I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, WE'RE IN THE NORTH OF EUROPE,
EXPLORING TWO GREAT CAPITALS ON THE BALTIC SEA --
TALLINN AND HELSINKI.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
HELSINKI AND TALLINN EACH SUFFERED THROUGH
A CHALLENGING 20th CENTURY,
BUT TODAY, BOTH ARE ENJOYING GOOD TIMES.
LONG-TIME BALTIC COUSINS,
FINNS TRAVEL TO TALLINN FOR AFFORDABLE R&R,
AND PEOPLE IN ESTONIA WATCHED HELSINKI TV
ALL THROUGH THE COLD WAR TO AT LEAST KNOW WHAT
FREEDOM AND PROSPERITY LOOKED LIKE
BACK WHEN THEY DIDN'T HAVE IT.
IN HELSINKI, WE'LL STROLL WITH FINNS ON THEIR GRAND ESPLANADE,
EXPLORE "THE GIBRALTAR OF THE NORTH,"
VISIT BOTH OF HELSINKI'S ICONIC CATHEDRALS,
SIMMER IN A SAUNA,
AND CRUISE THE ISLANDS OF HELSINKI'S HARBOR.
THEN WE'LL CROSS THE BALTIC TO ESTONIA
AND STROLL TALLINN'S REMARKABLY PRESERVED OLD TOWN,
RELAX IN THE GARDENS OF A RUSSIAN PALACE,
CHECK OUT SOCIAL REALISM ESTONIAN-STYLE,
AND LEARN HOW ESTONIANS SANG THEIR WAY
TO FREEDOM FROM THE SOVIET UNION.
IN THE NORTH OF EUROPE,
THE BALTIC SEA IS RINGED BY RUSSIA,
THE BALTIC NATIONS, AND THE SCANDINAVIAN NATIONS.
WE START IN FINLAND'S CAPITAL, HELSINKI,
AND THEN FERRY TO ESTONIAN'S CAPITAL, TALLINN.
HELSINKI IS THE ONLY EUROPEAN CAPITAL WITH NO MEDIEVAL PAST.
IT WAS FOUNDED AND RULED BY THE SWEDES IN THE 16th CENTURY
TO BE A STRATEGIC BALTIC PORT,
BUT THE LOCATION WAS POOR,
AND IT NEVER AMOUNTED TO MORE THAN A VILLAGE.
THEN, IN THE 18th CENTURY, THE SWEDES BUILT
A HUGE FORTRESS IN THE HARBOR, AND HELSINKI GREW AND PROSPERED.
TODAY, WITH OVER HALF A MILLION PEOPLE,
HELSINKI IS BY FAR FINLAND'S LEADING CITY.
IN SPITE OF ITS SWEDISH ROOTS, OLD HELSINKI FEELS RUSSIAN.
THAT'S BECAUSE WHEN THE RUSSIANS TOOK OVER FINLAND IN 1809,
THEY MADE IT FINLAND'S CAPITAL,
MODELED AFTER THEIR CAPITAL, ST. PETERSBURG --
STONE BUILDINGS, WHITE TRIM, AND NEO-CLASSICAL COLUMNS.
SINCE DOWNTOWN HELSINKI WASN'T BUILT UNTIL THE 1800s,
IT WAS MORE LOGICALLY DESIGNED AND LAID-OUT THAN
OTHER EUROPEAN CAPITALS.
HELSINKI'S GRAND BOULEVARD, THEESPLANADI,
PROVIDES WIDE AND INVITING SIDEWALKS FOR SHOPPERS
AND A PEOPLE-FRIENDLY PARK UP THE MIDDLE.
THE CITY SEEMS DESIGNED TO PROMOTE A SENSE OF COMMUNITY,
AND ON WARM SUMMER DAYS, PEOPLE TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE.
CAFE KAPPELI IS AN OLD-WORLD OASIS OF COFFEE AND RELAXATION.
IN THE 19th CENTURY, THIS WAS A POPULAR HANGOUT
FOR RUSSIAN OFFICERS,
LOCAL INTELLECTUALS, AND ARTISTS.
THE BANDSTAND FEATURES LIVE MUSIC
ALMOST DAILY IN THE SUMMER.
THE ARRIVAL OF CRUISE SHIPS, SLIDING THROUGH TIGHT PASSAGES
BETWEEN HELSINKI'S SURROUNDING ISLANDS,
ENERGIZES THE CITY EACH DAY.
