Journey on the Trans-Siberian Railway

(train horn honking) -

Ann

There's nothing more mesmerizing, and at the same time melancholy, than watching the distance scenery pass by from the window of a train. The landscape may change, from flat to mountainous, and from lush to arid. But your thoughts as you stare, are often the same. What is this place? I wonder who lives here? And what it's like to live here. I wonder who has traveled here before me. But when you are riding the rails along the route, that the likes of Genghis Khan and Marco Polo likely crossed, It makes your heartbeat faster. Spanning five time zones, three distinct cultures, and more than 5,000 miles. This is the longest train trip in the world. The Trans-Siberian Railway, ride along with us. -

John

We're Ann Craig Cinnamon and John Cinnamon. And we both have long careers in broadcasting in Indianapolis, Indiana. Since marrying in 1995, we've traveled the world together, visiting more than 100 countries. All seven continents, and all 50 US States. We've done such things as gorilla trekking in Rwanda. Hiking the Himalayas to see Mount Everest. Hot air-ballooning over Kapadokya, Turkey. Exploring Easter Island, on a scooter. And visiting the eerie ghost town of Chernobyl, in Ukraine. -

Ann

When you're a travel junkie, it gets harder and harder to get your fix. Which is why we're always looking for something new and different, experiencing something in a more adventurous way. So, when we discovered you could take the longest train ride in the world, from Moscow to Beijing, with stops in Siberia and Mongolia. We were on board with it, despite knowing that it could be challenging. So, this trip is, a little more nerve-wracking. We don't, we, we don't know, what the train is going to be like. I'm so excited to see it. There's a lot of, it's a lot of things that we're not sure about. But, is it not one of the most exciting, maybe that we've ever done? Oh yeah. Oh, absolutely. When there's, there's a certain segment of our, our friends and people that we talk to, and tell them where we're going on the Trans-Siberian railway, "Really?" I didn't even know there was such a thing. Yeah. - "That sounds awesome." "That sounds so exotic." - "Where does it go?" "What do you do?" Yeah. And then when we, when we, you know, tell them. "That's wow, that's really cool." And of course, then there's the handful of others who say, Oh, we're going to stay, we're gonna be in a train for four days, maybe with two other people in our cabin, Longer than four days. Right, but four days in a row. In a row. And they say, "That sounds awful." (Ann laughs) "I would never want to do that," (Ann continues to laugh) "with strangers, strangers on a train, in a cabin this close?" Could never do that. - No, thanks. That's what he actually said, "what if they pass gas?" (John laughs) What if we do? (Ann laughs) First stop on our more than two week long journey, Moscow. Now, you would think that after going through the rather onerous process of applying for a Russian visa, and receiving it that you'd be in, but not so in John's case. He was singled out upon arrival in Moscow, at immigration, for a more extensive search and interview. -

John

So we get to passport control, at the Moscow airport, and they take my passport and tell me to step aside and wait. I had cleared passport control, and turned around to look at John, and he's standing there going. Well, after waiting about 40 minutes, they finally took me downstairs, to this small office with like Soviet-era furnishings, an old metal desk, a yellow rotary phone. -

Ann

I asked a few people what was going on but they didn't speak much English. But they told me to just wait. So, I picked up our luggage, and sat outside passport control, and waited, and waited. So, they start asking me questions like, "What are you doing in Russia?" "Are you going to be meeting with any politicians?" Then they ask if they can see my cell phone, what am I going to say? No? If only I'd had a working phone, I could have at least texted John, but my phone was dead, and he had the chargers. Well, when they asked for my phone, they started punching in a series of numbers and symbols. And a screen came up that I'd never seen before. It looked like it was a serial number, which they proceeded to write down. -

Ann

By then, passport control was completely shut down, and I was still waiting and scared to death. Well, after more than an hour in custody, I was finally free to go. But, as far as I know, the Kremlin may still be listening. -

