Real Rail Adventures: Swiss Winter Magic

[WIND HOWLING] WHO'S READY FOR SOME FUN?

AND I MEAN THE MAGICAL KIND OF FUN YOU HAD WHEN YOU WERE A KID, WHEN YOU WOKE UP TO FIND THE WORLD BLANKETED IN SNOW, SCHOOL CANCELLED, AND A BRAND-NEW SLED READY TO RIDE.

I'M JEFF WILSON, AND IF YOU'RE READY, I'VE GOT THE TICKET TO TAKE YOU THERE.

COME ALONG ON "REAL RAIL ADVENTURES: SWISS WINTER MAGIC."

[BELL CLANGING] [SLEIGH BELLS JINGLING] WILSON: THERE'S NO PLACE QUITE AS MAGICAL AS SWITZERLAND IN WINTER.

IT'S ALMOST LIKE A SNOW GLOBE COME TO LIFE.

CHURCH SPIRES RISE ABOVE WHITE-LACED VILLAGES, CRIMSON HORSE CARRIAGES JINGLE ALONG FROSTY STREETS, AND SHINY TRAIN CARS DEFTLY WEND THEIR WAY UP MOUNTAINSIDES.

FOR ME, THE BEST PART ABOUT WINTERTIME IN SWITZERLAND IS THE OUTDOOR SPORTS.

FROM SKIING TO SKATING TO TOBOGGANING TO SNOW BIKING, I MEAN, THIS PLACE IS AS GOOD AS IT GETS.

SO A FEW WEEKS AGO, I DECIDED TO PACK MY BAGS, GRAB MY SKIS, AND HIT THE SNOW.

FOR YEARS, I'VE BEEN RIDING TRAINS IN SWITZERLAND, AND IT'S BY FAR THE BEST WAY TO SEE THE COUNTRY.

TRAIN TRAVEL IS MORE POPULAR THAN EVER, AND FOR GOOD REASON.

IT'S RELAXING, IT'S ECO-FRIENDLY, AND IT'S A GREAT WAY TO GET TO KNOW A DESTINATION AND ITS PEOPLE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: YOU CAN BET THAT THE WELL-CONNECTED SWISS RAIL SYSTEM WILL TAKE YOU TO SOME OF THE WORLD'S TOP WINTER RESORTS.

ALL YOU NEED TO RIDE IS A SINGLE SWISS TRAVEL PASS.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

I'LL START IN THE TOWN OF CHUR, AND THEN HEAD TO ST. MORITZ, THE GOMS REGION, ZERMATT, GSTAAD, AND THEN CIRCLE UP TO ZURICH.

[BELL TOLLING] I'VE TOURED CHUR IN SUMMER, BUT THIS WAS MY FIRST WINTER VISIT.

IT'S SWITZERLAND'S OLDEST TOWN, AND THERE HAVE BEEN SETTLEMENTS HERE DATING AS FAR BACK AS 6,000 YEARS.

IMPECCABLY-PRESERVED MEDIEVAL BUILDINGS STILL RIM THE WINDING COBBLESTONE STREETS.

WHILE THE TOWN EMBODIES HISTORY, CHUR IS ALSO A MODERN TRANSPORTATION HUB AND THE PLACE TO CATCH ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT TRAINS.

THE ALBULA BERNINA LINE IS THE PERFECT WAY TO PLUNGE INTO THE ALPS.

THIS TRAIN LINE WAS SO DIFFICULT TO BUILD AND SO CRUCIAL TO TRANSFORMING THE CULTURE IN THIS PART OF THE ALPS THAT PORTIONS OF IT HAVE BEEN DESIGNATED A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.

AN ENGINEERING MARVEL, THE TRAIN FINESSES ITS WAY THROUGH SOME OF SWITZERLAND'S MOST CHALLENGING TERRAIN.

ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS, THE LANDWASSER VIADUCT, IS 213 FEET HIGH AND SPANS 450 THRILLING FEET.

THE TRAIN DELIVERS ME TO ST. MORITZ WHERE I CAN REALLY INDULGE MY LOVE OF THE OUTDOORS WITH BOTH FAMILIAR AND NEW ACTIVITIES.

IT'S EASY TO BRING YOUR OWN GEAR.

YOUR FIRST BAG TRAVELS FREE ON SWISS AIRLINES.

I'D LIKE TO PICK UP MY BAGS.

YES, OF COURSE.

JUST A MOMENT, PLEASE.

THANK YOU.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: AND IF YOU BUY FLY RAIL BAGGAGE SERVICE, YOUR BAGS ARE TRANSPORTED DIRECTLY TO YOUR RAILWAY OR HOTEL DESTINATION.

ENJOY.

THANK YOU.

BYE.

BYE-BYE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: IT'S SAID THAT ST. MORITZ, A NAME THAT INSTANTLY EVOKES WELL-HEELED TRAVELERS AND HOLIDAY GLAMOUR, IS THE BIRTHPLACE OF WINTER TOURISM.

150 YEARS AGO, WHEN THIS WAS ALREADY A THRIVING SUMMER RESORT, A SAVVY HOTEL OWNER NAMED JOHANNES BADRUTT BET HIS ENGLISH GUESTS THAT WINTER MONTHS HERE COULD BE EVEN MORE FUN.

NOW THIS WAS WAY BACK IN THE DAY WHEN PEOPLE WERE ACTUALLY AFRAID TO STAY IN THE ALPS DURING THE WINTERTIME.

SO BADRUTT PROMISED SOME ENGLISH GUESTS THAT HE'D PAY FOR THEIR ENTIRE TRIP IF THEY DIDN'T AGREE THAT A SNOWY ST. MORITZ WAS JUST AS BEAUTIFUL AND EVEN MORE ENJOYABLE THAN THE TOWN AT THE HEIGHT OF SUMMER.

WELL, BADRUTT WON THAT BET EASILY AND A NEW INDUSTRY WAS BORN.

[MAN SPEAKING GERMAN OVER P.A.]

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE AREA CONTINUES TO THRIVE AS AN EPICENTER OF WINTER SPORTS-- SKIING, SNOWBOARDING, SLEDDING, YOU NAME IT.

I'M READY TO JUMP RIGHT IN WITH SOME COOL RUNNINGS ON A BOBSLED RUN.

THE OLYMPIA BOB RUN BUILT IN 1904 IS NOT ONLY THE WORLD'S ONLY NATURAL ICE BOB RUN, BUT IT'S ALSO THE OLDEST STILL IN OPERATION.

HELLO, HELLO.

HOW ARE YOU FEELING?

YOU'RE A VERY IMPORTANT MAN.

YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.

HOLD YOUR TIGHT ELBOWS TO YOUR BODY.

AND YOU HAVE TO BE ONE PART WITH THE SLED.

WE HAVE NO SUSPENSION.

WE HAVE QUICK CHANGE.

READY OR NOT, WE'RE ABOUT TO MAKE BOBSLED HISTORY.

I'M NOT SURE WHAT KIND.

