HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME WE'RE EXPLORING A CITY
WITH A DISTINCTIVE CULTURE...
AND A FLAIR FOR FASHION -- EDINBURGH.
EDINBURGH IS THE CULTURAL HEART OF SCOTLAND.
ONCE A MEDIEVAL POWERHOUSE: STRETCHING BELOW ITS MIGHTY CASTLE,
TODAY IT'S ONE OF EUROPE'S MOST FESTIVE
AND ENTERTAINING CITIES.
VIBRANT, WELL-ORGANIZED, AND FRIENDLY AS CAN BE,
IT'S A TRAVELER'S DELIGHT.
AFTER RAMBLING THROUGH A CASTLE,
WE EXPERIENCE SCOTCH LITERATURE...
AND SCOTCH WHISKY...
SAVOR THE NEW SCOTTISH CUISINE WITH A LOCAL FRIEND,
STOW AWAY ON HER MAJESTY'S YACHT,
AND CHECK OUT THE NEW PARLIAMENT.
EDINBURGH HAS TWO DISTINCT HALVES --
ITS MEDIEVAL OLD TOWN: AND ITS 18th-CENTURY NEW TOWN.
IT'S ALL SPLIT BY A GRAND PARK.
ITS ROYAL MILE, WHICH LEADS FROM THE CASTLE
THROUGH THE OLD TOWN DOWN TO THE PALACE,
IS ONE OF EUROPE'S GREAT WALKS.
WE START OUR VISIT WHERE THE CITY DID --
AT THE EDINBURGH CASTLE,
THE FORTIFIED BIRTHPLACE OF THE CITY
OVER A THOUSAND YEARS AGO.
THIS IMPOSING SYMBOL OF EDINBURGH
SITS BOLDLY ON A ROCK HIGH ABOVE THE CITY.
WHILE THE CASTLE HAS BEEN BOTH A FORT AND A ROYAL RESIDENCE
SINCE THE 11th CENTURY, MOST OF THE BUILDINGS TODAY
ARE FROM ITS MORE RECENT USE AS A MILITARY GARRISON.
CROWDS GATHER AS, TRADITIONALLY,
EACH DAY AT 1: 00,
THE BIG GUN IS FIRED,
GIVING THE SHIPS IN THE PORT: SOMETHING TO SET THEIR CLOCKS BY.
WHY 1: 00 AND NOT NOON?
IT COSTS THE FRUGAL SCOTS: ELEVEN FEWER ROUNDS.
YOUR ADMISSION COMES WITH A FINE GUIDED TOUR.
WELCOME TO THE CASTLE, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.
IT TAKES ROUGHLY ABOUT 20 TO 25 MINUTES
FROM THE TIME WE LEAVE HERE: TO THE TIME WE GET TO THE TOP.
YOU'LL ALL HAVE CLIMBED 414 FEET.
IT'S EASY!
I'VE DONE IT 10 TIMES A DAY ALREADY.
COME ON.
Guide: AND ONCE YOU GOT THROUGH GATE NUMBER 5 --
OR IF YOU GOT THROUGH GATE NUMBER 5,
WE STILL HAD A SURPRISE FOR YOU,
BECAUSE WE HAD GATE NUMBER 6.
AND ONCE YOU'D KNOCKED DOWN ALL THESE GATES
YOU WERE BASICALLY IN THE LOWER DEFENSES,
WHICH MEANS IN THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE CASTLE,
AND YOU HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM TO FIGHT.
THE CASTLE HAS NEVER BEEN TAKEN BY FORCE.
IT HAS ONLY BEEN TAKEN UNDER SIEGE.
NOW YOU SEE HOW MUCH TROUBLE WE WENT TO
KEEP THE ENGLISH OUT.
WE'RE A BIT MORE DIPLOMATIC NOW...
WE CHARGE THEM MONEY TO COME IN.
[ LAUGHTER ]
THIS IS MONS MEG.
IT WAS GIVEN TO JAMES II: BY HIS UNCLE WILLIAM, DUKE OF BURGUNDY
AS A PRESENT IN 1457.
AND THE REASON WHY HE GAVE US IT
IS BECAUSE WE WERE FIGHTING THE ENGLISH.
