America's Test Kitchen

♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -Today on "America's Test Kitchen," Julia and I team up with two takes on Thanksgiving classics -- maple roast turkey breast and sausage and apple skillet stuffing.

Plus, Jack talks all about cultured cream.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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♪♪ -It's a very special day here in the test kitchen because Julia and I are cooking together.

-Yep.

-A little pared-down Thanksgiving today.

-Yeah.

For a small crowd.

-Yeah.

What you got going on?

Well, I'm gonna make a bread stuffing with baguettes and apples and a little bit of cider.

And I'm going to cook it in a skillet so the bottom gets nice and crisp, and it saves some dishes.

How about you?

-Yeah, well, it's pretty obvious what I'm doing here.

I am making a turkey breast, roast turkey breast, but it's gonna be maple-glazed.

-Ooh, yum.

-Yeah.

Sounds good.

-Mm-hmm.

-So, super easy.

Let's get started there.

-Okay.

-Alright, so, this is a natural turkey breast.

It's bone-in, skin-on.

It weighs about 6 pounds.

And since it's a natural turkey breast, we're gonna brine it.

That just means that it hasn't been injected with any kind of solution or pre-brine.

-It's not enhanced.

-Yes, it's not enhanced.

Alright, so, brining, pretty easy.

This is a gallon of water, also known as four quarts, and 1/2 cup of table salt.

-Mm-hmm.

-That just means that it's gonna to dissolve a little faster, a little easier.

Whisk this until the salt is dissolved.

Okay, well, let's give it the Julia check there.

I think I've got all the salt dissolved.

-Nailed it.

-Alright.

So, again, 6-pound turkey breast here, bone-in, skin-on.

-Mm-hmm.

-This is gonna go right in.

Now, I do need to wash my hands, but if you wouldn't mind putting a lid on the container.

-You bet.

-Great, and we're gonna let that stay in the fridge for at least three hours, but up to six.

-Mm-hmm.

Okay.

Alright, so, while that turkey is in its brine, good time to get the stuffing going.

And this is a baguette, which I love making stuffing with a baguette.

It has more texture.

It has more flavor.

-Chew, chew, chew.

-Exactly.

There are a lot of great stuffings with challah or even sandwich bread, but this recipe uses baguette, which is my favorite.

We want to cut it into stuffing-sized pieces, about 1/2 inch.

And for a baguette, what I like to do is stand it up on its end and make these long pieces.

It's 1 1/2 pounds of baguette total, which is about two good-sized baguettes.

-Okay.

-We're gonna take these long lengths of bread, just cut it into nice cubes.

Oh, no!

That one got lost.

-I -- Quality control.

-Yep.

It smells like a delicious baguette.

I haven't tried it yet.

Is it good?

-Mm-hmm.

-Looks like it's from that local bakery down the street.

-That's a lot of bread!

-It's a lot of bread!

Now, we do want to dry it out and give it a little bit of color in the oven... -Mm-hmm.

-...before we make stuffing.

So we're gonna put it all onto a baking sheet.

Now, the one thing about this recipe -- it is all gonna fit in a 12-inch skillet.

Like I said at the beginning, it's a skillet stuffing.

-All of this?

-Yeah.

I have to say, it looks like a lot of stuff until the very end.

It all fits.

It's kind of a magic trick.

Alright, into a hot oven this goes, 450 degrees, about 12, 15 minutes till it's toasted and lightly browned.

-Okay.

-The bread is nice and dry.

This is great to get out of the way ahead of Thanksgiving.

You can do this the day before, two days before.

Perfect prep.

-Get it out of the way.

-Mm-hmm.

-Alright.

But let's get back to turkey.

-Yes.

-Alright, we're in Turkey Town again.

-Mm-hmm.

-This is out of the brine.

And we just need to do a couple more things before we start to roast it.

-Okay.

-So, I've got a little bit of butter.

This is 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter, nice and soft.

-Yeah, look at that.

-Isn't that beautiful?

