Pati Jinich voice-over: If you've heard of Xochimilco in Mexico City, it's probably for the bustling trajineras, but there's a quieter side where still waters flow through floating gardens and ancient farming wisdom endures.
It's so beautiful!
Pati, voice-over: In a traditional smoke kitchen, Raul Jimenez cooks food rooted in memory.
His mission is to preserve not just recipes, but also the land that gives them life.
Beneath the surface of these waters lives the axolotl, an ancient creature now endangered.
Francisco Salvador and Omar Espinoza are determined to save it and the ecosystem it depends on.
[Playing shell] Pati, voice-over: That spirit of care finds its way to my kitchen with an overwhelmingly green dish.
Oh, beautiful.
Pati, voice-over: Green pipin with green vegetables, a dish that nourishes and reminds us of what's worth protecting.
Mm, mm, mm.
Pati, voice-over: And ancho chile rellenos.
Warm, smoky, and full of meaning.
This is the chubbiest taco that I've ever made.
[Laughs] Pati, voice-over: A quiet meal and a reminder that resilience often begins right at the table.
Whoo!
Mm.
[Birds chirping] Pati: Mm!
Mm-hmm.
This is so beautiful.
That's fabulous.
[Laughter] Mm.
Est delicioso.
[Birds chirping] [Bell rings] Announcer: "Pati's Mexican Table" is brought to you by... Announcer: La Costea.
Por sabor!
Announcer: From the flavors of the Caribbean to the tastes of Latin America, on the menu with Marriott Bonvoy.
Men: Avocados from Mexico [Acoustic guitar plays Avocados from Mexico jingle] Announcer: Over 40 years bringing authentic Latin American flavors to your table-- Tropical Cheese.
Eggland's Best, available in your grocer's egg aisle.
Visit egglandsbest.com.
[Acoustic guitar playing Nationwide jingle] [Birds chirping] [Water splashing] Pati, voice-over: Most mornings in Mexico City involve a frantic commute with 22 million people.
Mornings deep within Xochimilco are...different.
Sonia Tapia, an agricultural specialist, invited me to explore this living legacy.
[Speaking Spanish] [Speaking Spanish] Pati, voice-over: Here, life starts on the water.
Xochimilco is famous for its trajineras, the colorful, flower-adorned boats that float through the canals with music, food, and celebrations.
But beyond the crowded, touristy docks lies a quieter Xochimilco, where the ancient Chinampas, or floating gardens, have sustained life for centuries.
[Sonia speaking Spanish] Pati, voice-over: Chinampas are an extraordinary example of Aztec ingenuity.
Built by layering mud, lake sediment, and vegetation to create fertile farmland, these floating islands naturally irrigate and fertilize themselves, making them one of the most sustainable farming systems in the world.
But many fear this way of life is disappearing.
[Sonia speaking Spanish] Pati, voice-over: Walking through the Chinampas feels like stepping into a painting.
Rows of vibrant greens, fragrant herbs, and colorful flowers stretch across the land.
[Pati speaking Spanish] [Speaking Spanish] [Pati speaking Spanish] [Speaking Spanish] Wow.
Pati, voice-over: Farmers here still use methods passed down for over 2,000 years, like the chapn seedbed technique.
By shaping small pots from the rich canal mud, they create perfect nests for seedlings full of nutrients and moisture.
It's a process as much about care and mindfulness as it is about farming.
[Sonia speaking Spanish] Pati: Wow.
[Pati speaking Spanish] Wow.
[Pati speaking Spanish] No.
[Laughs] [Speaking Spanish] Ah.
[Both laugh] Pati: I'm obsessing about the no chile growing.
[Both laugh] Pati, voice-over: In recent decades, Chinampas fell into disrepair due to neglect, but a new generation of chefs has helped bring them back to life.
In a traditional smoke kitchen in one of the Chinampas, Raul Jimenez prepares a vibrant pipin verde made with pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, and tons of fresh herbs.
He uses it to spoon over seasoned pork and refried beans in a scrumptious taco.
