Hey.
I'm Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe.
This time, we're in Iceland, in Reykjavk, about to head off on perhaps Europe's most epic road trip, Iceland's Ring Road.
Thanks for joining us!
From here in downtown Reykjavk, we'll drive 800 miles all the way around Iceland's Ring Road.
Which highway?
Highway 1, of course.
You can't get lost.
Over half the island's population lives in or near the capital, Reykjavk.
It's a fun city with plenty to see and experience.
but that's another show.
For Ring Road trippers, this city is the starting and ending point of a week-long adventure.
Leaving Reykjavk's suburban sprawl, it's striking how quickly you're immersed in Iceland's vast and dramatic landscape.
We'll experience the majesty of Icelandic nature and its hardy culture.
With lots of time on the road and help from Cameron Hewitt, my friend and fellow guidebook author, we'll see it all: thundering waterfalls... steaming geothermal fields... bobbing with icebergs... fording glacial river... and wandering evocative black-sand beaches... quirky fjord-side towns... and enduring folk culture.
We'll chase rainbows, elusive whales, roaming horses, and the cutest puffins.
Iceland, about the size of Virginia with just 400,000 people, sits between Greenland and Norway.
The Ring Road links virtually the entire population From Reykjavk, we explore the South Coast.
side-tripping up Thrsmrk valley and sailing to the Westman Islands.
From Vk, we see glacial lagoons, the rugged Eastfjords, geothermal hot zones around Lake Mvatn, the fishing village of Hsavk in the far north, and Snfellsnes Peninsula before finishing back where we started.
Driving the entire Ring Road takes about 30 hours non-stop.
To do it justice, you need at least 5 or 6 days.
You can go in either direction-- we're going counter-clockwise-- and it's summertime, so it stays light really late.
Rick, voice-over: On the first leg is Iceland's South Coast.
Just two hours from Reykjavk and we're already deep in the thrills, chalking up the experiences people visiting here dream of.
Seljalandsfoss--one of Iceland's most accessible waterfalls-- is a favorite stop.
The water tumbles more than 200 feet from cliffs high above, like a bridal veil.
On sunny days, the scene is like a party as everybody is suddenly waterfall crazy and connoisseurs of rainbows.
Late in the day, with the setting sun, everyone's a photographer.
A slippery trail leads up behind the cascading water, and back here, the energy is palpable.
And rain parkas get a good workout.
Here in Iceland, we experience both the power of nature and the beauty of nature.
Rick, voice-over: The South Coast's backdrop is a chain of glacier-capped volcanoes.
This island sits at the rift where the North American and European tectonic plates are slowly pulling apart, resulting in one of our planet's most dramatic and fiery landscapes.
This country is expert at monetizing its stunning nature--making the great outdoors accessible.
Each morning, rugged vehicles load up with tourists and head for the backcountry.
We've hired one of these enormous trucks with a driver, eager for a thrilling experience.
We're heading up a remote and rocky valley called Thrsmrk.
Even in this land of superlatives, Thrsmrk is one-of-a-kind.
Venturing far beyond where normal cars can tread, it's a land of super-vehicles.
But it's still accessible.
There's even a public bus service up this remote valley.
All must have tires that deflate with the push of a button for extra traction.
"Super-jeeps" and buses alike, equipped with these monster tires, churn through rivers of glacial melt, giving all on board a tale to tell.
People come to hike.
Remote lodges provide simple home bases.
Up here, nature is a great equalizer as everyone is psyching up... prepping to create that lifetime memory.
Charging deeper and deeper into the valley, I keep thinking the off-road prowess of our vehicle would make for a great TV ad.
Finally, we park our super-jeep and actually work up a sweat with a short hike.
Feeling small in this primeval setting, we're humbled at the majesty of what surrounds us.
This is yet another way to be immersed in the raw power of Iceland's nature.
Highway 1 laces together a steady parade of side-tripping options.
Each detour comes with a convenient lesson in the local history and a schematic map locating every farm, place to eat or sleep, and point of interest on that smaller road.
Like any road trip, doing the Ring Road requires multiple one-night stays.
There are plenty of accommodation options.
They range from big boxy hotels to pre-fab cabins, tight little yurts, remote hostels, and camping.
It's been a long day of sightseeing for us.
Time to settle in.
