Fit 2 Stitch

Peggy Sagers: It has been said, "Don't change to fit the fashion, change the fashion to fit you."

To do that, we need to understand ourselves.

Once at a sewing trade show, a woman said to me, "I really like your samples.

They all look alike."

By understanding the archetypes of fashion, we can create different looks within our wardrobe that show our chosen style.

We'll understand the rules and how easy it is to apply those rules to our sewing choices.

Today on "Fit 2 Stitch," an expert teaches us all about our fashion archetypes.

male announcer: "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors, Reliable Corporation, Plano Sewing Center, Elliott Berman Textiles, Bennos Buttons, and Clutch Nails.

Peggy: Over the years, as I've decided to sew for myself, I see a metamorphosis of change over the years.

And whenever I look back on my clothing, sometimes it's like, "Oh, I would never wear that now."

We change, so our clothing should somewhat reflect who we are.

There's not anyone who knows it more than Roxanne Carne.

Roxanne is here today because-- and I love having discussions with her because Roxanne just knows her stuff.

And she knows how important that personality in your clothing is and how reflective it needs to be of us.

So thank you, Roxanne, for being here today.

Roxanne Carne: So glad to be back.

Peggy: Whenever I say to Roxanne, "I just need ten minutes of your time," it turns into, like, an hour.

Always, because you just know so much.

So today, let's talk about archetypes.

And what are they?

Roxanne: So archetypes are really-- in relation to style and fashion, it really is a category of clothing, a style, an aesthetic.

And the reason why they're so important is that it helps you define what your signature style is.

And the beauty about fashion and style is that you can do a lot of this, a little bit of that, a dash of this.

It doesn't matter, there are no rules.

But I think it's really important to understand what really resonates with you, and also what is really functional for your lifestyle as well, into determining those styles that you are gonna go after again and again.

Peggy: I couldn't agree with you more, and yet it also helps you understand who you are, and it helps you dress appropriately for the event you're going to also.

Because I think that was what I was seeing.

Sometimes I would dress, and I'd go to an event, and all of a sudden, it was like, "This is not what I should have been--" Roxanne: Right, and you never wanna be in that feeling, and that's why--it's terrible, and it's a lot of pressure, anxiety.

But we don't need that.

But I think when you're building your wardrobe, it's really important to define which style archetype, or archetypes, really, again, align with where you are, not only right now, but maybe where you wanna be.

Peggy: So there's six archetypes?

Roxanne: Yeah, there are actually more than six, but when working with my lovely ladies, I kinda keep it to six because they cover what we usually see day-to-day.

Peggy: I agree with that.

It can get too complicated, but this-- the six really reels it in.

Roxanne: Absolutely.

Peggy: All right, so where do we start?

Roxanne: So we're gonna start with actually what I'm wearing right now, so this would be considered-- Peggy: It's gorgeous.

Roxanne: Thank you.

This would be considered-- Peggy: I could wear that.

Roxanne: Oh, absolutely.

This would look amazing on you.

Peggy: I could see myself in that.

Monochromatic--tell me, what's the title?

What is it?

Roxanne: Yeah, so this is classic, right?

So classic, it's just that: it withstands the test of time.

It looked good 40 years ago, it looks good today, and it's gonna look good in another 40 years.

Now, with the classic archetype, you have a lot of structure.

So you see with this jacket that I'm wearing, we've got a really defined waist, and we also have really fine-detailed tailoring.

So it's very structured, and you also have-- it's interesting because classic-- this classic archetype is rooted in neutral colors, like what I'm wearing.

But it is not limited to it.

So you can go bold.

Peggy: So, classic in structure, like the peplum?

That's really classic.

It's been around for forever.

And it just kind of remanifests itself.

Roxanne: It does.

And I was gonna just add that, when you think about staples for your wardrobe, like having that great jacket, that great-fitting denim, right?

Great trousers, a pencil skirt.

