Curious Traveler

This World Heritage Site in North America was once one of Spain's most prosperous colonies. It's known for its beautiful little cobblestone streets, its arts, and its festivals. Bienvenido a Guanajuato! Remember when you were a child and all you asked was why, why, why?

Well I never quite outgrew that whole quest for knowledge phase. In fact I've made a career out of asking who, what, where, why, and how as an arts and travel journalist for the past 20 years. So if I have an insatiable curiosity about the exciting, inspiring, beautiful world of art, architecture, and hidden history all around us, I bet you do too. This isn't your typical what to do on a vacation travel show oh no, this is your all-access pass to a deeper understanding of the world's great art and architecture, people and places, history and how did they do thats.

So come along on our educational journey, our field trip for grownups who have never quite grown up, and learn on Curious Traveler. (Mexican guitar music) This colorful valley town in Mexico looks like a painting with blocks of bright colors dancing up the hillsides. The name of this town translates to hilly place of frogs, because I guess the hills kind of look like frogs. Guanajuato City has so much to be curious about.

Guanajuato City is the capital of the state of Guanajuato, which is in central Mexico. For thousands of years indigenous peoples lived here near the river at the bottom of the valley. Although, where is that river today? Instead, in that same valley today you see gorgeous Baroque architecture, Spanish colonial churches and public buildings, and postcard-perfect brightly-colored houses and lovely winding streets, which never would have been here if it weren't for one really important shiny object, and a couple of donkeys.

So here's what I'm curious about in Guanajuato City, Mexico. How did silver shape a city? Why are these streets and alleys so winding, and this particular alley so narrow? How do we walk on water along this main street?

What does this church have to do with the King of Spain, and why is it yellow? Why are the columns on this church so important, and why is it connected to this university? What is the Paris Opera House and this Paris train station doing in the middle of Mexico? What's so important about this grain storehouse?

And the most curious question of all, who the heck is this giant overlooking Guanajuato? (upbeat music) Guanajuato City's curious history begins as many cities do, with its source of life. How did the river help shape the city? This is a good question, the river, for all the civilizations is the water.

Water is the life, so Guanajuato lived for many centuries for the river. They drank the water from the river, and the river crossed all the city, it crossed all the city for a lot of centuries. -

Christine

But if you want to take a dip into Guanajuato River today, that's going to be a challenge, because it's not here anymore. Why? Well, because silver and other precious minerals were discovered in these hills. In fact, between the 16th and the 18th centuries, Guanajuato was one of the top silver mining centers in the entire world.

And, where there is wealth to be had, a European colony will soon be formed. So, Spain established their colonies here in the 16th and 17th centuries. But what does all that have to do with the missing river? Well, it has a little something to do with that silver, those froggy hills, and some donkeys.

The mines were in that mountain in the back, and they brought the minerals with donkeys. From where the mines were, which were up in the hills, on the backs of donkeys down to the river. Yeah, to the river to process the minerals. -

Christine

But eventually the threat of flooding from that river threatened the donkeys' little feet, and I guess more importantly the precious silver mines too. So, the river was covered over and moved underground. And even later, those underground river tunnels became underground streets for cars and even the occasional brave pedestrian or two. And above ground, while you may not be able to swim in the river anymore you can still follow its path.

All the streets of the city, they were small rivers that all came together. So the shape of the river is now the shape of the streets, the streets are there because of the shape of the river. Yes, you're right. That's why Guanajuato is like this.

You know, we call them urban plans, but nobody designed the city, it was growing very natural like a flower, like a plant. -

Christine

The fact that these streets and alleys used to be rivers and streams explains why they are so darn winding. High heels are not recommended here. And some of those winding streets are decorated with beautiful artwork. Guanajuato is known for its beautiful little alleyways that follow that original river and streams.

It is also known for its wonderful artists. Now, along this particular wall, graffiti artists were displaying their works, and this particular homeowner did not like that so much. So he painted over all the graffiti and added these beautiful religious paintings. I'm just going to guess that this particular painting was done as a warning to those graffiti guys.