Ann

With that rather unnerving episode behind us, we were on our way. -

John

Moscow is a beautiful, vibrant city. Red Square is of course, iconic. The Kremlin is not at all what you might think. There are beautiful churches inside the walls, that has served as the government seat for more than 500 years. The colorful Saint Basil's Cathedral sits at one end of Red Square. Where it's watched over parades, demonstrations and just day-to-day events, for over 500 years. This cathedral was actually nine churches in one. It may be rather ornate on the outside, with its onion dome cupolas, but the inside is not at all what you'd expect of a cathedral. With brick walls and low ceilings and small chapels. I've been to Russia twice and never been inside St. Basil's before. And I've always wanted to come. And it's better than I ever thought it would be. It's, it's, it's not the gilded churches that you usually see. It's just, it's, it's real. It's beautiful. It's a gem. (soft holy singing) -

John

The third major anchor of Red Square, is the GUM department store. The sprawling complex built in the ornate Russian medieval style. Has been a center of commerce since 1893. During the Soviet era, it was common to see people lined up all the way into Red Square, just to get basic consumer goods. Now, more than 150 shops, feature designer clothing and high-end jewelry. You might say it's gone from Pravda to Prada. Something else Moscow is famous for, and proud of, is their subway stations. Some, are actually considered architectural masterpieces. There are stations designed of marble. Others have mosaic ceilings. And then there's Revolution Square station, which has bronze statues of soldiers, that subway riders over the years have fondly rubbed as they head for their train. -

Ann

After touring, shopping and dining on dumplings, for a day or two. We were ready to start the adventure. Our tour guide, Aysa, took us to a local grocery store to buy food. So, the thing is that we are going to spend four days on the train, and dining car may be not available or sometimes you may not like the food, and it's always better to have some food on your own. Plus, it's actually like local, because locals don't go to dining car. -

Ann

Ah huh. -

Aysa

They prepare everything in advance. Like boiling eggs, cooking chicken, wrapping it in tinfoil. We cannot do this, -

Ann

Right. -

Aysa

As we don't have a kitchen. -

Ann

Right. -

Aysa

But we can buy some things, and cook by ourselves too. You know, be like locals. -

Ann

Right, right. So the locals, they do a lot of preparation? -

Aysa

Absolutely. -

Ann

Before they get on the train. So train is all about eating, -

Ann

It is? - It's, it's the culture. So you, once you board the train -

Ann

Ah huh. It hasn't started even yet. -

Ann

Right. - You start eating. And you're sharing food with the neighbors. So, it's better to have something, to be able to share. -

Ann

Oh, I think we need to shop some more. (John laughs) As the time to board the Trans-Siberian Railway approached, we were excited and anxious at the same time. We arrived late in the evening, at the Moscow train station. As famous train, number 100, did not leave until midnight. This was April, and it was still pretty cold at night, in Moscow. And we waited outside to board our home, for the next four nights. If by home, you mean living in a cramped cabin with strangers, eating reconstituted noodles, sharing two rudimentary toilets with 30 plus people, and not properly bathing. Then yes, home sweet home. But that's life for second class travelers on the Trans-Siberian railway. But at least we had doors that allowed for some privacy. Unlike our comrades, in the third class car. Even that is probably luxurious, compared to the way Russians traveled on this train 100 years ago. The Moscow to Vladivostok line opened for service in 1916. And at 5,772 miles, it's still the longest train line in the world. The TSR network, now includes branches that connect North Korea, China and Mongolia. We'll be taking the Mongolian line to our final destination of Beijing. -

Ann

Our second class cabin, is roughly 6 feet by 6 feet. With two lower, and two upper bunks. And a small communal table, with space at a premium. Most of the time in our room, was limited to reading, listening to music, playing cards, trying some impromptu yoga, or generally just trying to get comfortable. The trains dining car provided considerably more space. So, several passengers took advantage of the extra leg room to grab a bite, play games or just sit and chat. A true testament to the international vibe you get on the Trans-Siberian Railway, is this group of women. Two are from Australia, two are from Russia and together, they're playing the uniquely American game of ruthless capitalism, travel Monopoly. -

