A Few Great Bakeries

Sebak: BAKERIES CAN BE WONDERFULLY DELICIOUS PLACES.

I LOVE THE SMELL WHEN YOU WALK IN.

Anthony: YEAH, SOMETIMES I NEVER MAKE IT HOME BEFORE I OPEN THE BAG UP, SO, YEAH.

EVERYBODY NEEDS TO HAVE FRESH BREAD.

OH, IT LOOKS FANTASTIC.

HOW DO YOU WALK BY AND NOT COME IN?

GOT TO MEAN YOU GOT TO BE GOOD.

TO MAKE A GOOD BAKERY, YOU CAN'T CUT ANY STEPS.

AND YOU WANT IT NICE AND GOLDEN.

DON'T WANT TO BURN ANYTHING.

George: BAKERIES NEVER CHANGED THAT MUCH.

A LOAF OF BREAD IS A LOAF OF BREAD.

Sebak: THERE SEEM TO BE NO RULES ABOUT WHAT EXACTLY YOU HAVE TO MAKE IN ORDER TO CALL YOURSELF A BAKERY.

Sherrie: I BAKE A LOT, BUT I CAN'T MAKE ANYTHING THAT BEATS THIS PLACE.

IT HELPS TO HAVE AN OVEN OR TWO.

I'LL LEAVE IT IN THERE JUST FOR A MINUTE LONGER.

YOU JUST HAVE TO BAKE SOMETHING GOOD TO EAT.

YOU CAN BUY SOMETHING AT A GROCERY STORE, BUT IT'S NOT GONNA BE THE SAME QUALITY AS YOU CAN GET FROM A BAKERY LIKE THIS.

AND WHEN YOU COME TO A BAKERY SOMETHING LIKE THIS, WHERE IT STILL HAS THE OLD-FASHIONED TOUCH TO IT...

I THINK IT BRINGS HAPPINESS TO PEOPLE.

Stu: ...IT GIVES YOU THAT SENSE OF JUST BEING BACK IN THE DAY, I GUESS YOU COULD SAY.

EVERYBODY LIKES TO CHIT-CHAT.

Jack: WHEN I SEE A BAKERY, I USUALLY STOP IN AND SEE WHAT THEY HAVE.

Sebak: SO, WE'VE TRAVELED ACROSS AMERICA FROM AQUINNAH TO ALASKA.

WE'VE FOUND SOME EXCELLENT SMALL BAKERIES THAT WE WANT TO CELEBRATE.

AND A BAKERY IS A MUST AMONG THE HISPANIC COMMUNITY.

I THINK A BAKERY MAKES A NEIGHBORHOOD.

I THINK IT DRAWS PEOPLE.

IT DRAWS PEOPLE TOGETHER.

Loretta: I THINK IT'S FUN WORKING AND TALKING TO PEOPLE.

I DO EAT WHAT I MAKE.

YEAH.

Ellen: AT THE END OF THE DAY, YOU CAN SEE, "OH, I MADE ALL THIS BREAD, AND IT MAKES PEOPLE HAPPY."

Sebak: IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO SAY THAT THESE ARE THE BEST BAKERIES IN AMERICA.

THERE ARE TOO MANY.

AND WE APOLOGIZE IF WE DIDN'T FIND YOUR FAVORITE.

WE KNOW THERE ARE MANY MORE NEIGHBORHOOD SHOPS MAKING PERFECT PASTRIES AND BEAUTIFUL BREADS.

WE'RE GONNA VISIT JUST A FEW GREAT BAKERIES.

WELL, THEY'RE NOT GREAT IF YOU WANT TO LOSE WEIGHT, BUT THEY'RE A GREAT THING IF YOU LIKE TO EAT.

Sebak: THEY'RE THE KIND OF BUSINESSES THAT PEOPLE END UP LOVING.

I DON'T KNOW IF THEY LOVE ME.

THEY LOVE THIS PLACE.

THAT'S FOR SURE.

Sebak: OKAY, LET'S START IN SYRACUSE, NEW YORK, AT 502 PEARL STREET, WHERE PEOPLE HAVE BEEN MAKING GOOD BREAD FOR A LONG TIME AT COLUMBUS BAKING COMPANY.

Jimmy: BASICALLY, IT'S ONE OF A KIND NOW.

THERE'S NOT TOO MANY MORE.

I DON'T EVEN KNOW IN THE COUNTRY, IN THE STATE, BUT RIGHT NOW, THIS IS HOW WE'VE DONE IT FOR -- SINCE TIME BEGAN.

Sebak: THAT'S JIMMY RETZOS.

HE OWNS AND RUNS THIS PLACE.

HIS SON JIMMY WORKS HERE, TOO.

EVERYONE CALLS HIM "JUNIOR."

Junior: WE'VE BEEN HERE FOREVER.

PEOPLE COME IN AND SAY THEY CAME HERE WHEN THEY WERE -- THEIR GRANDFATHERS TOOK THEM IN HERE 60 YEARS AGO.

AND THEY'RE STILL COMING IN HERE, SO...

I COME HERE AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK, AND I'VE KNOWN THIS PLACE SINCE, GOD, 25 YEARS AGO.

Anthony: IT'S ALWAYS BEEN GREAT BREAD, SO IT'S ALWAYS BEEN A GOOD PLACE TO COME AND GET SOME ITALIAN BREAD.

Heidi: YOU COME IN, YOU CAN OVERLOOK THE WHOLE PLACE.

AND YOU SEE THE OVENS.

YOU CAN SEE THE WOODEN TRAYS WHERE THEY PROOF THE BREAD.

Jimmy: WHEN WE OPENED UP, 1895, IT WAS EVERYTHING WAS IN THIS ONE ROOM.

OUR DAY STARTS AT 3: 00 A.M.

I COME IN AND I CREATE A DOUGH.

IT'S A VERY SIMPLE RECIPE.

IT'S WATER, FLOUR, YEAST, AND SALT.

IT'S VERY BASIC.

AND NO PRESERVATIVES, NO SHORTENING OR EGGS OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT.

THAT'S WHY WITHIN 24 HOURS, THE BREAD GETS STALE.

AND THEN THE OTHER CREW, MY SON AND FELIPE, THEY COME IN AT 5:00.

WE START, AND WE START WORKING IT.

WHAT WE DO, WE DUMP IT IN A DOUGH TROUGH.

AND WE COVER IT UP, AND IT SLEEPS FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND 15 TO AN HOUR AND A HALF.

AND IT'S TO FERMENT THE DOUGH, TO LET IT RAISE, TO CURE, TO GET THAT UNIQUE TASTE THAT WE'RE KNOWN FOR.

THEN WHAT WE DO -- WE TAKE IT OUT AND WE PUT IT ON A BIG DOUGH BENCH.

AND WE'LL CUT IT UP INTO 20 OUNCES, A POUND AND A QUARTER.

WE'LL WEIGH IT UP, AND THEN WE'LL ROLL IT UP.

AND THEN WE PUT IT 20 IN A BOX, AND WE STACK THE BOXES ONE ON TOP OF EACH OTHER, UNTIL THE ENTIRE DOUGH IS CUT.

AND ANYWHERE FROM 140 LOAVES TO 340 LOAVES.

THEN WE'LL WAIT.

LET IT RAISE AGAIN FOR THE SECOND TIME BEFORE WE START TO MOLD IT, SHAPE IT.

Sebak: THEY MAKE FOUR DIFFERENT SHAPES OF BREAD FROM THE SAME BASIC DOUGH.

Jimmy: WE'RE GONNA GIVE THEM A PERSONALITY.

FIRST SHAPE WE'RE DOING RIGHT NOW IS JUST THE HIGH ROUND.

IT'S JUST A ROUND, A DOMED ROUND.

BASICALLY JUST MAT IT DOWN AND... AND IT'S GONNA RAISE AGAIN, SO IT'S A THREE-RAISE DOUGH WE'RE DOING HERE.

THIS IS THE DIFFERENT SHAPE THAT WE'RE DOING RIGHT HERE.

THIS IS THE REGULAR ITALIAN.

AND THE DIFFERENCE IS, IT'S POINTY.

IT'S GOT POINTS ON THE END OF IT.

INSTEAD OF... SEE?

THEY'RE DIFFERENT.

THE REASON WHY -- THESE ARE GONNA BE STUCK TOGETHER.

SO WHEN YOU -- AFTER THEY'RE COOKED, YOU SPLIT THEM APART, AND THEY'RE SOFT ON THE SIDES.

SOFTER CRUST.

Junior: WE MAKE A FLAT LOAF THAT IS VERY SIMILAR TO ROLLS IN ITS OWN WAY.

IT'S OUR VERSION OF ROLLS.

Jimmy: BEFORE IT GOES IN THE OVEN, WE SCORE IT WITH A BOARD, TO MAKE THE INDIVIDUAL...

THERE'S BETWEEN 6 AND 9 NICE PIECES TO IT.

Sebak: AS BELOVED AS THIS ITALIAN BREAD IS, NO ONE WORKING HERE TODAY IS ITALIAN.

MY FAMILY, ANYWAY, HAS BEEN GREEK THE WHOLE TIME.

SO, I MEAN, THERE'S BEEN OTHER PARTNERS THAT HAVE PROBABLY BEEN ITALIAN THAT I DON'T EVEN KNOW ABOUT, BUT...

THERE WERE SEVEN OWNERS, SEVEN PARTNERS, WAY BACK WHEN WE FIRST OPENED UP IN 1895.

AND MY GRANDFATHER CAME FROM GREECE IN 1926 AND GOT A JOB HERE AS A BAKER, AND THEN MY DAD CAME IN 1948 FROM GREECE.

HE ENDED UP BEING SOLE OWNER IN 1974, AND THAT'S WHEN I STARTED.

Junior: WHEN THEY MADE THE OVENS A LONG TIME AGO, THEY FIGURED OUT HOW TO EVEN OUT THE HEAT, SO EVERYTHING PRETTY MUCH COMES OUT AT THE SAME TIME.

Anthony: SOME PEOPLE EAT THE CRUST, PUT THE CRUST ASIDE, THEY EAT THE MIDDLE.

ME, I EAT THE WHOLE THING.

YOU KNOW, THE BREAD IS JUST SPECTACULAR.

IT'S JUST AWESOME.

Junior: NOT MANY PLACES YOU CAN GO IN AND BUY A LOAF OF BREAD FRESH OUT OF THE OVEN LIKE THAT AND JUST EAT IT.

THERE'S NOTHING ABOUT IT I WOULD CHANGE.

Jimmy: I HAVE FUN WITH THE CUSTOMERS.

I HAVE FUN WITH MY CREW.

THEY'RE GREAT PEOPLE TO WORK WITH.

AND WE HAVE FUN, AND, YOU KNOW, IT MAKES THE DAY GO BY THAT MUCH EASIER.

Sebak: AW, THERE MAY BE NO EASY DAY IN ANY BAKERY, AND WHEN YOU BAKE A VARIETY OF GOOD THINGS, IT GETS MORE COMPLICATED.