[MAN SPEAKING GERMAN OVER P.A.]

THE RUN IS CLEAR.

[MAN SPEAKING GERMAN OVER P.A.]

WILSON: DO YOU HAVE MY MOM'S PHONE NUMBER?

JUST GIVE HER A CALL, PLEASE.

MAN ON P.A.

: NOW ON THE TRACK, THE HEINEKEN SLED AND THE PASSENGERS JEFF WILSON AND DOUG NEWELL.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE SLEEK TRACK IS JUST OVER A MILE.

IT GIVES YOU THE RIDE OF A LIFETIME ALONG FRIGID CURVES AND BENDS.

THE SLEDS CAN GET UP TO SPEEDS OF 80 MILES PER HOUR WITH CENTRIFUGAL FORCES REACHING 4 Gs.

EACH YEAR, TRACK BUILDERS SPEND 3 WEEKS RE-CREATING THE TRACK TO KEEP IT IN TIP-TOP CONDITION.

WHILE THE RIDE LASTS LESS THAN TWO MINUTES, I GET AN OLYMPIC-SIZED THRILL ROARING AROUND THE LAST TURN AND GLIDING INTO THE FINISH.

MAN OVER P.A.

: WELL DONE, JEFF.

WELL DONE.

WE HOPE YOU HAD FUN.

WE HOPE YOU HAVE EXCITING TIME.

WELL DONE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: ANOTHER OF ST. MORITZ'S CONTRIBUTIONS TO OUTDOOR FUN IS SNOW KITING.

LAKE SILVAPLANA, WHICH IS FROZEN FOR MUCH OF THE WINTER, HAS HELPED FOSTER THIS RELATIVELY YOUNG, BUT FAST-GROWING SPORT.

IT'S SIMILAR TO KITESURFING ON WATER, BUT HERE YOU SAIL ACROSS A COATING OF SNOW, BOLSTERED BY WIND ON THE OPEN EXPANSE OF LAKE.

IF YOU'RE COMFORTABLE ON SKIS, IT'S FAIRLY EASY TO PICK UP.

BEAUTIFUL.

IT'S A GREAT DAY.

YEAH.

A LITTLE MORE WIND, RIGHT?

YEAH, IF IT PICKS UP.

IT'S ALL WE NEED.

YEAH.

SO, SIMON, YOU KNOW I'M NEW AT THIS BECAUSE I TRIED TO PUT THE BELT ON BACKWARDS, RIGHT?

SO I'VE NEVER KITE SKIED BEFORE.

I'VE SKIED A LITTLE.

BUT WHAT CAN I EXPECT IN LEARNING HOW TO KITE SKI?

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BASIC STEPS I'LL NEED TO FOLLOW?

SPRECHER: JUST LIKE WITH THE SAIL SHIP, YOU CAN CROSS AGAINST THE WIND, OR YOU CAN CROSS WITH THE WIND.

LIKE TACKING WITH A SAILBOAT.

EXACTLY.

IT'S EXACTLY THE SAME SYSTEM.

AND IN A SAILBOAT YOU HAVE THE RUDDER TO STEER ON THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION.

WE HAVE THE SKI TO STEER SOMEWHERE ELSE.

THAT'S THE ONLY DIFFERENCE.

IT SOUNDS SIMPLE, I'M SURE.

YEAH, IT IS.

HA HA HA!

AND ON 3, YEAH?

1, 2, 3.

STEER, STEER, STEER.

RIGHT.

HARD RIGHT.

VERY GOOD.

HARD RIGHT TO THE BOTTOM.

SPRECHER: HARD RIGHT BLUE.

AND YOU CAN STEER VERY DEEP TO THE PARKING FOR THE CAM.

YES, RIGHT ON.

[WIND WHISTLING] WILSON, VOICEOVER: ST. MORITZ INHABITS THE DREAMY ENGADIN VALLEY.

AND A FUN WAY TO EXPLORE IT IS ABOARD HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGE.

[BELLS JINGLING] A CENTURY AGO, FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE WROTE ABOUT THIS AREA, "THERE IS NO PLACE I LOVE AS MUCH."

RIDING THROUGH THE CHILLY LANDSCAPE, BUNDLED UP AGAINST THE COLD, YOU CAN IMAGINE IT MIGHT HAVE LOOKED MUCH THE SAME AS WHEN THAT GERMAN PHILOSOPHER STAYED HERE.

[INDISTINCT CHATTER] IF YOU PREFER TAKING THE REINS FOR A LEISURELY STROLL ON HORSEBACK, THEN STALLA COSTA WILL FIX YOU UP.

THIS FAMILY-RUN COMPANY IS KNOWN FOR ITS ORGANIC PRACTICES AND ANIMAL-CENTERED CARE.

WOMAN: HORSES ARE LIKE ALL ANIMALS.

THEY'RE USED TO THE WINTER.

WE HAVE THEM ALL DAY OUTSIDE SO THEY MAKE A NICE WINTER COAT.

THEY DON'T HAVE COLD OR ANYTHING.

THEY HAVE A GOOD COAT.

AND WE USE SPECIAL HOOF SHOES WITH SPIKES SO IF IT'S ICY OR SO, THEY ARE STILL SAFE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE GUIDES ARE EXPERTS AT READING HORSES' NATURAL BODY LANGUAGE TO BUILD A TRUSTING RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN RIDER AND HORSE.

WILSON: THEY SEEM LIKE THEY ARE VERY-- I MEAN, THEY ARE BIG, TALL ANIMALS FOR HORSES.

BUT THEY ARE--THEY SEEM VERY LOW KEY, RIGHT?

YEAH, THEY ARE USED TO MANY THINGS.

WE TRAIN THEM SO THEY KNOW A LOT OF THINGS.

THEY KNOW PEOPLE AND THEY TRUST US.

WE TRY TO BUILD UP A LANGUAGE OR COMMUNICATIONS SO THEY TRUST US AND HAVE RESPECT, YEAH.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: FOR STUNNING MOUNTAIN SCENERY, TRY A DAY-TRIP OUT OF ST. MORITZ ON THE "BERNINA EXPRESS."

TALK ABOUT MAGICAL.

THIS TRAIN LINE PASSES ALL THE WAY FROM THE ALPINE GLACIERS OF SWITZERLAND TO THE PALM TREES OF NORTHERN ITALY.

THE BERNINA IS ONE OF THE HIGHEST RAIL LINES IN EUROPE, CROSSING NEARLY 200 BRIDGES AND DOZENS OF TUNNELS.

THOUGH CARS MAY STRUGGLE TO CROSS THIS PASS IN WINTER, THE TRAIN MAKES EASY WORK OF THE SNOWY INCLINES.

THE "BERNINA EXPRESS" PASSES BY LAGO BIANCO, WHOSE WATERS FLOW TO BOTH THE ADRIATIC AND BLACK SEAS.

HARDCORE RAIL FANS WILL TELL YOU THAT THIS IS NOT ONLY ONE OF THE MOST SCENIC TRAIN RIDES IN EUROPE, IT'S AMONG THE BEST IN THE WORLD.