I'm gonna add 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper.

If we hadn't brined, we would add 3/4 teaspoon of table salt to this.

But just pepper going in here.

And this is just a butter that we're gonna put under the skin.

Gonna help with browning, but it's really about getting the meat some of that buttery texture and juices and moisture that we want.

-Hello!

-And now I want to pat this dry.

It actually looks pretty dry.

-Yep.

-Moisture prevents browning.

-Mm-hmm.

-Now I'm gonna go in and I'm gonna loosen the skin.

I just want to take my finger and loosen the skin.

Just take your time.

You don't want to loosen this part of it.

Otherwise, you'll end up with a giant bubble, and nobody wants that.

-Sounds like you've done that before.

-Maybe, maybe.

And I'm just going towards the end, but not all the way out.

-Right, you want to leave the skin attached.

-That's right, and I'll do the same on this side.

And if you get a little rip, it's not a big deal.

Now from the front, same thing.

Just got to find it.

Sometimes it does not want to separate.

There it is.

Got to find a way in.

There we go.

A lot easier to do a turkey breast than a whole turkey.

-That's true.

-That is for sure.

So, basically, we're just making a little pocket for our butter.

And that is that.

Alright, so, I'm just going to smear the butter in as evenly as I can.

And I just like to kind of place a blob in there and then work from the outside and push it around so it's dispersed.

-That's kind of nice.

You can see it through the skin, so you know exactly where you need to put the butter next.

-Exactly.

And it's better not to put everything all in one spot first.

-[ Chuckles ] -It's better to start small, and you can always add more later.

Alright, so, this is looking good.

Alright, so, now we need to transfer it to our roasting pan.

I've got a V-rack here that's been sprayed with a little bit of vegetable oil spray set over a roasting pan.

And now just need to wash my hands.

One last thing to do -- I've got 2 cups of water.

Just gonna pour it into the bottom of the pan there.

-Mm-hmm, helps prevent the drippings from burning.

-You're right because this is going to go into a pretty hot oven, 425 degrees.

-Oh, yeah.

-So, we're starting it pretty high because we want to develop some color on this turkey.

And at this point we're only gonna let it stay in there for about a half an hour until it gets nice and golden.

-Okay.

-Alright.

-Oh, it's coming along!

-Yeah!

Yeah.

So, it developed a beautiful color.

That's only about 30 minutes in the oven at this point.

-Mm-hmm.

-But it's really high heat, nice and golden.

We want more.

-Okay.

-Alright, so I'm gonna put this back in.

And now I'm going to lower the oven temperature to 325 -- so, down 100 degrees.

We're gonna leave it in until the skin gets a nice golden brown color.

That's another 45 minutes.

-Time to make the stuffing -- or, as you call it, dressing.

-Dressing!

You gonna put it in the bird?

No.

It's not stuffing.

-[ Chuckles ] So, we're gonna start with the liquids, some broth, obviously, chicken broth 2 1/4 cups.

This is where it gets interesting.

This is apple cider, 1 1/2 cups.

-Oh!

-It adds this depth of flavor... -Mm-hmm.

-...but it doesn't make it sweet.

I was worried it was gonna be too sweet.

It's not.

It's lovely.

-Got it.

So, apple cider, not apple juice.

-That's right.

And then to this we're gonna add four large eggs.

That's just a nice binder.

-A binder.

-Uh-huh.

Gonna use this whisk, break up the yolks, work those eggs into the liquid here.

-Mm!

-Alright.

That looks pretty good.

-Great.

-Into this go the bread cubes.

Let them start soaking up that flavor.

-Right.

That's why you were driving off a lot of that moisture, as well -- so it can be replenished with the apple cider and chicken broth.

-That's it.

Oh, we got a few jumpers.

-Yep.

-Got them all.

It's like the biggest bowl of cereal, isn't it?

[ Both laugh ] Just want to stir these around, make sure they all see that liquid, they all get moistened.

We're gonna set this aside, and we're gonna start sautéing the aromatics.