Which brings us to the wonderful art scene and art history here in Guanajuato. Today it is known for its year-round arts festivals, like the famous Festival Internacional Cervantino. And one of the most famous Mexican artists in history was born right here in Guanajuato City. Diego Rivera is known for his brightly colored murals that depicted the life and often the struggles of the working class, and also of his fellow native Mexicans.

His works were often controversial, making statements on the social and political issues of his time. Many of Diego Rivera's works are displayed around the world, from his murals to his cubist paintings, but Rivera was born here in Guanajuato City. And you can visit his birthplace and first home, which has now been turned into a museum, with a permanent exhibit of some of his original works and sketches. So it's really no surprise that Diego Rivera's hometown is still awash in color and art, from the rooftops to those brightly painted alleyways.

The alleys here in Guanajuato are of course known for being very winding and narrow, but none quite as narrow as this. This is the legendary Callejon del Beso, with a little bit of a Romeo and Juliet history to it. If you look up and you see how close those two balconies are well legend has it that two feuding families lived there, and the daughter and son of each family were close enough to kiss, so today if you sneak a kiss here in the alley then you will have good luck. Now that you've sneaked a smooch, let's scooch along the path of that underwater river, fittingly named Calle Subterranea, to the main town square Plaza de la Paz, the Plaza of Peace.

Here in Plaza de la Paz you will find two very important women. On the statue in the middle of the plaza is a goddess representing peace. Behind her is the basilica dedicated to Our Lady of Guanajuato. The Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato is one of the grandest monuments to its Spanish colonial history.

When Spain established its colony here, it of course brought its Spanish customs, including its religion and its architecture. And this particular bit of architecture has some beautifully curious features. It is set on a hill to make it seem even more magnificent from below, and from above it seems to be elevated above the entire city. Construction began in 1671 but it was improved upon over the years.

That impressive dome is Baroque, painted a vibrant red. The entrance is made of local pink sandstone, with carvings of the saints, but why is the main part of the church yellow? They think this is one of the original colors of the church you know, powerful yellow, orange, very, it's the color of the ground. Oh, okay!

So that's indicative of the time. -

Christine

So awash with the colors of the earth, the basilica reaches into the heavens overlooking her city. But the most curious feature of all is inside the basilica, a sacred artifact believed to have been hidden away in a cave for 800 years. Coming from Spain, from Granada was a present from the king of Spain to Guanajuato. So it's dedicated to the miners, the people from the city.

-

Christine

That present is this statue of the Virgin Mary, which according to legend was hidden away in a cave when the Moors invaded Spain back in the 700s. And then, about 800 years later in 1557, King Phillip II of Spain gifted this precious little statue to the miners of Guanajuato. That ought to tell you how much Spain valued that silver, and how much Guanajuato still values this sacred statue. She takes care for us, for the city, for centuries.

So everybody who lives in Guanajuato are very devoted to this virgin. So that's the heart of religion of everybody who lives in Guanajuato. (soft piano music) -

Christine

While Our Lady is revered as the protector of the city, our next glorious church was left abandoned for years, but why? This is the beautiful Compania de Jesus church, built in 1765. It is one of the oldest churches still standing here in Guanajuato. Just like Guanajuato Basilica, the Templo de la Compania de Jesus, or simply La Compania, is a result of the wealth of the silver mines.

It was built by the Jesuits, which is where we get its name, Compania de Jesus, or Society of Jesus, as the Jesuit order was called. The Jesuits were very powerful in Spain, so it's no surprise that they would establish such a monumental church here in New Spain, which included Mexico and its other colonies in the Americas. While the Jesuits built many churches throughout Mexico, the Compania de Jesus is one of the largest and most grand. It remains one of the most beautiful examples of Baroque architecture throughout Central and South America, but it's not just any type of Baroque.

There's certain features that are here that tell us why it's a Mexican Baroque, not just plain old everyday Baroque. Something that we can difference between all the Baroques is the column that you can see. We call it estipite. Estipite, like that.

Estipite, yeah. An estipite column is a uniquely Spanish type of column. It's kind of like a pedestal or an inverted cone, wider at the top and narrower at the base. It is typical of Churrigueresque architecture.