HE WAS FIGHTING THE ENGLISH, SO IT WAS A COMMON BOND.
THE CANNON ITSELF WEIGHS SEVEN TONS.
IT TOOK 150 POUNDS OF GUNPOWDER
TO FIRE A 300-POUND STONE CANNON BALL
LESS THAN A MILE AND THREE QUARTERS.
THEY SENT THE SCOTS MANY TIMES
TO GO AND PICK THE CANNON BALLS UP,
BRING THEM BACK AND FIRE THEM AGAIN.
WELL, THIS WILL BE THE LAST STOP, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN.
AND WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE IN THE SQUARE NOW
IS THE GREAT HALL,
MARY, QUEEN OF SCOTS' APARTMENTS,
THE CROWN JEWELS, AND OF COURSE,
THE SCOTTISH NATIONAL WAR MEMORIAL.
THANK YOU FOR LISTENING.
[ APPLAUSE ]
Steves: THE SCOTTISH NATIONAL WAR MEMORIAL
COMMEMORATES SCOTTISH SOLDIERS LOST IN WORLD WAR I
AND IN BRITISH WARS SINCE.
TO FATHOM THE IMPORTANCE OF THIS PLACE TO SCOTTISH PEOPLE,
CONSIDER THAT ONE OUT OF EVERY THREE ADULT SCOTTISH MEN
DIED IN WORLD WAR I.
EACH BAY IS DEDICATED TO A PARTICULAR SCOTTISH REGIMENT.
BOOKS OF REMEMBRANCE LIST: THE NAMES OF THAT REGIMENT'S FALLEN.
THE MAIN SHRINE, FEATURING THE ORIGINAL
WORLD WAR I ROLLS OF HONOR,
SITS ON AN EXPOSED CHUNK OF THE CASTLE ROCK,
AT THE HIGHEST POINT OF THIS SACRED HILL.
WITHIN THESE SAME CASTLE WALLS,
THE NATIONAL WAR MUSEUM THOUGHTFULLY COVERS
FOUR CENTURIES OF SCOTTISH MILITARY HISTORY.
IT TELLS THE STORY: OF HOW THE FIERCE KILTED SCOTTISH WARRIOR
CHANGED FROM BEING A SYMBOL OF RESISTANCE AGAINST BRITAIN
TO BEING A CHAMPION OF THAT SAME EMPIRE.
EVEN WHEN FIGHTING WITH, RATHER THAN AGAINST, ENGLAND,
SCOTTISH REGIMENTS PROMOTED: THE ROMANTIC KILTED WARRIOR IMAGE.
THIS WAS FUELED THROUGH THE 19th CENTURY
BY QUEEN VICTORIA'S INFATUATION
AND THAT CULTURE'S: UNTAMED AND RUSTIC MYSTIQUE.
HIGHLAND SOLDIERS, ESPECIALLY OFFICERS,
WENT TO GREAT PERSONAL EXPENSE
TO SPORT ALL THEIR ELABORATE REGALIA.
AND THE MEN IN KILTS FOUGHT BEST
TO THE TUNE OF THEIR BELOVED BAGPIPES.
FOR CENTURIES, THE STIRRING DRONE OF BAGPIPES
HAS ACCOMPANIED HIGHLAND SOLDIERS INTO BATTLE --
THAT THEY WERE ABOUT TO MEET: A BRAVE AND MIGHTY FOE.
SCOTTISH SOLDIERS DID MORE THAN THEIR SHARE
OF DYING FOR BRITAIN.
THEY FOUGHT WITH VALOR: AND WERE WELL DECORATED.
THE MUSEUM SHOWS THE HUMAN SIDE OF WAR.
AND IT SHOWS HOW CLEVER GOVERNMENT-SPONSORED
AD CAMPAIGNS KEPT LADS ENLISTING.
TWO CENTURIES OF RECRUITING POSTERS
ALL MAKE THE SAME PITCH,
THAT STILL WORKS TODAY --: A HEFTY SIGNING BONUS,
STEADY PAY,
AND JOB SECURITY,
AND ADVENTUROUS LIFE --: ALL SPIKED WITH A MIX OF SCOTTISH PRIDE
AND BRITISH PATRIOTISM.
