America's Test Kitchen

-Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Erin makes Bridget struffoli, Jack challenges Julia and Bridget to a head-to-head tasting of single-origin chocolate, and Becky makes Julia pistachio-spice biscotti.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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-Today we get a little taste of Italy because we're making struffoli.

It's a Neapolitan treat that takes little balls of fried dough, dips them in honey, and then forms them into shapes.

Now, it's very festive.

It's often served during Christmas or Easter.

And Erin's here.

She's going to show us how to make this adorable treat.

-This is a true showstopper, Bridget.

During development, we really relied on Annie Petito, a coworker, and her aunt who make this every year for decades.

And they've really gave us our insight on how to streamline it and how to make it approachable so that anybody can make it at home.

-Great.

-So we're going to start with 10 ounces of all-purpose unbleached flour, and I'm going to add 1 3/4 ounces of sugar.

So this is a very lightly sweetened cookie dough that we're making because it's going to be coated with honey in a little bit.

-Right.

-I'm gonna add 1/2 a teaspoon of table salt.

Because this is a very sweet dessert, we really want to balance the sweetness by adding this salt.

And we're going to add 1/4 teaspoon of baking powder to give it a little leavener.

-Okay.

-I'm just going to whisk this together.

Now we're gonna move on to our eggs.

-Easy so far.

-Easy so far.

So now I'm going to add 3 whole eggs that I'm going to lightly whisk.

Okay, so 3 eggs lightly beaten.

And next comes butter.

One of the ways that we streamline this recipe is that most often butter is creamed into the dough, and that adds little air bubbles and helps it to kind of rise.

We found that it really wasn't important for this recipe.

Plus, we have the baking powder in there and we have the eggs.

So we're going to let those do the lifting and we're just going to add 4 tablespoons of melted butter.

Next comes 2 teaspoons of vanilla.

Now all we do is just stir this together to form a dough.

Our dough has come together.

And now I'm going to knead it for about 30 seconds.

That is where we want to take it.

So, this is a part that can be very complicated.

-Okay.

-So, a lot of recipes have you take the dough, roll it into a bunch of different ropes, and then cut, you know, a bunch of different, like, little pieces.

It takes quite a bit of time.

So this is one of those streamlining tips that Annie and her aunt shared with us.

I'm just going to cut the dough into six pieces that are about three ounces each.

But I'm going to eyeball it.

You want to take a piece?

-Take a piece of dough?

-Absolutely.

-Alright.

-Take the piece of dough and press it into a 3x5-inch rectangle.

And sometimes this dough can be a little tacky.

And if it ever is tacky, you can just lightly spray your hands with vegetable oil and also your work surface.

Now we're going to cut it into six equal strips.

First, I like to divide it in half and then cut each half into thirds.

You can score it.

Sometimes it can be tough to kind of see, so I like to score it.

-These are going to be teeny tiny.

-Teeny, tiny cookies.

Yes.

-Score.

[ Chuckles ] -So now we're going to cut them crosswise into 10 strips.

So the reverse.

I'm going to cut this in half.

So I usually like to eyeball it.

I lop off one fifth of it, and then I cut the rest in half and then each half, quarters.

-Now, what happens if I don't get it perfectly?

-It is quite alright.

-Okay.

-This is a very forgiving recipe.

-Oh.

Love it.

-Now we're just going to pick up all these little balls and sprinkle them on to the parchment paper just so that they're not touching.

And you don't need to roll them into balls.

So we're just going to finish this up, and at the end of the day, we're going to have 360 dough balls.

It really doesn't take much time at all.

-Especially with two people.

-Okay.

It is fry time, Bridget.

-Yes.

-Alright, so I have 2 quarts of vegetable oil in this Dutch oven.

You need a Dutch oven that's at least 6 quart in size.

And I have it heated to 350 degrees.

We have all of our little cookies, all of our little mini dough balls.

We want to fry them in batches.

We're going to fry about 25 to 30 per batch.

