The Daytripper

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- There's a line of sorts in Texas, a very blurry line, a line where the hill country turns into the West, where rolling green slopes give way to rough sweeping basins.

The people here are fiercely independent, and the stories they tell are as old as the Texas dirt.

They stand on.

Menard established 1871.

Well, except for that other time, it was established in 1757, but that one didn't really stick.

And that's a whole nother story.

We're not even in the episode yet.

Menard, About two and a half hours north and west of both Austin and San Antonio lies Menard, Texas.

The downtown district sits just a stone throw from the San Saba River.

It's the kind of place where time starts moving a little slower.

Welcome to Menard.

Now, what you see today is sort of a quiet, quaint little charmer on the western edge of the hill country.

But for over a hundred years, that definitely wasn't the case.

As this entire area was the battleground to decide who would control the Texas frontier, stories of conquest, treasure, blood, and war, abandoned forts, a lost silver mine, and a flowing river.

In other words, we have a great day of tripping ahead.

The lore is big, but the town is small.

By any measure, the population sits around 1300 folks.

But if it had been up to the Spanish over 250 years ago, well, we might be standing in one of the biggest cities in Texas for that story.

We're gonna visit the ruins of Presidio Deba, an abandoned Spanish fort, and a battered reminder of just how fierce the Texas frontier truly was.

So this fort is the only remnant of the Spanishes attempts to colonize this part of Texas.

It's hard to wrap your head around, but at one point there were over 400 Spanish citizens living within these walls, soldiers, families, priests, and they had come here with the intentions of making this area the next great Spanish community of Texas, even bigger than San Antonio.

So what happened?

Well, a lot of bloodshed.

The Spanish had already established missions in East Texas and San Antonio, but in the 1750s, they decided to push even deeper into the heart of Texas.

- The Spanish were bound and determined to cement their claims to Texas by establishing a permanent presence in the center of Texas.

- This is Terry Kelly, who's been researching this fort for years.

Through firsthand accounts and extensive digs, researchers have learned a lot about life.

Inside these walls, - You'd have smell them cooking beans.

You've had the kids running around, you'd had chickens, and we have a lot of turtles in the San Sabba River.

Yeah, they're pretty easy to catch.

And apparently very, very tasty because the amount of turtle shells that the archeologists found here just absolutely blew their minds.

- I guess you couldn't be too picky in those days.

However, very soon Spain's conquest proved difficult.

You see, the Spanish were enticed to the area by the leap on Apache, who promised to become good Spanish citizens, and who told legends of a nearby silver mine.

The major problem is that with this sport and its corresponding mission, the Spanish anger, not just the Comanche and other tribes, but Spain's mortal enemy, - France, the French, were not happy about it, - Sir.

- They got with these other Texas tribes and said, make sure that that mission and the Presidio fort are not successful.

- Take the Spanish out.

Yeah.

Four miles downstream, set the mission.

And on a fateful morning in March of 1758, a war band of 2000 natives armed with French weapons attacked - In short order.

They wiped out a good portion of the mission.

Two of the three priests were martyred, but they were able somehow the survivors to escape and, and get back up up here to the Presidio.

- It was a massacre and started an endless cycle of violence for the fort's residents.

- They never reestablished the mission.

The Presidio here remained under a siege for almost 10 years.

- 10 years, - 10 years.

Continuous siege.

You go outside the walls.

They had one situation where, where 23 of the soldiers were killed one time.

- Wow.

- Yeah.

Can you imagine just living in these walls with the constant threat of Indian attack?

Oh, yeah.

The Spanish were prisoners in their own fort, and about 10 years in, they officially loaded the wagons and abandoned everything, and they retreated back to San Antonio.

- Went back to San Antonio, okay.

And never ever made another effort to come back up here on a permanent basis.

And the Comanches then were, were the Lords around here for almost 90 years.

- This was the war for the West, and the Spanish had lost this battle.

But one thing that remained long after the Spanish was the legend of that Apache silver mine.

And over the years, numerous travelers came to the area seeking their fortune, including one very famous Texan Alamo defender.

Jim, who left his name carved on the original gate stones.

- We know he was here about, I think it was 1831.