When you're building and rebuilding a wardrobe, those are core pieces that you can then build upon.

Peggy: Do you think it's fair that most people are classic?

Roxanne: You know, it's funny because when I think about all of-- the hundreds of ladies I worked with over the years, a lot of them, that is one of their core, or dominant, style archetypes.

Peggy: Okay, so-- we can have more than one?

Is that--we don't have to just choose one?

Roxanne: Yes, just remember: fashion is fun.

We do not have to be limited to just one.

Peggy: Okay, so we're gonna listen to our archetype clothing-- what we like, what we're drawn to.

But classic is something that everybody should really have.

Roxanne: I think so, especially when it comes to your core wardrobe.

Because you can definitely branch out from there, but, again, it's timeless.

It's elegant.

It's sophisticated.

It is never out of style.

Peggy: So I'm gonna just say that your structured shoulder, your peplum, your straight skirt, your pencil skirt, those are all things that make it classic.

Okay, so we have to look back for 30 years and see what's-- or 40 or 50 even, 'cause it's classic.

Roxanne: And when you think about, in the past, designers like Givenchy and Dior, that is classic at its root.

Peggy: It is.

I could not agree upon more.

But also, again, it helps me understand what I'm drawn to.

Roxanne: Right, and what you're actually seeing.

Like, I always like to say, "Out in the wild," where we're out and about.

Peggy: So I'm thinking-- I'm sitting here thinking if I'm going to an event, and I'm not sure if I want to play it-- classic is maybe a safety zone that I could stay in and be okay?

Roxanne: It is a very, very safe zone.

And the nice thing with classic, the classic archetype, is that it also transcends formality.

So you could dress very casually in a classic look, or you can take it really formal or be somewhere in between.

Peggy: It depends on the fabrics and how that you use-- Roxanne: Yeah, fabrics make a big difference.

Peggy: Okay, archetype number one.

What's next?

Roxanne: Okay, so next we're gonna be talking about the minimalist archetype.

Peggy: Minimalist?

Roxanne: Right here, minimalist.

So I like to call this, Peggy, classic's little cousin because they share a lot of the same traits, but the main difference between the minimalist and the classic archetype is, with the minimalist archetype, we are only living in neutrals.

So you're only gonna have colors that are your blacks, whites, grays, you know, just very muted, very muted.

You're not gonna have the-- Peggy: Those base colors.

Roxanne: Yeah, you're not gonna have bold colors here.

Peggy: So does--would it have anything to do with how the colors are put together?

Like, this is dramatic-- more dramatic.

Does that make a difference?

Roxanne: Not necessarily.

You know, what's interesting with the minimalist archetype is that a lot of times, you'll see a monochromatic look.

So what that means is that we have the same color all throughout, whether you're doing all black, all white, all gray, but you can, you know-- and this is a really interesting piece.

Peggy: This is beautiful.

Roxanne: It is beautiful, right?

So one of the things that defines the minimalist archetype is that you have very clean lines, right?

Clean lines, clean design.

And you have sometimes a little bit of asymmetry, you know, playing with the different lengths of, you know, the hemlines.

And then, in this instance, we have simple color blocking.

And the construction of it is very tailored.

And minimalist does not have to be tailored at all, but the designer here is drawing your eyes to the smallest part of the body, visually, yeah.

Peggy: So I like what you said.

Say that again about the cousin.

You say the-- Roxanne: Classic's little cousin.

Peggy: It's classic's little cousin, I like that.

It's a good way to remember it, just in general.

Roxanne: Absolutely, because they are very similar, 'cause classic does also have clean lines and clean design.

But with minimalist, it is-- you're not gonna have, again, the colors.

You're not necessarily gonna have the same types of shapes.

It is really very, very just more refined.

Peggy: I can just understand what you're saying--minimal.

I mean, I guess that's really where it gets its name.

It's minimal.

They're not adding lots of extras that would go to something else.

Roxanne: Exactly, and I don't know if you remember, a few years back, you know, the capsule wardrobes were all the rage.