Like so many farms, this family is meeting the new demand, housing more tourists and fewer animals.
The welcome is warm.
Rick: I'm Rick Steves.
Man: Hello, Mr.
Steves.
How are you today?
Rick: I'm good.
It's nice to be here.
Rick, voice-over: The rooms are simple, but plenty comfortable.
And the views are...Icelandic.
A major stop on the Iceland grand tour is the Westman Islands, just a 40-minute ferry crossing from the South Coast.
While locals sit inside, tourists soak up the view as we approach the craggy group of islands.
The ferry squeezes into the harbor.
And tucked into the shelter of the cliffs, our port comes into view.
The Westman Islands' only town is a fishing community surrounded by sea cliffs and a rugged terrain shaped by eons of volcanic eruptions.
Sightseeing boats are dwarfed and outnumbered by a fleet of fishing boats.
Visitors strolling the boardwalk sense how fishing is big in this country, and the Westman Islands fleet is the leading producer.
Main Street has most of the commerce.
And it leads past inviting neighborhood lanes to a classic Icelandic church.
But the island is best known for a fiery eruption in 1973 when its volcano blew.
It was a massive event.
The island actually increased in size.
The town's Volcano Museum tells the story.
One frightening night, the slumbering volcano above town rumbled violently to life.
Everyone evacuated by morning, but for months, molten lava flowed, slowly creeping closer and closer to the town center.
The museum's centerpiece is an actual house that was completely engulfed by the lava.
50 years ago, this was an oozing wall of red-hot molten lava.
It was a slow-motion disaster gradually consuming the town.
Thankfully, it stopped right here.
Rick, voice-over: Back at the harbor front, we're catching a mini-bus tour to get a more personal take on that terrifying eruption and to explore the island.
Local guide Ebbi was born and raised here, knows the island, and is ready to roll.
We're driving on lava left from the 1973 eruption.
Ebbi: So, you know, good things, bad things with this--this huge eruption like this.
Now, nobody died because of the eruption, which is a very good thing.
We've gained also about 20%.
The island increased in size about 20%.
Rick: And you're more famous for tourists because you had the volcano.
Ebbi: Well, yes, it got us on the map also.
Underneath us are streets.
50 meters down underneath us, we have streets, we have houses.
Actually, not far from here is my grandparents' house.
And right here below is one of our schools.
This marking here is a memorial about a house underneath here from a wealthy fisherman.
Rick: This house was straight down?
Ebbi: This house right underneath us here.
And everywhere on this lava, we have these wooden crosses, like this one here, for example.
This is called Landagata.
One of many streets that went under.
Rick: So, that's the name of a street?
Ebbi: There's the name of the street right underneath us.
Rick, voice-over: The town side of the lava ridge has additional examples of what was lost and reminders of how the entire town could have been consumed by the lava flow.
The Westman Islands are famous for being the home of many species of seabirds that nest in the grassy ledges and cliffs by the millions.
It's particularly well-known for its puffins.
Ebbi takes us to a thriving colony popular with birders and tourists alike.
Ebbi: So, this location here is the biggest puffin colony in the world.
Now, people come here to see the puffins, of course.
The puffins, they live in the ocean for 8 months.
And they're only here during the summer just to do that one thing.
And that is to make that one egg a year that they make.
They make one egg per year, per couple.
Now, the...half of the colony is right now underneath here.
There are thousands of birds sitting, taking care of the egg.
Right now.
Underneath us right now.
Rick: Literally under us now?
Ebbi: Underneath us.
Everywhere is a burrow where they've digged in and they have this, like an apartment, kind of.
And half of the colony is outside and out in the ocean getting fish, and the other half is taking care of the eggs.
And people all around the world come to see the puffins, of course.
And they come here.
[Puffins chattering] Rick, voice-over: Back on the mainland, we're continuing around the Ring Road.
And there're lots more dramatic natural sights.
From this rugged promontory, on a clear day, you can see virtually the entire South Coast.
And just below is one of this volcanic island's many black sand beaches.
Travelers are enthralled by this fantastical landscape.
Sea stacks rise out of the briny waves.
Basalt formations bring out the kid in every adventurer.
A windy walk immersed in this pristine beauty can be unforgettable.
Marking the end of the South Coast, the village of Vk is the southernmost settlement in Iceland.