THE MORNING FINDS ME HIGH UP ON THE SLOPES ABOVE ST. MORITZ.

THIS IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT SKI DESTINATIONS.

IT SEEMS THE SWISS CAN DO JUST ABOUT ANYTHING ON SNOW, INCLUDING YOGA.

HAVE A LOOK TO YOUR BACK HAND.

AND TRY TO MAKE ONE LINE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: SINCE YOGA MEANS TO UNITE, THIS SEEMS AN APPROPRIATE WAY TO GET IN TOUCH WITH THE NATURAL SURROUNDINGS.

YOU DON'T NEED TO BE EXPERIENCED IN YOGA OR SKIING.

WOMAN: THEN WE INHALE AGAIN AND BRING YOUR ARMS TO THE SIDE.

THEN LENGTHEN YOUR SPINE.

FEEL VERY STRONG.

AND THEN BEND TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE YOGA ON SNOW TEAM LEADS YOU THROUGH POSES WHILE PERIODICALLY PAUSING TO TAKE IN SOME OF THE BEST SIGHTS.

IT'S A GREAT CHANCE TO REALLY BE IN THE MOMENT.

NUSSBAUM: IF YOU WANT, YOU CAN LOOK UP.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: OVERLOOKING THE ENGADINE, THE SUMMIT OF MUOTTAS MURAGL SERVES UP A SPECTACULAR VANTAGE POINT FOR THE VALLEY.

THE EPIC VIEWS AND UNUSUAL LIGHT CONDITIONS PROVIDED AMPLE INSPIRATION FOR 19th CENTURY ITALIAN PAINTER GIOVANNI SEGANTINI, WHO GAINED FAME WITH HIS LARGE PASTORAL LANDSCAPES OF THE ALPS.

HOTEL ROMANTIK, PERCHED ON THE MOUNTAINSIDE, DATES BACK TO THE EARLY DAYS OF TOURISM.

MODERN SWISS ARE VERY ECO-MINDED, AND THE RECENTLY REFURBISHED HOTEL NOW PRODUCES EVEN MORE ENERGY THAN REQUIRED TO MEET ITS OWN NEEDS.

MAN: WE COLLECT THE SUN.

JEFF: AHH, SOLAR ENERGY.

SOLAR ENERGY.

WE HAVE A LOT OF COLLECTORS-- AROUND THE FUNICULARY, AT THE TOP ROOF, AT THE MAIN ENTRANCES, AND EVEN THE WINDOWS, WE HAVE SPECIAL ONES.

THEY ARE PIPES.

THEY LOOK VERY STYLISH, BUT STYLISH AND ENERGY WORKS.

AND THEN WE HAVE EARTH ZONES.

200 METERS.

WILSON: AAH, SO GEOTHERMAL HEATING?

YEAH, GEOTHERMAL HEAT.

FINALLY WE HAVE REAL INDEPENDENCE FROM ALL ENERGY, THE SUN.

JUST THE SUN.

JUST THE SUN.

AND THE WATER, AND THE EARTH GET WHAT WE NEED.

THAT'S GREAT.

YEAH.

YEAH.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: AT 8,000 FEET, MUOTTAS MURAGL IS A MAJOR DRAW FOR SLEDDERS.

YOU CAN RENT A TOBOGGAN AT THE VALLEY STATION TO GET IN ON THE FUN.

THE TOBOGGAN RUN HAS A VERTICAL DROP OF MORE THAN 2,300 FEET AND IS THE FASTEST IN THE AREA.

IT'S A RIP-ROARING RIDE THAT WILL LEAVE YOU ALTERNATELY LAUGHING AND PRAYING FOR YOUR LIFE.

THERE'S NOTHING ELSE THAT CAN BRING OUT THE KID IN YOU LIKE RACING DOWNHILL ON A SLED, A BRISK WINTER WIND IN YOUR FACE.

MY HOME IN THE ENGADINE IS HOTEL WALDHAUS SILS.

IT SITS ON A WOODED HILLSIDE THAT NIETZSCHE DESCRIBED AS "6,000 FEET BEYOND MAN AND TIME."

THIS IS LIKE DELVING INTO THE NOSTALGIC LUXURY OF CENTURIES PAST.

IT'S THE KIND OF PLACE YOU READ ABOUT IN BOOKS OR SEE IN FILMS LIKE "THE GRAND BUDAPEST HOTEL."

THE HOTEL HAS STAYED LARGELY THE SAME AS WHEN IT WAS BUILT IN 1908 AND IS STILL OPERATED WITH LOVING CARE BY THE GRANDCHILDREN OF THE ORIGINAL OWNER.

TODAY I'M BACK AT THE STATION, HEADING IN THE DIRECTION OF ZERMATT ABOARD THAT ICON OF SCENIC TRAINS, THE "GLACIER EXPRESS."

THE TERM EXPRESS IS A BIT MISLEADING.

THE TRAIN COASTS ALONG AT A SNAIL'S PACE, CROSSING NEARLY THE LENGTH OF SOUTHERN SWITZERLAND.

WINTER'S A FANTASTIC TIME TO TRAVEL THROUGH THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY.

BUT I CAN SAY, IT'S BEST SEEN FROM THE INSIDE OF A WARM TRAIN.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: SNOW LEAVES THE COUNTRYSIDE BLANKETED IN WHITE, AND SMALL SWISS VILLAGES STAND OUT AGAINST THE DAZZLING BACKGROUND.

TRAVELING FROM ST. MORITZ TO ZERMATT, THE "GLACIER EXPRESS" FERRIES TRAVELERS BETWEEN TWO OF THE WORLD'S GREAT WINTER SPORTS DESTINATIONS.

I'M STOPPING BETWEEN ST. MORITZ AND ZERMATT IN THE GOMS DISTRICT.

FLANKED BY FAMOUS RESORT AREAS, THIS REGION IS IN MANY WAYS STILL UNDISCOVERED.

TRANQUIL GOMS IS A WINTER WONDERLAND.

UNDULATING HILLS ARE DOTTED WITH QUAINT VILLAGES AND DOZENS OF BAROQUE CHURCHES, THEIR GRACEFUL SPIRES STRETCHING INTO THE RARIFIED MOUNTAIN AIR.

THE SMALL VILLAGE OF RECKINGEN, POPULATION 420, LOOKS MUCH AS IT HAS FOR CENTURIES.

OLD WOODEN BUILDINGS AND HOUSES STAND STURDY AND RESOLUTE, BLACKENED BY WEATHER AND SUN.

MANY REST ON STONE SLABS BALANCED ON STILTS, A WAY TO DISCOURAGE VISITING VERMIN.

THE VILLAGE GOT RICH IN THE MIDDLE AGES BECAUSE OF ITS LOCATION IN A PASS BETWEEN ITALY AND SWITZERLAND.

THE SURROUNDING AREA IS ONE OF THE BEST PLACES IN EUROPE FOR CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING AND SNOWSHOEING, WITH MORE THAN 60 MILES OF NORDIC TRACKS.