MOST TRAVELERS ARRIVE BY CRUISE SHIP.
THE TOWERING VIKING AND SILJA SHIPS
ARE EACH FLOATING HOTELS FOR THE THOUSANDS MAKING
THE SCENIC ISLAND-STUDDED TRIP FROM STOCKHOLM.
HOPPING OFF THEIR BOAT, VISITORS HEAD DIRECTLY
FOR HELSINKI'S DELIGHTFUL AND VIBRANT HARBOR SQUARE.
EXPLORE THE COLORFUL OUTDOOR MARKET --
PART SOUVENIRS AND CRAFTS: AND PART VEGGIES AND FRUIT.
THE STRAWBERRIES HERE ARE FAMOUS.
THEY ARE FAMOUS, YEAH.
THEY ARE VERY NICE ONES,
AND THESE ONES ARE GROWN ON THE ISLAND, SO...
CAN I TRY ONE?
AND ORGANIC, FROM THE ISLAND?
YEAH, REALLY NICE ONES.
NO PESTICIDES, SERIOUSLY.
I'LL HAVE A LITTLE BOX, PLEASE.
THE MARKET IS THE PLACE FOR THE MOST CASUAL,
QUICK-AND-CHEAP LUNCH IN TOWN.
THE SALMON GRILLS ARE A FAVORITE.
EVERYONE FROM THE FINNISH PRESIDENT
ON DOWN TO VISITING TOURISTS: STOPS BY FOR A DASH OF LOCAL FLAVOR.
WHILE HELSINKI'S HISTORY IS SHORT,
MONUMENTS TO IT ARE EVERYWHERE.
THE CZARINA'S STONE,
WITH ITS DOUBLE-HEADED EAGLE OF IMPERIAL RUSSIA,
WAS ERECTED IN 1835 TO CELEBRATE THE VISIT
BY CZAR NICHOLAS AND CZARINA ALEXANDRA.
THIS FOUNTAIN HAS BECOME A SYMBOL OF HELSINKI,
THE CITY NICK-NAMED THE "DAUGHTER OF THE BALTIC."
THE VOLUPTUOUS FIGURE,
MODELED AFTER THE ARTIST'S PARISIAN MISTRESS,
WAS A SCANDAL IN ITS MORE PURITAN DAY.
A SHORT FERRY RIDE TAKES US ACROSS THE HARBOR TO HELSINKI'S
MOST IMPORTANT SITE.
SUOMENLINNA, AN ISLAND GUARDING HELSINKI'S HARBOR,
SERVED AS A STRATEGIC FORTRESS FOR THREE COUNTRIES --
SWEDEN, RUSSIA, AND THEN FINLAND.
IT'S NOW A POPULAR PARK WITH A FASCINATING STORY.
THE FORTRESS WAS BUILT BY THE SWEDES
WITH FRENCH FINANCIAL SUPPORT IN THE MID-1700s
TO COUNTER RUSSIA'S RISE TO POWER.
RUSSIA'S PETER THE GREAT HAD JUST BUILT
HIS NEW CAPITAL, ST. PETERSBURG,
NEARBY ON THE BALTIC, AND HE WAS
EYEING THE WEST.
THINK OF IT AS EUROPEAN SUPERPOWER CHESS.
THE RUSSIANS MOVED TO ST. PETERSBURG.
THE FRENCH COUNTERED BY MOVING A SWEDISH CASTLE
HERE TO HELSINKI, STOPPING THE RUSSIAN OFFENSIVE,
AT LEAST FOR THE TIME BEING.
THE FORTRESS WAS SWEDEN'S MILITARY PRIDE AND JOY.
WITH FIVE MILES OF WALLS AND HUNDREDS OF CANNON,
IT WAS THE SECOND-MIGHTIEST FORT OF ITS KIND IN EUROPE
AFTER GIBRALTAR.
BUILT BY MORE THAN 10,000 WORKERS,
THE FORT WAS A HUGE INVESTMENT
AND STIMULATED LOTS OF INNOVATION.
IN THE 1760s, THIS WAS THE WORLD'S BIGGEST
AND MOST MODERN DRY DOCK.
AFTER THE CONSTRUCTION OF THIS FORT,
THE VILLAGE OF HELSINKI BECAME A BOOM TOWN SUPPORTING
THIS GRAND "GIBRALTAR OF THE NORTH."
