Curious Traveler

It's the home to Leopold Bloom, Molly Malone, and a thirsty fella named Arthur Guinness. Cead mile failte to Dublin! Remember when you were a child and all you asked was why why why? Well I never quite outgrew that whole quest for knowledge phase.

In fact I've made a career out of asking who, what, when, where, why, and how, as an arts and travel journalist for the past 20 years. So if I have an insatiable curiosity about the exciting, inspiring, beautiful world of art, architecture and hidden history all around us, I bet you do too. This isn't your typical what to do on a vacation travel show, oh no! This is your all access pass to a deeper understanding of the world's great art and architecture, people and places, history and how did they do that.

So come a long on our educational journey, our field trip for grown ups who have never quite grown up and learn on Curious Traveler. (easy guitar music) From castles to cathedrals to Celtic heritage, and of course a couple of pints of Guinness to wash it all down, here's what I'm curious about in Dublin, Ireland. What's so important about a black pool? Why is an ancient well near this cathedral so important?

Who was Maewyn Succat and why do we celebrate him with green beer? And what do shamrocks and snakes have to do with it? (hissing) How does this symbol tell the history of Ireland's religious past? Why is this library so long and so high?

What's so important about this harp, this document, and this glorious book? What is so important about this post office? And this city park? What do the style of these town homes have to do with the number of people living inside them?

And finally what does Dublin's favorite brew have to do with this church, this university, and this urban oasis? Who, what, where, why, when, and how? So much to be curious about here in Dublin. (upbeat Gaelic music) Before it was the home of Irish pride, Irish literary greats, and of course Irish pubs, Ireland and Dublin was home to the Celts.

Their influence on Irish culture can be still felt today. In the Gaelic language, Celtic symbols, and the Irish spirit. (crowd singing) But believe it or not it is not the Celts who are credited with actually founding Dublin. It was the Vikings, in the eight or ninth century.

Even though they came over to Ireland to raid the place. Hey whatcha gonna do? Those Vikings settled near a lake named Black Pool. The Vikings called it Dyflin, which in Gaelic is pronounced Dubhlinn.

Next we fast forward to much more modern history. In the 18th and 19th centuries, things were booming here in Dublin. The Custom House, Parliament House, and Royal Exchange were all built. And Dublin's iconic Guinness stout was invented.

I mean what more could you want? Well how about lovely little bridge built over the river Liffey, built during those prosperous times. This is the beautiful Ha'penny Bridge, built around 1816. It's called the Ha'penny because for 100 years pedestrians would have to pay a half penny toll to cross the bridge.

There was one stipulation to this toll, though. Apparently if any pedestrian complained about having to pay a half penny the bridge would be torn down. Well apparently nobody complained. The Ha'penny Bridge is a lovely reminder of Dublin in days gone by.

When you cross it you will see the charming Ha'penny Bridge Inn, established in 1732. And you will officially enter Dublin's Temple Bar Historic District. Which is neither a temple nor a bar but is full of colorful pubs dripping with flowers. A tradition that possibly dates back to ancient Roman times, when vines or shrubs were hoisted high above a pub to tell travelers from afar that the ale was ready.

And on the side of one of those pubs, the vibrant Dame Tavern, you will see this giant wall sized proclamation commemorating one of the most pivotal events in Irish history, which we will learn about soon. But first we go back to the Middle Ages, to visit a church dedicated to a man who according to legend loved three leafed clovers by really didn't care for snakes. Built in the 13th century to honor the patron saint of Ireland, it is the largest church in the entire country. And it's one of only a few medieval buildings still left standing in Dublin, St.

Patrick's Cathedral. (Monks singing) Well there's been a church on this site since probably around 450 AD. Probably a timber church for centuries. We know by the ninth century there was a small stone church here.

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Guide

And that small stone church was upgraded to this glorious cathedral in the 13th century. So why is there a cathedral dedicated to St. Patrick on this particular spot? Well it isn't just because the Irish love St.

Patrick's Day. Patrick is said to have baptized people into the Christian family on this site using water from the well. The well was probably a spring from the river Poddle which flowed underneath the cathedral until 130 years ago. -

Guide

And this is the spot where it is believed that St. Patrick preformed those baptisms, from that ancient river and ancient well. Later the area surrounding it was considered sacred. So it was used as a Christian cemetery.

Miraculously some of those gravestones dating back between the ninth and 11th century still exist today. This particular one was found exactly on the site of the well that St. Patrick was reputin' to have used to baptize people into the Christian family. So it's quite special to us.