I'M LUCKY ENOUGH TO GET A SKATE-STYLE CROSS-COUNTRY LESSON FROM FORMER OLYMPIC ATHLETE SIMON HALLENBARTER.

STARTING OUT.

SO USUALLY IN CROSS COUNTRY SKIING I WOULD BE KIND OF SHUFFLING ALONG, RIGHT?

YEAH, FOR SURE.

AND ONE HAND IN FRONT OF THE OTHER.

YEAH, I MEAN, IT'S A LITTLE LIKE WALKING.

THAT'S LIKE NORMAL CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING.

AND THEN SKATING, IT'S LIKE ICE SKATING, ALWAYS GLIDING, YOU KNOW.

THE POLES ARE ACTUALLY THE SAME BUT A LITTLE LONGER, BUT THE BOOTS AND SKIS ARE TOTALLY DIFFERENT.

THE BOOTS ARE A LITTLE HIGHER, THAT YOU ARE MORE STABLE IN SKATING.

AND THE SKIS ARE A LITTLE SHORTER.

AND THEN IT'S IMPORTANT FOR THE BALANCE, YOU KNOW, THAT YOU HAVE THE WHOLE WEIGHT ON THE RIGHT SKIS, AND ALSO ON THE LEFT SKIS.

IT'S GLIDE, PUSH, AND GLIDE.

PUSH AND GLIDE, YES.

YEAH, THAT'S GOOD.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THERE ARE MILES OF GROOMED TRAILS, INCLUDING SOME THAT OFFER LIGHTED NIGHT SKIING AND DOG SLEDDING.

THE PERFECT WAY TO WARM UP?

HOW ABOUT BAKING SOME LOCAL BREAD?

THE ELEVATION AND EXTREME WEATHER HERE ARE IDEAL FOR GROWING RYE, AND LOCALS HAVE BEEN TRANSFORMING IT INTO DELICIOUS BREAD FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

IN THE OLD DAYS, VILLAGERS FIRED THEIR COMMUNAL OVENS ONLY TWO OR THREE TIMES A YEAR, SO THEY NEEDED TO COME UP WITH A TYPE OF BREAD THAT WOULD LAST FOR SEVERAL MONTHS.

SO, WE START BY-- YOU TAKE THE DOUGH AND WE MAKE A BALL.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE KEY TO THE BREAD'S LONGEVITY IS A CLOSELY-GUARDED SECRET, THOUGH SOME HINT IT'S THE SPECIAL SOURDOUGH STARTER, HANDED DOWN FOR GENERATIONS.

YOU HAVE TO BE QUICK, I GUESS.

YOU HAVE A HUNDRED LOAVES TO MAKE, RIGHT?

SO OK, THIS WAY AND THIS WAY.

OK?

[LAUGHS] HELLO.

HELLO.

YEAH, EIN ROGGENBROT?

YEAH, [SPEAKING GERMAN] WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE BAKERY SUPPLIES ALL THE LOCAL RESTAURANTS AND STORES WITH LOAVES FRESH FROM THE OVEN.

WELL, THERE YOU HAVE IT.

IT'S THE FIELD, THE MILL, THE BAKERY, THE STORE, ALL IN THE SAME VALLEY.

TALK ABOUT LOCAL.

[INDISTINCT CHATTER] WILSON, VOICEOVER: STOPPING BY A SMALL MUSEUM IN OBERWALD, I DISCOVER A SHRINE TO SKIING.

HERE, IN A CONVERTED STABLE, A THOUSAND PAIRS OF SKIS COLLECTED BY ENTHUSIAST TONI HISCHIER TRACE THE HISTORY OF WINTER SPORTS IN GOMS.

THE OLDEST PAIR DATES TO 1896.

SO TONI, WHAT MADE YOU START TO COLLECT SKIS?

TRANSLATOR: IT STARTED IN 1957.

HE WON HIS FIRST RACE AT SCHOOL.

AND THEN HE TOOK PART IN MORE RACES.

AND HE HAD 10 PAIRS OF SKIS.

AND THEN HE BEGAN COLLECTING THOSE, YOU KNOW.

AFTER EVERY SEASON, THERE WERE SKIS LYING ON THE STREET AFTER THE SEASON.

SO HE PICKED THEM UP.

BUT MANY ARE FROM FRIENDS, YOU KNOW, FROM SPORTSMEN, FROM ATHLETES, OLYMPIC PARTICIPANTS.

WILSON: SO HOW MANY YEARS HAS IT TAKEN?

I GUESS SINCE 1957, THEN?

1957, YES.

SO 60 YEARS.

YEAH, 60 YEARS.

WOW, THAT'S A LOT OF SKIS.

[BELL TOLLING] WILSON, VOICEOVER: TIME TO REPLENISH ALL THOSE CALORIES I BURNED OFF SKIING.

TONIGHT'S DINNER IS AT THE HOTEL JOOPI RESTAURANT WITH ITS CURIOUSLY NAMED CHOLERA PIE.

THE NAME REFERS TO A DISH THAT'S SOMETHING OF A REGIONAL SPECIALTY.

BACK IN THE DAY WHEN CHOLERA EPIDEMICS ROARED THROUGH MOUNTAIN COMMUNITIES, PEOPLE WERE AFRAID TO GO OUT IN THE STREET.

SO, THEY'D TAKE WHATEVER THEY HAD AROUND THE HOUSE-- POTATOES, CHEESE, APPLES, BACON, AN OLD SHOE, AND HECK, EVEN AN OLD SHOE WOULD TASTE GOOD WITH BACON, RIGHT?

AND THEY'D PUT A PASTRY CRUST ON TOP OF IT AND BAKE IT INTO A PIE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: NOW EVEN TOP SWISS CHEFS USE LEFTOVERS TO COME UP WITH THEIR OWN INNOVATIVE SPINS ON CHOLERA PIE.

OURS IS LOADED WITH CHEESE AND LOCAL VEGETABLES SURROUNDED BY A LUSCIOUS CRUST.

CLIMBING BACK ON THE "GLACIER EXPRESS," I'M ON A PILGRIMAGE TO ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST LEGENDARY WINTER DESTINATIONS.

IT'S THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT AND ITS ALPINE CELEBRITY, THE MATTERHORN.

HANDSOME ZERMATT IS A WINTER SPORTS MECCA TUCKED AT THE FOOT OF THE ALPS.

AS I DISCOVERED ON MY SUMMER VISIT HERE, IT'S FRIENDLY, LAID-BACK, AND CAR-FREE.

GETTING AROUND ON FOOT IS A GREAT WAY TO GET TO KNOW ZERMATT.

OR IF YOU'RE NOT UP FOR WALKING, YOU CAN HOP IN AN ELECTRIC TAXI OR BUS.

THE TOWN OFFERS FIRST-CLASS SHOPPING ALONG THE BAHNHOFSTRASSE.