TODAY, SUOMENLINNA IS MOST APPRECIATED BY LOCALS
FOR ITS SCENIC STROLLS.
EXPLORE THE PARK.
THERE ARE RAMPARTS TO RAMBLE: AND CANNON TO PONDER.
CAFES NESTLE IN THE SHADE OF THE WALLS.
YOU'LL FIND FINNS ON THE ROCKS
AND FAMILIES ENJOYING THEIR HUMBLE BEACH.
BACK IN TOWN, HELSINKI'S SENATE SQUARE,
WITH THE LUTHERAN CATHEDRAL AS ITS CENTERPIECE,
IS ONE OF THE FINEST NEOCLASSICAL SQUARES
IN ALL OF EUROPE.
THE BUILDINGS WHICH FORMED THE ORIGINAL SQUARE
BURNED DOWN IN 1808.
THEN, AFTER FINLAND BECAME PART OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE,
THE CZAR SENT IN HIS LEADING ARCHITECT,
CARL ENGEL, TO REBUILD THE SQUARE
AND GIVE IT THE STATURE AND ELEGANCE IT HAS TODAY.
THIS STATUE HONORS RUSSIAN CZAR ALEXANDER II.
WHILE NOT POPULAR IN RUSSIA -- IN FACT, HE WAS
EVENTUALLY ASSASSINATED -- FINNS LIKED HIM.
HE GAVE FINLAND MORE AUTONOMY IN 1863
AND NEVER PUSHED THE RUSSIFICATION OF FINLAND.
THE STAIRCASE LEADING UP TO THE CATHEDRAL
IS A POPULAR MEETING AND TANNING SPOT.
THIS IS WHERE STUDENTS FROM THE NEARBY UNIVERSITY GATHER
AND COUPLES MEET.
WITH ITS STATELY DOME AND STATUES OF 12 APOSTLES,
THE LUTHERAN CATHEDRAL OVERLOOKS THE CITY AND HARBOR.
FINISHED IN 1852, ITS AUSTERITY IS STRIKING.
I LIKE TO TAKE A MOMENT,
SURROUNDED BY FINLAND'S GREAT REFORMERS,
TO SAVOR NEOCLASSICAL SIMPLICITY.
PHYSICALLY, THIS CHURCH SEEMS PERFECTLY PROTESTANT,
UNADORNED, WITH THE EMPHASIS ON TWO THINGS --
PREACHING, WITH ITS PROMINENT PULPIT,
AND MUSIC, WITH ITS GRAND ORGAN.
STATUARY IS LIMITED TO THE REFORMATION BIG-SHOTS --
MARTIN LUTHER,
PHILIP MELANCHTHON, LUTHER'S INTELLECTUAL SIDEKICK,
AND THE LEADING FINNISH REFORMER,
MIKAEL AGRICOLA.
A FOLLOWER OF LUTHER IN GERMANY,
AGRICOLA BROUGHT THE REFORMATION HERE TO FINLAND.
HE ALSO TRANSLATED THE BIBLE INTO FINNISH.
AGRICOLA'S BIBLE IS TO FINLAND
WHAT THE LUTHER BIBLE IS TO GERMANY
AND THE KING JAMES BIBLE IS TO THE ENGLISH-SPEAKING WORLD.
NEARBY, ALSO OVERLOOKING HELSINKI,
IS THE ORTHODOX USPENSKI CATHEDRAL.
IT FACES THE LUTHERAN CATHEDRAL
MUCH AS RUSSIAN CULTURE FACES EUROPE.
BUILT IN 1868 FOR THE RUSSIANS
BACK WHEN FINLAND BELONGED TO RUSSIA,
ITS MAIN DOME REPRESENTS THE SACRED HEART OF JESUS,
WHILE THE SMALLER ONES REPRESENT THE HEARTS OF THE 12 APOSTLES.
TODAY, THIS IS THE SPIRITUAL HOME OF
THE CITY'S FINNISH ORTHODOX COMMUNITY.
ITS INTERIOR OFFERS A RICH EXPERIENCE.
ICONS OF SAINTS OVERSEE FLICKERING CANDLES
WHICH REPRESENT PRAYERS OF THE ORTHODOX FAITHFUL.
THESE PLUSH EASTERN IMAGES ARE A STARK CONTRAST
TO THE SPARE LUTHERAN CATHEDRAL.
HELSINKI IS SET IN A NATURAL WONDERLAND,
AND HOPPING A TOUR BOAT FOR A 90-MINUTE CRUISE
MAKES THAT VERY CLEAR.