John

Most everyone on the train eats in their cabin, with meals made up of non-perishable items, or box- noodles that can be cooked using hot water from a dispenser available in each car. -

Ann

How's lunch? It's delicious. Our train fare also included one free boxed meal, which we chose to enjoy in the dining car. Thalia, is the dining car manager, and has worked on the train for seven years. His wife also works as a waitress in the dining car, while their three-year-old son stays at home, with his grandmother. Thalia told us the part of his job he enjoys most, is the communication with people. And he didn't have to think long about his least favorite. (Thalia speaks in Russian) -

Aysa

Drunk Russian men. (group laughs) -

Ann

Which we were able to experience first-hand. This gentlemen in the red coat, engaging with a British traveler, was later wrestled to the floor and taken away in handcuffs. We were told there's a special detention car, for just such occasions. Another longtime railway employee, is our car attendant Joanna one part hostess, one part housekeeper, one part ambassador. Joanna wears many hats, besides the warm furry one. She lives in Vladivostok, and has worked for the Trans-Siberian Railway, for eight years. Joanna told us she likes the job, because she enjoys traveling across her country, and meeting new people. "Are the people friendly?" We asked. (speaking Russian) -

Aysa

Mostly, yes. (laughter) -

Ann

Does she want to tell us, who's not friendly? (Aysa speaking Russian) (Joanna speaking Russian) -

John

We gave Joanna the opportunity to turn the tables on us. If she could ask an American anything, what would it be? (Joanna speaking Russian) Well, we can't speak for all Americans. But our experience has been that the regular Russian, as Joanna says, is friendly and helpful. And that's why we travel, to see and meet people. And get a true sense of them and their country. There are any number of reasons why people travel, or take a specific trip in particular. Gareth Marx of London, England, has been wanting to travel on the Trans-Siberian Railway, for 20 years. What's he most looking forward to? It's just the journey. I mean, Mongolia would be very cool to go and see. But I mean, yeah, seeing Russia, seeing Mongolia and I haven't been to China ever before so, but Mongolia I think is the height of most people here, that everyone wants to see. -

John

But before we get to Mongolia or China, it's more time on the train. Understand, our first four days on the train are not non-stop. In fact, we would make 14 stops at stations along the way, before getting off in Irkutsk. Remember the Trans-Siberian Railway is first and foremost, a commuter line, transporting Russians from one town to another. Some of the stops were as short as 13 minutes. While others were close to an hour. Giving us time to stretch our legs, get some fresh air, do some quick shopping and sight seeing. -

Ann

Most stations were a little more than a glorified convenience store, selling snacks and souvenirs. But others like this one in Yekaterinburg, were truly monuments to Soviet era glory. In addition, to the ornate chandelier, and Soviet events that happened in this area of Russia and Soviet events, that happened in this area of Russia. Including the Downing of Gary Powers, and his U2 spy plane in 1960. Back on the train, recall how we mentioned, not properly bathing? With no showers, and limited bathroom space. During our pre-trained shopping trip, our guide During our pre-trained shopping trip, our guide had suggested stocking up on wet naps. Hopefully, we brought enough. before an actual shower at our hotel in Siberia -

Ann

Next stop, Lake Baikal. So far, we've traveled more than 2,600 miles across five times zones. And we're barely more than halfway through our journey, as we arrive in Irkutsk. The joke among Western civilizations has always been that, being exiled to Siberia was a fate worse than death. While the early 19th century Russian exiles, made the most of it. Because they were mostly intellectuals, they turned Irkutsk into a center of cultural, artistic and educational prosperity. It came to be known as the Paris of Siberia. From here, we'll take a one hour bus ride to the small town of Listvyanka, near the southern tip of Lake Baikal. We'll spend two nights here, before getting back on the rails. -