In a way it's our foundation stone. Of the six of them, there's 32 of them in Dublin, and six of those are in this building now. (monks harmonizing) -

Guide

Next if you look closely at the gravestone there's an interesting symbol that is associated with St. Patrick. And it's a simple one, just a cross and a circle. When you combine them both you get the beautiful Celtic Cross.

The cross of course symbolizing Christianity and the circle in the middle representing the sun which the Celt's worshiped. But what does this have to do with St. Patrick? Well one legend says he was the one to create the Celtic Cross.

But there are many, many other wonderful theories about what the Celtic Cross symbolizes. The four quadrants could symbolize the four stages of the day, or the four directions, or the four elements. And then there is one more theory that has nothing to do with symbols at all. Certainly with standing crosses there may have been a practical purpose and them supporting the arms of the cross.

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Guide

Yup it's possible that the circle was added around the cross simply to hold it up. (down scale trumpet sounds) (monk's harmonizing) -

Guide

But before we leave St. Patrick's Cathedral there's one more curious bit of Dublin history to share. The other key dates in terms of the building is by the 1860's it had fallen into a poor state of repair. So it was restored at that time by the Guinness Family, Benjamin Lee Guinness.

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Guide

That's right the name Guinness means so much more than a brew here in Dublin. The Guinness family is known for a six generation legacy of philanthropy, including housing for the poor, donations to colleges and universities including Trinity College Dublin. And perhaps most memorably contributions to Dublin's beloved St. Patrick's Cathedral.

These window's here are dedicated to somebody that has something to do with beer? Yes, another Guinness connection. So Benjamin Lee Guinness had a daughter, Annie Lee and she was renowned for her charitable works and she's remembered with a line of scripture in this window appropriate enough for a member of the Guinness family. I was thirsty and ye gave me drink.

That is so appropriate, so appropriate. (laughs) (folksy fiddle music) Next as Ireland is known as the land of saints and scholars, we go from church to school. So from Holy Cathedral to Holy Book we travel to Trinity College the home of a precious Irish manuscript and more curiosities. (elegant violin music) Trinity College was established in 1592 on the site of a former monastery.

It was built in part to compete with England, who of course already had Oxford and Cambridge. So in way it was Dublin's way to establish itself as it's own prestigious and smart city. Trinity College Dublin is Ireland's oldest university and one of the seven ancient universities of Britain and Ireland. When it was founded it lay outside the walled city of Dublin.

Hard to believe today with bustling Dublin bursting onto it's campus everyday. The college was built on the site of the All Hallow's Prayery. It is believed that this iconic bell tower, the Campanile stands at the center of where that old monastery once stood. The Campanile was built in 1853 with four figures at it's base, representing divinity, science, medicine, and law.

Over the arches are four faces depicting Homer, Socrates, Plato, and Demosthenes representing the liberal arts. But you'll notice something curious about the Campanile. No Students are walking underneath it. Why?

Because of the superstition that says, "If the bell tolls as you walk under it you will fail your exams." But Trinity College's most prized possession is much much older than that. It is extremely rare, more than a 1000 years old. And is guarded safely in a curiously long room. This is the famous and glorious Long Room added to the university in the 1700's not only is it more than 200 feet long it also happens to be sky high.

Why? Well because they kept adding books. Built between 1712 and 1732 the Long Room Library holds 200,000 books. It's reputedly the longest single library chamber in the world.

Now there are bigger libraries, but as a one chambered library it's apparently the longest. -

Guide

All capped off with that lovely barrel vaulted ceiling. Originally it had in fact a flat plaster roof up here, because when it opened there was only books on this level. Okay. But once copyright kicked in by 1850 they had a problem, because the level we're standing on was completely full.

So around 1860 they raised the roof. They put this barrel vaulted ceiling in and they fill the galleries upstairs full of books. -

Guide

And only the oldest and most rare books in the library's collection are stored here in the Long Room. So we've a page from the Gutenberg Bible printed in 1453 54 and why we've only one page is 'cause medieval people recycled and we found it in the backing of a book and released it. -

Guide

And it's not just precious books here but a very musical symbol of Ireland too. The Irish Harp, also known as the Celtic Harp, the Gaelic Harp, and the Brian Boru Harp after the 11th century High King of Ireland. The Trinity College Harp is believed to be the oldest harp in Ireland. And the national harp symbol on Ireland's Coat of Arms, the Irish coin, the Irish passport, and entire Dublin bridge, even Ireland's most famous brew are all based on this very harp.