AS YOU LEAVE THE CASTLE,
TURN AROUND AND LOOK UP.
REMEMBER TWO 14th-CENTURY CHAMPIONS
OF SCOTTISH LIBERTY -- KING ROBERT THE BRUCE
AND WILLIAM WALLACE,
A.K.A.
BRAVEHEART.
WALLACE RALLIED HIS NATION,
FIGHTING LONG AND HARD AGAINST ENGLISH DOMINATION.
HE WAS EXECUTED IN LONDON --: HUNG, DRAWN AND QUARTERED,
WITH PARTS OF HIS BODY PARADED TO ALL PARTS OF ENGLAND.
ROBERT THE BRUCE BEAT THE ENGLISH
AT THE BATTLE BANNOCKBURN IN 1314.
IT WAS THE LAST GREAT SCOTTISH VICTORY.
BRUCE AND WALLACE STILL DEFEND THE SPIRIT OF SCOTLAND.
THE LATIN INSCRIPTION DECLARES, MORE OR LESS,
"WHAT YOU DO TO US... WE WILL DO TO YOU."
TRAVELING HERE, YOU CAN GET THE FEELING
THAT SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND ARE COMFORTABLY JOINED
IN A UNION NO ONE SERIOUSLY QUESTIONS.
BUT HISTORY IS SEEN THROUGH DIFFERENT FILTERS.
VISIT A BRITISH-RUN MUSEUM, LIKE THE ONE WE JUST DID,
AND THE STORY IS TOLD IN A "HAPPY UNION" KIND OF WAY.
TALK TO A LOCAL -- YOU MIGHT GET A DIFFERENT SPIN.
MY FRIEND AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE,
KEN HANLEY, IS JOINING ME FOR DINNER --
AND PERHAPS A BETTER INSIGHT INTO SCOTTISH/ENGLISH RELATIONS.
ABOVE THE OLD BELL PUB,
THE NEW BELL RESTAURANT SERVES UP FINE FOOD
IN AN INVITING LIVING ROOM AMBIENCE.
IN RESEARCHING MY GUIDEBOOKS,
I FIND THAT, THROUGHOUT EUROPE,
THE SMALL HUSBAND-AND-WIFE-RUN PLACES --
ESPECIALLY IF ONE OF THEM IS A TALENTED CHEF --
SERVE THE BEST MEALS FOR THE BEST PRICES.
Steves: SO THIS REALLY IS
CONTEMPORARY SCOTTISH, THEN, YOU'D SAY?
ABSOLUTELY, YES.
I THINK THAT IT SORT OF: BOILS DOWN TO THAT THEY'RE NOT AWARE
THAT WE HAVE THIS OLD ALLIANCE WITH THE FRENCH.
WE HAVE NATURAL PRODUCE,
YOU KNOW, FROM SEAFOOD TO BEEF
AND VEGETABLES AND THAT.
AND BECAUSE OF THAT OLD ALLIANCE,
WE HAVE THE FRENCH "JE NE SAIS QUOI," AND WITH THE SCOTTISH LOCAL GOODIES,
AND THE END PRODUCT IS SOMETHING THAT
REALLY SURPRISES PEOPLE FROM THE STATES.
A PLEASANT SURPRISE.
IT'S MORE THAN A PLEASANT SURPRISE, ABSOLUTELY.
IT'S A DELIGHTFUL SURPRISE.
THE DUCK, I'M HAVING THE DUCK.
OHH, IT LOOKS NICE, THANK YOU.
Hanley: THANK YOU VERY MUCH, DEAR.
SO WHY ARE YOU WEARING THE KILT?
I WEAR A KILT BECAUSE I'M PROUD TO BE SCOTTISH,
AND IT SHOWS MY NATURAL CULTURE
AND MY NATURAL HISTORY,
AND THAT I'M SCOTTISH, AND NOT BRITISH.
SO ARE YOU SCOTTISH FIRST OR BRITISH FIRST?
SCOTTISH.
SCOTTISH FIRST?
BRITISH SECOND?
SECOND SCOTTISH.
SCOTTISH SECOND ALSO, OKAY.
AYE!