John

Lake Baikal is the largest freshwater lake by volume in the world. And during our visit in mid-April, the lake is still covered with a thick sheet of winter ice. Although, we were assured it was safe to walk on. You can tell some still made the initial trek rather gingerly. (tourists chattering) Even with the lake frozen over, the locals still take advantage of a relatively warm day, to come to the rocky beach, and enjoy food games or ride on an ATV, or a hovercraft, or just hang out with their best friend. Families having fun on a lakeside beach is clearly universal. No matter what time of year. -

Ann

We're told that within couple of weeks, the ice will be gone, and the hovercrafts will give way to boats. But for now, a hovercraft it is. We took a ride across the lake to this section of track formerly used by the Trans-Siberian Railway. Now, they use it for local trains around the perimeter of the lake. -

John

Back in downtown Listvyanka, the Saturday market is in full swing. Your choices range from fish to, well, fish. Actually, they do have fruits, nuts and cured meats, as well as a variety of kitschy souvenirs. It's kind of a combination farmer's market, and tourist trap. Complete with the full array of traditional Russian nesting dolls or Matryoshkas. But not all nesting dolls are painted to look like adorable Babushkas. Some, are of a more authoritative nature. -

Ann

With our preconceived notion of Siberia, as a gray and desolate wasteland shattered by this beautiful sunset. as well as the friendly people, colorful market and playful families on the beach. We'd bid farewell to Listvyanka, and head back to Irkutsk, where we'll board the train and head south. This is where we changed to the Tran-Mongolian leg of the Trans-Siberian Railway. -

John

A new train, and new cabin mates await us, on the next part of the journey. As the landscape begins to change outside our window, we know that we're getting closer to our next and most anticipated stop, Mongolia. It was our first visit, and we had visions of a vast wasteland, of step, nomads, and people on horseback with falcons. What we found at our first stop, was the very modern capital city of Ulaanbataar, with one and a half million inhabitants. It has tall buildings, wide boulevards, huge plazas and temples, but it also has shopping malls, and stores offering all manner of cashmere. Since Mongolia, is the largest exporter of Kashmir in the world. -

Ann

Mongolian barbecue, is not something the Western world made up. It's the real deal. And there's cuisine from all over the world available in Ulaanbataar. Even a little taste of home. being from Kentucky, and having met Colonel Sanders as a child. I can't tell you how comforting it is. to see his face pasted in the most far-flung exotic places around the planet. We also took in some traditional Mongolian entertainment with it's brightly colored costumes, unique instruments and a form of singing. that we had never heard before. It's called throat-singing. And it's amazing. -

John

The next day, we were off to see the real Mongolia, the scenic step, the mountains and forests where nomads live among horses and yaks. Almost 1/3 of the Mongolian population of 3 million people are nomads. That may have been the single most fascinating thing we learned. In an age where so many people in the world, live in huge cities and work at regular jobs, and go to their homes or apartments. There are still 800,000 people in Mongolia. Who live off the land and move around based on the weather. These nomads live in what they call gers, known elsewhere as yurts. Which are large, round, insulated and collapsible tents that whole families live in. They take them apart and move them wherever they go. On the way to the camp, we made a stop at this enormous stainless steel statue of Mongolia's favorite son. Chenghis Khan, you know him as Genghis. But it is, in fact Chengis. That's because shortly after his reign in the early 13th century. Tales of his exploits were written in languages that didn't have the ch sound. So Chenghis, became Genghis. Oh, and that business about him fathering so many children, that an outsize number of people today, can trace their ancestry directly to him. It turns out that's a bit of a stretch too. The Mongol empire founders wanted a 30 foot tall statue, built in 2008. Has an observation deck on the horses head, that gives you a panoramic view of the surrounding Mongolian step. We traveled for hours across this region, to get to our ger camp where we would spend the night. -