BUT AN UNUSUAL LOCATION OFF THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS MAY MAKE THINGS MORE INTERESTING.

Juli: WE ARE IN THE HEADLANDS OF MARTHA'S VINEYARD ISLAND, ON THE WESTERNMOST POINT, AND WE NOW CALL IT AQUINNAH.

Sebak: IF YOU'RE DRIVING TOWARDS THE BEAUTIFUL GAY HEAD CLIFFS AND THE OLD GAY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, YOU MAY SPOT THE SIGN FOR THE ORANGE PEEL BAKERY.

IT'S OWNED AND RUN BY JULI VANDERHOOP, WHO HEATS UP THIS WOOD-FIRED OVEN EVERY MORNING.

Juli: I AM BOTH A TOWN RESIDENT AND A WAMPANOAG INDIAN, NATIVE AMERICAN, AND WE HAVE LIVED HERE FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

I WAS BORN HERE AND MY FATHER WAS BORN HERE AND MY FATHER'S FATHER WAS BORN HERE.

Sebak: THERE'S A SMALL SHOP AND KITCHEN SPACE CLOSE BY THE OVEN.

WHILE IT'S HEATING UP, YOU MAY FIND JULI AND HER ASSISTANT, KATIE RUPPERT, GETTING ITEMS READY TO BE BAKED AND PUT ON THE SHELVES.

Katie: IN THE SUMMER, A LOT OF PEOPLE COME HERE AFTER THE BEACH, AND THEY'RE ON VACATION, AND THAT'S GREAT.

AND THEN, AS THE SEASONS CHANGE, IT'S FALL AND WINTER, IT BECOMES KIND OF THIS HUB OF WHERE THE TALK OF THE TOWN HAPPENS.

HEY, JULI.

Juli: GOOD MORNING!

DO YOU HAVE ANY ROUND CHALLAHS?

OH, YES!

YAY, I COULD COUNT ON YOU, MARSHA!

[ BOTH LAUGH ] YOU MAKE MY DAY!

Juli: I LIVE HERE, AND I CONVERTED MY GARAGE INTO MY COMMERCIAL KITCHEN.

SO WHAT DO YOU WANT DO WHEN YOU GREET PEOPLE INTO YOUR HOME?

YOU WANT IT TO BE WARM, AND YOU WANT THEM TO FIND SOMETHING THAT MAKES THEM VERY HAPPY, VERY COMFORTABLE.

AND THAT'S WHAT WE TRY TO DO.

I'VE GOT ONE WITH POPPY AND THE REST REGULAR GUYS.

IS THIS GOOD?

I HAVEN'T EVEN HAD A CHANCE TO BAG THEM YET.

THAT'S GREAT.

WILL IT FIT?

Sebak: WHEN THE OVEN IS HOT ENOUGH, JULI CLEANS OUT THE COALS AND ASHES, AND BISCUITS AND BREADS START GOING IN.

Juli: I LOVE MY OVEN FOR SO MANY REASONS.

IT'S MADE OF WHAT THEY CALL "TERRE BLANCHE" IN FRENCH, WHICH TRANSLATES TO "WHITE EARTH."

AND IT IS THE MOST THERMODYNAMIC CLAY IN THE WORLD, WHICH MEANS THAT IT HOLDS TEMPERATURES AT A GREAT RATE.

Sebak: THE CLAY OVEN IS A DOME INSIDE THE STRUCTURE.

Juli: ON THE OUTSIDE, I COULD HAVE MADE IT ANY MATERIAL.

I CHOSE THE FIELDSTONES BECAUSE IT RESEMBLES THE PLACE THAT WE ARE.

I LOVE THE BREAD SHE PRODUCES AND THE SWEETS, AND I THINK IT'S A GREAT THING.

AND I THINK SHE'S BECOME SO WELL-KNOWN, NOT ONLY IN TOWN, BUT ON THE ISLAND.

Juli: WE ARE OPEN 24/7.

THE DOOR'S NEVER LOCKED.

AND WE ARE AN HONOR-SYSTEM STAND.

AND I'VE SEEN PEOPLE IN HURRICANES AND WINTER STORMS COME UP TO MY DOOR WITH FLASHLIGHTS TO FIND SOMETHING.

I NAMED IT ORANGE PEEL BECAUSE MOST PEOPLE DON'T KNOW THAT THE TOOL THAT YOU USE TO PUT YOUR BREAD IN, THE BIG PADDLE, SPATULA, IS CALLED A "PEEL."

AND SO, THAT'S THE PEEL.

EVERYBODY COMES IN AND THEY GO, "WELL, DO YOU PUT ORANGE PEEL IN EVERYTHING?"

NO, WE DON'T.

BUT FOR SOME REASON, YOU KNOW, ORANGE BEING THE COLOR OF FIRE, I JUST SAID, "OKAY, THAT'S GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME."

TONIGHT IS OUR PIZZA NIGHT, GUYS, IF YOU'RE AROUND AND NOT OUT AT THE OUTERMOST.

OH, REALLY?

WE DO A PIZZA NIGHT TONIGHT.

Sebak: PIZZA NIGHT IS A TRADITION HERE, USUALLY WEDNESDAY EVENINGS STARTING AT 5:00.

A HOT FIRE IS BUILT IN THE OVEN, AND PEOPLE GATHER.

Juli: AND, YOU KNOW, WE ALWAYS SAY, "BRING A TOPPING OR BRING SOMETHING TO SHARE."

IT'S MORE ABOUT THAT THAN, YOU KNOW -- AND IF YOU FORGET A TOPPING, THEN SHARE YOUR SMILE.

Katie: WHAT WE DO, WE SPIN THE DOUGH AND THEN PUT THE SAUCE ON AND PUT THE CHEESE ON.

AND THEN WE HAND IT TO THE PERSON TO DECORATE IT.

I RECALL READING SOMETHING WHEN JULI FIRST OPENED THIS BAKERY AND STARTED THESE PIZZA NIGHTS ABOUT WANTING TO KIND OF BRING THE COMMUNITY TOGETHER, AND IT SEEMS TO HAVE WORKED VERY WELL.

Juli: AND WHEN YOU HAVE AN OVEN AS BIG AS OURS, YOU OPEN IT UP TO THE COMMUNITY TO FEED THEM, AND THAT'S A TRADITIONAL THING, I THINK, WORLDWIDE.

Sebak: PIZZA NIGHT OR WEEKDAY MORNING, THIS PLACE WORKS.

Juli: THANK YOU!

WE FIND A LOT OF ENTERTAINMENT IN THE PEOPLE THAT COME HERE AND WANT TO ENJOY WHAT WE HAVE TO OFFER, SO IT'S REALLY NICE.

Sebak: OF COURSE, ENJOYING WHAT BAKERIES OFFER MAY BE THE BIG MOTIVATOR FOR CUSTOMERS, EVEN IN THE VERY EARLY MORNING.

Dan: WE OPEN AT 4:00, AND SO MOST OF THE DOUGHNUTS ARE ALL FRIED AND DONE BY 4:00, 4:30 IN THE MORNING.

Sebak: SO THESE BAKERS HAVE BEEN HERE FOR HOURS ALREADY AT SLUYS POULSBO BAKERY, ROLLING AND PREPPING LONG, DOUGHY TUBES THAT WILL BECOME CINNAMON ROLLS.

THEY'RE CUTTING DOUGHNUTS.

THEY'RE LOADING TRAYS WITH A VARIETY OF GOODIES.

DAN SLUYS RUNS THIS PLACE.

WE'RE IN WASHINGTON STATE, AND WE ARE WEST OF SEATTLE.

IF YOU GO ACROSS THE WATER ON A FERRY, WE'RE ABOUT 30 MINUTES ACROSS THE WATER AND ANOTHER 15-, 20-MINUTE DRIVE.

OR YOU CAN DRIVE THE LONG WAY, AND THAT'S ABOUT AN HOUR DRIVE.

Sebak: THE TOWN IS CALLED POULSBO, AND IT'S SOMETIMES CALLED LITTLE NORWAY BECAUSE OF ALL THE NORWEGIANS WHO SETTLED HERE.

PEOPLE COME TO POULSBO TO GO TO SLUYS.

SPECIFICALLY TO THE BAKERY.

Sherrie: I THINK IT'S THE BEST PART OF POULSBO.

I THINK SLUYS' BAKERY IS POULSBO, BASICALLY.

THE BAKERY ITSELF HAS BEEN HERE SINCE ABOUT 1907, IN THAT AREA.

AND ORIGINALLY IT WAS CALLED THE STAR BAKERY.

Sebak: DAN'S FATHER, MARION SLUYS, STARTED SLUYS' BAKERY HERE IN 1966.

Marion: PEOPLE WILL WALK IN THE DOOR, AND THEY SAY, "WOW.

I HAVEN'T SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS SINCE I WAS A KID."

WE JUST DO EVERYTHING.

FOUR THINGS THAT ARE VERY IMPORTANT, AND I LEARNED THOSE A LONG TIME AGO.

IT'S GOT TO LOOK GOOD.

IT'S GOT TO TASTE GOOD.

IT'S GOT TO BE SERVED BY PEOPLE THAT REALLY LIKE PEOPLE.

WHAT CAN I GET FOR YOU?

AND THEN IT HAS TO BE PRICED FAIR.

NOT HIGH, NOT LOW, BUT FAIR.

AND, YOU KNOW, YOU HEAR THIS SAYING, "LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION."

THAT'S IN THERE SOMEWHERE, BUT IT'S PROBABLY NUMBER 5.

Sebak: MARION'S WIFE, LORETTA, WAS ALSO A GUIDING FORCE, ESPECIALLY IN THE FRONT OF THE STORE.

Loretta: YOU WANT YOUR SHELVES, EVERYTHING TO BE FULL AND INVITING FOR PEOPLE.

WHEN YOU WATCH PEOPLE COMING IN, I HAVE THREATENED TO JUST TO HAND THEM A BIG BAG AND GET ONE OF EACH.

BECAUSE IT'S HARD TO DECIDE.

Catherine: THESE ARE FOR MY HUSBAND.

THESE ARE HIS FAVORITE, THE GINGERBREAD GUYS.

THIS ONE.

THIS ONE.

Sebak: THIS BAKERY IS RENOWNED FOR A WHOLE GRAIN BREAD CALLED POULSBO BREAD THAT WAS DECADES AHEAD OF ITS TIME.

THEY STILL MAKE IT HERE.

Dan: DROPS INTO ROLLERS HERE.

COMES OUT HERE.

STARTS ROLLING UP ON THE SCREEN.

COMES OUT HERE.

GOES UNDERNEATH WHERE YOU CAN'T SEE IT, AND IT COMES OUT A LITTLE LOAF OF BREAD.

Sebak: THEN THERE'S THE FINAL RISE, OR PROOF, THEN BAKING.

AND WHEN IT'S DONE, DAN CAN SHOW YOU THE TECHNIQUE FOR GETTING FINISHED POULSBO BREAD OUT OF THE PANS.