Now I'm just going to lower these guys into the oil and just kind of let them break apart a little bit.

And I'm going to stir continuously so that they get evenly golden brown.

-Okay.

-Alright, it's going to take about 3 minutes.

-Look how pretty they are.

-Aren't you mesmerized?

Yeah.

So these are perfection.

-[ Chuckles ] Ah.

-I'm just going to transfer them to my baking pan.

So, it's also important that we maintain the oil temperature of 350 to 360.

-Okay.

-So I'm always taking the temperature as we go through each batch, and I'm just going to continue to cook the rest of these.

And then I'm going to let them cool completely.

-Cool completely.

-Yep.

Okay.

So, we have all of our little, tiny fried struffoli.

-Okay.

-So, I have 1 cup of honey in a large saucepan, and I'm just going to heat this over medium-low heat until bubbles start to break through the surface and it starts to get very hot.

-Hmm.

-And this is a very important step here, Bridget.

Many people just take honey, and they coat their struffoli, but that honey just kind of slips off.

And you really -- When you eat it, it's very little honey.

So we want that honey to cling.

In order to do so, we're going to heat the honey and reduce it a little bit.

You can see a bunch of bubbles that are breaking the surface.

-Yes.

Right.

-And I'm going to take it off the heat now.

-Okay.

-Okay?

So now goes the struffoli.

And I'm just going to stir so that the honey in the bottom coats the struffoli all over.

Keep them moving.

So now we're going to go back over medium-low heat.

-Okay.

-And I'm going to cook this for about 4 minutes.

And what that's going to do is the honey is going to continue to cook down, tighten up a little bit.

It's going to cling to our struffoli.

-Mmm.

Okay.

-And it's also going to taste a little bit more intensely honey-like.

-Ooh.

Okay.

-Yeah.

Alright, so, it has been about 4 minutes, Bridget.

And I think you can tell that the struffoli are really nicely coated.

That 4 minutes, again, is very important.

We're going to let this cool for about 5 minutes.

This is another very important step.

So, these have cooled for about 5 minutes.

So, this is our serving platter.

And I'm going to just spray this lightly with a little bit of vegetable spray.

-Okay.

-And this is an important step.

So now I'm just going to take a towel, a paper towel, and wipe most of it off, but I'm going to leave a thin coating so that later on everything releases nicely.

-Gotcha.

Okay.

-Alright?

And we're going to turn this into the shape of a wreath.

-Hm!

-So I'm going to use this glass and I'm just going to take my oiled paper towel.

-Zhuzh it up.

Alright.

-Zhuzh it up.

Okay.

We're going to start with 2 tablespoons of nonpareils.

And as I mentioned earlier, that 5-minute cool is very important.

Had I added these to the hot struffoli, all the color would have washed off and it would have, like, created this rainbow effect and really muddied up our struffoli, so we don't want that.

So that's why the 5-minute cool is very important.

I'm just going to stir this so that the nonpareils are evenly distributed and coat the struffoli.

-Okay.

-Okay?

Next, I'm going to add 2 tablespoons of candied orange peel.

And this is going to add a nice citrus kind of essence to our whole struffoli, and it's also going to add a nice chew.

-Okay.

Great.

-Alright?

It's finely chopped.

And I'm going to add 1/4 cup of sliced almonds that we toasted earlier.

-Okay.

-This is going to add a nice nutty flavor and a crunch.

-This is the fun part.

-This is where you can start to really envision what it's going to look like.

It's really colorful, beautiful.

And I don't want to over-stir it because, again, I don't want the color to wash off of the nonpareils.

-Okay.

-Everything's evenly distributed.

Now...building time.

I'm just going to start scooping out our struffoli around the glass, and you're going to see a wreath start to take shape.

-Ooh, hoo!

-So, they might scatter a little bit, but this is a forgiving recipe.

And once I have all the struffoli on the platter, I can just kind of move them around before it cools.

-I can see it forming.

-Yeah.

So this is a wreath.

I like natural-looking wreaths, so it does not have to be perfect at all.