-Alright.

-First up, a little bit of sausage.

This is 8 ounces of pork bulk sausage.

-Mm-hmm.

-You know, that's the sausage that comes in the tube.

Sometimes they call it breakfast sausage.

Alright, we're gonna cook this on medium heat.

We're gonna get rid of all that pink, let it brown a little bit.

Gonna break it up with a wooden spoon so there's, you know, some small pieces, some big pieces.

It takes about eight minutes.

And I'm actually gonna leave you in charge of this.

Can you handle it?

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

This is meant for you.

Yeah, i you could just keep breaking it up, letting it brown a little bit.

-I'm a great crumbler.

-[ Chuckles ] I heard that about you.

-[ Chuckles ] -While you do that, I'm gonna start chopping up the rest of the aromatics.

Here I have two onions.

You want to finely chop those.

-Nothing better than watching Julia chop onions.

And I actually mean that.

-Trim off the end, cut the onion in half through the root end.

I like going down first, and then I go sideways.

Any little bits that fall off, I pull to the side.

And then -- I'm a miser, so when I get down to this little bit, I go right around the core... so there's almost no onion left behind.

-And that unit of measurement is called a nubbin.

[ Both laugh ] -And then you can go back through.

Any big pieces that fell off to the side, you can just chop them up.

Run the knife through it one more time, make sure everything's nice and small.

Alright, gonna combine this onion with that first onion.

A total of two onions.

I have more chores for you to do.

-Alright.

-I love cooking with you.

-I'm on sausage brigade, but what do you need me to do?

-Could you please peel those apples?

-You got it.

-Because we're gonna add apples to the stuffing.

It adds a lovely fruity flavor.

Again, they're Granny Smiths, so a little tart, not too sweet.

-Hold their shape, too.

-Yep.

While you do that, I'm gonna cut up three ribs of celery.

And I'm gonna cut them very small, a nice fine mince.

And to mince celery, I like cutting it lengthwise into manageable little strips.

And if the celery's really long, you can cut it in half width-wise.

So, now that I have them all in nice little sticks, just gonna run my knife through it once, make a nice fine mince.

Trying to make sure these are without any peel on them.

-Ooh, yeah, nice and perfect?

-Yes.

-Alright, so, that's three ribs of celery.

I'm just gonna add it to the bowl with the onions 'cause it's all going into the pan at the same time.

-Got it.

-And now for the apples.

We're gonna cut them, again, into very small pieces, about the same size, which is 1/4 inch.

-Okay.

-I'm gonna start by slicing the apple away from the core.

I just go around the core in a nice square.

-Mm-hmm.

-Call that a kitchen snack.

-Nice.

-If you want nibbles.

Now I'm gonna take these apple pieces, slice them into 1/4-inch slices, turn it on its side, make 1/4-inch-thick -- it's almost a julienne, not quite.

-Batons.

-Yeah, kind of a baton.

Batons, I think, are a little thicker.

-Yeah.

-Yeah, and you just want to cut it into a nice little mince.

You can make them a little bigger.

You can make them a little more rustic.

Alright, last little piece here.

This is like meditation.

-Mm!

I'm gonna add the apples into this bowl with the onions and celery.

-This is all going to fit into a 12-inch skillet.

-I know!

It's kind -- Like I said earlier, it's hard to believe.

It does work.

-Alright.

-How's our sausage looking?

-It is great.

I actually killed the heat under it.

Looks nice.

-It's perfect.

-Alright.

-It's better than I would have done.

-There you go.

-[ Chuckles ] I'm gonna take the sausage.

I'm gonna add it to the bowl with the bread.

We're gonna build the whole stuffing in here.

-Okay.

-Just gonna give this a quick wipe so that any of the bits don't burn... -Got it.

-...as we cook the vegetables.

Back on the heat, medium heat.

We're gonna add 2 tablespoons of butter... -Mm-hmm.

-...and melt that.

-Mmm.

-Alright, that butter is melted.

Gonna add all of this to the skillet.