[Raul speaking Spanish] [Speaking Spanish] [Pati speaking Spanish] [Raul speaking Spanish] [Sonia speaking Spanish] [Raul speaking Spanish] Pati: Mm-hmm-hmm.
[Sonia speaking Spanish] [Pati speaking Spanish] is like... [Speaking Spanish] [Raul and Pati laugh] It's like all the greens.
[Speaking Spanish] Mm.
I'm trying to bring in all the green from Xochimilco into my home, and living in this universe of green to make a green pipin.
I'm gonna get started by cooking and toasting some ingredients and I'm gonna tell you all about what a pipin is.
A pipin is basically a sauce that lives within the universe of the moles.
I'm adding 3 garlic cloves into my water that's already starting to boil and then I'm gonna add a pound of tomatillos, and I think this is one of the most beautiful ingredients in the universe because it is tart, it is clear, it shines through, and then we're adding mostly green things.
I'm using a jalapeo and a serrano, and I'm kind of thinking that I'm gonna add two jalapeos and one serrano, because I want it to have a lot of flavor.
Removing the stems.
We're gonna cook these.
And then here I have my skillet over medium low.
When you toast your pumpkin seeds, when they're cooked inside, they will begin making popping sounds.
[Seeds popping] OK, so now they're starting to toast.
[Seeds popping] This is ready.
You can see how much the pumpkin seeds toasted.
Maybe a little too much, but it will still give a taste of toasty, nutty.
It adds a heft.
It adds a depth.
I love Dr.
Seuss.
I'm gonna let that cool for a second before I grind it and I wanna toast 1/3 of a cup of sesame seeds.
OK, I'm gonna grind the pumpkin seeds.
[Whirring] See, you want to turn it into dust.
And now I'm going to add the toasted sesame seeds.
[Whirring] You want to cook the tomatillos until they're completely soft and mushy and--oh.
[Laughs] We're adding the chiles.
If I were to play with caution or cook with caution, I would add one chile at a time.
But I don't want to do that because I love it spicy.
And I love a challenge and I love a surprise.
So I'm adding all of my chiles at the same time, but don't follow my lead if you don't know how spicy you want it.
I'm gonna add a cup of water of my cooking liquid.
So I'm gonna add about a cup of cilantro.
The leaves and the upper part of the stems.
Parsley.
You can add fresh basil if you have it at home or tarragon or--make your pipin verde your own.
I'm adding, like, 10 leaves of epazote as well.
We're gonna add radish leaves.
And then 3 scallions.
Cutting the bottoms.
Adding the white light green parts.
Two teaspoons of salt.
OK.
We're gonna puree these until completely smooth.
[Whirring] [Whirring stops] Ta-da.
And just look.
Mm.
Mm.
It is so good!
And it hasn't even finished cooking.
It has that velvety, silky base.
This is so exquisite.
Now, this is the added step of mole sauces where you season them.
So I'm adding a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil.
I'm gonna wait for this oil to heat, and then I'm gonna turn on my water in the back again where I cook my tomatillos, and I'm gonna add a little bit of salt to it.
You don't want to add your sauce in your oil until the oil is really hot, because you wanna shock the sauce.
[Bubbling] I'm gonna add a little bit of chicken broth.
I have 3 cups here, but I'm gonna judge by eye.
Now I'm gonna let this cook until it thickens a little more, seasons a little more.
Those puddles of fat rise to the surface for 30 minutes or so, and as this continues cooking, I'm gonna take turns cooking these vegetables.
The chayote is a beautiful thing.
Quarter-inch slices.
And then little matchsticks.
That was a pound of a chayote.
This is a pound of green beans and this is a pound of zucchini.
And all these green vegetables just make me think about the greenness of Xochimilco and the Chinampas, which is such a treasure for Mexico.
The chayotes are ready.
Oh, these look so beautiful.
Look!
It should still have a crunch.
Mm.
Mm-hmm.
Mm.
Moving on.
Green beans.
The water's boiling.
Adding them in here.
And, again, it's gonna be, like, just a couple minutes.