So, beautiful, colorful.

I want more nonpareils.

-Ohh!

Ahh!

-Isn't that beautiful?

And last but not least, I have eight candied cherries here, so we're just going to kind of put these on randomly.

So we're going to now let this cool for about 20 minutes.

It's almost too nice to eat.

-It's adorable.

-Beautiful.

So this has cooled for about 20 minutes.

-Okay.

-And now I can remove the glass.

-Nice!

-Would you like to try?

-I would love to.

-Okay.

Dive right in, Bridget.

-Awesome.

-Yeah.

I got a couple clingers.

Oh, you do, too!

-Mmm.

It's very floral.

-Really floral.

-And you get a little orange, citrusy flavor.

-Alright.

I'm going to go for a glac cherry.

-I am, too.

-Ooh.

This is how I get my fruit.

-I'm going to add a nut.

This is your fruit for the day.

-[ Chuckles ] -One cherry per serving.

-The little balls of fried dough are so tender, and they still have that nice crust on the outside.

-Mm-hmm, and the honey just really comes through, and it's not sticking to my teeth.

It's reduced just enough to hold everything together.

-You promised a showstopper.

-Did I deliver?

-Every single time you deliver.

You know you want to make this struffoli, and it starts with an easy dough made from melted butter.

Portion and cut the dough into tiny, little squares.

And after frying the dough, cook them right in the honey.

Of course, don't forget to shape it into a wreath and decorate with lots of colorful toppings.

So, from "America's Test Kitchen," the fun, festive, and fabulous struffoli.

-Would you like some more?

-Yes.

-I'm going in.

-The chocolate market has exploded with single-origin bars.

Their labels are beautiful and really complex.

And, boy, are they expensive.

10 bucks, 12 bucks, even more for a single bar of chocolate.

-Wow.

-That's how much I love both of you.

So, I brought three of the bars we tasted.

We tasted things from 14 different countries.

-Mmm!

-You can dig in.

Everything is delicious.

I'm just going to tell you that up front.

-No wrong answers here.

-No wrong answers.

These are all fairly high-cacao chocolates.

-Mmm.

-Extra bittersweet.

65% all the way up to 77% cacao.

So there's not a lot of sugar here.

There's a lot of chocolate.

-Gorgeous.

-And what a single-origin chocolate means, it comes from a single producer.

-Mm-hmm.

-So, really, like wine reflects the climate, the growing conditions.

It's not like an industrial chocolate where they're trying to make the same thing over and over again with the same flavor.

-Right.

-This is all about... it should be unusual.

-And that probably affects the cost, too.

-Right, and they're also doing a better job of paying the labor and really making a commitment to represent these local communities and their chocolates.

-So they don't have vintages yet.

-Oh, no, they do have vintages.

-Oh, they do have vintages.

Oh, interesting.

So it is really like wine.

-It is exactly like wine.

Yeah, in fact, they call them harvests because you don't want to age the chocolate, but it's so particular that they want you to know this came from this year, this producer.

To make sense of all this chocolate, I came up with three categories which may or may not be helpful for you.

Super chocolaty, ultra fudgy.

-Mm-hmm.

-The next is what we called herbaceous, funky, and earthy.

-Mmm!

-Kind of the most interesting category.

There were some -- honestly, one that tasted like shiitake mushrooms.

Yeah, it was -- -So it was earthy.

It was earthy, in the best possible way.

And then the third category was what we called fruity and acidic.

You're like, "Okay.

Why did he bring warm water?"

So that's why we're in mugs.

So, we found that the warm water really just helps open up your taste buds so that you can really appreciate the nuances, and they're really quite different from each other.

-This one, I feel like, is the sweetest of the three.

-Okay.

-This one was really chocolate -- chocolate-forward, almost ganache-y.

-I will say the cacao content for the three samples I put on the table is fairly close.

-Mm-hmm.

-And some manufacturers, they're adding extra cocoa butter so that you get more creaminess.