Alright, so, to this, we're also gonna add 1 1/2 teaspoons of table salt.

Alright, so, we're gonna cook these until they're soft and lightly browned.

Takes about 10 minutes.

-Great.

Okay, almost back to the turkey.

-Mm-hmm.

-We've got something to do here.

I mentioned it's gonna be maple-glazed.

-Yeah.

-Let's make a maple glaze.

-Okay.

-This is 1/4 cup of maple syrup and just a tablespoon of Dijon mustard.

Easy, easy.

-Oh, it is easy.

-Yes.

So, you do want to use a little bit of a liquid sugar here.

It's just gonna help to cling to the outside of the turkey.

Whisk it.

That's it.

If you wouldn't mind, I have to go get the turkey.

-Oh, let me help you with the oven.

-Alright.

-Oh, Bridget!

-[ Laughs ] -That is a looker!

-Oh, but wait -- there's more.

Alright.

Thank you.

-Uh-huh.

Alright, so, again, this was another 45 minutes.

Now, at a lower temp... -Yep.

-...gives the rest of the turkey a time to cook before this got too brown, but look at that beautiful color.

-Ooh, man.

-Alright, so, now I'm gonna start basting this with half of this mustard and maple mixture.

-Mmm!

-Just brush it all over.

-Oh, my goodness.

-You know?

Just keep it simple.

Alright, so, that is it.

Now, this is gonna go back in the oven... -Mm-hmm.

-...for another 15, maybe up to 30 minutes.

I'm looking for the meat to register 160 degrees.

But in any case, after 15 minutes, I'm gonna baste it with the rest of that glaze.

-Alright, let me get the oven door for you.

That looks pretty good.

Lightly browned.

We've lost a lot of the moisture, and it's cooked down quite a bit.

-Yes.

-Alright, a few more things to add.

We're gonna add some fresh thyme.

-Mm-hmm.

-That's 1 1/2 tablespoons.

1 1/2 tablespoons of fresh minced sage.

-Mmm!

-Three cloves of minced garlic.

And 3/4 teaspoon of black pepper.

-Now, that smells like Thanksgiving.

-That's it -- it's the sage and the thyme and the celery.

You don't need to sauté it for very long, just until it's aromatic.

-Blooming the flavor.

-That's it.

Gonna turn off the stove.

Gonna add all this to the bread and the sausage.

-Good luck tossing that.

-I know.

The biggest bowl you have.

-Yes.

-Alright, so, that's nicely mixed in.

So, we're gonna cook the stuffing in the skillet.

I'm gonna put the skillet over low heat.

-Right.

-Start off with a little butter.

This is 3 tablespoons of butter.

-Mm.

Sounds good.

-Mm-hmm.

We're gonna put some on the bottom of the pan so the stuffing on the bottom gets nice and browned.

Get that last little piece melted.

It's all going in.

-Boy, the bread did a great job of sopping up all that broth and the apple cider.

-Yep, that's it.

Gonna pack it in there.

Sometimes I like to go back in with the spatula... -Mm.

-...and just rough up the surface a little bit so you have more of a variety, more surface area for browning.

-Gotcha.

-Alright, we're gonna cook this on low heat, 7 to 10 minutes.

We're looking for that bottom to be browned.

I'm gonna go in there with a little spatula and check out the edges.

-Okay.

-Alright, that's been cooking about eight minutes.

I've been checking around the edges.

You can see the steam coming out.

-Yes.

-Yep, it's nice and browned.

Now it's time to finish it in the oven.

And we're gonna add a little bit more butter.

-Of course we are.

-Yeah, this is 3 more tablespoons of unsalted butter, nicely melted.

Just gonna brush it over the top so that the top can have a nice, buttery, golden finish.

This needs a hot oven to finish cooking, 450 degrees.

The rack is in the upper middle position.

That concentrates the heat more on the top.

Takes about 20 minutes till it gets beautifully golden.

-Let me get the oven door for you.

-Oh, thank you.

