People of the North

-Funding for this series has been provided in part by the following.

-The Stavanger region -- adventurous shores, deep fjords, lively towns, and the iconic Preikestolen.

The Edge of Norway.

-Norwegian Alpinco -- connecting mountain spots, steep slopes, alpine villages, and outdoor activities all year round.

-In Sigdal, Norway, where mountains rise and forests whisper, Anne Line and Courtney create Norwegian gifts so you can bring a piece of Norway with you.

Nordic Box -- memories from Norway.

- Oh, take me home, take me home where I belong -VGAN Chocolate, Norwegian flavor.

- I can't take it anymore [ Jet engine roaring ] -We are in the wild and beautiful northwestern Norway.

The Kingdom of the Waterfalls.

And we're going to show you some amazing sceneries.

-And I'm going to make some delicious food using the great local ingredients.

-We know the Englishman came here over 100 years ago and they loved a good martini, so that's what I'm going to make.

-Welcome to Sunndal.

-Join me on a journey where we will meet people who live, work, and enjoy life right here in the Far North.

I'm taking you to meet the fantastic people of the North.

Sunndal is an idyllic place with mighty mountains, valleys, and a lush green scenery that captures you among beautiful waterfalls.

Before we dive into all the things one can experience in the Kingdom of the Waterfalls, I want to properly introduce our lovely chef and travel companion, Nevada.

Coffee?

-Yes, please.

-At this beautiful spot.

-Oh, my goodness.

It's gorgeous.

-You have never been here before?

-I've never been to this part.

-And you've never been in "People of the North" before?

-No.

-So many new things.

-So many new things.

Exciting things.

-Even though you're American, you don't live in the Americas.

-No.

I've actually lived here in Norway since 2015.

So, I moved here with my Norwegian husband from Bergen and our son, and decided to settle down in Numedal, in the valley and explore beautiful Norway and the cuisine.

-You're a well-known cookbook author.

Written many books.

Why did you become so fascinated with this small country?

-You know, I think living abroad, before we moved here, I always... I was fascinated because of my husband's family.

And I just knew that when we moved here, I had to find out what... There was so much more than what was presented.

-On this trip, with the bearded gin maker and myself... -Mm-hmm.

-...what are your expectations coming in, all the way in to these magnificent fjords and rivers and mountains?

-I'm so excited to meet the local producers.

You know, I always say whatever corner you turn in Norway, you discover something new.

And so I'm excited to discover some exciting new things here.

-Are you ready?

-I'm ready.

-We begin our journey with breakfast at Nyheim Lodge, which was built in 1905 by Edgar and Harriet Crookshank, who had been here on holidays and wanted their own mansion by the river.

We are greeted by Ragnhild Nisja, who owns Nyheim now.

Breakfast!

Hi.

Good morning.

Baked bread!

-Yes.

-Crescent rolls.

-They are lovely.

-Ooh, and they're warm.

[ Laughter ] -And, of course, tea.

-Yes.

You must have tea.

-The British brought their traditions for food, fishing, and culture to Norway, and quite a few of them built their own lodges here in Sunndal.

They are well preserved, and much of the interior and artifacts are still here for us modern-day travelers.

And what's the story about Nyheim Lodge?

-Only one English family has owned this house.

-And they left around, eh...?

-1965, '66.

And then my aunt buy it from them.

-But when you took over, it was not as nicely refurbished as now.

-No.

-You have done a lot of work here.

-A lot of work the last ten years.

Yes.

I fresh up.

-Yeah.

[ Laughter ] -I would say fresh up a lot.

And of course, as we can see on the wall here, the catch is very well documented.

And I assume that the salmon fishing here was really the attraction.

-This was the attraction.

-And you are going to go on a really nice journey now.

-Yeah, I get to go to all the local producers and pick up some ingredients for our meals that we're gonna have later.

What do you guys doing?

-I know there is this unique botanical in this area that I should try to find.

-Yeah.

We're probably going to do some tough hiking, some adventure.

Sunndal is a great place for the outdoors.