In fact, two of the samples that you're tasting have extra cocoa butter for extra richness.

Because one of the things, as you guys know, when you make a low-sugar chocolate, you can lose some of that creaminess, right?

'Cause there's so much chocolate in there.

-This one has a red-current thing going on I actually really like because it's unexpected.

But I love all of these.

-Every time Bridget says a flavor, I'm like, "Yeah, I taste that in all of them."

-Hazelnut.

-Yeah.

"B."

-Yeah.

Hazelnut.

"B."

-So, if I asked you to pick a favorite -- Or do you feel like that's just so hard here?

-It's not hard.

I like "B."

-Okay.

-I like "B."

There's something too fruity about "C" for me.

I don't love citrusy.

It's not my thing.

It's delicious, but it's not for me.

"B" is my thing.

It's chocolate.

A little nutty.

"A" is delicious, too.

-Yeah, I'm going to go between "B" and "A."

I think if I had to choose one, I think I like "A" little bit more because -- just some of the undertones.

It seems a little bit brighter.

-Alright.

Well, why don't I tell you what you just tasted?

Sample "A."

From a French chocolatier.

Francois Pralus.

Absolutely delicious chocolate.

-Definitely.

-This chocolate's actually coming from Ghana.

We thought this was in the ultra fudgy, chocolaty category.

-Ganache-y.

-You said ganache-y.

Yes.

Bing, bing, bing, bing.

One for Bridget.

-There we go.

-[ Laughter ] -The middle chocolate, "B," this is from a San Francisco company, 9th and Larkin.

And this is a 74% cacao chocolate from Fiji.

And this was, remember, the kind of herbaceous, funky, nutty, earthy... -Grassy.

-...you know, grassy.

"C" was in the fruity, acidic category.

And this is from another San Francisco chocolatier called Dandelion.

This is a 70% cacao chocolate from India.

And it -- You said red currants.

And I think, you know, you said fruity.

And that's really the notes that you get from it.

And it's so different from "B" and from "A."

-I actually really enjoyed it, too.

-So there you have it.

Single-origin chocolates.

They're super exciting.

They're interesting.

Try some at your next party.

-Going to call you Mr. Goodbar.

[ Laughter ] -The word "biscotti" means "twice baked" in Italian, which refers to the cookie's unique baking method.

The cookie dough is first shaped into a loaf which is baked, then the loaf is sliced, and the slices are returned to the oven to dry through completely so that they're perfect for dunking it into a cup of coffee or a glass of Vin Santo, which is a delicious Italian wine.

-So good.

-So good.

-We're going to be making biscotti today that are appropriately hard and crunchy, but they're not going to be jawbreakers.

We are going to make a pistachio-spice biscotti today, something a little bit different.

Let's start with 1 and 1/4 cups of pistachios.

And I toasted these in a 350-degree oven.

Just lightly toasted for about 8 minutes.

They're going to continue to toast and bake in the cookies, so I just wanted to get a tiny bit of color on them.

So I have 1 and 1/4 cups.

I'm going to take 1/4 cup out here, and we'll put the remaining cup into the processor.

And I just want to chop these up until they're coarsely chopped.

That's going to be about 8 pulses.

-Ohh, it smells good!

-And now I have that last 1/4 cup of nuts, and I'm going to grind these nice and fine.

And not only is that going to add some flavor to the cookie, but it's going to help and make them tender the way we want them.

-Nice.

So let's grind these for 45 seconds.

So, it's been 45 seconds, and I have 1 and 3/4 cups of flour, all-purpose.

2 teaspoons of baking powder.

1/4 teaspoon of salt.

Teaspoon of ground cardamom.

Lots of spices going in here.

-Ooh!

Cardamom and pistachio is a favorite combo of mine.

-Oh!

So nice together.

They really complement each other.

-Mm-hmm.

-1/2 teaspoon of cloves.

1/2 teaspoon of black pepper.

-Ohh!

-To give a little bit of a spicy kick.

-Ooh, I like that idea.