WHILE NOT GENERALLY A HUB OF HIGH FASHION, IT'S A GREAT PLACE TO BROWSE SWISS WATCHES, JEWELRY, AND SPORTS GEAR.

HUNGRY SHOPPERS FOLLOW THE TEMPTING AROMAS THAT DRIFT FROM TRADITIONAL BAKERIES.

ZERMATT IS EQUALLY PROUD OF ITS OLD TOWN, WITH ITS RUGGED ROWS OF HOUSES AND STABLES BUILT HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO.

THE SUN-BLACKENED WOOD STANDS STARKLY AGAINST A COATING OF WINTER SNOW.

THIS TOWN'S HISTORY IS FOREVER LINKED WITH THE NAME OF EDWARD WHYMPER, WHO WAS THE FIRST CLIMBER TO SUMMIT THE MATTERHORN IN 1865.

TRAGICALLY, 4 MEMBERS OF WHYMPER'S PARTY DIED ON THE DESCENT WHEN A BROKEN ROPE SENT THEM TUMBLING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.

BUT WHYMPER'S CONQUEST OF THE MATTERHORN, ONE OF THE LAST ALPINE PEAKS TO BE SUMMITED, MADE THE VILLAGE FAMOUS.

TOURISTS HAVE BEEN FLOCKING HERE EVER SINCE.

TODAY, THERE ARE 3 LARGE SKI RESORTS OFFERING A WHOLE RANGE OF WINTER SPORTS.

THERE'S PRETTY MUCH SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THERE'S NOTHING THAT QUITE PREPARES YOU FOR THAT FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE MATTERHORN.

AT MORE THAN 14,000 FEET AND STRADDLING SWITZERLAND AND ITALY, IT'S ONE OF THE HIGHEST SUMMITS IN EUROPE.

I'VE JOINED THE SKIERS AND SNOWBOARDERS ON THE SUNNEGGA-ROTHORN LIFT, WITH ITS HEADY VISTAS AND GENERALLY SUNNY SLOPES.

THE VIEWS FROM THE ROTHORN ARE DAZZLING, SPANNING MANY OF THE PEAKS IN THIS PART OF THE ALPS AND THE CURVES OF THE FINDEL GLACIER.

AND NOW IT'S TIME TO SKI.

HEH.

THIS IS MY IDEA OF WINTER MAGIC.

AU REVOIR.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: EVER SINCE I WAS A KID, I'VE DREAMED OF SKIING HERE, AND IT'S EVEN BETTER THAN I EXPECTED.

THE SLOPES ARE CAREFULLY GROOMED FOR EVERY SKI LEVEL.

AND SNOW IS GUARANTEED HERE THE YEAR ROUND.

AND COME ON, WHAT COULD BE BETTER THAN SKIING IN THE SHADOW OF THE MATTERHORN?

[INDISTINCT CHATTER] MAN: WHOA, COME TOMORROW I'LL BE SATISFIED WILSON, VOICEOVER: AFTER AN INVIGORATING DAY ON THE SLOPES, I'M READY TO KICK BACK WITH SOME LOCAL SNACKS AND DRINKS.

CERVO, THE ONLY SKI-IN, SKI-OUT RESORT IN ZERMATT, SPECIALIZES IN THE FINE ART OF APRES-SKI, WITH LIVE MUSIC AND CROWDS OF EXHAUSTED BUT HAPPY SKIERS.

TAKE ME DOWN THE VIOLETS ON YOUR FLOOR TAKE ME DOWN THE VIOLETS ON YOUR FLOOR TAKE ME DOWN THE VIOLETS ON YOUR FLOOR TAKE ME DOWN THE VIOLETS ON YOUR FLOOR WILSON, VOICEOVER: I'LL HAVE TO PULL MYSELF AWAY FROM THE MUSIC BECAUSE I'VE GOT A PRIOR ENGAGEMENT WITH SOME VERY SPECIAL LOCALS-- BLACKNOSE SHEEP.

[SHEEP BLEATING] THESE WOOLY ALPINE DWELLERS ARE A PASSION FOR PAUL JULEN WHO, WITH HIS BROTHER, RAISES ABOUT 300 OF THEM.

THE BLACK NOSE SHEEP IS NOT ONLY A VERY BEAUTIFUL ANIMAL, AS YOU CAN SEE.

NOW IT'S ALSO VERY IMPORTANT FOR THIS AREA HERE BECAUSE THEY ARE PERFECTLY ADAPTED TO NEEDS OF THE AREA.

YOU MUST IMAGINE IN THE SUMMER, THEY WALK VERY HIGH UP, UNTIL NEARLY 3,500 METERS ALTITUDE.

HIGHER THAN THE COWS AND THE OTHER ANIMALS.

SO IF THE GO SO FAR UP IN THE MOUNTAINS, HOW DO YOU KNOW WHERE THEY ARE?

WELL, THAT'S THE THING WHICH IS SPECIAL.

THEY ARE VERY HEFTY.

THEY WOULD ALWAYS STAY AROUND THE SPOT WHERE YOU THE LAST TIME GAVE THEM A LITTLE BIT OF SALT.

AND ALL YOU GOT TO DO IS YOU GOT TO GO ONCE A WEEK UP THERE GIVE THEM SOME SALT, AND THEN YOU CAN LET THEM COMPLETELY FREE.

YOU DON'T HAVE TO FENCE THEM OR ANYTHING LIKE THIS, AND THAT IS VERY NICE.

THIS IS ONE OF THE REASONS WHY THEY ARE SO POPULAR.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: PAUL'S CUDDLY FLOCK IS IRRESISTIBLE, AND SEVERAL MEMBERS HAVE CLAIMED THE CROWN AT ZERMATT'S ANNUAL BEAUTY PAGEANT FOR SHEEP.

PROTECTING NATURAL RESOURCES IS IMPORTANT IN ZERMATT, TOUTED AS THE MOST SELF-SUSTAINING WINTER RESORT IN SWITZERLAND.

TRANSPORTATION RUNS A LITTLE DIFFERENTLY HERE.

IN THE 1960s, CITIZENS VOTED TO BAN ALL PERSONAL AND PETROL VEHICLES.

TODAY, ALL TRAFFIC IN ZERMATT IS ELECTRIC, FROM BUSES TO TAXIS TO DELIVERY VEHICLES, AND MANY OF THOSE ARE MADE RIGHT HERE BY HAND.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: IMBODEN ELECTRO BUILDS BATTERY-POWERED TAXIS, TRUCKS, AND BUSES.

EACH VEHICLE, MADE OF WELDED ALUMINUM, IS A ONE-OFF DESIGNED FOR A SPECIFIC CUSTOMER'S NEEDS.

ZERMATT'S TECHNICAL PROWESS ISN'T LIMITED TO LAND VEHICLES.

THE WORLD-RENOWNED RESCUE OPERATION AIR ZERMATT HAS BEEN PATROLLING THIS CORNER OF THE ALPS SINCE 1968.

