rick

FOR BUGLERS, IT'S NOT THAT TOUGH. YOU BUZZ JUST AS YOU WOULD WHEN PLAYING A TRUMPET. SINCE THERE ARE NO KEYS, YOU GET THE SAME NOTES AS A BUGLE.

various notes

laughter and applause

Rick

NEEDLESS TO SAY, THERE WAS NO REQUEST FOR AN ENCORE. ANYONE VISITING THE BERNER OBERLAND PASSES THROUGH THE GRAND OLD RESORT TOWN OF INTERLAKEN. THE REGION'S BUSY TRANSPORTATION HUB, IT'S MOST USEFUL AS A SPRINGBOARD FOR ALPINE THRILLS. INTERLAKEN'S CLASSIC OLD-WORLD HOTELS REMIND VISITORS OF ITS GLORY DAYS. IN THE LATE 1800s, WHEN THE PAINTERS AND POETS OF THE ROMANTIC AGE POPULARIZED THE WONDERS OF THESE MOUNTAINS, THE ALPS BECOME A MAJOR STOP FOR THE WEALTHY ON THEIR GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE. INTERLAKEN BECAME ONE OF THE ORIGINAL ALPINE RESORTS AND GRACIOUS HOTELS WITH BALLROOMS LIKE THIS LINED ITS MAIN STREET. INTERLAKEN'S GLORY DAYS ARE LONG GONE, ITS ELEGANT OLD HOTELS ECLIPSED BY NEW, MORE JET-SETTY RESORTS. TODAY, ITS STREETS ARE FILLED WITH SHOPPING TEMPTATIONS. MONITORS SHOW LIVE PICTURES OF THE VISIBILITY AT FAMOUS PEAKS. IF THE TV SCREEN SHOWS THE SUMMIT IS SOCKED IN, YOU CAN CHOOSE FROM SOME INTERESTING LOWLAND OPTIONS. IN THE 20th CENTURY, SWITZERLAND, FAMOUS FOR ITS NEUTRALITY, BECAME AN ALPINE FORTRESS, HONEYCOMBED WITH UNDERGROUND MILITARY INSTALLATIONS. BEHIND THIS DOOR HIDES AN ARMY HOSPITAL WITH SEVERAL THOUSAND BEDS. ANTICIPATING AN INVASION, SWITZERLAND HAD AIRSTRIPS BURIED IN THE MOUNTAINSIDES AND POP-UP TANK BARRIERS EMBEDDED IN THE FREEWAYS. EVERY STRATEGIC BRIDGE AND TUNNEL, DESIGNED WITH EXPLOSIVES BUILT IN, COULD BE DESTROYED WITH A MOMENT'S NOTICE. MY FRIEND, FRITZ HUTMACHER, WHO JUST FINISHED 20 YEARS IN THE ARMY RESERVE, IS GIVING AWAY A FEW SWISS MILITARY SECRETS. SO SWITZERLAND IS FAMOUS FOR BEING NEUTRAL.

Fritz

YES. BUT OVER THE LAST 70 YEARS, THE ALPS GOT TURNED INTO A HUGE FORTRESS. NOW WE HAVE OVER 15,000 BUILDINGS, LIKE THE ONES AROUND US, WITH HIDDEN GUNS, AND EVEN THE NEIGHBORS, THEY WERE NOT AWARE WHAT'S IN, THEY WERE SO SECRET. 15,000 UNDERGROUND INSTALLATIONS? YES. THIS BARN LOOKS LIKE MANY OTHERS IN SWITZERLAND, BUT IT HIDES A SECRET. LET'S HAVE A LOOK INSIDE.

hinges creaking

Fritz

WOW. LOOK AT THIS THING. WHAT WAS THIS FOR? WHY DID THEY HAVE THIS HERE? IT WAS FOR WORLD WAR II. IT PROTECTED THE FORTRESS, THE ALPS. AND WAS IT USED LATER THAN WORLD WAR II? YES, IT GOT UPDATED OVER THE LAST DECADES AND HAS NEW TECHNOLOGY AND...

Rick

SO ACTUALLY THIS GUN WORKS? THIS GUN WORKS. NOW CHILDREN COULD HAVE GROWN UP RIGHT OUTSIDE THESE DOORS NOT KNOWING THERE WAS A GUN SITTING HERE? NOT ONLY CHILDREN, GENERATIONS WERE NOT AWARE WHAT WAS ACTUALLY INSIDE THESE BUILDINGS. AND THIS IS NOT WOOD! IT LOOKS LIKE WOOD.

Fritz

NO, THAT'S SOLID CONCRETE. IN THIS TOWN, FOUR INNOCENT-LOOKING HAY BARNS CONCEAL A NETWORK OF TUNNELS CONNECTING SEVERAL OF THESE BIG GUNS. WITH THE END OF THE COLD WAR, MANY OF THESE ONCE TOP-SECRET SITES ARE NOW OPEN TO THE PUBLIC AS MUSEUMS. THIS IS THE GUN WE JUST SAW. GUTEN TAG. GUTEN TAG.

speaking German

Rick

SO, FRITZ, FROM HEADQUARTERS THEY WOULD TELL THEM WHAT COORDINATES TO SET.