But why is the harp a symbol of Ireland? The Gaelic harp dates back to ancient times, when harpists were a symbol of Irish royalty because King's had harpists in their court. Later in the Middle Ages the Gaelic harp was banned by the English crown. So just like the color green the Irish harp became a symbol of resistance and Irish pride.

(triumphant music) But even the national symbol of Ireland isn't as rare or as old as another treasure found here in the Long Room. The Book of Kells is an incredibly rare manuscript of the four gospels that historians believe was created sometime around 750 to 800 AD. The art work is so vibrant, and so intricate, and so beautiful it has been said it was created by angels and not by men. Although we have a pretty good hunch those angels got a little help from some incredibly talented Irish monks.

Historians believe that the Book of Kells was written and painted by a group on monks on the remote Island of Iona in Scotland. So if it was created on the Island of Iona why isn't it called the Book of Iona? Because those darn Vikings kept invading Scotland. So when the monks fled to Ireland they brought their manuscripts and settled at their sister monastery in Kells, Ireland.

Later on the book was lost and much much later the Book of Kells was rediscovered and was eventually brought here to Trinity College around 1661 and has been here every since. And it's fame is from the artwork. It's more beautiful, more sophisticated, than anything else to survive in manuscript form from this period. -

Guide

There's some Celtic imagery in there as well? Yes, it's the standard art style of the time. So it's sorta this Greek Manor Byzantine style with Irish firsts. A lot of that interlacing would be typical of Celtic art.

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Guide

It is believed that each page took a month to complete and there is one page that stands out above the rest. From the Gospel of St. Matthew there's what we call the Chi Rho or Keyro page which is the Greek initial's for Jesus Christ. But there lovely little images.

I think some of the smaller images within the art works is quite unique. For instance there's a little otter holding the fish in his mouth which is an early symbol of Christianity, Jesus Christ the fisher of men. (monks harmonizing) -

Guide

But the Book of Kells is more than just a treasured work of art. It is a unique sort of Irish pride and identity. To know the Book of Kells is to know the Irish. And to know the Irish is to know the Book of Kells.

I suppose it brings together this whole notion of Ireland being the land of saints and scholars. Because the scholars who did the book and when Christianity came to Ireland one of the byproducts of Christianity was the art of writing. And writing and story telling, and a lot of what's in the Book of Kells is story telling, really is part of our culture. And I suppose it's brought to life in the Book of Kells.

(harp music) -

Guide

So in Trinity College's Long Room we have the Gaelic Harp, the Book of Kells, and one more very important piece of Irish history. An original copy of the Proclamation of the Irish Republic. (bold trumpets playing) The Proclamation of the Irish Republic is a hugely important document to the history of Ireland and to the Irish people. You'll see it proudly displayed all over Dublin, from little framed ones in dusty pubs, to huge mural sized ones throughout the city, to more originals in libraries and Dublin's General Post Office.

Which happens to be a very important location in the history of Irish independence. This is the historic GPO or General Post Office. The site of the Easter Rising of 1916 where the Irish volunteers gathered and read the Proclamation of the Irish Republic. Ireland had been under British rule for centuries and the Easter Rising of 1916 marked the beginning of Irish independence.

Which eventually lead to the Independent Irish Free State in 1922 and the Republic of Ireland in 1949. While the Proclamation was being read at the General Post Office here at St. Steven's Green the Irish Citizens Army which proudly included women tried to fight off the well trained British soldiers. The only problem was that the Irish Citizen Army although brave was a tiny group of private citizens.

You can still see the scars of the battle at St. Steven's Green in these bullet holes on the buildings surrounding the park. The Easter Rising only lasted six days when the Irish ultimately surrendered. (birds chirping) It's hard to image that turbulent past as you stroll through this beautiful park today.

St. Steven's Green is Dublin's most popular park with a curious history. It wasn't open to the public until 1880. -

Trevor

Prior to that you needed a key to get in. And that key was only available to residents of this square. And so it was thanks to the generosity of Arthur Guinness, the third Arthur Guinness Lord Ardilaun, that we have this extraordinary park available to us. -

Guide

And most of those key holders lived here in these gorgeous Georgian townhouses surrounding the green. And curiously all that violence between the Irish and the English is intertwined with these stately homes. It's important to remember that this is the hayday of Dublin architecturally. We're talking about the 18th century.