[ BANGS PAN ] THERE'S AN ART OF LIFTING IT UP AND PULLING THE PAN OUT FROM UNDER IT.

AND IT'S ALWAYS FUN WHEN YOU HAVE SOMEBODY NEW TRYING IT, 'CAUSE THEY BASH IT.

THEY THROW THE BREAD OUT OF THE PAN, UP IN THE AIR NORMALLY.

[ BANGS PAN ] THE SINFUL THING THAT I LOVE COMING HERE FOR IS THESE VIKING CUPS.

THESE ONES HERE, THESE WE CALL OUR SMALL VIKING.

WHAT THEY'LL DO IS THEY'LL DIP THEM IN GLAZE.

WE HAVE A CUSTARD GLAZE THAT WE PUT ON THEM.

AND THEN THEY PUT CREAM CHEESE IN THE MIDDLE.

IT IS CREAM CHEESE ICING, SPECIAL WE MAKE HERE.

WE PUT THAT BY HAND ON TOP OF THESE.

Vaughn: MY FAVORITE THING TO DO IS I LIKE TO JUST, YOU KNOW, KIND OF TEAR OFF A LITTLE LAYER AND LAYER AND LAYER.

YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO EAT THE TWO TOGETHER, BUT I WATCH A LOT OF PEOPLE, AND THEY LICK THE CENTER OUT AND THEN EAT THE CUP.

OR SOMETIMES I JUST LIKE TO EAT RIGHT INTO IT.

IT'S GOOEY, TOO.

[ LAUGHS ] MY FAVORITE THING IS GOING FOR THE CENTER.

HARD TO EAT IT IN THE CAR, SO YOU HAVE TO EAT IT BEFORE YOU GET TO THE CAR.

[ LAUGHS ] IT'S RIGHT AT THE END OF THE ROLL.

AND YOU CAN KIND OF LIKE... Marion: I TELL YOU, YOU NEED TO HAVE A WASHCLOTH AND A NAPKIN WHEN YOU EAT THIS, 'CAUSE IT'LL SQUISH ALL OVER YOUR FACE.

I LOVE THESE THINGS.

YOU CAN'T GO TO POULSBO WITHOUT STOPPING FOR DOUGHNUTS.

AND EVERY TIME, IT'S SOMETHING DIFFERENT.

GOOD.

WE'RE A BIG PART OF THIS TOWN.

THE TOWN IS A BIG PART OF US.

SO THE TWO ARE SYNONYMOUS TO EACH OTHER.

Loretta: IT'S FUN, WORKING AND TALKING TO PEOPLE AND SELLING THEM A GOOD PRODUCT THAT THEY'RE GOING TO ENJOY AND THEY'RE GONNA COME BACK FOR MORE.

Dan: I MEAN, I LIKE COMING IN EARLY.

I LIKE CREATING THINGS.

I LIKE HEARING, YOU KNOW, A CUSTOMER GO, "OH, MY GOD, THAT'S SO GOOD."

I MEAN, THOSE TYPE OF THINGS GIVES YOU A GOOD FEELING.

Marion: IF YOU DO THOSE THINGS, MY BELIEF IS THAT PEOPLE WILL COME TO YOU.

IF YOU TREAT THEM RIGHT AND SERVE THEM GOOD FOOD, THEY'LL COME BACK.

Sebak: YEAH.

GOOD BAKED GOODS AND REPEAT CUSTOMERS ARE CRUCIAL TO ANY BAKERY'S SUCCESS, EVEN WHEN THE BAKERY DOESN'T STAND STILL.

IN DURHAM, NORTH CAROLINA, IN A MODEST HOUSE IN A NICE NEIGHBORHOOD, AN ENTERPRISING YOUNG WOMAN NAMED RHONDA JONES RUNS PART OF HER BAKERY OUT OF HER HOME.

Rhonda: HAD MY KITCHEN INSPECTED BY THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE FOR NORTH CAROLINA AND THEN STARTED BUILDING THE BUSINESS FROM THERE.

SO THE FIRST, SAY, 5 OR 6 YEARS, I DID IT FOR THANKSGIVING AND CHRISTMAS ONLY.

AND THEN SINCE MARCH OF 2013, I LAUNCHED A DESSERT TRUCK.

AND SO NOW I'M ABLE TO GO OUT TO, YOU KNOW, FESTIVALS, FOOD TRUCK RODEOS.

I ACTUALLY SET UP AT A PLACE CALLED FULLSTEAM BREWERY, WHICH IS DOWNTOWN DURHAM.

I'M THERE TWICE A MONTH.

AND THEN ACTUALLY TODAY, I'M OUT AT COCOA CINNAMON, WHICH IS A LOCAL COFFEEHOUSE, AND THEY ALSO SELL MY CAKE BY THE SLICE.

OKAY.

SO THIS IS -- THE FIRST PEOPLE THAT ORDERED HERE, HERE'S YOUR CAKE.

YAY!

THANKS.

Sebak: BUT BEFORE SHE GETS TO GO OUT ON THE TRUCK, RHONDA BAKES HERE AT HOME.

Rhonda: AFTER COMING BACK FROM A CRUISE TO THE GRAND CAYMAN AND COZUMEL, I BROUGHT BACK WHAT I CONSIDERED TO BE A LITTLE TOO MUCH RUM.

I ACTUALLY STARTED MAKING RUM CAKES.

SEVEN DIFFERENT FLAVORS OF THE RUM CAKE IS WHAT I ACTUALLY DO, BUT THE BROWN SUGAR VANILLA RUM CAKE IS MY SIGNATURE FLAVOR AND THE MOST REQUESTED.

Marjorie: IT'S A YELLOW CAKE.

MMM.

IT'S GOOD.

[ CHUCKLES ] I WOULD SAY A HINT OF THE RUM.

THE RUM IS NOT OVERPOWERING, BUT YOU DO KNOW IT'S THERE.

Woman: I HAD THIS CAKE BEFORE, BUT THIS IS THE SIGNATURE, AND I KNOW OF THEIR OTHER FLAVORS, BUT I'VE ONLY HAD THIS ONE.

THIS IS MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE.

Rhonda: YOU KNOW, NORMALLY, A BATCH FOR ME, I MAKE ABOUT SIX CAKES AT A TIME.

AND I PUT OUT SIX INDIVIDUAL BOWLS, AND I HAND-MIX THEM JUST WITH AN ELECTRIC HAND MIXER.

Sebak: RHONDA CALLS HER BUSINESS CHEZ MOI BAKERY.

Rhonda: I'VE ALWAYS HAD A LOVE FOR FRENCH GROWING UP OVER THE YEARS.

THE NAME CHEZ MOI, IT MEANS "MY PLACE," SOME PEOPLE SAY "MY HOME."

IT SEEMED APPROPRIATE BEING THAT I DO BAKE OUT OF MY HOME.

HERE'S YOUR SLICE, AS WELL.

THANK YOU.

ENJOY.

THANKS.

YOU'RE WELCOME.

Rhonda: OF COURSE, IT'S ALWAYS BEEN JUST WORD OF MOUTH.

AND NOW, OF COURSE, SOCIAL MEDIA IS REALLY BOOMING, SO IT'S EXPANDING BY LEAPS AND BOUNDS.

AND I KNEW I HAD THE PASSION FOR BAKING, BUT I FELT THAT DISCONNECT, YOU KNOW, BEING IN THE KITCHEN BY MYSELF ALL THE TIME AND JUST KIND OF HANDING THE CAKES OFF, NEVER REALLY HAVING A CHANCE TO TALK TO MY CUSTOMERS AND MAKE THAT CONNECTION.

WELL, HELLO!

HOW ARE YOU?

Woman: I HAVE SEEN HER AT FULLSTEAM BREWERY.

I'VE SEEN HER AT FOOD TRUCK RODEOS.

I HAVE FOLLOWED HER ON FACEBOOK.

Marjorie: SHE HAS A FOLLOWING.

MY DAD IN HIS LATER YEARS WOULD CALL HER "THE CAKE LADY."

"TELL THE CAKE LADY TO BRING A CAKE OVER."

[ LAUGHS ] Rhonda: THAT'S WHERE THE TRUCK CAME IN.

AND SINCE FOOD TRUCKS WERE REALLY BECOMING A BIG THING IN DURHAM FAST, DECIDED THAT WOULD BE THE EASIEST WAY TO MAKE THAT CONNECTION WITH MY CUSTOMERS.

AND FOUND A LITTLE TRUCK ON CRAIGSLIST, HAD A WRAP PUT ON IT, AND THE REST IS HISTORY.

-HI.

-HI.

HOW ARE YOU?

I'M DOING GREAT.

THANKS.

WHAT DO YOU HAVE TODAY?

TODAY WE HAVE BROWN SUGAR VANILLA RUM CAKE.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRY SOME?

SOUNDS GOOD.

YEAH.

OKAY, SOUNDS GOOD.

Rhonda: SO, I DON'T KNOW IF YOU NOTICED, BUT ON THE BROWN SUGAR VANILLA RUM CAKE, THERE'S BROWN SUGAR ON THE BOTTOM OF IT.

AND ALONG WITH THE SOAK, IT MAKES NICE LITTLE CRUNCH ON THE BOTTOM.

June: IT'S SWEET, BUT NOT TOO SWEET.

IT'S GOT A LITTLE CRUNCH FROM IT, FROM THE BROWN SUGAR.

AND I'M REALLY SURPRISED AT HOW MOIST IT IS.

Rhonda: IN THE SOAK, THERE'S WATER, SUGAR, BUTTER, AND THEN AFTER ALL OF THAT MELTS DOWN, THEN I ALSO ADD ADDITIONAL RUM.

SO YOU HAVE PLENTY OF RUM IN IT.

Woman: IT'S LIKE YOU TASTE THE RUM AFTER THE FACT.

I THINK IT'S JUST ENOUGH TO GIVE IT FLAVOR.

SO, YOU KNOW, OF COURSE, THEY CALL IT A SOAK 'CAUSE YOU'RE SOAKING THE CAKE.

THAT'S A LOT OF LIQUID.

IT'S 2 CUPS OF LIQUID THAT GO INTO EACH CAKE.

Woman: AND EVERYBODY THINKS THE RUM CAKE THAT THEY'VE HAD IN THE PAST IS DELICIOUS UNTIL THEY HAVE THIS.

Drew: I THINK BAKERIES ARE... EVERY LOCAL SHOP'S PRETTY IMPORTANT TO THE VIBE OF A CITY.

Woman: I THINK IT WORKS BECAUSE SHE IS ABLE TO CONNECT WITH PEOPLE.

Marjorie: WELL, IT'S HER.

IT'S RHONDA.

MM-HMM.

YEAH.

IT'S MORE THAN THIS.

I LOVE IT.

I MEAN, WE'RE GETTING A LOT OF FOOD TRUCKS IN THE AREA, AND FOR ANYONE TO HAVE THEIR OWN BUSINESS, I THINK THAT WE HERE, WE REALLY SUPPORT THOSE BUSINESSES, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S REALLY GOOD FOOD.