Oh, goodness!

-Turkey time.

-Yeah!

-Oh, beautiful.

-Gorgeous.

-Now, this registers 160 degrees.

I checked it right before I took it out.

And now it needs to come out of the pan.

-Okay.

-You can use a whole bunch of different tools.

-Yep.

-I like to use spear with a fork and use a pair of tongs on the other side.

-Gotcha.

-Just get it right here.

So, this is gonna sit here and rest until I carve it.

That's gonna be at least 20 minutes.

-Okay.

Oh, yes!

-I can get that out.

-Oh, thank you, thank you.

-Of course.

-[ Chuckling ] Ooh!

-Julia, that is spectacular!

-Isn't that fun?

-Beautiful the browning is.

-Isn't it?

And there's so much of the crunchy bits because it lines the pan, as well.

It's the best part of the stuffing, you know?

-Yeah, quite clever cooking that so close to the top of the oven, where it gets nice heat.

-Yep.

This obviously needs to cool -- only 10 minutes.

Make sure you wrap the handle of this skillet, or else someone will inevitably touch it when it's hot.

-Definitely.

-Mmm.

-Isn't this amazing?

It's carving time.

-It's carving time.

-Alright, so, I've got it nicely cooled.

Just made a cut on the top, and I'm trying to find one side of the breastbone here, all the way down, and start to swoop out.

Now, as I do this, I'm actually gonna switch over to my hand, if you don't mind.

-Yeah, as long as it's not too hot.

-I'm gonna start to open that up a little bit.

-Yeah, that wishbone -- you got to get on the other side of that.

-Yep.

Alright, so, I'm just gonna use a paper towel to kind of protect my hand.

It's a little warm in there.

Just pull this away.

-Gorgeous.

-That was the hard part.

I would do that on the second side, as well.

It's easier to do the second one 'cause you already have a peek in there.

-Mm-hmm.

-Now, I myself do not mind having a little bit of meat left on that turkey carcass.

-No, 'cause you want a little 'cause you're gonna make a broth from the carcass.

A little bit of meat makes that broth taste better.

-Let's just make a final detachment here.

There we go.

How's that?

Is that Julia-approved?

-Oh, yeah.

Are you kidding?

-Okay.

And since this is kind of a little informal, smaller Thanksgiving here, I'm just gonna carve this right on this carving board, and then that's how I would serve it, as well.

And now I'm gonna switch over to a slicing knife.

This one has a nice Granton edge, so the meat's less apt to stick to it, and that just gets right through the skin.

-Ooh!

That piece had the really nice, crisp skin.

-Oh, yeah.

-That piece doesn't make it to the dining room, if you know what I'm saying.

-No.

Exactly.

I know what you're saying.

-[ Chuckles ] Look how juicy that meat is.

-Isn't that beautiful?

-Yeah, it's gorgeous.

-Alright, how's that looking?

-Gorgeous.

-How many slices would you like?

-All of them.

-Yes, I'm gonna give you at least three, plus that little -- -Ooh, you -- -Little end piece there for you.

-You gave me the nice part.

Thank you.

-I did.

Gonna go with here a couple and then that end for me.

-Yes.

-There we go.

-Alright, ready for a little stuffing?

-[ Chuckles ] Yeah.

-Or dressing.

Or a lot.

-That's dressing.

-[ Laughs ] I'm just gonna flip it over to show you how gorgeous and brown it is on the bottom.

Look at that crust.

-Impossibly brown.

-I guess I'm giving you a lot.

-Yeah, yeah, yeah.

-[ Laughs ] -That -- Now, if you were in parts of Pennsylvania, this would be called filling.

-Ah, really?

-Yeah.

-I've never heard it called filling.

-Yeah, yeah.

-And we have some cranberry sauce.

You can find that recipe on our website.

-Can I give you a little bit of cran?

-Ooh, yeah, right there.

I love the flavor of cranberry.

I'm going right in for the turkey.

-Mmm.

Mm-hmm.