And it's B-O-U-I-E.

And we say, wait a minute, Bowie is spelled BOWI.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

In Spanish, there is no W. So, but can pronounce B-O-U-I-E if.

Yeah, - Bowie Bowie.

So he was up here looking for that.

Exactly.

Native silver.

- Yeah.

- People still looking for this thing.

Of course.

Really?

- Oh yeah.

People devote their entire lives to it, and every penny they got, - You got some shovels, - Let's go.

Go for it.

Even sell you a map.

Yeah, sure.

He - Can.

Untold stories like that of Presidio de San Saba are exactly why I love traveling Texas so much.

Bowie may be onto something.

There could be silver in these hills.

I - Keep hearing on Fox News, the value of silver is rising every day.

- So I'd be down to go searching.

- Where's the best place to hide it?

A cave or dig a hole?

Like - That's, I think part of the mystery.

Is it still in the ground?

You just gotta find the vein of silver.

Can you - Use like the divining rods and then kind of just hold them.

Oh, together.

- Whoa.

Silver up creep buoy.

Hey, you're only crazy if you go broke.

And my plan is to get rich, but at this moment, I need to search for a different kind of treasure.

One that comes in the shade of buttery, flaky gold and comes baked, filled and topped a hundred different ways by the three owners of Texas Scratch Kitchen, who also happen to be sisters.

Three sisters open a bakery together.

And y'all still like each other?

- Yes.

Somehow, because we have to share a room.

We have to like each other.

- Which one's the oldest?

You?

- I'm the oldest.

I'm 19.

- Okay.

- I'm 17.

I'm 15.

- Wow, that's awesome.

This is Zia Maya and Layla pressed sisters with deep family roots in Menard, who were born in England, but then moved back a few years ago and began dialing in their crusty craft.

- Mayan had just been baking in her house all the time.

It was just her.

I've had baking since I was - Six.

Obsessively, nonstop, - Obsessively.

It got outta hand.

We couldn't consume it all anymore.

We decided to share her food.

We're also part English.

We grew up in England during our early years, and we were just eating French pastries and all the delicate stuff, all the little fancy sweets.

And when we moved over here, we were like, we missed that and wanted to share it.

- If Bernard is missing anything, it's a French pastry shop.

Thank you.

Exactly.

That's what everyone was thinking.

They started bacon for the farmer's market, and before long, we're ready for their own scratch kitchen.

So what, what do we have here?

Like this spread?

Because I, I can't hold myself back any longer.

- So this one is an almond croissant, a cherry blueberry danish.

- And - That's a, so it has arto carts, goat cheese, roasted red bull peppers, micro greens, caramelized onions.

- I love carbs.

Ah.

Oh, that's so good.

Daniel.

Get in this.

Look how fluffy croissant it is.

The camera eats first.

Yum.

Yeah, they're all bred, but they're so different.

- Oh yeah.

Yep.

- Of course.

The sisters had some guidance from their parents, some trouble from their younger siblings, and lots of encouragement from local makers.

Is this work yet?

- Yes, to an extent.

It's worked with free bread, so yeah.

- Okay.

Worth.

- Hey Chet, you wanna go learn how to make shoe buns?

- What in the world is a shoe buns?

- Shoe bun is a light, fluffy French pastry that we're, - How do I say yes in English?

Because Yes, - Yes.

Works just fine.

- And now we follow Maya into her domain.

Another type of bread, - Another type of bread.

Because we are all carbo forres here.

- Yeah.

You love it.

- Okay, so we're gonna combine our milk butter.

- Sorry, that was bad.

I'm already going off the rails.

Sorry.

I tried to do it - So artistically.

You're fine.

You're fine.

Our water and our salt and sugars.

So once our butter is melted, we are going to stir in our flour.

Now we're gonna grab those eggs.

- Okay.

- Best stir, stir, stir.

It's gonna look a little odd at first.

- Looks like juicy mashed potatoes.

Yeah.

Nobody warned me how much stirring was involved.

- It's almost there.

- Just keep stirring.

Just keep stirring.

Just keep stirring.

- You're almost there.

All right.

Hold it up.

All right.

That's perfect.

Perfect.