THE SEVERAL HUNDRED ISLANDS OF ITS ARCHIPELAGO
PROVIDE A DELIGHTFUL PLAYGROUND.
LEAVING THE HARBOR,
YOU PASS MIGHTY ICE BREAKERS IN THEIR SUMMER SLUMBER.
WITH THE CAPACITY TO BREAK THROUGH 15 FEET OF ICE,
THEY'RE A REMINDER OF THE BITTER BALTIC WINTERS.
LONELY CABINS CAP GLACIER-GROUND GRANITE.
FINNS ARE GOOD AT GETTING THE MOST OUT OF
THE LONG DAYS OF THEIR SHORT SUMMER.
MANY HAVE FAMILY CABINS HERE,
AND A STANDARD FEATURE IS A FREE-STANDING SAUNA.
BUT YOU DON'T NEED A CABIN TO ENJOY A SAUNA.
AT THIS NEIGHBORHOOD SAUNA, THE REGULARS GATHER DAILY.
EACH MORNING, THE WOOD FIRE IS STOKED.
THAT AFTERNOON, IN PARALLEL FACILITIES,
MEN AND WOMEN COME TO RELAX.
FOR THE FINNS, THE SAUNA IS A LIFESTYLE.
POPULAR YEAR-ROUND, IT'S ESPECIALLY APPEALING
IN THE LONG, COLD WINTERS.
BUCKETS OF ICY WATER: ARE GREAT FOR DOUSING WHEN YOU GET TOO HOT.
FINNS CLAIM THAT BUNDLES OF BIRCH TWIGS
ENHANCE THE EXPERIENCE --: INCREASING CIRCULATION, OPENING YOUR PORES,
AND SPRITZING THE AIR WITH A WONDERFUL BIRCH AROMA.
CAP THE EXPERIENCE RELAXING WITH THE LOCAL GANG
ON THE SIDEWALK JUST OUTSIDE.
PUBLIC TRAMS CAN SERVE AS A HANDY VEHICLE FOR A BUDGET,
DO-IT-YOURSELF TOUR.
HELSINKI'S TRAM NUMBER THREE MAKES A SCENIC CITY LOOP.
IT RUNS EVERY FEW MINUTES, TICKETS ARE
GOOD FOR AN HOUR, AND ITS GREAT FOR
HOPPING ON AND OFF TO SIGHT-SEE.
THE TRAIN STATION WAS BUILT IN THE EARLY 1900s.
ITS STERN FIGURES WITH LAMPS RECALL A TIME
WHEN THIS CITY PROVIDED LIGHT
TO A MOSTLY RURAL NATION,
AND THE REST OF THE WORLD SEEMED VERY FAR AWAY.
A COUPLE STOPS AWAY IS THE CITY'S MAIN SHOPPING DRAG.
THE THREE BLACKSMITHS STATUE HAS STOOD HERE SINCE 1932.
LOCALS SAY IT CELEBRATES HUMAN LABOR AND COOPERATION AND SHOWS
THE SOLID CHARACTER OF THE FINNISH PEOPLE.
FINLAND STOOD COURAGEOUSLY STRONG AGAINST THE SOVIET UNION
AND ARTFULLY MAINTAINED ITS INDEPENDENCE
THROUGH THE COLD WAR.
TODAY, TUCKED UP HERE IN THE FAR NORTH CORNER OF EUROPE,
THIS CITY SEEMS TO CELEBRATE BOTH PEACE AND CULTURE.
600 STAINLESS-STEEL PIPES, SHIMMERING IN A PARK,
HONOR FINLAND'S GREATEST COMPOSER,
JEAN SIBELIUS.
THE MONUMENT IS BUILT ON SOLID ROCK, AS IS SO MUCH OF FINLAND.
SIBELIUS, WHO COMPOSED IN THE LATE 19th CENTURY
AND EARLY 20th, WROTE MUSIC THAT STIRRED THE NATIONAL SOUL.
HIS MUSIC, LIKE PAINTINGS BY FINLAND'S
ROMANTIC ARTISTS HANGING IN THE NATIONAL GALLERY,
EVOKES THE VAST FOREST LAND,
MYTHIC LEGENDS,
DEEP PAGAN ROOTS,
AND HEROIC STRUGGLES OF A STOIC NATION.