Fritz

YES, CERTAIN COORDINATES WOULD GET INTO THAT CALCULATOR AND THE GUN GETS ADJUSTED.

Rick

OKAY. A QUICK DEMONSTRATION SHOWS HOW THE GUN WAS PREPPED AND LOADED. THIS IS NOT JUST A MUSEUM PIECE. IT FEELS LIKE IT COULD STILL WORK. YAH, IF WE HAD A LIVE ROUND, WE COULD STILL FIRE IT TODAY. AND THESE WOODEN HOUSES LOOK CHEERY AND VULNERABLE FROM THE OUTSIDE, BUT LIKE NEARLY ALL MODERN SWISS HOUSES, FRITZ'S FAMILY HOME SITS UPON A NO-NONSENSE CONCRETE BOMB SHELTER. THIS IS THE DOOR TO OUR BOMB SHELTER. MAN. SO, HOW MUCH MUST THIS WEIGH? COUPLE OF THOUSAND POUNDS, CONCRETE AND STEEL. IF YOU HAVE A NUCLEAR ATTACK... YOU RUN IN....YOU ALL RUN IN HERE. SWISS MEN ARE REQUIRED TO SPEND TIME IN THE MILITARY, INCLUDING ABOUT 20 YEARS IN THE RESERVE, AND LIKE MINUTEMEN AWAITING AN INVASION, THEY HAVE THEIR GUNS, GAS MASKS AND AMMO READY AND WAITING. WHILE THE SWISS MAY BE READY FOR WAR, THEY SEEM MOST AT PEACE WITH NATURE. FROM TOWNS ON THE VALLEY FLOOR, A TRAIN TAKES TOURISTS AND ADVENTURERS ALIKE TO THE REGION'S ULTIMATE PERCH, THE JUNGFRAUJOCH. THIS BREATHTAKING STATION SITS LIKE A FAIRY CASTLE AT 11,000 FEET, BETWEEN TWO OF THE REGIONS' HIGHEST PEAKS. THE WEATHER'S USUALLY BETTER IN THE EARLY MORNING. WE'RE ON THE FIRST TRAIN. TOWERING HIGH ABOVE, ARE THE JUNGFRAU, MONCH AND EIGER PEAKS. NAMED FOR THE LEGEND OF THE YOUNG MAIDEN, JUNGFRAU, BEING PROTECTED BY THE MONK, OR MONCH, FROM THE OGRE, OR EIGER. CONTINUING ON, WE CHANGED TRAINS AT KLEINE SCHEIDEGG, A RAIL JUNCTION AT THE BASE OF THESE PEAKS. IT HAS SHOPS, RUSTIC BEDS AND HEARTY FOOD FOR HIKERS. THIS IS THE JUMPING-OFF POINT FOR ROCK CLIMBERS ATTEMPTING TO SCALE THE FOREBODING NORTH FACE OF THE EIGER. THIS TRAIN INCREDIBLY TUNNELS THROUGH THE INSIDE OF THE EIGER ON ITS SLOW, YET EXHILARATING CLIMB TO THE LITERAL HIGH POINT OF ANY TRIP TO THE SWISS ALPS, THE JUNGFRAUJOCH. SWISS ENGINEERS DUG THIS TUNNEL AND BUILT THIS RAILWAY OVER A HUNDRED YEARS AGO. WHY? BECAUSE THEY COULD AND FOR THE VIEWING PLEASURE OF THOSE 19TH CENTURY ROMANTIC-AGE VISITORS. HALFWAY UP THE EIGER, THE TRAIN STOPS AT PANORAMA WINDOWS ROCK CLIMBERS CAN EXIT HERE INTO AN UNFORGIVING WORLD OF ICE AND AIR. AFTER ANOTHER SHORT TUNNEL RIDE, YOU EMERGE AT 11,000 FEET, THE TOP OF EUROPE. SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF MAJESTIC PEAKS STRETCH AS FAR AS YOU CAN SEE. CRADLED AMONGST THESE GIANTS, YOU UNDERSTAND THE TIMELESS ALLURE OF THE SWISS ALPS. AN ELEVATOR CARRIES YOU TO THE HIGHEST VIEWING POINT. FROM THERE YOU CAN SEE ALETCH GLACIER, EUROPE'S LONGEST, STRETCHING 11 MILES SOUTH TOWARDS ITALY. THE AIR IS THIN. PEOPLE ARE IN GIDDY MOODS. IT'S COLD EVEN ON A SUNNY DAY. WHILE THE JUNGFRAUJOCH STATION CALLS ITSELF THE TOP OF EUROPE, IT'S POSSIBLE TO VENTURE EVEN HIGHER. THERE'S A HUT JUST UP THE HILL, AND I'M HEADED THERE FOR ANOTHER VIEW AND SOME HOT CHOCOLATE. THANKS FOR JOINING US. I'M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'. AUF WIEDERSEHEN. JA, GUTEN TAG.

Woman

GUTEN TAG. GUTEN TAG. GUTEN... YOU CAN PUT THAT BACK UP THERE, THANK YOU.

laughs

Woman

...WITH MY WIFE TOGETHER WE SHARED THE ONLY TEACHING POSITION.