Rhonda: I STILL ENJOY IT.

YOU KNOW, OF COURSE I WOULD LOVE EVERY SINGLE DAY TO SELL OUT, AND EVERY SINGLE DAY TO SELL TONS OF CAKE.

IT DOESN'T ALWAYS HAPPEN.

BUT, YEAH, EVEN THOSE BAD DAYS, I'M STILL PRETTY HAPPY JUST BEING ON THE TRUCK.

Sebak: OKAY, MAKING YOUR DREAM BAKERY INTO A REAL BUSINESS MAY LEAD TO HAPPINESS.

AND IN PORTLAND, MAINE, THERE MAY BE MORE EVIDENCE OF THAT EVEN IN THE EARLY MORNING HOURS AT THE STANDARD BAKING COMPANY.

IT'S IN THE BOTTOM OF AN UNUSUAL BUILDING AT THE BACK OF A BIG PARKING LOT OFF COMMERCIAL STREET.

Matt: IT IS A VERY UNUSUAL BUILDING.

LITTLE TWO-STORY WAREHOUSE THAT IS SORT OF THE LAST OF ITS KIND AMIDST ALL THE HOTELS AND OFFICES.

Sebak: MATT JAMES IS ONE OF THE OWNERS AND FOUNDERS OF THE STANDARD BAKING COMPANY.

Matt: WHEN WE DESIGNED THE SPACE, WE WANTED PEOPLE TO BE ABLE TO LOOK IN AND SEE THE PRODUCTION.

AND WE ALWAYS THOUGHT IT WAS REALLY GOOD FOR THE PRODUCTION PEOPLE JUST TO BE ABLE TO SEE THE LIGHT OF DAY AND SEE THAT THERE WERE PEOPLE COMING IN AND APPRECIATING THEIR WORK.

Catherine: IT'S MANUAL LABOR, BUT, I MEAN, IT'S FUN.

YOU'RE WORKING WITH THINGS.

YOU'RE CREATING WITH THINGS.

YOU GET TO SEE PEOPLE COME IN AND SMILE.

IT'S A FEEL-GOOD JOB, YOU KNOW?

Sebak: THIS MORNING, CATHERINE ELIOT IS IN CHARGE OF THE BAKING.

SHE LOADS MANY SHAPES OF BREAD INTO THE MIGHTY THREE-DECK OVEN.

THE MACHINE THAT HELPS IS CALLED SIMPLY THE "LOADER."

Catherine: OBVIOUSLY BETTER THAN DOING IT BY HAND.

THERE'S NO WAY YOU WOULD EVER BE ABLE TO DO IT BY HAND.

I MEAN, THE OVEN DECK IS SO DEEP.

SO WE LOAD 15 BAGUETTES AT A TIME.

Sebak: THE OVEN ROOM IS ONE OF THE BUSIEST PLACES IN THE BAKERY.

Matt: IT OPERATES FROM ABOUT 3:00 A.M. UNTIL ABOUT 9:30 AT NIGHT.

RETAIL STAFF, THEY ARRIVE ABOUT 6:00 A.M.

THEY'LL START BRINGING BASKETS FULL OF BREAD, AND THEY WILL START STOCKING ALL OF THE NATURAL LEAVENED BREADS THAT WERE BAKED THE NIGHT BEFORE.

Sebak: VICTORIA PERRY WORKS AT THE FRONT COUNTER.

Victoria: I LOVE COMING IN IN THE MORNING, BECAUSE THIS WHOLE AREA IS CLEAR.

AND EVERYTHING IS FRESH AND IT'S WARM AND WE'RE JUST MAKING A BEAUTIFUL PRESENTATION FOR EVERYBODY, SO THAT IS MY FAVORITE SHIFT.

THE MORNING BUNS ARE DEFINITELY THE MOST POPULAR, AS FAR AS BREAKFAST PASTRIES GO, ALTHOUGH THE CROISSANTS AND THE ALMOND CROISSANTS ARE REALLY REALLY POPULAR, AS WELL.

Matt: WE OPEN AT 7:00 SHARP EVERY DAY.

GOOD MORNING.

COME ON IN.

THERE IS USUALLY A LINE.

I WOULD LIKE FOUR BLUEBERRY SCONES.

FOUR BLUEBERRY SCONES?

SURE.

Sebak: THE OTHER OWNER AND FOUNDER OF STANDARD BAKING COMPANY IS MATT'S WIFE, ALISON PRAY.

Alison: I THINK BREAKFAST, THE MORNING PERIOD, IS A POPULAR TIME FOR PEOPLE TO COME TO THE BAKERY, AND SO THAT'S -- YOU KNOW, IF THEY'RE PICKING UP A LOAF OF BREAD, OF COURSE THEY'RE GONNA PICK UP A PASTRY AND GET A CUP OF COFFEE.

Brendan: AND I KNOW THAT THEY HAVE KILLER BAGUETTES, WHICH IS WHAT HE JUST PICKED UP.

SO WE JUST COME HERE EVERY NOW AND THEN TO PICK UP SOME GRUB, LITTLE FOOD, LITTLE SNACK WHILE WE WALK AROUND THE OLD PORT.

IT'S PERFECT.

WE HAVE THREE KIDS, SO BETWEEN ALL OF US, WE COVER BOTH BREAD AND SWEET.

BUT WE TEND TO GO WITH MORE OF THE SWEET THINGS WHEN WE'RE GOING TO THE BAKERY.

IT'S THE HEART OF PORTLAND.

IT'S A PLACE THAT LOCALS AND VISITORS JUST THRIVE ON.

SO, THIS WHERE WE MAKE ALL OF OUR PASTRIES.

WE HAVE A PASTRY CREW OF ABOUT FIVE PEOPLE.

AND THEY START AT 3: 00 IN THE MORNING, SHAPING PASTRIES AND BAKING THEM OFF.

HERE WE HAVE SOME CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE DOUGH THAT IS BEING SCOOPED, AND SHORTLY IT WILL GO IN THE OVEN.

SO, THIS IS A SMALL ROOM TO PRODUCE ALL OF THE PASTRY THAT WE MAKE, BUT WE DO OUR BEST.

THIS IS OUR MAKE-UP AREA.

THIS IS WHERE OUR BREAD-SHAPING HAPPENS.

WINSTON IS SHAPING PAIN DE MIE.

IT'S A WHITE FINE-CRUMBED SANDWICH BREAD.

HE IS MASTERFUL AT SHAPING THESE LOAVES.

HE ALSO IS A BREAD MIXER, SO HE MIXES MANY OF THESE DOUGHS.

SO ALL DAY LONG, WE HAVE BREAD DOUGH COMING INTO THIS ROOM AND BEING SHAPED AND DIVIDED ON THESE TABLES.

SO NOW WE'LL HEAD OVER TO THE MIXING AREA, AND JEFF IS MIXING OUR BREAD DOUGHS THAT WILL BE SHAPED LATER TODAY AND BAKED TOMORROW.

THESE WILL BE FOR SALE TOMORROW.

IS THIS THE PAIN AU LEVAIN?

-YEP.

-OKAY.

Ellen: "PAIN," YOU KNOW, IS FRENCH FOR BREAD.

AND "LEVAIN" IS THE FRENCH FOR THE LEAVENING.

IT'S A NATURALLY YEASTED BREAD, AND WE MAKE THE LEVAIN, OR THE STARTER, FROM A LIQUID WHITE STARTER.

Sebak: ELLEN LYFORD HAS WORKED HERE FOR 11 YEARS.

AND WHEN THE BREAD IS MADE, IT'S ALL READY TO USE, IT'S FULL OF NATURAL YEAST AND THAT'S WHAT WE USE TO MAKE THE PAIN AU LEVAIN -- THE LEVAIN STARTER.

WE WERE INSPIRED BY BAKERIES IN FRANCE -- VILLAGE BAKERIES, NEIGHBORHOOD BAKERIES IN PARIS.

Matt: WE THOUGHT THIS WOULD BE THIS KIND OF A BAKERY WHERE THEY WERE DOING A TRADITIONAL FRENCH BAGUETTE, FOCACCIAS, CROISSANTS, MORNING BUNS.

THERE SORTS OF THINGS, ANYBODY WOULD LIKE THESE THINGS.

SO WE DECIDED TO GIVE IT A SHOT.

Alison: WELL, WE'VE BEEN DOING IT FOR 20 YEARS.

20 YEARS FROM NOW, I CAN IMAGINE STILL DOING THE SAME THING.

I MIGHT NOT BE AS FAST.

Ellen: IT'S STILL FUN TO DO.

Sebak: ALL THE HARD WORK MAY HAVE AN ELEMENT OF FUN.

EVEN FOR A LONG TIME.

THIS IS THE MINERVA BAKERY IN McKEESPORT, PENNSYLVANIA, NEAR PITTSBURGH.

BEFORE THE DOORS OPEN AT 7: 00, THERE'S WORK GOING ON IN THE BAKING DEPARTMENT, WHERE MARK MONEZIS, WHOSE FAMILY OWNS THIS PLACE, IS ALREADY ROLLING.

Mark: WE GET IN USUALLY AT 4:00 IN THE MORNING, NORMALLY.

RIGHT NOW, WE'RE MAKING DINNER ROLLS.

DINNER ROLLS IS THE BIG DEAL FOR THE THANKSGIVING HOLIDAY.

Sebak: IN A ROOM NOT FAR FROM HERE, MARK'S SISTER, KATHI HARVEY, IS DECORATING CAKES.

Kathi: EVERYBODY HAS THEIR OWN STYLE.

MY MOM WAS A VERY GOOD DECORATOR, AND MY FATHER... Sebak: KATHI AND MARK'S PARENTS STILL LIVE UPSTAIRS HERE, AND THEY KNOW THIS BUSINESS AND ITS HISTORY.

IRENE MONEZIS IS THEIR MOTHER.

WELL, WE'VE BEEN IN BUSINESS A LONG TIME.

Sebak: GEORGE MONEZIS IS THEIR FATHER.

MY DAD STARTED THE BAKERY IN 1923, BUT NOT IN THIS LOCATION.

Mark: IT STARTED OUT ON WHAT'S CALLED WALNUT STREET.

THEN IN 1940, HE CAME HERE.

AND WE'VE BEEN HERE EVER SINCE.

Kathi: THANK GOD WE SURVIVED.

George: AND FOR SOME REASON OR ANOTHER, HE LIKED THE NAME MINERVA.

MAYBE BECAUSE HE THOUGHT IT RHYMED WITH MONEZIS.

I DON'T KNOW.

Mark: I ALWAYS LIKE TO KID EVERYBODY, YOU KNOW, THEY SAID, "WELL, YOUR NAME IS MONEZIS.

WHERE'D THE NAME MINERVA COME FROM?"

AND I ALWAYS LIKE TO TELL PEOPLE, WELL, THAT MINERVA IS THE GREEK GODDESS OF DOUGHNUTS.