Churrigueresque is Mexican Baroque or Rococo, where more is more. If you think you've added on enough detail, enough faces, flowers, and flourishes, well then pile on some more and you'll have Churrigueresque. And, as if the impressive and imposing beauty of the church weren't enough, when the church was built there was an entire seminary built here too. But where is it?

This is the dome of the church we were just standing inside, so as you leave the church there's always been this beautiful courtyard here, and then as you look up you can see the courtyard leads right into what used to be the Jesuits' seminary. Now today, that's actually part of the university, but you see all the beautiful ornate entryways there? Those actually came from different churches at the silver mines so this area for centuries has been not only sacred, but quite curious. And one of those miners' churches is this one, Templo la Valenciana.

It sits near the La Valenciana mine, once the biggest source of silver in the area. It was built in the late 18th century, and just like the Jesuits' church it also is Churrigueresque in style, and uses that lovely local pink limestone. Inside there are gorgeous golden altar pieces, ivory and wooden carvings, and beautiful paintings. But,

here's the best part

legend says that the owner built this church as a thank-you to his patron saint for making him rich on all that silver. Now, back down to the main part of town, and to those miner church facades here on the university. This building was originally the Jesuits' seminary, so how and why did it become a public university? Well, because in 1767, just two years after the church was built, Spain thought the Jesuits were becoming too rich and powerful, so they kicked all the Jesuits out of the Spanish colonies, including Guanajuato.

So, the Compania de Jesus church lay abandoned for years, and later the Jesuits' seminary became the University of Guanajuato. And just when you thought you'd climbed enough hills and steps in Guanajuato, of course there's even more steps, leading up to the university, Guanajuato's temple to knowledge. But, aren't they lovely? (upbeat music) From a temple of knowledge to a temple to the arts, we now head to the center of town, where Guanajuato's architecture tells its history.

Here in the center of town there is beautiful, European-inspired architecture everywhere you look. One of the most beautiful examples is right here, at Teatro Juarez, built in 1873. There are these gorgeous allegories to the arts all along the rooftop, including music and theater. Why?

Well, this theater was meant to be the Paris Opera House for the city. Just like the Paris Opera House and other opera houses in Europe, Teatro Juarez has Neoclassical and Baroque elements, with muses adorning its rooftop. Construction began under architect Jose Noriega, but he didn't finish, and why he didn't finish makes the Teatro Juarez a tangible reminder of a turbulent time in Guanajuato's history. You know, he lived in one time when Mexico has a lot of problems.

War between the liberals and conservatives people, a lot of change, a lot of wars, so it was a very unstable time. So he did the design, he started and almost finished, but sadly to many circumstances the money was gone. -

Christine

here's the best part

But finally and thankfully, in 1903 the curtain went up in Teatro Juarez. (peaceful orchestral music) And then this gorgeous theater became so much more than just a venue for the arts. It became a status symbol for the city. Guanajuato leaves a historical moment very important, because Mexico City has beautiful buildings, like Bellas Artes, it was already built.

So we are in provincia, we're called, you know outside of the capital, so the cities around the big capitals need to be grown. That's true, to compete with the big cities, say "we're here, we're just as important." Yeah, you're right. Yeah. But in order to make that statement, which style to use?

Well how about all of them? Guanajuato in this time has a different style of architecture, like you can see here. We call it eclectic style, what it does mean? It means the influence of the past, of the historical styles.

-

Christine

here's the best part

That's right, while outside we have Roman and Greek, inside we have Asian and Moorish elements, and then upstairs we're back to those European styles that look straight out of Paris. The theater enjoyed its heyday during the fan de cicla, when ladies and gentlemen dressed to the nines to enjoy an evening of theater. After a hundred years we still have the place, it has a particular spirit so you can feel some sensation. Or the history and the beauty altogether.

See, this is beauty, but it's a memory. (gentle piano music) -

Christine

here's the best part

Next, from elegant to practical, we now visit another impressive building, where you can buy your daily groceries. I go every day to buy the newspaper and seafood, you know it's one of my favorite places, because my school and my work is here, so it's part of my walking every day. Part of your daily routine, like everyone who lives here. The Mercado Hidalgo is part of everyone's daily life here in Guanajuato, and it has been since it opened in 1910, the centennial year of Mexican independence.