-Yep.

-1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon.

And last but not least, 1/4 teaspoon of ginger.

-That's a lot of spice.

-[ Laughs ] It is.

Now, when we started making these, we were finding that all of the volatile oils in the spices were baking off because the cookies are baked twice.

-Makes sense.

-So we really had to amp up the amounts here.

-Oh, okay.

A lot of spice, but you're really going to taste them in the final cookie.

Well, let's give this a buzz just to combine everything.

About 15 seconds.

Alright.

15 seconds.

Everything is nicely combined.

Let's put it into a bowl here.

So we're just going to keep going.

Since we had the food processor out to grind the nuts, we're just going to make the entire dough in the food processor.

-Makes sense.

-So I have 2 large eggs.

We want to get these nice and aerated.

I'm going to beat them for 3 minutes until they're nice and fluffy.

And that's going to help to open up that crumb and that structure of the cookie, as well.

It's been 3 minutes, and we can see the eggs are getting nice and fluffy in there.

-Yeah, it really changed texture.

-I know.

Just 2 eggs.

They really whip up a lot.

So now let's add our sugar.

I have a cup of sugar.

Try not to spill too much.

Alright.

There's the sugar.

Now I have 4 tablespoons of melted butter.

And too much butter, and the cookies will get that soft texture that we don't want.

But if you don't add enough, they're going to be really hard.

So 4 tablespoons is just right.

And then a teaspoon of vanilla.

And we want just a little more moisture, but no more vanilla, so I'm going to add another teaspoon of water.

Let's put this into a bowl.

-I love that it uses the food processor the entire time.

Really simplifies the cookie-making process.

-Yes.

These are not complicated at all, as you'll see.

Okay.

Going to add half of our flour mixture to the eggs.

I don't want to deflate those eggs that we just took time beating up, so that's why I'm adding just half.

-And you're really being careful to fold it in with the flour.

-That's right.

I don't want to be too aggressive here.

Alright.

That's pretty good.

Going to add the rest of the flour and our chopped-up nuts.

-Oh, I like it.

So some of the nuts were ground down into a nut flour, but the rest are left kind of chunky so you get nice, hearty pieces of pistachio.

-That's it.

We're going to get some nice chunks.

I'm just working this together until it comes into a dough.

Then we'll clean up and we'll come back and we'll shape these.

-Okay.

-Okay, so let's shape the dough into loaves for the first bake.

Then we'll slice them up and bake them a second time.

-Okay.

-So, what I've done here is I took a marker and I marked off a 3x8 rectangle.

So I have two of those rectangles.

And then I sprayed the underside of the parchment with vegetable-oil spray so that it'll stick.

So I'm going to divide the dough in half because we're going to form two loaves here.

And the dough's a little sticky, so I'm going to flour my hands a little bit.

Now I'm just going to use my handy-dandy guide here.

I'm going to shape this into a perfect 8x3 rectangle.

-Pass me the bowl.

I'll do the other one.

-Yeah, go ahead.

Want a little flour?

-Yeah.

-These will spread out as they bake.

-How much do they spread?

-Just a little bit.

So you'll end up with about a 4-inch-long cookie.

And that's the perfect size for dunking, so... -Alright, so, the key is to get it even.

-Yeah, it doesn't have to be perfect.

You know me.

-[ Laughs ] You know me, too.

-Just want to fill that rectangle.

-Alright.

-And then I have a little trick here for making it look even better that I'll show you.

-Oh, you do?

Is that good then?

-I think that's good.

-Okay.

-So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to lightly spray the tops of the cookies with a little vegetable-oil spray.

-Ahh!

-And then I'm also going to spray a spatula.

And then this just kind of magically smoothes out the tops.

It just makes them look really pretty.

-Yeah, well, that way, you get nice, even slices so that they bake and dry out at the same rate.

-That's exactly right.

So, before these go into the oven, I'm just going to give them a little brush with some egg white.

I beat this with a little bit of salt.

That helps to denature the proteins so it makes it easier to brush.