MUSIC AND ART THAT IS UNIQUELY FINNISH CONTRIBUTE TO
THE STAYING POWER OF THIS SMALL COUNTRY OF FIVE MILLION.
A SELECTION OF FERRIES MAKE THE 50-MILE CROSSING
BETWEEN HELSINKI AND TALLINN NEARLY HOURLY.
BECAUSE OF THE EASE OF THIS DELIGHTFUL TWO-HOUR CRUISE,
AND THE VARIETY A QUICK TRIP OVER TO ESTONIA
ADDS TO YOUR NORDIC TRAVELS,
PAIRING HELSINKI AND TALLINN IS A NATURAL.
STEPPING OFF THE BOAT IN TALLINN,
THE CAPITAL OF ESTONIA,
YOU FEEL YOU'VE TRAVELED A LONG WAY CULTURALLY FROM FINLAND.
IT'S A MIX OF EAST AND WEST.
TALLINN'S NORDIC LUTHERAN CULTURE AND LANGUAGE
CONNECT IT WITH STOCKHOLM AND HELSINKI,
BUT TWO CENTURIES OF CZARIST RUSSIAN RULE
AND NEARLY 50 YEARS AS PART OF THE SOVIET UNION
HAVE BLENDED IN A DISTINCTLY RUSSIAN FLAVOR.
FINNS AND ESTONIANS SHARE A SIMILAR HISTORY --
FIRST SWEDISH DOMINATION, THEN RUSSIAN,
THEN INDEPENDENCE AFTER WORLD WAR I.
UNTIL 1940, THE ESTONIANS WERE
ABOUT AS AFFLUENT AS THE FINNS,
BUT THEN ESTONIA WAS GOBBLED UP BY
AN EXPANDING SOVIET EMPIRE AND SPENT THE DECADES
AFTER WORLD WAR II UNDER COMMUNISM.
WITH THE U.S.S.R. FELL, ESTONIA REGAINED ITS FREEDOM,
AND IN 2004, IT JOINED THE EUROPEAN UNION.
TALLINN HAS MODERNIZED AT AN ASTOUNDING RATE
SINCE THE FALL OF THE SOVIET UNION.
ITS BUSINESS DISTRICT SHINES WITH THE SAME
GLASS-AND-STEEL GLEAM YOU'LL FIND IN ANY MODERN CITY,
YET NEARBY ARE THE RUGGED: AND FULLY INTACT MEDIEVAL WALLS,
AND THE TOWN WITHIN THESE RAMPARTS
HAS A BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED OLD-WORLD AMBIENCE.
AMONG MEDIEVAL CITIES IN THE NORTH OF EUROPE,
NONE ARE AS WELL-PRESERVED AS TALLINN.
THE TOWN HALL SQUARE WAS A MARKETPLACE
THROUGH THE CENTURIES.
ITS FINE OLD BUILDINGS ARE A REMINDER THAT TALLINN
WAS ONCE AN IMPORTANT MEDIEVAL TRADING CENTER.
TODAY IT'S A TOURISTY SCENE: FULL OF PEOPLE JUST HAVING FUN.
THROUGH THE SEASON EACH MID-DAY,
CRUISE-SHIP GROUPS CONGEST THE CENTER
AS THEY BLITZ THE TOWN IN THE CARE OF LOCAL GUIDES.
LIKE MANY TOURIST ZONES,
TALLINN'S IS A COMMERCIAL GAUNTLET.
HERE, THERE'S A HOKEY TORTURE MUSEUM,
STROLLING RUSSIAN DOLLS,
MEDIEVAL THEME RESTAURANTS COMPLETE WITH TOUTS,
AND ENTHUSIASTIC HAWKERS OF YE OLDE TASTE TREATS.
BUT JUST A COUPLE BLOCKS AWAY IS,
FOR ME, THE REAL ATTRACTION OF TALLINN --
WORK-A-DAY LOCALS ENJOYING REAL FREEDOM
AND BETTER ECONOMIC TIMES.
STILL-RAMSHACKLE COURTYARDS HOST INVITING CAFES.
BISTROS SERVE ORGANIC CUISINE IN A CHIC PATINA
OF OLD WORLD MEETS NEW.
AND JUST OUTSIDE THE WALLS,
IT SEEMS THERE'S NO TOURISM AT ALL.
UNDER TOWERING RAMPARTS, THE FORMER MOAT
IS NOW A PARK, PERFECT FOR A WARM AFTERNOON STROLL.