[ CHUCKLES ] AND A LOT OF PEOPLE SAY, "OH, REALLY?"

EVERYBODY KNOWS MINERVA BAKERY.

YEAH, THEY COME IN.

IT'S A SMALL FAMILY-OWNED BAKERY.

EVEN THOUGH IT MAY LOOK LIKE WE PRODUCE A LOT OF STUFF -- AND WE DO -- BUT IT'S ALL HANDMADE.

THERE'S NOTHING AUTOMATED ABOUT THE BAKERY.

Matthew: AND I'VE COME HERE -- MY GRANDPARENTS USED TO BRING ME HERE WHEN I WAS LITTLE.

I HAVE BEEN COMING HERE ALL MY LIFE.

Stu: WHEN I WAS YOUNGER, MY MOTHER USED TO STOP HERE EVERY DAY ON HER WAY HOME FROM WORK.

MY MOM USED TO SEND ME DOWN THOSE STEPS HERE TO COME DOWN HERE AND GET A PIE, AND IT BETTER BE WARM WHEN YOU GET IT HOME.

I STOP HERE USUALLY ON SATURDAY MORNINGS AND GET MAPLE ROLLS, MAPLE COFFEE-CAKE ROLLS.

I'M NUMBER 15.

I'M GONNA GET MY CUPCAKES, AND I'M ON THE ROAD.

Sebak: AND IT'S NOT JUST CUSTOMERS WHO ARE LOYAL HERE.

EMPLOYEES TOO -- SOME FAMILY, SOME NOT -- TEND TO STICK AROUND.

LONG TIME, OFF AND ON.

ABOUT 40 YEARS MAYBE, HUH?

I'VE BEEN WORKING AT THE BAKERY HERE FOR ABOUT 30 YEARS.

27 YEARS.

40 YEARS.

[ LAUGHS ] MY GRANDMA AND GRANDFATHER LIVED ON THE SECOND FLOOR, AND MY MOM AND MY DAD AND MY BROTHER AND I LIVED ON THE THIRD FLOOR.

SO I'D WORK DOWN HERE FOR AN HOUR AND A HALF OR SO, GO UPSTAIRS WHERE WE LIVED, GET CHANGED, THEN GO TO SCHOOL RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET HERE.

Sebak: THAT VINTAGE CONTRAPTION CUTS A ROUND PAN FULL OF DOUGH INTO EQUAL PIECES.

Mark: WELL, THIS MACHINE JUST CUTS THEM INTO THREE DOZEN.

MAKES IT EASIER.

Sebak: EACH OF THE THREE DOZEN PIECES WILL BECOME A DINNER ROLL.

THESE ARE OUR DINNER ROLLS, TWO OF THE STYLES THAT WE MAKE.

THIS IS CALLED A DOUBLE-KNOT, AND THIS IS CALLED A BRAIDED.

YES, YOU CAN BRAID WITH ONE STRAND OR ONE PIECE OF DOUGH.

AND THERE YOU HAVE A BRAIDED DINNER ROLL.

I LIKE THEIR LADY LOCKS HERE AND THEIR THUMBPRINTS.

THOSE ARE THE BEST.

Irene: WE SELL A LOT OF LADY LOCKS, BECAUSE THEY'RE GOOD.

[ LAUGHS ] LITTLE PIECE OF PLASTIC.

IF I DIDN'T DO IT THIS WAY, I'D HAVE TO USE MY HAND.

THIS SAVES A LOT OF TIME.

NICE AND FULL.

THEY MADE MY WEDDING CAKE.

THEY MADE MY DIVORCE CAKE.

Leslie: OH, THEIR CAKES.

OH, MY GOODNESS.

OH, MELT IN YOUR MOUTH, NOT IN YOUR HANDS!

Jacki: AND PROBABLY IN A COUPLE HOURS, I'LL STRAIGHTEN IT AND ICE IT.

THEN THE DECORATOR WILL DECORATE IT.

Man: MY WIFE'S BEEN COMING HERE FOR A LONG TIME.

SHE'S FROM McKEESPORT, BUT SHE ALWAYS TEASES AROUND NOW THAT SHE GOT BOTH HER WEDDING CAKES HERE.

[ LAUGHS ] I'M NUMBER 2.

SO NOW I'M JUST GONNA PUT IT IN THE COOLER FOR A LITTLE WHILE.

Mark: AND EVENTUALLY WE'LL MAKE SOME PASKAS.

Sebak: PASKA, A TRADITIONAL EASTERN EUROPEAN EASTER BREAD, IS ONE THEIR SPECIALTIES.

Patty: PASKA WAS JUST AT EASTERTIME, BUT NOW IT'S FOR EVERY HOLIDAY.

THEY DO IT FOR THANKSGIVING, CHRISTMAS, NEW YEAR'S, BUT REALLY THE CUSTOMERS WANT PASKAS EVERY DAY.

Krissy: I THINK THIS MIGHT BE ONE OF THE LAST BAKERIES YOU CAN GET BOXES TIED WITH STRING.

Stu: YOU CAN GO TO SOME OF THESE OTHER LITTLE DOUGHNUT SHOPS AND EVERYTHING, AND THEY DON'T HAVE THE QUALITY THAT THEY USE HERE AT MINERVA'S.

QUALITY.

QUALITY.

QUALITY MAKES EVERYTHING.

Gary: CUSTOMER AFTER CUSTOMER SAYS THE SAME THING.

AND THEY EXPECT A GOOD QUALITY, AND THEY'RE STILL WILLING TO PAY THE PRICE.

Stu: PLUS THE PEOPLE HERE AT MINERVA'S, YOU GET TO KNOW THEM AND THEN YOU JUST ALWAYS WANT TO KEEP COMING BACK TO THEM.

YOU, TOO.

I THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

HAPPY HOLIDAY.

SEE YOU LATER.

-BYE, MIKE.

-BYE-BYE.

SEE YOU, PATTY.

HAVE A GOOD HOLIDAY.

BYE-BYE.

Sebak: IT'S GOOD TO HAVE A PLACE TO GO AND GET THE BAKED GOODS THAT YOU'VE KNOWN AND LOVED YOUR WHOLE LIFE.

AND IF YOU'RE NOT NEAR HOME, YOU'RE LUCKY TO FIND A PLACE THAT CAN MAKE FAMILIAR TREATS.

HERE IN LAFAYETTE, INDIANA, BAKERS ARE SHAPING AND ASSEMBLING AND BAKING MANY DIFFERENT KINDS OF CAKES AND COOKIES AND MEXICAN BREADS, MOST WITH A CERTAIN SWEETNESS.

Rosa: WE THE HISPANICS, OR THE MEXICANS, CALL SWEET BREAD PAN DULCE TO ALL THE PASTRIES.

EVERYTHING YOU EAT -- DOUGHNUTS, CHURROS, CAKE, YOU CALL SWEET BREAD TO EVERYTHING.

Sebak: THAT'S ROSA MONTOYA, WHO OWNS MAMA INES MEXICAN BAKERY.

SHE'S ORIGINALLY FROM THE CITY OF ZACATECAS IN CENTRAL MEXICO.

IN MEXICO, THERE IS A LOT OF BAKERIES.

EVEN IN A SMALL TOWN, THERE IS A BAKERY.

Sebak: SHE'S HAD A BAKERY HERE IN LAFAYETTE SINCE THE LATE 1990s, BUT SHE MOVED THE BUSINESS INTO THIS BUILDING THAT USED TO BE A RYAN'S STEAKHOUSE IN 2014.

Rosa: IT'S MORE LIKE AN HACIENDA-TYPE OF CONSTRUCTION HERE INSIDE.

Samantha: IT'S BEEN HERE FOR A LONG TIME.

NOT IN THIS LOCATION, BUT DOWN THE STREET IT HAS.

BUT IT JUST EXPANDED.

IT BLOOMED EVER SINCE IT CAME HERE.

Awala: IT'S ONE OF THE BIGGER, I THINK, PLACES WE KNOW YOU CAN COME GET SOME GOOD MEXICAN BREAD FROM.

WE'RE FROM CALIFORNIA ORIGINALLY, SO WE LOVE PLACES THAT REMIND US OF BACK HOME.

THE TRADITION OF A MEXICAN BAKERY IS GRAB A TRAY, GRAB A PIECE OF TONGS, AND SERVE YOURSELF.

ARE THOSE THE CUSTARD ONES?

YES.

THAT'S THE ONES.

I'LL HAVE TWO OF THOSE.

Rosa: YOU BUY MORE BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE TO KEEP ASKING, "CAN I HAVE ONE OF THESE?"

AND YOU JUST GRAB WHATEVER YOU WANT.

EVERY MEXICAN ALWAYS BUYS SOME OF THIS, WHICH IS A MEXICAN SWEET BREAD.

THEY ARE CALLED "CONCHAS," AND THEY ALWAYS GO IN THESE COLORS.

I LIKE THE PINK CONCHAS, WHAT WE CALL "CONCHAS."

AND THOSE ARE MY FAVORITE.

THE OTHER VERY FAMOUS THING IN A MEXICAN BAKERY -- AND WE MAKE THEM HANDMADE -- ARE THE CHURROS.

CHURROS ARE VERY, VERY POPULAR.

LIKE, HER MOM AND DAD ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO US BRINGING CHURROS HOME.

SO THEN IT BECOMES....

IT'S OUR HAPPINESS.

IT'S OUR HAPPY MOMENT.

A LOT OF THE BREAD IS LIKE IT IS BACK AT HOME, SO IT'S GOT A GOOD TASTE TO IT.

IT'S BETTER THAN AMERICAN DOUGHNUTS.

SO, IT JUST MAKES YOU COME BACK.

AND THE CAKES ARE BETTER, TOO.

I LIKE THEM.

I DON'T KNOW.

I HAVE TO SHOW YOU THE THREE-MILK CAKE, WHICH IS A VERY, VERY COMMON AND VERY FAMOUS HERE.

TRES LECHES.

Samantha: THEIR CAKES ARE REALLY GOOD, TOO.

THEIR PASTEL DE TRES LECHES, WHICH IS LIKE THIS, SO IT'S JUST NOT YOUR TYPICAL WHITE, STRAWBERRY, CHOCOLATE.

IT'S, YOU KNOW, A MEXICAN TRADITIONAL CAKE.

Veronica: GROWING UP, MY DAD WOULD GO TO THE PANDERIA, PICK UP THE PAN DULCE, HAVE IT AT THE HOUSE BEFORE EVERYBODY CAME HOME TO HAVE IT WITH THEIR COFFEE.

SO, YEAH, IT'S DEFINITELY A TRADITION.

IT'S PART OF OUR CULTURE.

Samantha: I WORK RIGHT NEXT DOOR, SO WE COME HERE LIKE ALMOST -- PRETTY MUCH EVERY DAY, ALMOST, TO GET, YOU KNOW, BREAD FOR GOING HOME.

IF IT'S NOT EVERY DAY, IT'S AT LEAST 3 TIMES A WEEK.

AND THESE ARE THE TAMALES RIGHT HERE.