Capsule wardrobes, a lot of them were built on minimalist pieces that you can easily just mix and match because they're within that, again, that neutral color family.

And when you're just building out, you get multiples of different, you know, types.

Peggy: This is so much better than the capsule, though.

Same thing, but boy, it's amazing how you can just take it up a notch with, you know, what else you wear.

All right, so what do we have next?

Roxanne: All right, let's go over to our edgy archetype right now.

Peggy: All right, edgy, I like that.

I don't know why, it just sounds fun.

Roxanne: Well, this is a fun archetype, and the reason is, is because we are being daring.

We're being bold.

We are playing with textures such as leather and studs, denim.

And this is for the lady that has an attitude, that's got a little bit of punk and rock in her, and really, you know, wants to show it.

Peggy: And, you know, I think that it's never wrong to wear any of them.

It's just you wanna be at the right event with the right thing.

Roxanne: Oh, yeah.

So this is--the trickiness with this archetype is you-- yes, you have to wear it at the right occasion.

But I will say for those of us that are in the fashion industry, this is a dominant archetype because we can get away with it.

Peggy: Oh, that's an interesting statement.

Roxanne: Because, you know, when you think about-- if you think about just edginess in terms of geography, what comes to mind?

Streets of New York, London, Berlin, right?

Peggy: They're more the fashion centers.

Roxanne: Yeah, absolutely--and why?

Because you can get away with it.

Peggy: Okay.

Roxanne: Right?

Peggy: So if I'm edgy, but I never go outside my house, I need to find an event first.

Roxanne: Yes, find an event, yes.

Peggy: We gotta get all these archetypes out.

It doesn't do any good to hold them inside.

And I think it really helps us select fabric and select pattern when we're sewing for ourselves.

Because there's so many times I've selected something and then it hasn't turned out the way I wanted, but I think it's because I didn't have the right archetype.

I think it's that simple.

I just love this.

Roxanne: It's so fun.

And, you know, here we have a little bit of a sexy moment with one shoulder exposed, but then we've got a play on the different textures.

Peggy: It's edgy.

Roxanne: It's edgy from top to bottom.

Peggy: I mean, the words are so appropriate.

But you're gonna talk to us a little bit about the accessories and how they go together.

Roxanne: Absolutely.

Peggy: So what's after edgy?

Roxanne: Okay, so next we've got Bohemian, yeah.

Peggy: Bohemian.

Roxanne: So Boho.

Peggy: Abigail's boho, huh?

Roxanne: This archetype right here is the first one we're talking about today that is not as structured as the others.

So here, this is what I like to call we're channeling Stevie Nicks, for example.

It's flowy, there's no restrictions.

I find my ladies that gravitate to this as a dominant archetype, Peggy, are creatives, so they're-- Peggy: As a dominant archetype.

Roxanne: Yeah.

Peggy: Okay, so that's important, then, to recognize which one is kind of most-- which one comes to you first.

Roxanne: Absolutely, what speaks to you.

Peggy: Because this one comes to me first.

Roxanne: So you're Boho at heart.

Peggy: I hate to admit that, but this does.

I just love it.

I love the whole feel.

Roxanne: And as you can see, you know, the dress that Abigail has on, it's fun and flowy.

And we've got some nice embroidery moments going on here.

You know, you'll often see in this archetype a lot of fringe.

You'll see beautiful details like eyelets.

And also this archetype is one that really celebrates vintage pieces as well.

And so we have, like, a fun, floppy hat.

You can do a fun floppy hat moment.

And then here for jewelry, you can totally stack the jewelry.

So you'll see lots of layering in Boho as well.

Peggy: So I have to ask: do you think it has any relation to age?

Roxanne: Oh, that's a good question.

I find, generally speaking, younger ladies tend to play more in the Boho space.

But I will tell you, I think geography actually kinda dictates it because I see a lot of Boho on the West Coast.