So from 1714 four George's reigned on the British throne. And they lend their name to this very distinctive style of architecture that is known as Georgian Architecture. -

Guide

Georgian Architecture is known by it's symmetry and clean lines. Usually you will see Greek and Roman classical elements like columns and triangular pediments over the door. But as lovely as these works of art are, these Georgian mansions were not always so adored here in Dublin. For many years it has to be said that these beautiful buildings were neglected by the Irish.

After independence they became synonymous with the old order the ancion regime and as such they were neglected. And in some cases they were actively maligned. -

Guide

Another reason these goregous mansions were in not so great shape for a time may surprise you. Originally lived in by Dublin's elite, these stately mansions later became tenement housing for the poorest of Dublin by the early 20th century. In one case it is documented that 104 people all lived in a single house. But fast forward to happier times today and these mansions have come full circle and have been restored to their original glorious Georgian state.

And at last the Irish are becoming proud of this extraordinary architecture. -

Guide

And the best part neither of the modern day Dublin residents or Dublin visitors need a key to enjoy beautiful St. Steven's Green in the heart of Dublin. (low key piano music) But before we leave darling Dublin, there is one more curiosity to explore. Around many parts of the world including the United States there is a peculiar tradition of dressing in green on March 17th.

Why? Well for the answer to that we go back to St. Patrick's Cathedral for the history of Ireland's favorite patron saint. (relaxing fiddle music) So who was St.

Patrick and why is he so integral not just to Ireland's religious history but to Irish culture overall? Well there are many legends surrounding the life of St. Patrick but here's what most historians believe. St.

Patrick was a Christian missionary who traveled around Ireland sometime in the fifth century AD. While he was not the very first missionary here he is considered to be the founder of Christianity in Ireland. But before changing the history of Ireland forever St. Patrick had some crazy adventures and those adventures are told in this beautiful window.

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Priest

Starting down at the bottom left hand corner it shows Patrick being taken as a captive from his home. His escape to a ship and then coming back to Ireland to spread the Christian message. -

Guide

Now here's the curious part. St. Patrick the most popular patron saint of Ireland was neither Irish nor technically a saint and he wasn't even named Patrick. (down scale trumpet music) That's right, it is believed that St.

Patrick was born in Roman Britain and his name was Maewyn Succat. Once Maewyn Succat became a priest he chose the name Patricius or Patrick because in latin Pater loosely means father figure. And as far as his sainthood? Well St.

Patrick was never actually formally canonized by the Catholic Church, but no matter it is his missionary work throughout Ireland that he is so justly revered for. (clapping) Next question, why do we celebrate St. Patricks Day? And what does green beer have to do with it?

(glasses clink) Well it is believed that St. Patrick died on March 17, 461 AD. So March 17th became a holy day in Ireland. But why such a fuss in America?

Well because from the 1600's through the 1900's millions of Irish immigrants came into the US most notably during the Irish Potato Famine of the 1840's. And when they came they brought their traditions including St. Patrick's Day. The first official St.

Patrick's Day Parade in New York City was in 1762 and that parade continues to this day. But why do we wear green? And what's the deal with the shamrock? Well the green possibly dates back to this green flag used in battles against England.

One of those battles even gave us the ballad The Wearing of the Green. So the color became a sign of rebellion and Irish pride. And what about Ireland's iconic shamrock? Well legend says the druids considered the shamrock sacred so during conversion St.

Patrick used the shamrocks three leaves to explain the Christian Trinity of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. Now whether or not St. Patrick actually got rid of all the snakes in Ireland or would have lifted a mug of green beer on March 17th remains a mystery. (slow violin music) From a river of life spanned by a lovely bridge to a curious Black Pool loved by some Vikings that gave us the Gaelic name Dubhlinn.

Which connected to another river that bubbled up into a sacred well that provided a rebirth for the ancient Irish provided by a saint named Patrick who wasn't really named Patrick. Who later had this glorious cathedral dedicated to him. With curious Celtic symbols in it's cemetery telling the history of Irish religion, both pagan and Christian to a holy book preserved in a scholars temple in an expansive Long Room dedicated to expanding the mind. That houses two more treasured symbols of Ireland, a Gaelic Harp and a document that began the path to Irish Independence.

That played out at post office and a park that was surrounded by beautiful architecture that over time symbolized success, then oppression, then rebellion, then despair but now is back to it's original glory. To a city sprinkled with the help of the generous family who's name is synonymous with Ireland's legendary brew Dublin has so much to be curious about. Thank you for joining us on our educational journey and hopefully now you're even more curious about the who, what, where, when, why and how of historic Dublin as the Irish say, (Gaelic goodybe) (upbeat fiddle music)