WE HAVE THEM OUT FROM 5: 00 A.M. TO 10:00 P.M.

HUNDREDS OF THOSE.

THOUSANDS OF THOSE.

I CAN EAT TAMALES EVERY DAY.

YEAH, ALL DONE.

YOU DONE?

S^.

OKAY.

TAMBI\N.

BACK HERE WE HAVE THE KITCHENS, AND THIS IS A CAKE ROOM.

WE HAD ALREADY TALKED ABOUT THE THREE-MILK CAKE.

IT'S A MIX OF THREE DIFFERENT MILKS, WHICH IS CONDENSED, EVAPORATED, AND WHOLE MILK.

AND THE OUTSIDE IS GOING TO LOOK JUST LIKE ANY CAKE.

HE'S A VERY GOOD CAKE DECORATOR.

AND WE ONLY USE WHIPPED CREAM.

SEE, THE OTHER BAKERIES USE DIFFERENT ICINGS.

WE ONLY USE WHIPPED CREAM.

Sebak: NEARBY THERE'S A TAMALE KITCHEN, WHERE THOUSANDS OF TAMALES ARE PUT TOGETHER.

Rosa: AND WE MAKE DIFFERENT FLAVORS BECAUSE PEOPLE, THEY EAT A LOT OF HOT STUFF.

Sebak: AND IN THE ADJACENT BIG BAKING KITCHEN, ALL THE SWEET BREADS, THE PAN DULCE, ARE SHAPED AND ASSEMBLED.

HE'S COVERING CONCHAS.

AND WE HAVE BAKERS 24 HOURS A DAY.

WHEN THEY LEAVE, ANOTHER TWO COME.

AND IT'S A 24-HOUR THING BACK IN THE KITCHEN.

Sebak: IT'S A BIG, BUSY BAKERY.

I LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT IT.

THIS IS MY DREAM JOB, BECAUSE I LOVE PEOPLE, I LOVE TO DECORATE CAKES, I LIKE TO BE IN CHARGE, WHICH ALL MY FAVORITE THINGS ARE HERE.

WE ARE VERY PROUD OF THIS BAKERY.

Sebak: PRIDE IN THE QUALITY OF YOUR PRODUCT MAY BE ESSENTIAL TO ANY BAKERY'S SUCCESS.

BUT YOUR PRODUCT MAY EVEN BE ONE THAT'S SLIGHTLY OUT OF PLACE AND MAYBE UNEXPECTED.

Danny: SILVERBOW IS A BAKERY, THE OLDEST BAKERY, AND WE MAKE BAGELS.

THAT IS OUR NUMBER ONE -- BAGELS.

THIS IS THE SILVERBOW BAKERY, AND YOU ARE IN JUNEAU, ALASKA, WHICH IS IN THE SOUTHEAST PANHANDLE OF ALASKA.

Sebak: THIS BAKERY IS MOST FAMOUS FOR ITS TRADITIONAL NEW YORK-STYLE BAGELS.

SILVERBOW IS OWNED AND RUN BY JILL RAMIEL AND HER HUSBAND, KEN ALPER.

THEY LIVE HERE WITH THEIR KIDS, TWIN DAUGHTERS TILLIE AND ADENA... WOULD YOU LIKE TO TALK ABOUT WHY YOU LIKE LIVING IN A BAGEL PLACE?

'CAUSE I LOVE BAGELS.

THAT'S A GOOD REASON.

...AND THE GIRLS' OLDER BROTHER, SOLOMON.

WE MOVED UPSTAIRS IN AN APARTMENT WHEN I WAS ABOUT 4 1/2 YEARS OLD, AND WE'VE LIVED HERE EVER SINCE.

WHENEVER I COME DOWNSTAIRS FROM MY HOUSE, I JUST GET ALL THESE SMELLS OF WHAT'S HAPPENING.

AND I THINK THAT'S REALLY AWESOME, AND IT MAKES ME WANT TO EAT EVERYTHING HERE.

Jill: WE SELL A LOT OF SANDWICHES, AND WE'VE GROWN OUR MENU QUITE A BIT BECAUSE WE COULDN'T REALLY HAVE THIS LITTLE NICHE BUSINESS THAT I THOUGHT WE MIGHT BE ABLE TO.

Solomon: THE BEST FOOD OPTION THEY HAVE HERE IS PROBABLY THE COOKIES, BECAUSE THEY ARE MASSIVE AND TASTE REALLY GOOD.

Ken: WELL, THIS PLACE IS THE OLDEST BAKERY IN ALASKA.

THERE'S BEEN A BAKERY ON THIS PIECE OF PROPERTY SINCE 1902, ACTUALLY.

Solomon: MY MOM GREW UP IN STATEN ISLAND, AND MY DAD GREW UP IN MONTVILLE, NEW JERSEY.

AND THEY'VE ALWAYS LOVED BAGELS GROWING UP, SO MY PARENTS JUST WANTED TO MAKE DELICIOUS NEW YORK BAGELS HERE.

Ken: A GREAT BAGEL REQUIRES, FIRST OF ALL, HIGH-GLUTEN FLOUR, A HEAVY FLOUR.

Jill: WE HAVE A COOK WHO WORKS HERE THAT MAKES THE BAGEL DOUGH, AND THAT GETS DONE DURING THE DAY.

Sebak: THAT COOK IS OFTEN GEORGE JACKSON FROM KETCHIKAN.

HE'S THE PREP COOK WHO MAKES NOT ONLY THE DOUGH, BUT ALSO THE BAGELS THEMSELVES.

George: I MEAN, ANYONE CAN MAKE A BAGEL.

YOU COULD MAKE A BAGEL.

I COULD TEACH YOU HOW TO MAKE A BAGEL.

BUT WHAT MAKES A GOOD BAGEL IS THE PERSON PREPARING THE BAGEL AND THE MOOD THEY'RE IN.

I'M IN A GOOD MOOD.

THIS CALLS FOR 1.25 OUNCES OF YEAST.

12 OUNCES OF MALT.

I LIKE TO SAY THIS IN THE CAPITAL -- BUT 12.1 OUNCES IS GOOD ENOUGH FOR GOVERNMENT WORK.

26 QUARTS OF WATER FOR THIS RECIPE.

SET THE EMERGENCY STOP AND PUSH START.

NOW IT'S TIME FOR ME TO START GETTING THE STATION SET UP.

IT'S GOT 15 MINUTES.

TIMER'S RUNNING.

THIS IS A REALLY AMAZING MACHINE, THE BAGEL FORMER, AND WHAT I LIKE TO SAY, IT'S SOMETHING THAT YOU WOULD THINK YOU WOULD FIND OUT OF A DR. SEUSS BOOK, 'CAUSE THE WAY IT WORKS TOGETHER.

IT'S JUST AN AMAZING MACHINE.

A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE REALLY INTERESTED.

WHEN PEOPLE COME OVER AND LOOK AT THE BAGELS I'M MAKING, IT'S SOMETHING THAT YOU SEE OUT OF WHOVILLE.

BUT, YOU KNOW, I REALLY LIKE DR. SEUSS.

AND SO, I'M THINKING THE PERSON THAT DESIGNED THIS MACHINE WAS ALSO A BIG FAN.

Ken: THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF A TRADITIONAL BAGEL, THOUGH, IS THAT'S IT'S BOILED IN WATER.

A BAGEL MUST BE BOILED IN WATER.

WHAT THAT DOES IS IT GELATINIZES THE OUTER LAYER OF STARCH MOLECULES ON THE CRUST OF THE BAGEL.

SO WHEN IT GOES INTO A 500-DEGREE OVEN, YOU'LL GET A SHINY EXTERIOR, A NICE, HEAVY CRUST.

AND THEN ON THE INTERIOR, IT'S CHEWY AND HEAVY FROM THE HIGH-GLUTEN FLOUR.

Jill: WHEN IT FLOATS TO THE TOP, HE GRABS THEM OUT WITH A SCOOP, AND HE THROWS THEM ONTO WET CANVAS BOARDS, LINES THEM UP SIX TO A TRAY...

THIS IS EVERYTHING BAGELS.

Jill: ...PUTS THEM IN THE OVEN, 12 BOARDS TO AN OVEN TRAY.

OUR OVEN SIX ROTATING TRAYS.

AND THEN WHEN THE TOP OF THE BAGEL DRIES, HE WILL FLIP IT ONTO THE STONE.

SO IT BAKES FOR 5 OR SO MINUTES ON A WET CANVAS, AND THAT WILL ENABLE HIM TO BE ABLE TO FLIP IT OVER WITHOUT STICKING.

AND THAT'S WHAT THE WET CANVAS WILL DO.

AND THEN WHEN HE FLIPS IT, HE BAKES THE REST OF THE TIME ON THE HEARTHSTONE.

Danny: ONE MORE FLIP.

Sebak: THE BAKER WHO KNOWS ALL OF THIS IS DANNY LUCIANO.

THE FRONT ONE, THE FRONT SIDE ALWAYS GET BURNED SO FAST, SO I HAVE TO ROTATE THEM IN ORDER TO EVENLY BAKE, YOU KNOW?

Sebak: WHEN THEY'RE DONE, DANNY TRANSFERS THE BAGELS FROM THE OVEN TO THE BINS UP FRONT.

Jill: THE BEST THING IS COMING WHEN WE FIRST OPEN FOR A HOT BAGEL.

Chris: THIS MORNING, I GOT MY FAVORITE.

IT'S AN EVERYTHING BAGEL WITH A LOX CREAM CHEESE SPREAD.

THIS IS A CINNAMON RAISIN BAGEL WITH PLAIN CREAM CHEESE.

Ken: HONESTLY, I PREFER THE PLAIN BAGEL.

I GOT AN EVERYTHING BAGEL WITH EGG AND CHEDDAR.

WHO WANTS A PLAIN BAGEL?

THESE ARE SUNFLOWER WHEAT.

THESE ARE GOOD FOR YOU.

Jill: THE BAGEL WITH CREAM CHEESE AND LOX.

THAT'S WHAT I'M HAVING FOR BREAKFAST IS A CLASSIC WITH LOX.

Jill: PUT PLAIN CREAM CHEESE ON IT -- WHICH IS WHIPPED CREAM CHEESE.

IT'S A VERY, VERY SOFT CREAM CHEESE.

AND THEN ON TOP OF THAT, WE PUT CAPERS.

Ken: AND ALWAYS ALASKA-MADE LOX BECAUSE THE SALMON AROUND HERE IS WHAT THIS STATE'S ACTUALLY FAMOUS FOR.

Jill: AND THEN THE LOX AND THEN THE TOMATOES AND THE ONIONS.

Ken: WE DO OUR BEST TO PUT BAGELS ON THE MAP, BUT THE SALMON WERE FAMOUS SINCE LONG BEFORE WE WERE BORN.

Jill: IT'S DELICIOUS.

IT IS -- DON'T TELL ANYBODY I SAID THIS.

IT'S SO MUCH BETTER THAN NOVA SCOTIA SALMON.