So in Southern California, this is the name of the game right here.

And it's warm there all the time.

It's--the vibe in L.A. is a lot more lax.

So you do see a lot of Boho moments.

But interestingly enough, here in Texas, we see Boho with a twist, so we'll see Boho with-- Abigail's got on some cute cowboy boots, right?

You've got the cowboy hat to go with it.

So you can really spice it up and make it your own.

Peggy: I love it.

I just think it's adorable.

You look terrific.

Young and cute and all kinds of things.

Thank you, Abigail.

Abigail: Thank you.

Peggy: All right, so what comes next?

Roxanne: So next is you!

Peggy: It's me.

Roxanne dressed me today.

Roxanne: This is eclectic, okay?

So eclectic is also a really, really fun archetype because this is really get-- you know, where you get to show your personality.

I like to say that this archetype, Peggy, is raiding Grandma's closet and putting everything together.

And what that means-- and I don't mean from an age standpoint now, but I mean-- Peggy: No, no, no, I understand.

It's just so interesting because it's the category for me-- as I went through all the categories-- that I didn't feel like belonged to me, or I didn't feel comfortable with it.

Roxanne: So that's a really good point.

I will say this archetype is generally the most polarizing.

People either love it or they hate it, or, at the very least, maybe can appreciate it, but to say, "That's not for me."

However, with this archetype, we're--we have a lot going on.

We're not only mixing different colors.

We're also mixing different patterns, playing with different textures, also maybe mixing different styles, and sometimes even different eras.

Peggy: It's interesting 'cause you put it together, but I get a little nervous, and I want to show another.

I want to show this as well, because this is eclectic.

Roxanne: That is eclectic all the way.

And the reason is, you know, we've got a nice base with the florals right in the center in the bodice here.

Peggy: So this is Dolce & Gabbana.

Roxanne: This is Dolce & Gabbana, right?

Peggy: And they put these fabrics together.

Roxanne: Yeah, and so the florals are their signature, right, so we can recognize it's them.

But then when we bring in elements of the polka dot right here on the scarf, as well as the sleeve, and then these striped details separating the floral from the polka dot.

And then on the back, if we see here, we're actually kinda combining the floral with the polka dot.

Peggy: It's amazing.

I mean, it's beautiful.

And, again, I would not recognize this at the beginning as to what I like, but I love this.

Roxanne: So there's a little streak of eclectic.

Peggy: And there's a denial in me, I think.

You know, or something that-- something about the permission that I'm not allowed to do or-- it's interesting.

But you do have to reflect a little bit on your personality inside to get to that outside garment, I think.

Roxanne: And that's so important because, look, if you put on an outfit or a particular archetype that is not you, oh my gosh, you will know it, and people will know it, it will show.

Peggy: I agree.

Roxanne: You'll feel like an imposter.

Don't push yourself out-- don't ever wear anything that makes you feel uncomfortable.

It's okay to be in a safe zone.

You can, you know, experiment a little bit here and there, but don't pull on, you know, something that's completely out of your zone, 'cause you're gonna feel like you're wearing a costume.

Peggy: Yeah, I think there's many times where-- I want to talk about this one.

I think there's many times where I'll go somewhere-- not so much anymore but in the past-- where I've completely realized that I missed the party.

I just missed it.

And yet--and I have a tendency in those occasions to look at someone who did it just right and try to figure out why they got it right and why I didn't.

And that's an interesting perspective.

Roxanne: It is, and I like what you just said especially because, again, fashion is fun.

There's so many different styles out there.

We have eyes, let's use them.

Let's see what other people are wearing.

Let's get inspiration, and perhaps, "Okay, maybe I can do that the next time."

Peggy: I love that.

Okay, so talk to me about this.

Roxanne: This archetype, yeah.

Peggy: Pronounce this for me.

Roxanne: Ah, so this is Adidas.

[Addy-das] Peggy: Okay, so those of us who say Adidas [A-did-as] need to go home and study French or something.