John

Our camp was made up of a dozen or so gers. Set in a forested area with mountains is a backdrop. It was serene. And the air was about as clean as it gets, except for the smell of a fire burning in the kitchen ger, preparing our lunch. We had a ger all to ourselves, and it was quite spacious with three twin beds, a sink, a stove to keep warm by, and even a skylight, all the comforts of home, except, of course, for a bathroom, which was a short walk down the hill. We're not talking about a modern flushing toilet now, It's more like a latrine that they refer to as the long drop. The women, got the super deluxe one with the seat and everything. The men, just a hole in the floor. Meals were traditional and delicious and served in the largest ger in the camp. Our guide Nimo, which is short for something we can't pronounce. took us on a long, mid day hike of the surrounding mountains. And to a temple that was situated amidst the mountain range, with a beautiful view of the valley below. Nimo, seen here with our Mongolian driver, was quite an interesting person. His English was perfect. And we were told as Russian was even better. He had been a doctor, but he made so little working at a hospital in Ulaanbataar, that he became a tour guide instead. His father, who he's only seen once, since he was a young child is still a nomad. And Nimo was born in a ger. -

Ann

Okay. -

Ann

Was it a hard life? Difficult? -

Ann

Oh -

Ann

It's cold. (Ann chuckles) It was a surprise to learn that a Mongolian tour guide, was a big fan of the NBA and he has his favorite players. -

Ann

Reggie Miller, -

John

You know your NBA. -

Ann

You do. -

Ann

Oh, okay. -

Ann

Nimo's says NBA basketball, is big with Mongolian youth. The next morning we woke to a burned out fire. and frigid temperatures. So, the walk to the long drop was brisk. After breakfast, we tried our hand at the traditional Mongolian sport of archery before heading back to Ulaanbataar, where the train awaited. -

John

The 30 hour trip from Ulaanbataar to Beijing is the last leg of our journey on the train. During this particular trek, we met Carlos and Herman from the Netherlands, and Christian from Germany. who are all on the same route that we were. (men laughing) -

Ann

So, why are you doing this? Why, why are you taking this trip? So, it's a holiday. And we started in Moscow, and final destination for us and him is Beijing. -

Ann

Ah huh. Wanted to do this for a long time already. Yeah, bucket list. Yeah, part of the bucket list yeah. (guys laugh) -

Ann

Favorite part so far? The last stop in Ulaanbataar, and yeah, to go out to the nomads and yeah, just to see the ger camps and how they live in. This was awesome to see, because it's so far away from our understanding of living, and -

Ann

Right. Yeah. Cooking and yeah. -

Ann

Oh yeah. Just have no, nothing to do more or less. Yeah. No, no work. And just kind of, we know work. -

Ann

Right. That's it yeah. -

Ann

My least favorite part four days without a shower, did that bother you at all? (guys laugh) Not at all. (laughter continues) -

Ann

One of those things you can give up. Right? Yeah, yeah. The first day you shower after the train was heaven. -

Ann

Yeah. Yeah it was, wasn't it? -

John

This section of the railway rolls through Mongolia's Gobi desert. Yep, that's a desert, all right. It would be our last overnight on the train but it was a long overnight. We got to the Mongolia/China border

at about 10

00 pm. Where we had to get off the train with all of our luggage and go through passport control and wait for them to change the wheels to the different track gauge used in China. The whole process took about five hours. -

Ann

at about 10

Our time on the Trans-Siberian, Trans-Mongolian Railway was coming to an end. By midday, the next day, we started to see the outskirts of Beijing. Followed by the skyscrapers of downtown. We had visited the Chinese capital 16 years before, and it was big then, but it's a monster now. With an interesting mix of old and new. Not far from the forbidden city, which was home to Chinese emperors for almost 600 years, are brand spanking new gigantic shopping malls. -

John

at about 10

But the sight that cannot be missed, is a short drive outside the city. The Great Wall of China truly is one of the great wonders of the world. Actually a series of fortifications, the original wall was begun as early as the 7th century BC. But none of that remains. Most of the wall that you can visit today, was built beginning in the 14th century, by the Ming dynasty. Believed to have been built for defense and border control. It stretches an unbelievable 5,500 miles across northern mountains. It's not an easy walk in the wall, with lots of steps in climbing. The higher you go, the more spectacular the view. This 76 year old woman, made the journey for the first time with her grandson. And he says, they loved it. -