And you're just gonna, all right, now you're gonna brush the tops of these.

Oh, all right.

And now we're gonna get 'em in the oven.

- Some of my finest work.

Ha.

Shoe buns.

- So what we're gonna do now is we're gonna open 'em all up and we're gonna fill 'em with cream and top 'em with ice cream.

Okay.

Show us your skills.

- Oh yeah.

There you go.

Extra.

Okay.

Okay.

- That's the one.

Boom.

All - Right.

This, this one will be mine.

Ooh, - Beautiful.

- Now that's where it's at.

- Oh yeah.

I mean, have you made it - Yourself?

Yeah.

I'll take credit for that.

You did it all.

I mean, I had a good teacher, believe it or not, we still haven't eaten lunch yet.

And for a bit of protein to balance these carbs while I'm going with the sirloin sandwich on homemade focaccia, topped with greens grown out back and bsic jam.

Alright, it's finally time for lunch.

That's if I haven't already eaten my weight in carbs.

There's some horse radish working in there.

Oh, it is so good.

Those girls learned young and they are way ahead of the game when it comes to craft food.

My goodness.

This is amazing.

Thank you Lord for making carbs.

- Hey, you got a little there on your face.

- Where?

Where?

Ooh.

As I mentioned, Menard is small, but it is the proud county seat of Menard County.

The historic downtown is quiet, but with plenty of reminders that it was once a booming railroad town with the population double its current size.

And amazingly right in the middle of town is a historic irrigation ditch built by the Spanish that has endured for almost 300 years.

But for our next stop, well, we're gonna take a little road trip.

Alright.

Does anybody want some more bread?

What are you talking about?

When did you get that?

As if we haven't eaten enough bread?

- Have we eaten anything besides carbs the whole time?

We, - To be honest, I don't remember.

'cause I'm carved out.

I know the Bible says man cannot live on bread alone, but I don't know if they had ever been too menard.

I think you're good with that loaf for at least a solid hour.

I'm doing it for a while.

That Texas scratch kitchen was amazing though.

- 17-year-old girl is a boss.

- That 15-year-old is doing more to provide for the family than mine.

I'm kind of thinking I need to have a conversation with - My oldest daughter.

Yeah.

I'm gonna have one with my 15-year-old as well.

- Daddy wants his macarons.

- Hey, it's not a road trip without snacks.

As we head about 20 miles west of Bernard to visit a very different fort from a very different era, you see almost exactly 100 years after Spain failed to control this land, the United States of America returned to pick up the fight.

Welcome to Fort mct.

- This is one of the best preserved Indian war sports in the state of Texas.

This is Kevin Malcolm, - Curator, interpreter, and bonafide Texas historian.

The Comanche War trail passed - Really close to this fort, right, right.

Within about three miles of Fort mct, which is why this fort was established here on top of this commanding hill to create a view of the whole valley where these comanches would move through.

Interesting.

It's also home to the 24th Infantry regiment, which is one of the storied buffalo soldier regiments in the United States Army, the 19th century.

- Wow.

So this is post Civil War allowing these - Emancipated - Slaves to - Have a profession.

Right.

But it is one of the few forts in Texas that operated before, during, and after the Civil War.

Oh, - Interesting.

Fort MCT was established in 1852 and served until 1883 when battles with the Comanche had been pushed into the panhandle and there was no longer a need for armed soldiers in the hill country.

So why are some of these still standing and summer in - Ruins?

When the army abandoned the post in 1883, local citizens actually purchased these buildings as town lots.

Within about six hours, the town of Fort Mact was established of, gosh, the Army's abandonment.

Oh gosh.

Wow.

And - The ones that are still standing today are standing because they never saw a break in somebody living in them.

As you do with your own house.

Yeah.

You keep it up, roof leaks, you fix it.

Right.

Exactly.

You live in there.

Mact went from being a fort to a full blown town.

At one point there was even a post office restaurant and dance hall built in the middle of the parade grounds.

But now all the non-military buildings have been removed as the Texas Historic Commission seeks to restore the buildings and the stories.

- Wow.

Well, welcome to Officers quarters number 10.

This is one of the houses that's on Lieutenant's Road.

This is a junior officer's quarters.