-That is a perfectly cooked turkey breast.

And it actually tastes like turkey.

It has flavor.

So often you get them and they don't taste like anything.

-Well, that's -- often they've been injected or treated.

-Mm-hmm, mm-hmm.

-This is just pure turkey.

-Mmm!

Mm-hmm.

-How about that little bit of maple on the outside?

-Oh, yeah, that part.

[ Chuckling ] Mm-mm-mmm!

-Right?

-It's almost like candied bacon.

You know what I mean?

-Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah.

-It has that texture to it.

-Cracking into the stuffing here.

-Mm-hmm.

-The cider.

-Mm-hmm, yeah, and you think the cider and the apples, maybe it would be too fruity or too sweet.

It's not.

It just has a more rounded, floral flavor.

-It really shows off how much turkey and stuffing or dressing... -Mm-hmm.

-...really need each other.

They go so well together, kind of like me and you.

-Yeah, they really do.

-So, this maple roast turkey breast was so easy to make.

We brined it for six hours.

Then we started the turkey in a 425-degree oven for about a half an hour.

Then we lowered the oven temperature to 325, just until it got nice and golden brown.

And I brushed it a couple times with a maple glaze.

-And the skillet stuffing, also super easy.

You just want to make sure you use a baguette and cut that into cubes.

You want to add apples and cider into the traditional stuffing mix, and then you pack it into a skillet, start it on the stove, finish it in the oven.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a great duo -- maple roast turkey breast with apple and sausage skillet stuffing.

-You can get these recipes and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes.

And you'll find them all on our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv.

-Mm-mm-mmm.

-Turkey time.

-Turkey time.

-Dressing time.

♪♪ -Today I want to talk to you about cultured cream -- now, not milk products like yogurt that start with milk that's maybe got a fat content of 3%, 4%, maybe 5%.

We're starting with cream, so that means a lot more fat.

The fat content's gonna be about 15% to 20%.

Now, the one thing you need to be careful about if you cook with sour cream -- let's say you stir it into stroganoff or soup -- you got to take the pot off the heat immediately, or you're going to have a curdled mess on your hands.

So, we did a taste test of leading brands.

Daisy was the winner, but we liked all of them.

Daisy's a little bit less tart.

Now, this rich sour cream is wonderful in cakes or muffins, dips of course.

You can dollop it on chili or maybe serve with latkes.

Next up, we've got crème fraîche.

If you do any French cooking, they love crème fraîche.

It's a little less tart, and it has twice as much fat.

So, rather than 15% or 20%, you're getting 30%, maybe 40%.

You can do so much more with this.

You can whip it like heavy cream and serve it as a topping on a cake.

You can actually simmer this.

So, if you stir it into a sauce, no worries that it's going to curdle.

And last on the table, we have crema, popular in Mexico and throughout Latin America.

It's basically crème fraîche in pourable form.

It's got lime juice or maybe citric acid added, so it's got a little bit of brightness and a little bit of salt.

Now, if you're thinking, "Where am I gonna get crème fraîche or crema?"

-- You can actually make it at home.

You want to start with one cup of pasteurized heavy cream, not ultra-pasteurized.

That process heats the cream so much, it kills all the bacteria.

And then you add to the one cup of pasteurized heavy cream 2 tablespoons of buttermilk.

Put your lid on.

You're gonna want to put this ideally somewhere warm, 75 to 80 degrees for 12 to 24 hours.

Now, if nowhere in your house is that hot, it's gonna take a little bit longer, but it will thicken up to the right consistency, and, voilà, you have crème fraîche.

And if you would like crema instead, just add 2 teaspoons of lime juice and 1/8 teaspoon of salt, and you've made homemade crema.

If you want to make your food richer and more delicious, you need cultured cream.

-Join us inside the test kitchen at americastestkitchen.com, where you can explore our newest season's recipes, learn about top-performing kitchen equipment, and master cooking techniques alongside your favorite test cooks.

Visit us at americastestkitchen.com/tv.

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