Say it again.

Roxanne: Adidas.

Peggy: Adidas, okay, so this is-- Roxanne: That's the correct way to say it.

Peggy: Adidas workout suit.

Roxanne: Yeah, so can you guess which archetype this is?

Peggy: I'm gonna say street.

It would have to--that's all that we've got left, right?

Roxanne: Yep, this is street.

Peggy: We've got-- let's go through them.

Roxanne: We've got classic, minimalist, edgy, boho.

Roxanne: Eclectic.

both: And street.

Peggy: And tell me what street is.

Roxanne: So street is a fairly new archetype.

When I say new, as in the past ten to fifteen years, okay, in the timeline of fashion.

And it is inspired from urban looks that incorporate, for example, hip-hop, sports, and just kind of, you know, just being you.

And you see a lot of sportswear.

That's where we have this Adidas tracksuit in street.

But it's very interesting 'cause, you know, normally-- you know, back in the day, sportswear was kind of, like, white and black and maybe gray.

But here, we've got this really nice black, but then the highlight is this soft pink, yeah.

And the beauty about street is that, again, there are no rules.

You put the look together.

As long as you go out and rock it with confidence, that's all you need.

And one also interesting aspect about the street look is where we can also play with a little bit of a high-low.

Do you know what I mean when I'm saying high-low?

Peggy: Well, I do--I think so, but I want you to kind of-- because I think that is a really common thing today that's so acceptable, but we don't understand why.

So will you kind of go into that a little bit more?

Roxanne: Yeah, so the high-low look is when you have one aspect of the outfit that perhaps is very casual or vintage.

Peggy: So take shorts.

Roxanne: Shorts, for example, right?

But then you put on a really glam piece, whether it's a top to go with it or even an accessory.

Peggy: What about, like, a jacket?

Roxanne: Yeah, if you did a really-- Peggy: Would that be street if I did jacket with shorts?

Roxanne: Oh, completely, totally.

Peggy: Because I'm noticing these high-end designers, and they're very expensive, are putting shorts with blazers, and I'm thinking, "Who wears this, and where did they go?"

Roxanne: Well, those are the new suits.

Now, what's interesting is that that can be classic, but depending on the textile, right, the accessories, you can make it a street look.

Peggy: What were you gonna say with that high-low concept?

Is that dressy to casual?

Roxanne: Yeah, so you're pairing two elements that are not likely to go together, but one being low.

When I say low, more kind of casual, you know, that you-- you know, you'd wear it with a pair of jeans or something like that, like a vintage T-shirt or vintage graphic tee.

But then you put it on with, like, a sequin skirt.

Peggy: It seems to me that would need more experience to do it well than any of the others.

Is that a fair statement?

Roxanne: Yeah, I would say, honestly, the eclectic archetype and street, you really have to kind of know a little bit more about what appeals to you to be able to pull it off.

Peggy: So practice going places by yourself in street so no one--you won't mess up the wedding or whatever else?

Don't go to the wedding?

Okay, I like that.

So high-low-- think of casual and dressy and putting them together.

It is a fun space because I've seen a lot of stuff-- I hate to say this-- personally that you do, that's high-low, and you do it really well.

Roxanne: Well, thank you.

Peggy: And so sometimes I think I should take notes on how and why this goes together.

But every time I see you, I hate to say, "Now, why does this work?"

Or, you know, "Why doesn't this work?"

Roxanne: Well, I wanna show-- let's show an example of how we have, like, a high-low moment with this outfit, right?

Peggy: Are you ready for that?

You're really gonna expose your true self here.

Roxanne: Okay, so this Adidas tracksuit that I have, that I love, whenever I wear it, I always pair it with these sparkly Balenciaga slides.

Peggy: And, you know, I mean, I would never put that together.

I would put together-- now, you've put it together because what you said earlier, I think, makes a big difference, and you said, "When you do it, you have to do it with confidence."