Vik is both humble and sparse-- little more than a practical pit stop for travelers.
And for this village, that's nothing new.
Historically, there was no harbor.
A century ago, before the arrival of the road, provisions came in by boats beached on this shore.
What we've done so far, with Cameron Hewitt, who co-authors guidebooks with me, is all within day-tripping distance from Reykjavk.
Rick: Reykjavk is 3 hours that way, or 6 days that way.
I'm heading straight back to work on the book.
But we'll follow Cameron and the crew as he does his research the long way around.
We'll meet up back in Reykjavk.
Rick, voice-over: Leaving Vk, the traffic thins out and the landscape opens up.
We've just left Rick in Vk, and now we're continuing around the Ring Road.
And, you know, already the terrain is changing and the weather is changing.
In fact, Iceland is always changing.
That's why it's so important for us to go and travel in person to update our guidebooks to make sure we have the very latest information.
Rick, voice-over: The next stop is glacier country.
1/10 of Iceland is covered in glaciers, and the biggest one spreads across the top of these mountains.
Its many outlets--called tongues--reach down and lap at lowland valleys.
The road crosses vast plains of glacial grit and gravel, laced with milky rivers.
At the foot of some glaciers are lagoons bobbing with small icebergs that have broken off.
Lagoon cruises take tourists out on these moody and beautiful waters.
Passengers gear up in heavy jackets and prepare for the adventure.
They climb into inflatable boats and then float through this dreamy landscape.
It's an unforgettable experience, no matter the weather.
Our enthusiastic guide offers a lesson in glaciers 101.
Man: Then, of course, there's the white ice and the blue ice.
Rick, voice-over: After a short explanation of why there are different colors of glacial ice, travelers get the chance to hold a chunk of ice that originally fell as snow...500 years ago.
The guide explains how glaciers naturally grow and recede.
In fact, this glacier used to extend all the way across the lagoon at the end of the 19th century, but it's been retreating now for over 130 years.
Man: It is absolutely natural, absolutely normal that at some points, the glaciers are growing.
At some point, the glaciers are retreating.
But now the glaciers are retreating way, way faster because of global warming.
Rick, voice-over: Even from the shore, people marvel at how glacial ice comes in a stunning variety of shapes, sizes, and colors.
The wind pushes the icebergs into a traffic jam where the lagoon meets the Atlantic.
Birds and seals feed in the swirling waters as the icebergs wait for their final journey out to sea.
When conditions are right, chunks of ice wash up on the nearby black-sand beach.
Nicknamed "Diamond Beach," it looks like thousands of gigantic gems scattered over black velvet.
Leaving the glaciers behind, the Ring Road hugs the wild coastline.
The churning North Atlantic surf crashes on deserted beaches and rocky shores.
Soon, yawning bays grow narrower, becoming the serene fjords that slice deep into the east coast of Iceland.
Driving along the Eastfjords is long and slow, but always scenic.
And around each bend unfolds one grand fjord after another, and you'll come upon a colorful village called Seyisfjrur.
Its majestic setting attracts artists and inspires vibrant murals and trendy places to eat and drink.
It's a welcome pocket of quirky creativity in this very remote corner of the country.
Leaving the fjords and turning inland, the road crosses the vast and arid Highlands.
Tucked away in these rocky folds is another iconic waterfall.
Arriving at what looks like just a desolate volcanic landscape, if you follow the trail, you'll hear the thundering falls before you see them.
[Water rushing] Dettifoss is this country's most powerful waterfall... with 50,000 gallons of water every second tumbling through an awe-inspiring gorge of basalt cliffs.
The falls fill the air with mist and rainbows... and fill visitors with an appreciation for the grandeur of Icelandic nature.
Continuing west, the barren plateau gives way to the green oasis of Lake Mvatn.
Ringing the lake is a wide variety of volcanic landscapes.
Compact and accessible, Mvatn feels like Iceland's Yellowstone.
And looming over the lakeshore is a perfect volcanic ash crater.
Bizarrely beautiful, like visiting a moonscape, it's one more indelible memory that comes with driving the Ring Road.
Nearby, the geothermal activity keeps on simmering.
Visitors wander through this mind-bending, almost Martian landscape.
Mud puddles bubble and steam.
Fumaroles hiss like teakettles.