But this market looks a little curious, doesn't it? From its grand archway entrance, with ornate lighting fixtures, and its soaring 230-foot high, 115-foot wide barrel vaulted ceiling. It looks like a train station. Like the Paris train stations?

Yeah, yeah, the Paris train station. With the iron and the glass ceiling. Yeah, the same, the same, the same. Oh that's interesting, so a little bit of Paris here in the middle of Mexico.

Well, you know that we had a lot of influence from France, they were some of the architects got to study there. They need to go to study there. Then they come here and they do all of their beautiful work, yeah! They bring all the new ways.

-

Christine

here's the best part

So just like those Paris train stations of the late 19th century, this new construction technique was all about the iron and glass. While iron may seem a simple material today, during the Industrial Age iron made sky high buildings possible for the first time. Because it was such an incredible innovation, it was exalted as a work of art, which is why it was often left bare in Paris train stations and in a little something called the Eiffel Tower. And that exultation continued across the Atlantic, here at the Mercado Hidalgo.

It's one of the most beautiful buildings we have here in Guanajuato. There's room for all the stuff so you do more shopping, you have to have room for stuff. You're right, you're right. -

Christine

here's the best part

Mercado Hidalgo is named after Father Miguel Hidalgo, whose name you will also see here, on our final curious landmark here in Guanajuato. And for that, we go up another hill. Well of course there's another hill. Today this important building is a museum, but its history is full of important events and legends that shaped Guanajuato and all of Mexico.

It's very important because here we started independence of Mexico against Spain. -

Christine

here's the best part

This is the Alhondiga de Granaditas, named simply for its original use, a grain storehouse. But it goes down in history because of what happened here in 1810. In 1810, the Mexican revolution against Spain was beginning. In its earliest battle, legendary independence leader Father Miguel Hidalgo storms Guanajuato with his rebels behind him.

So, Spanish troops and the wealthy Spanish families barricaded themselves inside this building. Which brings us to an incredible legend about this awesome giant. This is El Pipila, the town hero, and what the legend says he did sounds like straight out of an action hero movie. First, he straps a large flat stone to his back.

He put the stone on his back, a body stone, a big one, and go with the fire and blows the door so that all the Indians can get in. But you know, the sad part is they killed everybody inside, you know, it was a terrible massacre. So that was the sad part of this, this building. -

Christine

here's the best part

After this battle at the Alhondiga, the rest of the city rebelled too. As you might imagine, this did not go over so well with the Spanish so the history gets even more gruesome. The Spanish were very angry for that, took Hidalgo and his friends and cut their heads. And put them in each corner of the building, you can see there the name so everybody can see.

They don't should do that against the Imperials or the Spanish. -

Christine

here's the best part

Much later, to honor these four rebel heroes, their names were proudly inscribed on those very same four corners. So much sadness, so much bravery, and such a pivotal moment in the history of Mexican independence. But it's really hard to imagine all that violence today as you stroll through this serene and cheery town. (gentle upbeat music) From a colorful city in a valley that was carved out by a river that isn't there anymore, because of shiny silver found in these hills that sort of look like frogs, which gave the city its name, to a spooky and creative solution to graffiti, and another alley just perfect for Romeo and Juliet, to the home of a famous hometown artist who used his talent and a whole lot of color to express his beliefs about the world and about his beloved Mexico, to a grand theater fit for Paris and a Parisian train station to match, and a church dedicated to the lady of the town, and another church dedicated to a wealthy and powerful religious order who, let's be honest, had really great taste, and who valued education so built a temple to learning, complete with a lot of steps leading up to that temple, whose side entrance is decorated with the entrances of churches built just for those silver miners, who were so important to Guanajuato and to New Spain that the king of Spain himself gave them this precious icon.

And finally, on just another hill is a simple storehouse, whose history isn't simple at all, that gave rise to the legend of a larger-than-life town hero whose larger-than-life statue is always protecting his city. So, from silver to Spain to simply saintly, Guanajuato City has so much to be curious about. Thank you for joining us on our educational journey and hopefully now you're even more curious about the who, what, where, why, when, and how of Guanajuato City, as they say here, tesperamos pronto en Guanajuato. (gentle upbeat music)