IN THE 15th CENTURY, TALLINN CONSISTED OF
TWO FEUDING MEDIEVAL TOWNS.
THE UPPER TOWN, ON A HILL CALLED TOOMPEA,
IS FROM WHERE THE COUNTRY OF ESTONIA HAS LONG BEEN RULED.
THE LOWER TOWN WAS AN INDEPENDENT CITY.
AS A MEMBER OF THE HANSEATIC TRADING LEAGUE,
IT WAS AN ECONOMIC POWER HERE IN THE BALTIC WORLD.
THIS THRIVING PORT TOWN WAS FILLED
WITH MOSTLY GERMAN MERCHANTS: WHO HIRED ESTONIANS TO DO THEIR MENIAL LABOR.
THE OLD TOWN FEELS GERMANIC, WITH STREETS LINED BY
THE FANCY FACADES OF THOSE 15th-CENTURY BIG-SHOT MERCHANTS.
THIS MERCHANT'S HOME FUNCTIONED AS
HIS WAREHOUSE AND OFFICE AS WELL.
ITS ELABORATELY CARVED DOOR EVOKES THE WEALTH
OF TALLINN'S BUSINESS CLASS IN THOSE DAYS.
STAIRS LEAD FROM THE LOWER OLD TOWN
INTO THE FORTIFIED UPPER TOWN, TOOMPEA.
CLIMBING INTO ESTONIA'S HISTORIC CAPITAL,
IT'S CLEAR THE ARCHITECTURE TELLS A STORY.
NEIGHBORING RUSSIA HAS ALWAYS LOOMED LARGE AND THREATENING
OVER LITTLE ESTONIA.
THE ALEXANDER NEVSKY CATHEDRAL WAS BUILT HERE
BY RUSSIANS IN 1900.
WHILE A BEAUTIFUL BUILDING,
MOST ESTONIANS DON'T LIKE THIS CHURCH.
IT WAS BUILT TO FACE: THE ESTONIAN PARLIAMENT BUILDING,
CLEARLY DESIGNED TO FLEX RUSSIAN CULTURAL MUSCLES
DURING A PERIOD OF ESTONIAN NATIONAL REVIVAL.
THIS TOWER SURVIVES FROM THE ORIGINAL TOOMPEA CASTLE.
NICKNAMED "TALL HERMANN," IT'S A POWERFUL SYMBOL HERE.
FOR 50 YEARS, THROUGHOUT THE COLD WAR,
ESTONIAN FLAGS WERE HIDDEN AWAY
AND THE SOVIET FLAG FLEW FROM ATOP THIS TOWER.
THEN, AS THE U.S.S.R. WAS UNRAVELING,
ESTONIANS PROUDLY AND DEFIANTLY REPLACED
THE RED SOVIET FLAG WITH THEIR OWN.
TODAY, WHILE TOOMPEA IS FILLED
WITH ESTONIAN GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS,
IT'S ALSO SIMPLY A PLEASANT PLACE TO STROLL AND ENJOY
SOME ROMANTIC VIEWPOINTS.
RUSSIA'S INFLUENCE OVER ESTONIA
GOES BACK LONG BEFORE THE SOVIET UNION.
WHEN RUSSIA TOOK OVER ESTONIA IN 1710,
CZAR PETER THE GREAT BUILT THE STATELY KADRIORG PALACE
FOR HIS CZARINA, CATHERINE.
THE CZARINA'S PRIVATE GARDEN: IS NOW TALLINN'S FINEST PUBLIC PARK --
THE STANDARD PROGRESSION AS DIVINE MONARCHIES
GIVE WAY TO MODERN DEMOCRACIES.
AND THE FORMER GUARDHOUSE: NOW SERVES COFFEE TO COMMONERS.
THE LEADING SITE WITHIN THE PARK IS THE KUMU ART MUSEUM,
ESTONIA'S STRIKING NATIONAL GALLERY,
OPENED WITH PRIDE AND FANFARE IN 2006.
WHILE ESTONIAN ART EVOLVED IN STEP WITH THE REST OF EUROPE,
IT WAS ALSO SHAPED ALONG THE WAY BY THE NATION'S HISTORY.
FOR INSTANCE, 19th-CENTURY ROMANTICISM
WAS THE ARTISTIC STYLE OF ESTONIA'S
ARISTOCRATIC GERMAN LANDLORDS WHO ENJOYED ART
FEATURING IDYLLIC ESTONIAN PEASANT WOMEN
IN FOLK COSTUMES AND IDEALIZED SETTINGS.