Roxanne: With confidence, right.

And it--and again, you're mixing elements that one wouldn't normally put together.

Because when you see these shoes, you think, "Oh," a really, like, elevated or more cocktail to formal, you know, depending on what you wear as a dress.

But to put this with a tracksuit, you know, it's unexpected, but this is definitely a street look.

Peggy: And I'm allowed to do that?

Roxanne: Yes.

Peggy: Okay, it's a street look.

Okay, I like that.

It's a street look.

Okay, talk to us just about shoes that we have here.

Roxanne: Yeah, so I brought these because I think it's important to know that you can play with different archetypes that aren't--with aspects that are not necessarily clothing.

You know, one of the easiest ways to experiment is to bring in accessories.

So these are a pair of lovely-- these are by Fendi Shoes.

And as you can see here, it's got a very sculptural heel.

Peggy: It's beautiful.

Roxanne: It's actually an upside-down F, right?

And it's a statement, right?

This is something I would say would be more eclectic.

Peggy: It would be.

Roxanne: But you could pair it with something classic.

I could wear these sandals with this outfit and change the look.

Peggy: So you can-- I wanna hear that-- make sure I heard that right.

You can pair accessories that are eclectic with a classic?

Roxanne: Yes.

Peggy: And you don't have to go classic-classic with accessories?

Roxanne: You do not have to-- or classic plus anything.

One of my favorite things to do-- so my dominant archetypes are going to be classic, minimalist, and edgy.

Those are where I live.

I dabble a little, as you can see, in some other spaces, but those are my core.

And something that I like to do-- Peggy: Those are some awfully polar opposites, don't they, classic and edgy?

Roxanne: Yes, they are.

Peggy: Okay, so that's one-- Roxanne one and Roxanne two.

Roxanne: Exactly, I'm from New York, so it's in my blood, but what I love to do, Peggy, is I love to take a classic look, so say I'm wearing a really nice tailored black suit or dress that would be, again, more classic in nature, very, you know, calm, sophisticated, clean lines.

And then I'll take my studded, spiky, d'Orsay, edgy shoes, and pair with that to change the look up.

Peggy: You know, I can see that because sometimes if you put edgy and edgy, it's just too-- it's over the edge.

Roxanne: Right?

Over the edge.

Peggy: You go over the cliff.

Roxanne: Yeah.

Peggy: But I could really see where something like this could be really perfect with that classic, just to turn it up a little bit.

Roxanne: You're turning it up, and then you're also making a statement without-- this is why I say accessories are such a great way to play with different style archetypes or mix it because this would be something that people would talk about and remember you by, right?

Peggy: Yes, so to mix that edgy with something would be great.

Talk to me just quickly about this handbag.

Roxanne: Oh, yeah, this chunky handbag, I brought it because I think this is a good example of Boho.

You remember I mentioned with Boho sometimes you have fringe?

Peggy: I actually kind of thought to myself what it would be.

Roxanne: Yeah.

So we have a quilted look.

It's nice and big and chunky.

You know, with the outfit that Abigail had on, you could totally see her just kind of throwing it over her shoulder, running errands.

So, again, accessories are a great way to play up these different archetypes.

Peggy: Roxanne, thank you so much.

I really appreciate you being here.

You always look great.

And you always have so much information for us, so thank you.

Roxanne: That was so fun.

Thank you for having me.

Peggy: Thank you.

Oh, my goodness gracious.

Many of us wonder when thinking of buying a sewing machine, "Do we need a serger?

And what does it do?

Do I have to have it?"

Next time on "Fit 2 Stitch," we have a great guest who will show us serger projects that may cause us to want that serger-- and the sooner the better.

Join me next time.

announcer: "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors, Reliable Corporation, Plano Sewing Center, Elliott Berman Textiles, Bennos Buttons, and Clutch Nails.

To order a four DVD set of "Fit 2 Stitch" series 13, please visit our website at fit2stitch.com.