Hiking and relaxing in this magnificent valley opens numerous opportunities.

Today, people here make a living based on sustainable hydropower.

The entrepreneurial spirit is strong, bringing skills and handcraft from the farming days into innovations and technology for companies who have the whole world as their marketplace.

People living in and off the breathtaking mountains and the ever-running water.

And what does it mean to this little society that you are here?

-More than 50% of the aluminium to Europe is coming from Norway.

And Sunndal has the biggest plant in Norway producing aluminium.

So, of course we are important for not only Sunndal, but even Norway and Europe.

-And you are here to stay?

-Yes.

Of course.

[ Laughs ] -Sunndal is called the Kingdom of the Waterfalls.

That's so easy to see.

The mountains are steep and there's beautiful waterfalls everywhere.

Good for a salmon river, and good for supplying sustainable hydropower, but also a treat for us tourists.

Stig and I are venturing up the spectacular Vinnu staircase, finalized in 2024 by Sherpas from Nepal.

First on Nevada's hunt for local food is Svisdal and Stina, who makes lovely mountain rhubarb cordial.

-It's so beautiful here.

-Thank you.

My rhubarb is over here.

-Oh, look how full they are.

-Yeah, they are really big.

-And gorgeous.

-Yeah.

When we moved here, it was huge.

It was almost up to the top.

-Oh, really?

-With the flowers.

And I would think, I have to use it somehow.

And I started to make saft, and people liked it.

[ Both laugh ] So then I thought, well, maybe I can sell it.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-Back at the Vinnu staircase, Stig and I are almost halfway to the top when we meet Oddveig Gikling Bjorna, who's a part of the local volunteers who made this staircase possible.

Oddveig, this waterfall, Vinnu, is very special because it's really one of the top in the world.

-Yes.

It's the sixth highest waterfall in the world.

And it's number one in Europe.

So it's very special.

-And now you have had these fantastic steps.

And what's the thrill?

Why do you go up here?

-I do it because I want to see this beautiful waterfall.

Yeah.

That's the main reason.

And it gives you good exercise as well.

-And these steps are fairly new?

-Fairly new.

The first one was built in 2022, and the last 300 steps came last year.

-Okay.

So it's, uh, 600-something?

-676.

-So then, Stig and I, we have to continue upwards.

-Yes.

You must.

-You have to go to the top.

-Yeah, you have to go to the top.

-And tell me a bit about this farm, because this is absolutely gorgeous.

-Yeah, it's a family farm through my husband.

And there have been living people here in for since the 1100s.

-Mm-hmm.

-So, it's been in his family since then.

-And then how long did you guys -- when did you take over?

-We have been living here for five years.

-Five years.

-Yeah.

-My gosh.

And you have kids?

-We have three kids, and we have cows and sheeps and dogs and horses.

-Yeah, so you've got it all.

-Yeah!

-You have got everything.

It's great!

And of course, you've got rhubarb.

-Yeah.

Of course.

-Maybe we can even pick a couple... -Yeah.

Of course.

-...I can take with me?

-Yeah.

Of course.

How many?

-Can we do four?

And is it possible to get some of that cordial?

-Yes.

Of course.

Here you go.

-Perfect.

Ah!

Thank you for inviting me here to your beautiful farm.

-Yeah.

-And I get to see this wonderful place... -You're welcome.

-...and everything that you're making.

And I wish you the best of luck with everything.

-I hope you enjoy it.

-Yeah, I will.

Thank you so much.

Take care.

-Bye-bye.

-For more inspiration, visit our website -- peopleofthenorth.net.

And as Oddveig says, Stig and I have to climb all the 600 steps to get to the top.

[ Both cheer ] Nevada's next stop is the mountain farm Renndolsetra, where she is met by farmer Eystein Opdol.

-[ Gasps ] -Vaer sa god.

-Wow!

Oh!

This looks amazing.

Tell me a little bit about what -- what you've brought me here.

-It's homemade yogurt... -Yeah.

-...from this place.

-And you've got some muesli here.

-Muesli and some black currant jam.