LOCAL ARTISTS CONTINUED TO PAINT
IN SYNC WITH EUROPEAN STYLES, FROM IMPRESSIONISM
THROUGH CUBISM AND SO ON.
BUT ESTONIAN ART PARTED WAYS WITH WESTERN EUROPE
AFTER THE SOVIET TAKEOVER IN 1945
WHICH BROUGHT THE END OF ARTISTIC FREEDOM.
THE SOVIETS INSISTED ON ONE KIND OF ART --
SOCIAL REALISM.
THIS WAS BEYOND CENSORSHIP.
ART HAD TO ACTIVELY PROMOTE THE COMMUNIST STRUGGLE.
THE ESTONIAN ARTISTS UNION WAS FORCED TO RENOUNCE
INDIVIDUAL EXPRESSION AND BE RE-EDUCATED.
THE STALINIST FORMULA -- "NATIONAL IN STYLE
BUT SOCIALIST IN CONTENT."
PAINTERS PRODUCED THEMES LIKE THIS,
TITLED, "EXCELLENT YOUNG COMMUNIST WORKERS."
INDUSTRY WAS CELEBRATED.
MINING WAS BIG IN ESTONIA,
SO MINERS WERE PORTRAYED AS HEROES,
MARCHING LIKE SOLDIERS TO THEIR GLORIOUS WORK.
SOVIET WOMEN WERE SHOWN NOT AS THE IDYLLIC CLICHE
OF TRADITIONAL MOTHERHOOD BUT AS STRONG LABORERS,
WORKING SIDE BY SIDE WITH MEN.
THEY WERE ENTIRELY ENGAGED IN THE QUEST
TO REACH THE COMMUNIST IDEAL.
HERE, A WOMAN OVERSEES
THE BOLSTERING OF AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTION.
POSTERS WERE A NATURAL FIT FOR SOCIAL REALISM.
THEY COULD BE MASS-PRODUCED.
THEY GENERALLY CAME WITH A PROCLAMATION.
THIS ONE READS, "IT'S GOOD TO WORK HARD
AND BUY GOVERNMENT BONDS."
AND THEY CARRIED THE PROPAGANDA MESSAGE
TO EVERY CORNER OF SOCIETY.
IN THE 1960s, THINGS BEGAN TO CHANGE.
MANY ESTONIAN ARTISTS TOOK A MORE INDEPENDENT
AND AVANT GARDE APPROACH,
INJECTING HINTS OF SOCIAL COMMENTARY INTO THEIR WORK.
THIS ANGERED KHRUSHCHEV,
AND MANY OF THESE ARTISTS ENDED UP IN SIBERIA.
BUT AS THE SOVIETS WOULD EVENTUALLY LEARN,
CHANGE WAS UNSTOPPABLE.
WESTERN IDEALS BEGAN TO INFILTRATE.
ESTONIA WAS THE ONLY PART OF THE U.S.S.R.
WHERE POP ART WAS RECOGNIZED.
PAINTERS FEATURED UTOPIAN SCENES
VIEWED THROUGH THE EYES OF ALIENATED URBANITES.
ARTISTS FLIRTED WITH THE PSYCHEDELIC
AS A NEW GENERATION CAME OF AGE.
LOCAL GUIDE MATI RUMESSEN, WHO GREW UP UNDER COMMUNISM
AND DID HIS MILITARY SERVICE AS A DRIVER IN THE SOVIET ARMY,
IS JOINING ME TO HELP US BETTER UNDERSTAND THE CHALLENGES
OF LIVING 50 YEARS UNDER THE SOVIETS.
Rumessen: I REMEMBER WHEN VIRU HOTEL
WAS THE ONLY SKYSCRAPER CITY,
AND BECAUSE KGB WAS VERY CURIOUS OF
EVERY WORD SPOKEN BY FOREIGN TOURISTS,
WE HAD A LOCAL JOKE THAT THE HOUSE WAS BUILT
FROM A SOVIET WONDER MATERIAL,
SO-CALLED "MICRO-CONCRETE," WHICH WOULD BE
60% CONCRETE AND ABOUT 40% OF MICROPHONES.
Steves: TALLINN'S VAST AND BLOCKY SUBURB OF LASNAMAE,
WITH ABOUT 90,000 APARTMENT FLATS,
DATES BACK TO COMMUNIST TIMES.