WITH A FLEET OF ULTRA-MODERN HELICOPTERS, IT PROVIDES RESCUE AND TRANSPORT SERVICES, AS WELL AS SIGHT-SEEING FLIGHTS FOR LUCKY TOURISTS.

SO HOW MANY HELICOPTERS DO YOU HAVE NOW?

WE STARTED WITH ONE HELICOPTER AND NOW WE HAVE 9.

THIS IS OUR BELL 429.

IT'S OUR PRIMARY RESCUE HELICOPTER.

WE HAVE HOIST CAPABILITIES, SO WE HAVE 90 METERS, WHICH IS ABOUT 270 FEET OF CABLE.

IT'S ALSO A SMALL CRITICAL CARE UNIT.

WE HAVE FULL MONITORING CAPABILITIES, LIKE DEFIBRILLATION, CARDIAC MONITOR.

WE ALSO HAVE A RESPIRATOR.

WE CAN DO FULL ANESTHESIA ON BOARD.

WE ALSO HAVE PROFUSION PUMPS.

YOU NAME IT.

WHATEVER YOU NEED IN A CRITICAL CARE UNIT, WE BASICALLY HAVE IT.

THIS IS, YEAH, A FLYING AMBULANCE.

IT IS.

IT IS ABSOLUTELY.

WILSON: CARLO, WHY ARE HELICOPTERS IMPORTANT IN THE REGION, IN ZERMATT?

GOBBA: THE PEOPLE ARE COMING HERE FOR SKIING.

YOU HAVE REALLY NICE, 3 DIFFERENT PLACES TO SKI.

AND OF COURSE, YOU HAVE TO HAVE SOMETHING READY IF THERE IS AN ACCIDENT.

THEY KNOW THAT, SO AT LEAST IF THAT HAPPENS, WE ARE READY TO BE THERE.

[ALPHORNS PLAYING] WILSON, VOICEOVER: LET'S SAY YOU'RE IN A 17th-CENTURY ALPINE VILLAGE AND YOU WANT TO SEND A SIGNAL TO A VILLAGE ON THE NEXT MOUNTAIN OVER.

HOW WOULD YOU DO IT?

WHY NOT WITH ALPHORNS?

THESE LONG, WOODEN INSTRUMENTS WERE USED TO CALL ANIMALS IN FROM THE PASTURES, PACIFY COWS DURING MILKING, AND EVEN FOR EVENING PRAYER.

[PLAYING ALPHORN] FOR TOTAL SWISS IMMERSION, I GET AN ALPHORN LESSON FROM LOCAL BERNARD PERREN.

TO SOUND VERY DOWN, THE LIPS ARE VERY BIG.

AS HIGHER, YOU GO SMALLER.

[BLOWS] HERE I GO.

MY BEST EMBOUCHURE.

[BLOWS ALPHORN] THAT'S ENOUGH, HUH?

WELL DONE.

FOR THE FIRST TIME, IT'S HARD.

[INDISTINCT CHATTER] WILSON, VOICEOVER: DINNER AT RESTAURANT SCHAFERSTUBE IS A WARM AND COZY AFFAIR, SERVING UP HEARTY PORTIONS OF RACLETTE AND RAVIOLI.

AHH, DANKE.

LOCAL MEAT IS COOKED OVER AN OPEN CHARCOAL GRILL.

WOMAN: ENJOY IT.

THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I NEED AFTER A LONG DAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

WOMAN: OK. YOU LET ME KNOW.

THERE'S GREAT SNOW AND PLENTY OF WINTER SPORTS ON TAP IN THE TOWN OF GSTAAD, SO THAT'S WHERE I'M HEADED NEXT.

THE GOLDENPASS LINE IS ANOTHER SHINING LINK IN THE SWISS TRANSPORTATION SYSTEM.

IT CONNECTS THE LAKE GENEVA REGION IN THE WEST WITH THE CENTRAL PART OF THE COUNTRY.

THE GOLDENPASS ISN'T ACTUALLY A SINGLE TRAIN LINE.

IT'S A PICTURESQUE ROUTE SERVICED BY SEVERAL DIFFERENT, BUT EQUALLY SPECIAL TRAINS.

THERE ARE ULTRA-MODERN EXPRESS TRAINS, PANORAMIC TRAINS WITH EXPANSIVE VIEWING WINDOWS, AND CLASSIC TRAINS THAT HARKEN BACK TO THE GOLDEN AGE OF RAIL TRAVEL.

THE TRAIN DROPS ME IN GSTAAD, AN IDYLLIC MOUNTAIN TOWN AND A STRONGHOLD OF OLD EUROPEAN REFINEMENT.

IT'S EARNED A REPUTATION AS AN ELITE WINTER GETAWAY FOR THE WORLD'S RICH AND FAMOUS.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE RAILROAD BROUGHT THE FIRST TOURISTS HERE IN 1905.

WHEN A SKI SCHOOL OPENED 20 YEARS LATER, GSTAAD'S REPUTATION WAS SEALED.

IT'S ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS RESORTS TOWNS IN SWITZERLAND, AND IT'S ENTERTAINED KINGS, QUEENS, AND HOLLYWOOD ROYALTY FOR NEARLY A CENTURY.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: LOUIS ARMSTRONG AND GRACE KELLY BOTH VACATIONED HERE.

NOWADAYS, LUXURY HOTELS LIKE THE ALPINA, WITH ITS SUMPTUOUS SUITES AND LAVISH AMENITIES, HOST MORE RECENT CELEBRITIES SUCH AS QUENTIN TARANTINO AND MADONNA.

BUT DESPITE ALL ITS FAME, THE TOWN ITSELF REMAINS SURPRISINGLY DOWN TO EARTH.

I'M REALLY EXCITED ABOUT THIS NEXT ACTIVITY.

BIKING IN THE SNOW IS ALL THE RAGE HERE IN SWITZERLAND.

AND TO DO IT, YOU GOTTA HAVE A FAT BIKE.

OH, JEEZ.

HOLY COW.

[LAUGHS] IN THE "HARDER THAN IT LOOKS" CATEGORY.

BE CAREFUL NOW.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE BIKES GET THEIR NAME FROM THEIR EXTRA WIDE TIRES, EVEN WIDER THAN MOUNTAIN BIKES, AND ARE GREAT FOR TAKING ON SNOW AND OTHER ROUGH TERRAIN.

RIDING THEM IS PRETTY MUCH LIKE RIDING A REGULAR BIKE, ALTHOUGH THE FRAMES ARE A BIT WIDER, SO TURNS CAN TAKE SOME GETTING USED TO.

MAN: YOU KNOW, THE GOOD THING ABOUT FAT BIKING IS EVERYBODY KNOWS, ALMOST EVERYBODY, KNOWS HOW TO RIDE A BIKE, SO YOU DON'T NEED TO LEARN SPECIAL SKILLS BECAUSE IF YOU CAN RIDE A BIKE, YOU CAN RIDE A FAT BIKE, AND YOU'RE HAVING FUN.

FAUTSCHI: IF YOU'RE SCARED ABOUT GOING FAST, IT'S NOT A GOOD THING.