-Okay.

Did you make the jam?

-Yes.

-Yes.

Oh, this looks so good.

Can I try?

-Yeah.

Of course.

-Yeah!

I'm diving in.

Oh, my gosh.

First I'm gonna try it without anything.

Oh, it's so smooth.

It has very like, you know, sometimes when you get the tang and the acidity can be really high, but this is just, like, very, very light, very light tang, very smooth.

It's so fresh.

-We also produce sour cream.

And most of that goes actually for the cafe.

-And then you have butter and... -Butter, and normally, uh, you made the butter from the sour cream.

-Mm-hmm.

-Which is even better to store.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

-And also has that really good taste.

-I made butter today, actually.

-You did?

-Yes.

-So I get to bring it?

[ Both laugh ] You can't get any better than this.

The animals grazing freely... -Yeah.

-You're just... You're doing the milk production just over there in one of those old buildings.

-Yes.

Yes.

-Yeah.

So, tell me, what is your favorite thing about coming up to the seter?

-Actually, it's... Of course it's the beauty.

It's very scenic.

And I still... I'm not tired of it yet.

-Yeah.

-[ Laughs ] -I don't think you could be.

-It's also my working place.

We have all the sheep here.

They are in the mountains, and we bring up the cows.

Like, it's a -- it's a very traditional farm.

-I'm really looking forward to let Arne and Stig taste this and the rest of the products.

They're gonna be so sad that they missed this.

-Yes.

-I mean, they're having a fun adventure of their own.

-Yeah, yeah.

-But, I mean, come on.

Like, this... -They'd like it.

-Yeah, no, this is so nice.

-Nevada has really taken in the Norwegian seter life, and Eystein has come with some treats for her to take along.

-Here you go.

-Thank you.

-It's the sour cream.

-Yeah.

-And the yogurt.

And the butter from today.

-The butter.

The world's best butter.

-Yes.

-Yes.

This will be great.

Thank you so much for sharing everything about the seter.

It was so lovely to spend the day with you.

-Oh, it's been a pleasure having you.

-Thank you, Eystein.

-The steep and moist valleys around Sunndal is heaven for a keen botanist as Stig.

So much grows here, and the variety is quite unique.

Together with local expert Tor Helge Gravem, Stig is there to find herbs for a special dry martini.

-Tor Helge, just where we are standing now, we have a very rare, some very rare botanicals.

We have the wormwood and we have this Arctic poppy.

-Yes, the Arctic poppies are growing just around this, this area, and probably higher in the mountains.

But the wind and water have brought them here.

-Back in the days when the British nobilities were here, they were probably hiking this direction as well.

-They must have been, because there are -- we have drawings from especially the daughters of the fishermen.

We can see that they have been around here and painted these unique flowers.

They were still aware of this unique, rich flora.

-Probably more aware than the Norwegians.

-Ah.

Amazing.

-While Stig is on his journey, I'm traveling back in time at a local museum, where a play about a historic British lady who lived here is getting ready for tonight's premiere.

Tommy, you're a historian, and one very special feature here in Sunndal is all the memories and everything from the English era.

How was this English era in Sunndal?

-A lot of Britons came here in the 1850s, and many of them established new homes and built their own sports lodges.

It's a quite an interesting culture we have here.

-And every year, the big event in Sunndal is the play about Lady Arbuthnott.

-Yeah.

-And she is an actual historic figure.

-Yeah.

-She was here.

And what's this... What's the story about Lady Arbuthnott?

-She came here in 1866 with her third husband.

She ended up to move here permanently and build her own house and establish a farm.

So she really must have loved this place.

And she lived here, ups and downs in her life.

Very dramatic life.

-Dramatic play?

-Yeah.

-An important historic figure, then, for Sunndal.

-Yes.

She was an important figure.

But also that huge contrast -- this wealthy woman came here, had a lot of big parties at Elverhoi, was very involved in local, uh, in local communities.

But it didn't go so well.

-What happened?

-She went bankrupt.

-Wow.

-So, and she lost everything.