This is a pretty big house by 1850 standards.

Yeah, by 1850 standards.

But this was for multiple families.

So you can see you've got goodness, your dining room, your office, and your bedroom all in the same room.

- Oh, in one spot.

Yeah.

Where do the kids sleep?

Like probably on the floor.

No kidding.

Wow.

Sorry.

Kids.

At least it ain't dirt.

Now, being an officer had its privileges.

And if you think this is tight living, wait till you see - The enlisted barracks.

We've set these rooms up in two different eras.

This room right here that you see has bunk beds.

These bunk beds are called cribs.

Those are built for four men, two on top and two on bottom.

- That's close - Living quarters there it is.

Very close.

This next room that we're gonna go in, there's a little bit more space for the men in the period after the Civil War.

And I believe we have one of our very own Buffalo soldiers here for you to talk to.

Oh, amazing.

- This is Jeremy Jackson portraying an enlisted buffalo soldier of the famed 24th Infantry Regiment.

So tell me a little bit how, how did you end up out here at Fort Mcca?

- Well, we was established in New Orleans, Louisiana in 1866.

- Okay.

- We came out here in Fort Mcca in 1869 and we got all this established.

Everybody pitched and played their part, and we made this home.

- So like daily life for someone such as you, a buffalo soldier, what do you do out here?

– We all wake up at 6: 00 AM in the morning, eat breakfast and do chores and have drill.

- Okay.

- Evidently the same.

That's what caught on patrol.

And then that's when things get a little bit unplanned.

- I bet.

So how long till you get to go back home?

- I don't know yet.

That's still a mystery.

- Coral's an honor to talk to you.

- Nice to meet you.

Thank - You for signing up to serve our country.

- Thank you.

- He didn't break character once for over a decade, Buffalo soldiers bravely served in some of the most dangerous places across the American frontier.

All right.

So this is an incredible story about a particular soldier who was stationed here named Emanuel Stance.

He was actually the first black Medal of honor recipient following the Civil War.

So he and a group of fellow soldiers are called into action.

After two young boys were kidnapped near Mason by Apaches, they go out into the field, they're able to rescue the boys, recover a bunch of stolen horses, and they come back heroes.

And for that act of bravery, he is awarded the Medal of Honor.

Visiting this fort is like going back in time.

A time when the harsh realities of war and the loneliness of the frontier created a deep need for community.

This is Chaplain Christopher Rokey.

So chaplain on base, what's your job entail?

- In 1868, the army mandated that all regiments had to have their own chaplain.

The other job that is part of the chaplain's office is education.

They wanted to start educating the black enlisted soldiers.

Oh wow.

And it doubles on Sundays as the the worship site.

- So many stories of men and women who served.

And just like today, there were many jobs in the army, although I'm not sure TV host was one of them.

So I better find a new fit.

You see what kind of soldier I would've made out here at Fort Mcot.

I'm already not liking this wool coat.

Well, I like the hat though.

- I'm thinking that hat does not fit.

- Oh, I got this other one better.

- It's more.

You - Better?

All right, look over here.

Infantry backpack, who probably shouldn't have eaten so much bread at lunch.

What do you think?

Would they hire me?

Mm.

Yeah.

I don't know.

The story of the frontier is a complicated one, but the best way to begin to understand its triumphs and failures is to get out and visit the places they truly happened.

Luckily, this area is no longer a battlefield, so we don't need to patrol in wool uniforms.

Instead, we get to enjoy the freedoms that come with wearing a swimsuit.

So with the Sands River running right through the middle of Menard, I knew there had to be some great swimming holes out here.

And fortunately I followed one of the number one rules the day tripping.

Always bring a swimsuit.

Man, this is so cool.

This rock shell sort of creates a natural pool right there.

You start talking to locals, they have different names for it.

A lot of 'em call it eight mile because it's eight miles outside of town.

Other folks just call it the hillbilly hot tub.

Maybe like hillbilly washing machine would be a better name.

As you know, the crew can't stay out of the water.

So interesting fact, this watering hole was once the site of a skirmish between the Buffalo soldiers of Fort MCT and the Native Indians.

It's hard to imagine because it's so peaceful and serene now, but Rwanda clock and that definitely wasn't the case.