IT'S GOOD.

CRUNCHY ON THE OUTSIDE, SOFT IN THE INSIDE.

I REALLY LOVE THESE.

Danny: VERY GOOD BAGELS.

Sebak: OH, WARM BAKED GOODS IN THE MORNING SEEM TO HAVE A UNIVERSAL APPEAL.

IT DOESN'T MATTER WHERE YOU ARE.

YOU COULD BE IN SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA, IN THE PARKING LOT OF A STRIP MALL ON FREEPORT BOULEVARD, WHERE THERE'S AN ODD ROUND BUILDING THAT HOUSES THE MAHOROBA JAPANESE BAKERY.

IT OPENS AT 7: 00 A.M., AND ALAINA FONG HELPS GET THINGS IN MOTION AT MAHOROBA.

IT OPENED IN JULY OF 2009.

I WAS ONE OF THE FIRST HIRED, SO I'VE BEEN HERE A WHILE.

TYPICALLY THE BAKERS COME AROUND MIDNIGHT OR 11: 00 P.M.

THE NIGHT BEFORE.

AND THEN AROUND 6: 30, 7:00, WORKERS LIKE ME, LIKE THE FRONT WORKERS, WE COME IN AND WE HELP PUT ALL THE BREAD OUT INTO THE CASES, AND JUST MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S ALL SET FOR THE DAY.

Benjamin: EVERYTHING HERE, MAYBE A FEW ARRANGEMENTS, BUT MAINLY EVERYTHING IS VERY, VERY TRADITIONAL.

CAN I GET A SWEET CREAM CHEESE AND A KOBE CREAM DELIGHT TO GO?

Sebak: BENJAMIN WINTERTON ALSO WORKS HERE, SOMETIMES AS A TRANSLATOR.

HE KNOWS HIS BOSS, WHO SPEAKS ONLY JAPANESE, IS INVOLVED IN THREE BAKERIES, AND HE LIKES THE SOUND OF THIS CITY'S NAME.

Benjamin: THIS IS THE OWNER RIGHT THERE, NARUSUKE MONGUCHI.

ORIGINALLY, YOU KNOW, HIS FAMILY OWNS ONE IN JAPAN, AND THEN HE OPENED ONE IN NEPAL.

AND THEN FROM THERE, HE CAME HERE AFTERWARDS.

[ SPEAKING JAPANESE ] SO, IN JAPAN, THE MOST FAMOUS FLOWER IS THE SAKURA, THE CHERRY BLOSSOM, AND SO SACRAMENTO, IT WAS JUST, LIKE, PERFECT.

Alaina: SO USUALLY, AMERICANS ARE VERY SWEET.

OURS ISN'T SO SWEET WHERE IT'S OVERWHELMING, BUT MORE OF, LIKE -- YOU KIND OF GET TO ENJOY THE TASTE OF IT.

Sebak: SO, NOT ALL THE PASTRIES HERE ARE SWEET.

THEY MAKE SAVORY BUNS, TOO.

CAN I JUST GET THE BACON & EGG, PLEASE?

THIS ONE?

YES.

THANKS.

Benjamin: IF YOU GO TO JAPAN, MOST BAKERIES ARE SELF-SERVE.

OVER THERE, YOU KNOW, YOU GET YOUR TRAYS, YOU GET YOUR TONGS, AND YOU PICK OUT, AND YOU GO TO THE REGISTER, AND YOU PAY.

HERE WE TRY TO KEEP IT AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE.

SO BASICALLY, WE HAVE THE CUSTOMERS COME IN AND THEY'LL CHOOSE WHAT THEY WANT, AND WE'LL GRAB THEM FOR THEM WITH THE TRAY AND THEN WE'LL WALK THEM TO THE REGISTER.

Sebak: LAUREN OKAMOTO WORKS HERE, TOO.

Lauren: I FIRST, LIKE EVERYONE ELSE, CAME HERE AS A CUSTOMER, AND I FELL IN LOVE.

I ATE IT EVERY DAY.

IF I WASN'T WORKING HERE, I'D STILL BE COMING HERE EVERY DAY.

SO MIND YOU, I LOVE THIS PLACE.

THIS ONE IS THE NEW ONE I GOT.

IT'S A RAISIN APPLE.

DOESN'T THAT LOOK DECADENT, HUH?

LOOKS GOOD.

Daniel: EVERYTHING IS SO GOOD THAT I TRY TO GET EVERYTHING AT LEAST ONCE.

AND SINCE I COME HERE SO FREQUENTLY, I TEND TO TRY EVERYTHING.

Benjamin: SO, THIS ONE HERE IS THE YAKISOBA PAN.

IT'S GOT THE -- KIND OF LIKE A HOT DOG BUN ON THE OUTSIDE WITH NOODLES, GOT BITS OF PORK AND CABBAGE INSIDE.

Lauren: I LOVE EVERYTHING.

MY ABSOLUTE FAVORITE IS PROBABLY THE CREAM CHEESE AND THE DANISH ONES.

THE SWEET CREAM DELIGHT.

YOU GUYS ARE DOCUMENTING MY CHEAT DAY, THIS IS BAD.

SO I GOT THIS FOR ONE OF MY CO-WORKERS.

THIS IS THE KOBE CREAM.

THIS IS THE SWEET CREAM, AND THAT'S THE ONE THAT I LIKE THE BEST.

Benjamin: THE ONE HERE WITH THE HAPPY FACE IS A... LOOKS VERY NICE, IS VERY POPULAR WITH THE KIDS.

IT'S GOT, LIKE, CHOCOLATE CUSTARD INSIDE.

SO THIS IS A STRAWBERRY ANKO CREAM ON THE BOTTOM IT HAS A SWEET RED BEAN PASTE, AND THEN ON TOP IT HAS THE FRESH WHIPPED CREAM AND A STRAWBERRY.

THIS IS VERY GOOD.

I FEEL LIKE IT'S A VERY GOOD COMBINATION OF JAPANESE AND AMERICAN STYLE BECAUSE RED BEAN PASTE IS A VERY TRADITIONAL INGREDIENT IN JAPANESE PASTRIES AND SO ADDING THE WHIPPED CREAM AND THE STRAWBERRY, KIND OF LIKE A LITTLE STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE KIND OF FEELING TO IT.

JUST BECAUSE MONGUCHI'S BEEN DOING IT SO LONG, AND HE KNOWS IT LIKE THE BACK OF HIS HAND.

I'LL TAKE 3 KOBE CREAMS.

Benjamin: THIS ONE HERE IS THE KOBE CREAM, OUR MOST POPULAR ONE HERE IN THE STORE.

IT'S GOT VANILLA CUSTARD INSIDE, LOTS OF IT.

IT'S JUST POURING OUT -- VERY GOOD.

IN THE JAPANESE BAKERY, THEY ACTUALLY SELL 2,000 OF THESE A DAY.

AND SO IT'S LIKE -- GOT TO MAKE, EVERY HOUR, 400 OF THESE.

KOBE CREAM DELIGHT!

THE NAME, THE KOBE CREAM DELIGHT, IS THE PLACE WHERE HE'S FROM.

Daniel: EVERY TIME I HAVE A GUEST COME IN FROM OUT OF TOWN, I BRING THEM HERE, EVEN IF IT'S JUST FOR ONE DAY.

THIS IS THE GO-TO PLACE FOR ME.

Alaina: WHEN A LOT OF PEOPLE COME, THEY MEET NEW PEOPLE AND THEN THEY JUST -- THIS JUST BECOMES A NEW PLACE TO MEET NEW FRIENDS AND EVERYTHING.

[ SPEAKING JAPANESE ] Sebak: WE MET TERRY IRAKIDA, WHO COMES HERE TWICE A WEEK TO MEET WITH A GROUP OF HER FRIENDS, ONLY ONE OF WHOM, MINNIE ISERI, SHOWED UP THIS DAY.

ANYTHING ELSE I CAN GET FOR YOU TODAY?

THAT'S ALL.

[ LAUGHS ] THAT'S ENOUGH!

Terry: WE ALL MEET HERE AND STAY ABOUT AN HOUR OR AN HOUR AND A HALF.

Minnie: THIS IS OUR FAVORITE PLACE.

IT HAS UNUSUAL BAKED PRODUCTS HERE.

SORT OF JAPANESE AND AMERICAN COMBINED, YOU KNOW, AND IT'S REALLY UNUSUAL.

YEAH.

Sebak: IT REALLY IS.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE THING HERE?

UH... [ BOTH LAUGH ] BACON AND EGGS!

[ LAUGHS ] WE HAVE OUR FAVORITES HERE.

I THINK THIS IS THE ONLY ONE.

THAT'S WHY IT'S SO POPULAR.

AND HE'S SO GOOD.

IS BUSINESS GOOD?

[ CONVERSING IN JAPANESE ] AH, GOOD.

VERY GOOD.

[ LAUGHS ] [ SPEAKING JAPANESE ] SO EVERYBODY -- A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO COME IN KNOW THAT HE CAN'T SPEAK ENGLISH, EVEN THOUGH I COME IN.

BUT THEY'LL STILL SAY LIKE HI AND STUFF... [ SPEAKING JAPANESE ] THEY'LL USUALLY STOP HIM WHILE HE'S MAKING BREAD, JUST TO SAY "THANK YOU" AND "HI" AND ALL THAT, SO... Alaina: IT'S VERY NICE TO HAVE AN AUTHENTIC JAPANESE BAKERY AND HAVE IT SO POPULAR.

Sebak: POPULARITY CAN MEAN BUSINESS, AND IT'S GOOD WHEN FOLKS COME TO SOCIALIZE AT A BAKERY LIKE IN MISSOULA, MONTANA.

THERE'S THIS BEAUTIFUL LITTLE BUSINESS CALLED BERNICE'S BAKERY.

Courtney: A HOMESTYLE BAKERY.

IT'S VERY -- IT'S REALLY WARM AND COZY AND INVITING, EVERYBODY'S REALLY FRIENDLY.

LIKE, THE BAKED GOODS ARE SOMETHING THAT YOU WOULD -- YOU KNOW, YOUR GRANDMOTHER WOULD MAKE.

Sebak: THE PLACE IS OWNED AND RUN BY TWO FOOD-SERVICE VETERANS -- MARCO LITTIG AND HIS WIFE, CHRISTINE LITTIG, WHO USED TO BE THE CHEF-OWNER OF A HIGH-END RESTAURANT HERE IN TOWN.

Christine: A HUGE PART OF WHAT MY JOB HAS BEEN IS TAKING BERNICE'S FROM BEING A BAKERY WHICH IS AN INCREDIBLE UNIQUE BUSINESS IN ITS OWN, BUT PUSHING IT IN THIS SORT OF CHEF-LIKE WAY.

I THINK THE THING I TAKE THE MOST PRIDE IN IS OUR STAFF.

Marco: WE LOVE OUR STAFF.

OUR STAFF IS AMAZING, AND THEY'RE AMAZING PEOPLE.