All her, uh... The farm and her house and all her things or belongings.

So she traveled to Europe, around Europe in the heydays... -In style.

-In style.

-But ended up losing everything.

-And she ended up then being a rather poor old lady in this valley.

But the locals obviously then took care of her in her last days.

-Yeah, and they didn't forget her, what she had done for them through the years.

So they delivered food and other things she needed.

-And how do you think this era has influenced Sunndal?

What does it mean today?

-Ah... Especially these sports lodges where you find many places in this area, I think that's the biggest influence we have today.

And this is open for tourists.

So you can just pop in and live in the English area for some days or... -Yeah, it's so extremely well preserved.

I mean, the furniture is there, the fishing rods.

Everything is in place.

So you really feel like you're traveling in time.

But also, the play, it involves a few professional actors, but then a lot of local people are in on this, and it's the big thing all summer.

-Yes.

Almost a thousand people have been working with this play through the years.

It's pretty amazing.

And this is a huge thing here locally in Sunndal, of course, and people from all over Norway is traveling, coming in here to see this play.

And I understand why.

It's a fantastic play.

-It is a fantastic play.

Come in here, live as a lord, and then see this play about a lady.

-Absolutely.

-That's a good reason for traveling to Sunndal.

A suitable rest on our busy adventures in Sunndal is a proper afternoon tea in the garden of Lady Arbuthnott's house, prepared by our very own Nevada.

-And we have some sveler, some cakes from the local bakery, our speciality here, which is this -- waffles, or vafler.

[ Conversing in Norwegian ] So, we have egg salad sandwiches, and we have the -- of course, the salmon.

And as a little treat from the seter, we have these really lovely yogurt cups.

And we also have this rhubarb cordial.

It's a really great way to celebrate our time here in Sunndal by connecting the history of the English to Norway and elevating the local ingredients.

-For more inspiration, visit our website -- peopleofthenorth.net.

Further down the river, I team up with Eirik Braein Gikling, who owns another of the historic British sports lodges, Phillipshaugen, and a very keen salmon fisher.

We are at the River Driva, the very famous salmon river where the English came 150 years ago.

And Eirik is going to show us how to fish the proper way.

And this is where you are fishing every year.

-Yeah.

-He looks like an Englishman, so he should probably catch like an Englishman.

The River Driva was the reason why the British came.

Already, 150 years ago, it was well known as an excellent salmon river.

The salmon here was known to be among the biggest.

Why do you think the English came and found this such a tempting salmon river?

-First of all, a lot of fish.

-[ Chuckles ] Good thing.

-But, you know, scenic views, spectacular nature, waterfalls, and very friendly people.

-It's all about patience.

Salmon fishing.

Waiting, waiting.

As we approach the evening, it's time for a cocktail.

Stig has planned an English-style dry martini, by the river, of course.

Stig, what are you going to make that's going to give a little hint of the English era here by the River Driva?

-I believe that when the English were here, they had a martini after a long day in the river.

So I'm going to make a martini, as always.

This has been been steeping in aquavit.

That's also... -That's the local.

-Yeah.

And since we doesn't have a big wine production in Norway, I decided to use local cider.

-Yeah, and this is just out the fjord.

-Yes.

-It's the pride of Norway at the moment.

-I would say so.

It's the... -The quality is fantastic.

-It's amazing.

[ Cork pops ] [ Laughs ] -Ooh!

-Okay.

And as you know, I like my martinis extremely dry.

So I could add some sweetness, but I don't think I need it.

-It has to be the first vermut ever made in Sunndal.

-Hey.

-Hi, Eirik.

-Just the man!

-Just in time.

-Just in time.

-Just in time.

-You look like an English lord.

-Maybe I am.

[ Laughter ] Who knows?

-So you should enjoy a dry martini, was our thought.

-Ah, looks amazing.

-Cheers, everyone.

-Cheers.

-Cheers.

-I would say this is dry.

-Oh, very dry.

Very flavor-ish.

-Mmm.

-It's amazing.

It's very fresh.

-Lovely, fresh bitterness.