What can you do with the peace freedom brings?

Well, I think I'll take a nap.

Well amigos, in my opinion, there's only one thing to do after taking a dip in a Texas swimming hole.

So let's head back into town.

And while Menard might fly under the radar, it's supernatural draw is becoming all too apparent.

And before the town was here, the Apache actually called this area Summerland.

And according to their legends, if you drank from the sand Saba River, you would forever thirst to return.

And well thirsty is exactly what I am.

So let's find ourselves a beverage and some dinner at Summerland public house owners, Luke and his wife Sarah, opened Summerland to bring some serious food craft and creativity to Menard with some dishes even I've never seen.

Alright, buddy made you - Something.

- What - Is - This?

It's a corn rib and you eat it like a rib.

Flash fried corn.

Dress it up with some street corn seasonings.

- Dude, that's so good.

Will it work?

- Yeah.

- Good.

I think this sort of epitomizes what you guys are doing out here.

Sure.

You're bringing something new to man.

Menards.

- Everything that we're doing with our food is very intentional for us.

Good food doesn't necessarily have to be fancy.

Sure.

It just needs to be quality.

- And so Luke and the team go to painstaking lengths with everything from blistered shishito peppers to hand tossed pizza.

- Tara grew up here in Bernard.

I grew up in Boston, Massachusetts.

Oh.

And we live in a million different places and finding food that we love.

We just happened to vacuum.

Menard really wanted a place where we could go eat good quality food, bring our family, have a cold beer, and listen to some good music.

And because I never thought I'd be in Menard, Texas with a little pub down here, but that river calls me back every day.

Literally.

It's okay.

It's a beautiful place.

- Given his eclectic taste and upbringing, Luke's known for hosting random lobster dinners.

I mean, tonight his buddy Adam is slinging fresh oysters.

It's a craft food oasis.

The big seller though, is smash burgers.

They make up 80% of business and it's time to see what the hype is all about.

Alright, Terry, what are we gonna make today?

- Today we're gonna make a public house double, which is one of the bestselling burgers here.

Most important for me is the crust and the grill.

Great-great uncle cooked here back in the early sixties.

And this is the same grill you used.

Seriously, - Look at the seasoning in - There.

Yes.

You can't go and buy one of those at restaurant supplies.

Flip the bacon.

It gets three strips.

American cheese on it.

And this is our famous house sauce.

So we're gonna top it off with a few onions.

The jalapenos.

I love it.

I didn't have to order it with jalapenos.

It just came with jalapenos.

Yes sir.

And that is the public house - Double.

Oh my goodness.

Terry, you're an artist.

Thank y'all very much.

Amazing.

All right.

Here it is.

Definitely requires two hands.

That is smash burger, perfection right there.

The crispy edges around the burger.

Ah.

Oh.

That's where the magic is.

What Luke and Sarah have built here is what the public house was originally intended for.

Placed together with friends and your family.

Enjoy some good food, cold beverage, and a good time.

And man, they have nailed it.

Drive through Menard and you might miss, its incredible, even if complicated origin so much bloodshed over such a coveted piece of land.

However, after spinning a day exploring well, it's obvious this place is worth the fight, a historian's dream, a swimmer's playground, and a foodie's paradise.

So while we may not have found any silver, we definitely struck day tripper gold.

So I will see all y'all out on the road.

Mike Condi Amigos.

Great day in Summerland crew.

- The "Daytripper" is made possible by Rudy's, real Texas barbecue.

Shipping nationwide at rudys.com.

Karbach Brewing Company from Houston, Texas, makers of Karbach Lager, a beer that is proudly partnered with Don't Mess with Texas, please dispose responsibly.

Visit Georgetown, where big ideas meet small town charm.

Georgetown, the most beautiful town square in Texas.

Texas Farm Bureau Insurance, protection and peace of mind for Texans since 1952.

Don Hewlett Chevrolet Buick in Georgetown.

Making Texas road trips possible for over 50 years.

Don Hewlett Chevrolet Buick, Texas True.

Coca-Cola Southwest Beverages, Texas' local bottler providing the Lone Star state with a variety of Coca-Cola products.