April: WE'RE SEPARATING EGGS TO GET EGG WHITES FOR ITALIAN BUTTERCREAM.

WHO DOESN'T WANT A LITTLE BAG OF CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES?

THIS IS THE BASE FOR OUR LEMON-BLUEBERRY-CHEESECAKE BAR, AND IT'S OUR ALL-PURPOSE CRUMBLE.

Joe: YOU HAVE TO KEEP AN EYE ON IT SO YOU DON'T OVER MIX IT.

IT'LL GET TOUGH LIKE BREAD, FORM GLUTENS, OR... Courtney: IT'S NOT LIKE A TRADITIONAL, LIKE, FRENCH ARTISAN BAKERY, LIKE OUR CROISSANTS ARE -- THEY'RE HEFTIER, THEY'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT MORE WEIGHT TO THEM, AND WE DO THAT INTENTIONALLY 'CAUSE THAT'S OUR STYLE.

WE USE A LOT OF BUTTER HERE.

[ LAUGHS ] THESE ARE FOR OUR WHOLESALE.

THESE GO OUT TO THE GOOD FOOD STORE AND ORANGE STREET FOOD FARM.

Sonny: EVERY DAY, THAT'S WHERE I EAT MY BREAKFAST.

WE'RE GONNA HEAD OVER TO THE ORANGE STREET FOOD FARM, WHICH IS ONE OF THE NICE LOCAL GROCERY STORES HERE.

WE'LL GIVE THEM SOME COOKIES AND SEE HOW THINGS ARE GOING THERE.

Marco: IT'S A BIG STAFF, AND SO ESSENTIALLY, YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT MARCO AND CHRISTINE DO?

WE MANAGE A STAFF OF 35 PEOPLE, AND WE RUN A BUSINESS.

SO WE USE...IT'S A LOT -- IT'S A LOT OF EGGS.

SO WE USE A GALLON OF EGG WHITES AND 18 POUNDS OF BUTTER, A LARGE AMOUNT OF SUGAR, AS WELL.

Christine: WE'VE BEEN HERE FOR 36 YEARS, BERNICE'S HAS.

IT HAS HAD THREE FEMALE OWNERS.

SO BECKY BOLINGER WAS THE FIRST OWNER, AND SHE OWNED IT FOR 11 YEARS, FOLLOWED BY ESTHER CHESSEN, AND THEN FOLLOWED BY MY HUSBAND AND MYSELF.

WHEN LOOKING AT THE BAKERY, THE BAKERY USED TO BE JUST THIS, JUST THIS LITTLE SHED SPOT WHEN IT WAS OPENED BY BECKY.

Courtney: THE FIRST OWNER, BECKY -- HER GIVEN NAME WAS ACTUALLY BERNICE, BUT SHE WENT BY BECKY.

Christine: AND, SO, WHEN WE BOUGHT THE BAKERY, WHAT WE WERE BUYING AND WHAT WE WERE COMMITTED TO IS THE COMMUNITY THAT'S HERE.

WHEN I FIRST GOT HERE 13 YEARS AGO AND WAS WORKING FOR ESTHER BEFORE WE BOUGHT THE BAKERY, WE MADE EIGHT CAKES A DAY.

THAT WAS IT.

WE NOW MAKE 50 CAKES A DAY.

AND SO WHAT WE DID IS TURN A GARAGE OUT BACK INTO A FULL-FUNCTIONING FINISHING ROOM, SO THE PRODUCT WE PREPARE HERE GETS TRANSFERRED OUT TO THAT ROOM, AND THEN THE DECORATORS GET TO WORK IN THAT ROOM IN A MORE ISOLATED ENVIRONMENT.

Mikaila: I'M JUST TRYING TO MAKE EVERYTHING LOOK AS GREAT AS POSSIBLE.

Christine: AND WE SAID, "WELL, IF WE DON'T LOVE IT IN 5 YEARS, WE'LL SELL IT."

BUT NOW IT'S 11 YEARS LATER, SO HERE WE ARE.

Joe: 18 POUNDS.

ONE GALLON OF EGG WHITES.

THE COOKIES, TOO -- PEOPLE HAVE JUST GONE HAYWIRE FOR COOKIES IN THE LAST FEW MONTHS, IT SEEMS LIKE, SO...

THIS IS THE CR\ME DE LA CR\ME RIGHT HERE.

THIS BABY -- MOLASSES COOKIE.

AND IT PROBABLY HAS MORE TO DO WITH THE FACT THAT I'VE KIND OF GOT OLD LADY TASTE BUDS.

I LOVE GINGERBREAD, LOVE MOLASSES... Teal: YOU KNOW, YOU'D THINK A COOKIE WOULD BE SIMPLE, BUT [LAUGHS] EVERYBODY LOVES THEM, SO... Mikaila: THIS IS CALLED A SCROLL DESIGN.

SOMETHING WE USE A LOT ON OUR CAKES... AND HAVE ADAPTED IT TO WORK ON CUPCAKES.

Sebak: BERNICE'S IS A RARE BAKERY THAT ALSO SERVES LUNCH SPECIALS EVERY DAY.

Marco: LUNCH CAME ABOARD, OH, ABOUT 2 YEARS AFTER CHRISTINE AND I BOUGHT IT.

THIS IS CURRY-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH AN HERBED CREAM CHEESE.

Marco: AND WHAT WE REALIZED IS OUR STAFF WAS RUNNING ON SUGAR AND COFFEE.

WELL, SOME BAKERIES LIKE TO SHOW OFF THEIR BREAD PRODUCTS BY, YOU KNOW, SERVING SANDWICHES.

Marco: AND SO WE CREATED LUNCHES FOR OUR STAFF, TRULY.

PEOPLE ARE GONNA DIG IT.

I'M POSITIVE.

Marco: SO MONTY IS OUR CHEF.

I LOVE WHAT HE DOES.

WELL, WHAT LUNCH DID IS IT JUST PROVIDED A PLACE FOR PEOPLE TO COME THROUGHOUT THE COURSE OF THE DAY, AND IT STEADIED OUR FLOW.

AND, YOU KNOW, WHEN PEOPLE COME INTO A PLACE, THEY DON'T WANT TO BE THE ONLY ONE SITTING AT A TABLE.

THEY WANT TO BE AT A PLACE THAT THERE'S TABLES AVAILABLE, BUT THERE'S OTHER PEOPLE AND THERE'S ACTIVITY, AND THERE'S A COMMUNITY AROUND YOU.

Courtney: OH, YEAH.

OH, YEAH.

THE REGULARS THAT COME IN LIKE AT 6: 00, 6:30, THOSE GUYS ARE HERE ON THE DOT EVERY DAY.

George: WELL, ON A MONDAY, IT'S GOOD TO GET HERE EARLY AND READ THE PAPER.

I'VE BEEN COMING HERE FOR AT LEAST 25 YEARS.

I LIVE THREE DOORS DOWN, AND I COME HERE EVERY MORNING AT THE SAME TIME.

BUT I HAVE TO GET HERE EARLY TO READ THE PAPER.

ABOUT 15 YEARS AGO, PEOPLE STARTED TALKING TO ME.

PHIL INTRODUCED HIMSELF.

AND I ORDER THE SAME THING -- A RASPBERRY JAM CROISSANT AND A DECAF WITH A REFILL.

I LOVE THE AMBIANCE.

I LOVE THE ART.

I LOVE THE FLOOR, THE WARM HEATER OVER HERE WITH THE FLAME.

I SIT HERE.

GEORGE SITS THERE.

PHIL SITS THERE.

NORMALLY, ORRIN SITS THERE.

AND I'M KIND OF A PRIVATE PERSON, BUT HERE IT'S KIND OF A SOCIAL THING, AND -- ALWAYS THE SAME PEOPLE, AND WE CHAT BACK AND FORTH, YOU KNOW, 'CAUSE...YEAH.

I...I WAS MARRIED TO THIS WONDERFUL WOMAN FOR 38 YEARS, AND SHE LET ME COME DOWN HERE, OF COURSE.

IT'S A NICE -- NICE GROUP OF GUYS.

BUT SHE PASSED AWAY SUDDENLY LAST FALL -- 85 DAYS AGO.

AND THE FIRST PERSON -- I MEAN I GOT HOME FROM THE HOSPITAL AT 3:00 IN THE MORNING, AND I CAME HERE AT 6:00, AND THE FIRST PERSON TO GIVE ME A HUG WAS PHIL.

ALL OF THOSE GUYS THAT COME IN IN THE MORNING LIKE CLOCKWORK, THEY ARE THE -- THEY ARE THE GLUE.

AND EVERYONE ARRIVED AND THEY TOOK ME TO MY HOUSE AND THEY GAVE ME FOOD AND TOOK CARE OF ME, AND SO IT'S THAT SENSE OF COMMUNITY THAT'S IMPORTANT TO ME, AND I NEEDED HELP AND -- SO IT'S KIND OF A FAMILY, MY FAMILY.

THESE ARE MY FRIENDS.

THAT'S WHY THE FAVORITE PIECE IS THE PEOPLE.

THAT'S WHY THE PIECE THAT KEEPS MY HUSBAND AND I FOCUSED ON WHAT WE'RE DOING, KEEPS US COMMITTED TO THE EXCELLENCE THAT WE REQUIRE FROM EVERYBODY, IS THAT WE HAVE A FAMILY.

WE HAVE 35 PEOPLE IN OUR STAFF THAT'S OUR FAMILY, AND THEN WE HAVE A SIGNIFICANT PORTION OF MISSOULA THAT'S OUR FAMILY.

WHAT'S NOT TO LOVE?

Sebak: OH, IT'S EASY TO LOVE A BAKERY -- ITS PRODUCTS AND ITS PEOPLE.

AND YOU'RE LUCKY IF THERE'S A GREAT ONE NEAR YOU.

Daniel: TO HAVE SOMEWHERE REALLY DELICIOUS THAT YOU CAN COME ANY TIME OF DAY AND GET SOMETHING GOOD IS A REAL PLUS FOR THE NEIGHBORHOOD.

BUT GREAT BAKERIES ARE ALSO WORTH SEARCHING FOR NO MATTER WHERE YOU GO.

I HOPE THAT ONE DAY THERE ARE BAKERIES ON EVERY CORNER, AND THAT WE GET ACCUSTOMED TO THAT.

Sebak: THEY'RE IMPORTANT AND TASTY BUSINESSES THAT HELP MAKE COMMUNITIES MORE DELICIOUS, LIFE SWEETER, AND THE WORLD A MORE EXCITING AND SCRUMPTIOUS PLACE.

AND IF I CAN DO IT WITH COOKIES AND MILK... [ LAUGHS ] ...THEN THAT'S FINE WITH ME.

FOR EXTRA VIDEO BAKED GOODS AND TO ADD YOUR FAVORITE BAKERY TO OUR LIST, GO TO pbs.org/food.

"A FEW GREAT BAKERIES" IS AVAILABLE ON DVD.

TO ORDER, VISIT ShopPBS.org OR CALL 1-800-PLAY-PBS.