Ann

at about 10

First time on the wall? -

Ann

at about 10

And you loved it? You love it? -

Ann

at about 10

It's beautiful. -

Ann

at about 10

It is just beautiful. -

Ann

at about 10

Ah huh. She knows this story? Yes. -

Ann

at about 10

and she's told it to you? -

Ann

at about 10

Yeah. -

Ann

at about 10

Ah. -

John

at about 10

The great wall in every way, takes your breath away. -

Ann

at about 10

Perhaps, the only other Beijing attraction that can possibly rival the great wall, is the giant pandas. China's national symbol is so popular that they have their own pavilion at the Beijing zoo. Every single panda in the world belongs to China. That's because giant pandas in the wild are only found in the remote mountainous regions of central China. Pandas aren't really the cuddly creatures they appear to be. They can be dangerous. Although the ones at the zoo, appear to enjoy sleeping most of the time. The Chinese are crazy about their pandas. The pavilion is packed with people, and the gift shop is full of tons of panda stuffed animals, and other toys. Even goofy American tourists get into the act. -

John

at about 10

One of the most popular ways for locals to get around Beijing is by bicycle. But given the number of cars, pedestrians, and other bikes, riding a bicycle in this crowded unfamiliar city is not for the faint of heart. So, of course we decided to give it a shot. Without the app on our phone to rent the public bikes. We've got an assist from several nearby hotel workers and we were on our way. Thank you, thank you. Okay. -

John

at about 10

Okay. I think we're ready now. We finally got our bikes, -

John

at about 10

Okay. And I'm all set because I've got, my backpack, bottle of water, and just in case we have to make a stop somewhere, 'cause we're in China, toilet paper. -

John

at about 10

Okay. But the most important thing, is our travel insurance paid up? (Ann laughs) Even with dedicated lanes for bicycles and motorcycles. It was still no picnic with close calls, a common occurrence. -

Ann

at about 10

There's no denying that for the average American, who's never been to Beijing. The name Tienanmen Square probably conjures images of the 1989 uprising with tanks, protestors, and the iconic tank man. And while there's still an unmistakable police presence and high security, getting into the square. The atmosphere we found on this typical Sunday afternoon 30 years later was clearly more relaxed. -

John

at about 10

The enormous 100 acre space, sits in the geographic center of the city, and was filled with families and tourists doing what families and tourists do in parks and squares all over the world. Snapping selfies, taking pictures, in this case, in front of the nearby forbidden city. And doing whatever it is this woman is doing. One of the locals took a particular liking to Ann, and included her in an impromptu video selfie. In general, we found the Chinese people friendly, welcoming and always eager for a picture with their foreign visitors. -

Ann

at about 10

We were at the end of our more than two week journey, and had come a very long way. We had not only traveled 5,000 miles by train. We had experienced three distinctly different cultures -

John

at about 10

But as our Russian guide Aysa, who has led this trip several times previously has discovered. People are, people. Despite all the differences, and we are really very different cultures. And even lifestyle is different. No matter how global, globalized we are now. We're still people. So you still see the same thing everywhere. -

Ann

at about 10

People travel for lots of different reasons. We do it for the education, because travel is an education like none other. It brings history alive. It makes geography personal. And it is a cultural bridge. It's about knowing what a place on the other side of the globe feels like. -

John

at about 10

It's about the people you meet along the way the faces you remember, and the memories you create. It's about how people react to you, when they find out that you're American. And what fun it can be to discuss politics with people whose government is different than your own. They may not look like you, and they may live differently. But they are still people. -

Ann

at about 10

Perhaps the most important lesson though, is what you learned about yourself. Travel can test your fortitude, your patience, and give you more insight, into what you are capable of doing. It may not always be easy, but it's definitely worthwhile. Sometimes though, it is just about the journey (upbeat music) (bright music)