The terrain is brushed in vivid colors.
And everything reeks of sulfur.
You know, when you come to a place as unusual as this, the real challenge for a travel writer is figuring out how to capture the sort of sense of awe and wonder and the essence of a place and then translate that into words.
Rick, voice-over: The landscape changes yet again up along the North Coast.
The Ring Road is a scenic spine around Iceland, and with good travel information, you'll know which detours are most worth the extra miles.
And one of those is Hsavk, with its salty and picturesque harbor on a protected bay, and a proud fishing heritage.
Today, a stop here educates visitors about Iceland's whales.
The Hsavk Whale Museum displays the bones of whales that have washed ashore from around the island.
The lovingly displayed skeletons teach visitors about these magnificent mammals.
The star of the show-- an 80-foot-long blue whale, with a rib cage as big as a truck.
For a chance to watch living whales, out on the harbor, visitors choose between classic fishing boats or--for a little more adventure-- high-speed inflatables.
If they're lucky, they may come home with happy memories of breaching humpbacks and curious orcas.
Continuing across Iceland's north, the coastal road curls around the Troll Peninsula, with sweeping vistas toward the Arctic Circle.
At the tip of the Troll Peninsula sits the historic fishing town of Siglufjrur.
The mountains at the mouth of the fjord protect the little harbor.
And behind it is an endearing museum that tells the story of how, around 1900, this became a boom town for herring.
Visitors learn how these tough, little boats caught mountains of herring-- a nutritious and highly prized food.
This herring harvest powered Iceland's fledgling economy through the first half of the 20th century.
Cameron's learning more about the story from local guide Edda.
Cameron: Tell me, why is it in this town, why herring?
What's special about herring to this town?
Edda: So, the herring industry was, for the longest time, one of the biggest industries in the country, for the most part of the 20th century.
And for the longest time, this town had the biggest herring port in Iceland.
And we often refer to this as the capital of the herring.
So, we are located in front of a salting station, and from 1907 until 1968, herring was salted here.
We had the women, the herring girls, salting and packing the herring into the barrels.
So this is what we call the herring box.
And the fishermen coming into the fjord would start by unloading the herring into those boxes, and then they would call out the herring girls for work, and they would take one herring at a time, cutting the head off and pulling the guts out.
Then, in here, they would mix it with the salt and then finally stack it into the barrels.
Rick, voice-over: It's inspiring to see the thoughtful ways Iceland preserves and celebrates its unique heritage.
Finishing the loop and leaving the coast behind, the road swings to the south.
Along the way is another artifact of this country's rugged history.
In this land where trees are scarce, houses were made out of sod.
Glaumbr is a perfectly preserved turf house dating back centuries.
Under the wavy, windblown roof and behind the wood facade is an earthen corridor that connects several rooms.
Food was stored in wooden barrels.
In the kitchen, meals were cooked over a sheep dung fire.
The farmer's family had a spacious bedroom all to themselves.
But the farmhands bunked in a communal living room.
Workers slept two to a bed, tucked in by a wooden panel carved with prayers.
People still lived here until 1947.
Modern as Iceland is today, many grandparents remember growing up in houses like these.
As the Ring Road winds its way back toward Reykjavk, there is time for one last scenic detour.
A drive around the Snfellsnes Peninsula offers a wrap-up of Iceland's dramatic natural wonders: Iconic peaks, sheltered fjords, frisky horses, glacier-topped mountains, swirling sea birds, climbable craters, and abundant waterfalls.
In short, it's a microcosm of all the unique forms of nature that Iceland is famous for.
This encore of Icelandic splendor caps one of Europe's great road trips.
After 800 miles, the crew meets back up with me where we started--in Reykjavk.
-It's a lot of miles... -And it takes a lot of time... but if you want to trade crowds for stunning nature, Iceland's Ring Road is an unforgettable drive.
-I'm Rick Steves.
-And I'm Cameron Hewitt.
Rick: Thanks for joining us.
Until next time, keep on traveling!
Director: Action!
Heh heh.
What kind of joke is this?
You know, as more and more people discover this beautiful place, it's really more important-- than--sorry, there's a fly right on my glasses.
He was literally--[Laughs] You better not be rolling with this hat on.
[Man laughs] Man 2: There's your blooper.
Rick: There's a blooper.
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