YOU NEED TO LET YOUR BIKE, A LITTLE BIT, GO FREE, BECAUSE IT SHAKES A LITTLE BIT ON THE SNOW.

BUT FINALLY THE GOOD THING IS IF YOU CRASH, YOU HAVE A SOFT LANDING.

WILSON: THAT'S TRUE.

EXACTLY.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THIS REGION IS WELL KNOWN FOR ONE PARTICULARLY SWISS ART FORM-- PAPER CUTTING.

VIRTUALLY EVERY HOME HERE, FROM THE MOST MODEST FARMHOUSE TO THE MOST EXTRAVAGANT CHALET, DISPLAYS ONE OF THESE INCREDIBLY PAINSTAKING WORKS OF ART.

THE TECHNIQUE HAS ROOTS IN ASIA AND THE MIDDLE EAST WHERE CUT PAPER WAS USED FOR SHADOW PUPPETS.

IT GRADUALLY MADE ITS WAY TO SWITZERLAND AROUND 300 YEARS AGO.

UELI HAUSWIRTH IS A MASTER.

SO WHO BROUGHT THE PAPER CUTTING TO THIS AREA OF SWITZERLAND?

[SPEAKING GERMAN] TRANSLATOR: SO THIS WAS-- THE FIRST PERSON HERE WAS JOHAN JACOB HAUSWIRTH.

AND HE LIVED HERE IN THE SAANEN AREA AND HE TRAVELED FROM FARM TO FARM.

AND HE DID THIS PAPER CUTTINGS ALSO TO BE ABLE TO SLEEP THERE, AS A PAYMENT.

AND HE WAS A COUSIN OF ONE OF HIS RELATIVES.

WILSON: OH, OK. [SPEAKING GERMAN] OK, SO THIS MAN WAS THE COUSIN OF HIS GREAT-GREAT- GREAT-GRANDFATHER.

WILSON: SO, IT'S IN HIS BLOOD.

IT'S IN HIS BLOOD.

YEAH, DEFINITELY.

SO WHY TO YOU LOVE PAPER CUTTING?

AND WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO SPEND YOUR LIFE DOING THIS?

[SPEAKING GERMAN] HE SAYS THAT HE'S ACTUALLY TELLING HIS STORY WITH THE PAPER CUTTINGS.

SO HE'S CUTTING HIS STORY.

WELL, IT'S EXTRAORDINARY.

IT'S REALLY EXTRAORDINARY WORK, SO WE APPRECIATE HIS SHOWING IT TO US.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: 10 MILES FROM GSTAAD, NEAR THE TOWN OF LES DIABLERETS, THE GLACIER 3000 CABLE CARS AND LIFTS CARRY VISITORS TO NEARLY 10,000-FOOT HEIGHTS.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, THIS WAS CONSIDERED A DANGEROUS AND CURSED PLACE WHERE THE DEVIL CAME TO MAKE MISCHIEF.

THERE ARE NO SIGNS OF DIABOLICAL WORKS TODAY, EXCEPT FOR MAYBE THE WEATHER, WHICH IS LESS THAN IDEAL FOR THE AREA'S ONLY SKIABLE GLACIER.

THE HIGHLIGHT FOR ME IS THE PEAK WALK.

IT'S THE ONLY SUSPENSION BRIDGE IN THE WORLD THAT CONNECTS TWO MOUNTAIN PEAKS.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: THIS LOFTY CROSSING IS NEARLY THE LENGTH OF FOOTBALL FIELD.

ON CLEAR DAYS, IT OFFERS INTREPID WALKERS VIEWS OF THE ALPS.

BUT TODAY IT'S AN EERIE, ALMOST MYSTICAL PASSAGE OVER THE FOG-SHROUDED ABYSS BELOW.

THOSE WHO WANT TO TAKE THEIR MEALS TO GREAT HEIGHTS HEAD TO THE SMALL AND COZY REFUGE L'ESPACE.

WITH ROOM FOR JUST 30 DINERS, THE RESTAURANT CAN BE REACHED ONLY BY SKIS, SNOW BUS, OR ON FOOT.

[INDISTINCT CHATTER] THE FRIENDLY OWNERS WELCOME GUESTS WITH TASTY LOCAL DELICACIES AND LOTS OF PERSONAL TOUCHES.

WOMAN: YOU JUST DIP IT LIKE-- ALL: CHEERS.

CHEERS TO YOU.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: MORE OF SWITZERLAND IS CALLING, SO I'M BACK ABOARD THE TRAIN, SHUTTLING THROUGH STORYBOOK COUNTRYSIDE AS I HEAD TO THE BIG CITY.

ZURICH, LOUNGING ON THE RIVER LIMMAT, IS NOT ONLY BEAUTIFUL, IT'S EASY TO EXPLORE.

THERE HAVE BEEN SETTLEMENTS ON THIS SITE FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

DURING THE MIDDLE AGES, IT BECAME AN IMPERIAL CITY, ANSWERING ONLY TO THE HOLY ROMAN EMPEROR.

LATER, IT WAS A STRONGHOLD OF MEDIEVAL CRAFT GUILDS, WHICH EVEN TODAY HAVE INFLUENCE HERE.

SWITZERLAND WAS NEUTRAL DURING WORLD WAR II, SO ZURICH ESCAPED THE BOMBING THAT RAVAGED SO MANY EUROPEAN CITIES.

IT RETAINS MUCH OF ITS HISTORICAL ARCHITECTURE AND CHARM.

THE ROMANESQUE-STYLE GROSSMUNSTER STANDS GALLANTLY OVER THE CITY.

LEGEND HOLDS THAT THE CHURCH WAS FOUNDED BY CHARLEMAGNE AFTER HIS HORSE FELL TO ITS KNEES ON THE GRAVES OF EARLY CHRISTIAN MARTYRS WHO WERE BURIED HERE.

ZURICH HAS LONG BEEN A CULTURAL MAGNET, ATTRACTING SUCH INTELLECTUALS AS LENIN, CARL JUNG, AND JAMES JOYCE.

AND IT WAS HERE THAT THE DADAIST ARTS MOVEMENT WAS BORN.

DADAISM BURST ONTO THE SCENE IN THE EARLY 20th CENTURY, SHOCKING CONSERVATIVE EUROPEAN AUDIENCES WITH ITS PROVOCATIVE WORKS.

[ROCK MUSIC PLAYING] WILSON, VOICEOVER: THE BIRTH OF THE MOVEMENT CAN BE TRACED TO CABARET VOLTAIRE, WHERE A GROUP OF YOUNG ARTISTS AND WRITERS LED BY EXILED GERMAN POET HUGO BALL GAVE OFTEN RAUCOUS PERFORMANCES OF SPOKEN WORD, MUSIC, AND DANCE.

[ROCK MUSIC PLAYING] TODAY, THE CITY CONTINUES TO DRAW IN THE CURIOUS AND THE UNCONVENTIONAL.