Let's see what's happening with our sauce.
Oh, beautiful.
Look at this.
It's very important to scrape the bottom of the pot.
OK.
Taking the green beans out.
OK.
I'm gonna cook the zucchini directly into the mole sauce, then the green beans and the chayote.
Oh, that looks so pretty, too!
This is ready.
Serve garnished with the sliced radishes.
Scallions.
You can eat with white rice on the side and warm corn tortillas.
Mm, mm, mm.
This is unexpected Mexican.
This is take me back to the deep Mexico, Mexican, and this is the Mexico that you want to bring in your home Mexican.
Pati, voice-over: Xochimilco is a living reminder of the delicate balance between humans and nature.
Beneath the surface of these waters lives one of Mexico's most beloved and magical creatures--the axolotl.
Known as a Mexican walking fish, this incredible amphibian holds a special place in Mexico's culture.
Despite its charm, the axolotl faces a fight for survival.
[Speaking Spanish] [Speaking Spanish] Pati, voice-over: Francisco Salvador's family has lived in Xochimilco for generations.
He's made it his life's mission to protect the canals, their wildlife, and the fragile ecosystem that supports axolotls.
[Speaking Spanish] [Pati and Omar speaking Spanish] Pati, voice-over: Omar Espinoza, a dedicated conservationist, works next to Francisco to reintroduce axolotls back into their natural habitat.
For Omar, this isn't just about saving a species.
It's about preserving a part of Mexico's soul.
[Speaking Spanish] [Speaking Spanish] Pati, voice-over: These extraordinary creatures, with their wide smiles and their unique ability to regenerate limbs, are deeply tied to the mythology of Mexico.
Named after the Aztec god Xolotl, who transformed into an axolotl to escape sacrifice, they've long been a symbol of resilience and transformation.
Wow.
[Speaking Spanish] [Speaking Spanish] Wow.
[Pati speaking Spanish] [Omar speaking Spanish Pati, voice-over: Releasing an axolotl back into its home is a reminder of the responsibility we all share to protect them.
[Omar speaking Spanish] [Playing shell] Pati, voice-over: On the boat back to Francisco's home, he reflects on the beauty and challenges of life in Xochimilco.
[Francisco speaking Spanish] [Pati speaking Spanish] [Francisco speaking Spanish] Pati: Mm-hmm.
Pati, voice-over: At Francisco's home, his wife Iden shares a meal that feels like an extension of their love for this place.
[Francisco speaking Spanish] Pati: Hola.
Iden: Hola, Pati.
[Pati and Iden speaking Spanish] [Pati and Iden speaking Spanish] Pati, voice-over: She's prepared a feast that includes romeritos con mole, rice, and chile rellenos made with both poblano and ancho chiles.
The poblano is fresh and exuberant, while the ancho is smoky and bittersweet.
[Speaking Spanish] Pati: OK.
[Speaking Spanish] [Laughs] Mm.
Mm.
Mm-hmm.
Mm.
Whoo!
Pati, voice-over: Each bite from my plate feels like being welcomed into their family's legacy.
A legacy tied to the canals and the culture of Xochimilco.
Hola.
Ha ha ha!
Juju, we're making ancho chile chile rellenos.
I don't think I've ever tried ancho chile.
Juju, they're so good.
S?
I think you're gonna love them.
First of all, you know your chiles anchos.
The chile ancho is a chile poblano in its ripened and dried version, which completely changes the taste.
This is super important for you to know in life.
Mm-hmm.
When you want to stuff an ancho chile, you need to make sure that the ancho chiles that you get are pliable.
But to stuff them, we're gonna hydrate them.
Right.
I put this water to boil.
You've seen the piloncillo before.
S.
We need to chisel a little, like a tablespoon's worth.
Hold it.
Don't put your fingers in the way and just chisel little pieces.
It's just pure cane sugar juice... Yeah.
that's cooked on its own.
Why do we add it to rehydrate the chiles?
Ah.
Great question.
That's because I want the simmering liquid to have flavor and to impart it a little on the chile.
I think that's great.