THE SOVIETS ATTEMPTED TO RUSSIFY ESTONIA BY PLANTING
OR MOVING PEOPLE INTO THIS COUNTRY.
BECAUSE OF THAT, ABOUT A QUARTER OF
ALL TALLINNERS ARE ETHNIC RUSSIANS.
AND, AS IS CLEAR AT THIS PREDOMINANTLY RUSSIAN MARKET,
THE PLANTATION OF PEOPLE --: AS IT SEEMS IS ALWAYS THE CASE
WHEN GOVERNMENTS MOVE PEOPLE FOR POLITICAL PURPOSES --
LEAVES A POORER AND STRUGGLING ETHNIC MINORITY,
AND THEIR RELUCTANCE TO ASSIMILATE
LEAVES LONG-TERM SOCIAL CHALLENGES.
NEARBY IS THE STAGE FROM WHERE THE PEOPLE OF ESTONIA
GATHERED TO DEMAND THEIR INDEPENDENCE.
THE SONG FESTIVAL GROUNDS,
WHICH HOSTS MASSIVE CHORAL FESTIVALS,
IS A UNIQUELY ESTONIAN INSTITUTION.
THIS IS A NATIONAL MONUMENT BECAUSE OF
THE STIRRING ROLE IT PLAYED: IN ESTONIA'S FIGHT FOR INDEPENDENCE.
WITH ONLY A MILLION PEOPLE,
LODGED BETWEEN RUSSIA AND GERMANY,
AND WITHOUT A STRONG MILITARY,
ESTONIANS ASSERTED THEMSELVES WITH SONG.
[ SINGING IN ESTONIAN ] THEY SAY BEING TOGETHER AND SINGING TOGETHER
WAS THEIR POWER.
300,000 ESTONIANS GATHERING HERE TO SING TOGETHER.
YEAH, ONE DAY IN 1988,
1/3 OF ESTONIAN NATION GATHERED HERE TO SING,
TO SING ABOUT THE FREEDOM, ABOUT THE INDEPENDENCE,
TO SHOW TO THE REST OF THE WORLD
AND ESPECIALLY TO THE SOVIET SIDE THAT
WE ARE TIRED TO BE ONE PART OF THE SOVIET SYSTEM,
AND, AS WE CAN SEE NOW, ALMOST 20 YEARS LATER,
THAT IT WAS SUCCESSFUL.
Steves: TALLINN'S MUSEUM OF THE OCCUPATION
ROUNDS OUT THE STORY.
SUITCASES ARE A REMINDER OF PEOPLE WHO FLED THE COUNTRY,
LEAVING EVERYTHING BEHIND.
DISPLAYS SHOW HOW RUSSIANS: MANAGED TO KEEP THE ESTONIANS IN LINE.
SURVEILLANCE WAS A PART OF DAILY LIFE.
PRISON DOORS EVOKE THE COUNTLESS LIVES LOST IN DETENTION
AND DEPORTATION.
AND THE COMMUNIST LEADERS WHO ONCE LORDED OVER
THE ESTONIAN PEOPLE ARE NOW: IN THE BASEMENT GUARDING THE TOILETS.
WITH FREEDOM, TALLINN HAS JOINED HELSINKI
AS A VIBRANT AND WELCOMING DESTINATION.
EACH HAS A UNIQUE CHARM --: HELSINKI, WITH ITS THRIVING ESPLANADE,
STRIKING NEO-CLASSICAL DESIGN,
AND ISLAND ESCAPES,
AND TALLINN, WITH ITS MEDIEVAL OLD TOWN
WITNESSING THE EMERGENCE OF A NEW PROSPERITY.
WHILE TALLINN AND HELSINKI EACH HAVE THEIR OWN STORY,
TRAVELING HERE, WE SHARE IN THE GOOD TIMES
OF TWO RESILIENT AND FLOURISHING NATIONS.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.
AS A MEMBER OF THE HANSEATIC TRADING LEAGUE,
IT WAS A POWER HERE IN THE ECONOMIC WORLD.
[ LAUGHS ]
YOU, SIR, YOU WANT TO HAVE A TASTE.
COME AND HAVE A TASTE.
ALL I WANT YOU TO DO IS SAY HI TO THE CAMERA.
Men: HI!
SAY, "COME TO TALLINN."
COME TO TALLINN, TALLINN.
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