So I'm going to put these in for their first bake.

They're going into a 325-degree oven for about 25 minutes.

They're going to spread out a little bit, and the tops are going to crack a little bit, as well.

-Great.

Biscotti are twice baked, making them pleasantly hard and crunchy.

But the twice baking also makes it possible for them to turn overly tough and hard to eat.

We use nuts to prevent this from happening.

Here's why.

For pistachio biscotti, we first grind the nuts into a fine meal, and then we mix them with all-purpose flour.

When this nut flour is added to the liquid ingredients, the flour proteins, glutenin and gliadin, form gluten, but the nut meal physically blocks the gluten from linking into a large, tough network.

Later, when eating a biscotto, which is singular for "biscotti," the ground pistachio oil lubricates the cookie so that any smaller formations of gluten are able to slide around freely.

And this is why our biscotti have a pleasantly tender crunch that won't break your teeth.

-Alright, I baked the loaves for about 25 minutes, and now they've been cooling on their baking sheet for 30 minutes.

-Hm, not much of a looker at this point.

-They need some more work.

-They do.

-So it's time to cut them into individual pieces.

I'm going to get my ruler so I get the first one right.

I want to do about a half-inch piece on a very slight bias.

There we go.

That looks about right.

A serrated knife is really important.

Some of them might break a little bit like that guy did.

That's okay.

But if you take your time, you should have good luck with most of them.

Alright, now, biscotti means "twice baked."

So here we go.

Let's do the second bake.

-I like how you put them on a wire rack.

That way, airflow can get all around the cookie and really dry it out.

-Exactly.

-And now I'm just going to do our second loaf here.

Okay, so, I'll put these back in the oven for 35 minutes.

I'm going to flip them over, each one, halfway through, and then they'll be nice and lightly golden brown and crunchy.

-Mmm.

Great.

-Alright.

Let's take a peek.

It's been 35 minutes.

-[ Sniffs ] Oh, they smell amazing!

-They do.

All those spices.

You can smell the pistachios, too.

-Mm-hmm!

-Alright.

They're nice and dried out.

They're nice and golden brown.

-What a lovely golden color.

-Yeah, these are perfect.

Let's let these cool completely, and then we'll come back and we'll enjoy them.

-Okay.

-It's time for a cookie and coffee break.

-[ Laughs ] I love it.

Thank you for the coffee.

-Yeah.

I like to dunk.

I don't know if you're a dunker.

-I am.

Especially with biscotti.

-Although, as I said, these don't have to be dunked.

They're not so hard that you need to soak them in a liquid.

Right?

-Right.

-So enjoy them without a dunk first.

-Mmm!

Mmm.

Mm-hmm.

-The spices really come through beautifully.

-And you can taste the pistachio.

It's not just there for visual appeal.

You can actually taste it, which is rare.

-Yeah.

-And I love the texture.

You can snap it apart.

It stays intact, so it's dunkable but it's not a jawbreaker.

-I'm going to go for the dunk this time.

-Mmm!

That's delicious!

-Ohh!

Mmm!

It's good with the coffee.

-Mm-hmm.

-Mmm.

-And the spices.

-Mm-hmm.

-You get a little bit of cardamom, a little bit of ginger, a little bit of cinnamon.

Perfect.

-Even the black pepper gives just, like, a tiny bit of heat in the back.

-That's what it was!

There's a little bit of a tickle on my tongue, and it's the black pepper.

I love that!

-Yep.

This is a really nice coffee break.

-Yes, it is, Becky.

Thank you for making these.

-It was my pleasure.

-So, if you want to make this classic Italian cookie, start by grinding some of the nuts into a fine meal, add extra spice that will survive the double bake, and add a little bit of melted butter to the dough.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a wonderful recipe for pistachio-spice biscotti.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with select episodes and our product reviews, at our website, americastestkitchen.com/TV.

Cheers.

-Cheers.

I'll cheers you with my cookie.

-[ Laughs ] That's a good one.

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