Don't you think this is kind of like what they did?

A dry martini in between the salmon fishing?

-Yeah, I know they did.

Still do.

[ Laughter ] -Because it is a game of patience.

-You know, behind Elverhoi... -Yeah.

-...they have found thousands of bottles, digging down there.

So drinking was a part of it, and still is.

[ Laughter ] -But, Eirik, I know that you have a fantastic lodge built by an Englishman.

-That's correct.

-A long time ago.

We have a fantastic chef.

I thought maybe if we spend some more time here fishing... -Yeah.

-...we could send her and start preparing a nice meal for this evening.

-Sounds lovely.

-Does that sound good?

-That sounds very good.

-Great.

And you'll join us, I hope.

-Yeah, I really want to.

-Skal.

-Skal.

-For more inspiration, visit our website -- peopleofthenorth.net.

-I'm here at Phillipshaugen Lodge, and I'm going to be making a very special meal.

And I'm going to be doing a classic British dish -- shepherd's pie.

Now, traditionally, shepherd's pie would have lamb's meat, but because I have this really amazing local deer meat that I picked up earlier, we're going to be using this.

So it's going to be a venison shepherd's pie.

What we do is we make a lovely stew, and it'll be the deer meat, carrots, onion, garlic.

Put in a few flavors -- tomato paste, Worcestershire.

And then add some peas and some lovely local herbs that we also picked up.

And then I'm going to be using the potatoes that we also got earlier, and the romme, which is the sour cream, as well as butter.

That's going to go in to make mashed potatoes.

And what I'm going to do is make a casserole.

We'll put the stew at the bottom, and then we'll put the mashed potatoes on top.

We'll bake it for a little bit till it's nice and bubbly and brown.

And you have this beautiful casserole that's really simple to make.

And it's a great celebration of the English heritage that we've experienced all week here in Sunndal.

Good evening, everyone.

-Hi.

Good evening.

-Hello.

-So nice to have you for dinner.

All right, I've made you guys a little something to celebrate our time here in Sunndal.

This is a venison shepherd's pie.

Shepherd's pie usually has lamb, but because we had such wonderful deer meat that we got from the locals here, we are going to have that.

And it's full of lovely, lovely ingredients that we've sourced during our time here.

And it's all about community, which I've found very much here in Sunndal.

So this is a dish that you just, you know, we serve it as a family style and you can take it and help yourselves and... Yeah, dig in.

We can't be shy here.

Shall we say ladies first?

-Thank you.

-What's been your biggest thrill since you came?

-Mm.

I think just learning more about the food culture, meeting all the local producers who are making wonderful things using the natural environment, and...and just being in the nature.

And you do, you feel quite small because it's just towering above you in this valley and you've got these beautiful mountains.

And I think you really feel encompassed here.

A very magical place.

-Stig?

-I learned a lot about these unique flora as well in these mountains.

So, yeah, it's been great.

And I was so inspired when I made the martini.

-Yeah, that was a good martini.

[ Laughter ] And I think also the development using the power from the nature and creating a whole society with sustainable hydropower.

I think that's also gives at least perspective for the future.

So, cheers for Sunndal.

-Cheers for Sunndal.

-Cheers.

-Cheers.

-Cheers.

-That was a lovely shepherd's pie.

-Fantastic.

Sunndal's pie.

-It helps when you have really nice ingredients, you know.

-For more inspiration, visit our website -- peopleofthenorth.net.

-Funding for this series has been provided in part by the following.

-The Stavanger region -- adventurous shores, deep fjords, lively towns, and the iconic Preikestolen.

The Edge of Norway.

-Norwegian Alpinco -- connecting mountain spots, steep slopes, alpine villages, and outdoor activities all year round.

-In Sigdal, Norway, where mountains rise and forests whisper, Anne Line and Courtney create Norwegian gifts so you can bring a piece of Norway with you.

Nordic Box -- memories from Norway.

- Oh, take me home, take me home where I belong -VGAN Chocolate, Norwegian flavor.

- I can't take it anymore [ Jet engine roaring ]