That's good.
So I'm adding a teaspoon of salt, a tablespoon of white vinegar, and then we're adding the piloncillo.
OK, you want to throw in the chiles.
Yeah.
How long do we leave the chiles in the water?
Just a few minutes.
You just want to see them plump up.
While this comes to a boil, you can help me start mixing the coating for the batter.
Yeah.
We have flour.
We have dried oregano and allspice and half a teaspoon salt.
So look at this, Juju.
Did you see how they plumped up?
Yeah, like, more than twice the size, huh?
Exactly.
And you can see how the skin transformed.
It's like they're coming back to life.
OK, hold on, Juju, because we're gonna clean the chiles.
OK.
[Speaking Spanish] Once they are cool enough to handle one by one, make a slit down one side of the chile.
You get rid of the seeds.
So help me pat dry the ones we cleaned, and meanwhile, I'm gonna bring the oil here to heat.
We're gonna fry the chile.
OK.
You wanna grab that bowl?
Yeah.
Egg whites, egg yolks.
Yeah.
We need 5.
Oh.
Nice.
Good.
We can add a sprinkle of salt.
As you start beating the egg whites until they get stiff peaks.
Stiff peaks.
Yes.
I'm gonna start cutting the cheese.
I love using Panela cheese for the chile relleno.
I think that it's super delightful.
I love it.
This is brutal.
Stiff peaks.
[Laughs] So you can take a turn trying to stuff the chiles.
OK.
And then stuff it with enough filling for it to be chubby.
Yeah, that looks good.
Now, you can use a toothpick as if you were sewing, just like a seam.
That's perfect.
S.
But I want to see how you do the toothpick.
OK.
I can switch with you.
OK.
If you take the seams as if you were sewing.
You grab a toothpick and you go in and out.
Now we have to incorporate the yolks.
You can beat the yolks a little and then bring them in.
That's beautiful, Juju.
We need to prepare our assembly line.
OK.
OK.
Ready?
Baste it in the flour.
Coat it.
And here you just have to get messy.
So you go in and you want to get the entirety of the chile.
Juju, when you drop something in really hot oil... You wanna be slow.
you want to be so slow and determined and really close to the oil.
That's when people make mistakes and drop it from the top and it splashes.
I'm not taking it out with tongs.
Why?
Because you're gonna deflate it.
Yeah, because I'm gonna break the batter.
Gorgeous.
Gorgeous.
OK.
So now it's you.
OK.
Go all in.
How slow?
Please get slowly and super close.
Yeah.
Look at the bubbles, Juju!
Oh!
Oh, this is-- Perfect.
I think both are ready.
Now we eat!
OK.
So what are we putting in the taco?
This.
A tortilla.
Tortilla.
[Speaking Spanish] Gorgeous.
OK, more, yes.
Ha ha ha!
[Speaking Spanish] Ooh.
Juju, look at this!
Mm.
Oh, my gosh.
Cheers.
Mm.
The ancho chile is insanely good.
Mm.
This has so many levels of yum.
Fresh cream, salty cheese, buttery avocado, but then you bite into the chile.
I live for this, but mostly I live for this with you and your brothers and Papi.
This is like--my life is so full right now.
Mm.
Me, too.
Mm.
Yum.
I think we have a winner, Juju.
Pati: For recipes and information from this episode and more, visit patijinich.com and connect.
Find me on Facebook, TikTok, X, Instagram, and Pinterest @PatiJinich.
Announcer: "Pati's Mexican Table" is brought to you by... Announcer: La Costea.
Por sabor!
Announcer: From the flavors of the Caribbean to the tastes of Latin America, on the menu with Marriott Bonvoy.
Men: Avocados from Mexico [Acoustic guitar plays Avocados from Mexico jingle] Announcer: A tradition of authentic Latin flavors and family recipes.
Tropical Cheese.
Eggland's Best, available in your grocer's egg aisle.
Visit egglandsbest.com.
[Acoustic guitar playing Nationwide jingle] Announcer: Proud to support "Pati's Mexican Table" on public television.
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