AN URBAN REVIVAL IS HAPPENING IN ZURICH WEST, ONCE AN INDUSTRIAL SECTION OF TOWN.

HERE, OLD WAREHOUSES AND FACTORIES HAVE BEEN RECLAIMED BY YOUNG ARTISTS, MUSICIANS, AND OTHER INNOVATORS WHO ARE INJECTING A WAVE OF CREATIVE ENERGY INTO THE CITY.

IT'S BECOME A HUB OF MULTICULTURAL RESTAURANTS, INTERNATIONAL SHOPPING, AND NIGHTLIFE.

THE CITY IS GREAT, BUT I'M READY FOR ANOTHER OUTDOOR ADVENTURE.

I HAVE ONE MORE VERY SPECIAL PLACE TO VISIT.

A TWO-HOUR TRAIN RIDE FROM ZURICH, MOUNT RIGI MAKES AN EASY DAY TRIP OR A GREAT OVERNIGHT DESTINATION.

YOU CAN TAKE THE TRAIN DIRECTLY OR GO VIA LUCERNE.

THE ADVANTAGE OF GOING THROUGH LUCERNE IS THAT THE SECOND HALF OF THE JOURNEY IS A BOAT RIDE ACROSS THE LAKE, ALL INCLUDED IN THE SWISS TRAVEL PASS.

IN THE MORNING LIGHT, LAKE LUCERNE IS AN ENCHANTED LAKE, WITH SOFTLY RIPPLING WATER VIEWED AGAINST A BACKDROP OF MOUNTAINS.

THE BOAT DOCKS IN THE 1,000-YEAR-OLD PORT OF VITZNAU.

FROM THERE, IT'S JUST A FEW STEPS TO THE RIGI MOUNTAIN RAILWAY.

THIS COGWHEEL TRAIN IS A HISTORIC TREASURE.

OPENED IN 1871, IT WAS EUROPE'S FIRST MOUNTAIN RAIL.

SWISS ENGINEER NIKLAUS RIGGENBACH PATENTED THE TECHNOLOGY, WHICH USED COGGED WHEELS THAT INTERLOCKED WITH TEETH ON THE RAIL TRACKS.

THESE VINTAGE CARS CARRIED AWESTRUCK PASSENGERS UP THE SIDE OF RIGI, JUST AS THEY DO TODAY.

DUBBED THE QUEEN OF THE MOUNTAINS, RIGI IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES THAT SEEMS TO INSPIRE EVERYONE WHO VISITS.

MARK TWAIN WROTE THAT IT "COMMANDS A MIGHTY PROSPECT OF BLUE LAKES, GREEN VALLEYS, AND SNOWY MOUNTAINS."

AND ROMANTIC LANDSCAPE PAINTER J.M.W.

TURNER IMMORTALIZED IT IN MISTY WATERCOLORS.

RIGI HAS PLENTY TO KEEP WINTER SPORTS FANS HAPPY.

SKIING, SLEDDING, YOU NAME IT.

I'M TRYING MY HAND, OR SHOULD I SAY MY FOOT, AT ANOTHER BACKCOUNTRY SPORT, SNOW SHOEING.

THEY SAY IF YOU CAN WALK, YOU CAN SNOWSHOE.

AND THAT'S TRUE.

WHILE THE FIRST FEW STEPS MAY SEEM A LITTLE BIT AWKWARD, YOU PICK IT UP PRETTY QUICKLY.

WILSON, VOICEOVER: AND THERE'S NOTHING BORING ABOUT SNOWSHOEING, ESPECIALLY SURROUNDED BY SCENERY LIKE THIS.

AT 5,900 FEET, RIGI KULM IS THE HIGHEST POINT ON THE MOUNTAIN.

HERE, YOU CAN LOOK OUT OVER LAKE LUCERNE AND THE ALPS TO SOUTH, AND AS FAR AS GERMANY TO THE NORTH.

THE SWISS ALPS DEFINITELY SURPASS ALL MY WINTER ADVENTURE EXPECTATIONS.

THEY THRILL MY SPIRIT AND CHILL MY TOES.

COME IN FROM THE COLD BY SAMPLING A WARM FONDUE AT RESTAURANT BARGGNUSS.

THIS DISH, WHICH IS ALMOST SYNONYMOUS WITH SWITZERLAND, IS MADE OF MELTED CHEESE, TYPICALLY BLENDED WITH WHITE WINE AND SEASONING.

MAN: OK, WE HAVE TO START TO STIR.

MMM.

THE SWISS EAT FONDUE MOSTLY IN THE WINTERTIME.

THEY LOVE THE SOCIAL ASPECT OF IT.

EVERYBODY SITTING AROUND THE TABLE EATING OUT THE SAME POT, AND JUST HAVING A GOOD TIME.

[INDISTINCT CHATTER] WILSON, VOICEOVER: THERE ARE NO WINTER ACHES AND PAINS THAT CAN'T BE SOOTHED AWAY AT RIGI KALTBAD.

HELLO.

THIS SPA WAS DESIGNED BY MARIO BOTTA, ARCHITECT OF THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART IN SAN FRANCISCO.

THE MULTIPLE POOLS AND TRANQUIL LOUNGING AREAS ARE A VERY MODERN TAKE ON A BATHING TRADITION THAT DATES BACK MORE THAN 400 YEARS HERE ON RIGI.

I FEEL CONFIDENT MY DOCTOR WOULD RECOMMEND A HOT STONE MASSAGE AS THE BEST WAY TO PREPARE MY MUSCLES FOR ONE LAST WINTER ADVENTURE.

EVER DREAMED OF FLYING?

WELL, THIS IS THE PLACE TO DO IT.

RIGI OFFERS TANDEM PARAGLIDING FLIGHTS.

NO EXPERIENCE NECESSARY.

MAN: 3, 2, 1.

AFTER SOME BRIEF TRAINING, MY SKILLFUL PILOT LAUNCHES US INTO THE WIND.

THE WING MOVES UP CARRYING US HIGH INTO THE AIR AND OVER THE MOUNTAINS.

I GET A RUSH OF ADRENALIN AS WE ARE LITERALLY CARRIED AWAY.

IT'S HARD TO IMAGINE ANYTHING MORE THRILLING THAN THIS FLIGHT OVER SNOW-DUSTED ALPINE SLOPES AND SPECTACULAR LAKES.

THE PERFECT WAY TO END MY SWISS WINTER MAGIC TOUR.

I HOPE YOU ENJOYED TAGGING ALONG ON MY LATEST RAIL ADVENTURE.

I THINK I'LL SLEEP WELL TONIGHT WITH DREAMS OF MOUNTAINS, TRAINS, AND FALLING SNOW.

THAT'S THE MAGIC OF WINTER IN SWITZERLAND.

THANKS FOR JOINING ME ON "REAL RAIL ADVENTURES."

ANNOUNCER: ADDITIONAL "REAL RAIL ADVENTURES" INFORMATION, CLIPS, AND LINKS ARE ONLINE AT REALRAILTV.COM.

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