SO IS THE SCOTTISH SPIRIT ALIVE AND WELL?
I'LL TELL YOU WHAT, RICK --
THE SCOTTISH SPIRIT IS ALIVE, VIBRANT,
AND THE LION IS READY TO ROAR.
REALLY, THERE'S NO DOUBT IN YOUR MIND?
NO DOUBT AT ALL.
SLAINTE MHATH.
SLAINTE MHATH.
[ BAGPIPE PLAYING ]
Steves: OLD EDINBURGH'S MAIN DRAG, NICKNAMED THE ROYAL MILE,
LEADS FROM THE CASTLE: DOWNHILL THROUGH THE OLD TOWN TO THE PALACE.
THIS COLORFUL JUMBLE IS THE TOURIST'S EDINBURGH --
A DENSE TANGLE OF HISTORIC BUILDINGS,
FUN MUSEUMS, AND CULTURAL CLICHES ON SALE.
EDINBURGH WAS A WONDER IN THE 17th AND 18th CENTURIES.
IT WAS FAMED FOR ITS SKYSCRAPERS --
THEY SAY THE FIRST ANYWHERE --
BUT ALSO FOR ITS FILTH.
IT WAS ONCE THE MOST CONGESTED CITY IN EUROPE.
ITS MOST WRETCHED COULDN'T EVEN AFFORD CANDLES.
THEY LIVED IN DARKNESS.
IT'S SAID THEY KNEW EACH OTHER NOT BY HOW THEY LOOKED,
BUT BY HOW THEY SMELLED.
MEDIEVAL SKYSCRAPERS TOWERED TEN STORIES AND HIGHER.
FRONTAGE ON HIGH STREET WAS SO LIMITED
THAT THE BUILDINGS WERE NARROW AND TALL,
CRAMMED SHOULDER TO SHOULDER,
WITH LITTLE COURTYARDS CALLED "CLOSES"
BRANCHING OFF.
THESE CLOSES WERE CONNECTED TO THE MAIN DRAG
BY SKINNY LANES OR EVEN TUNNELS.
400 YEARS AGO, EDINBURGH WAS NICKNAMED "AULD REEKY."
THE ENTIRE CITY WAS A BLACK-STAINED MESS OF CHIMNEYS
AND REEKED OF SMOKE.
THE ROYAL MILE ENDS AT THE GATES OF HOLYROOD PALACE --
FOR 500 YEARS THE OFFICIAL ROYAL RESIDENCE
HERE IN EDINBURGH.
RATHER THAN LIVING IN A BLUSTERY CASTLE UP ON THE ROCK,
SCOTLAND'S ROYALTY BUILT THIS FINE PALACE.
EVEN TODAY, WHEN ROYALTY IS IN TOWN, YOU'LL FIND THEM HERE.
THE BEST WAY TO LEARN ABOUT SCOTTISH HISTORY IS NEARBY,
IN THE MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND.
IT'S AMASSED MORE HISTORICAL ARTIFACTS
THAN EVERYTHING ELSE I'VE SEEN IN SCOTLAND COMBINED.
THIS MUSEUM OFFERS THE BEST-ANYWHERE HIKE
THROUGH THE HISTORY OF SCOTLAND.
THE "KINGDOM OF THE SCOTS" EXHIBIT
SHOWS EVIDENCE OF A VIBRANT EARLY NATION.
WHILE ISOLATED BY HOSTILITIES WITH ENGLAND,
SCOTLAND MANAGED TO CONNECT WITH THE REST OF EUROPE -- HOW?
THROUGH TRADE, THE CHURCH,
AND THEIR RENAISSANCE MONARCH -- MARY, QUEEN OF SCOTS.
SCOTLAND'S LONG UNDERDOG STRUGGLE WITH ENGLAND
FOUND INSPIRATION FROM ROMANTIC
AND ALMOST LEGENDARY SCOTTISH LEADERS.
MARY, QUEEN OF SCOTS --
EDUCATED AND RAISED IN FRANCE DURING THE RENAISSANCE --
BROUGHT REFINEMENT TO THE SCOTTISH THRONE.
WHILE SHE WAS IMPRISONED AND EXECUTED BY THE ENGLISH,
HER MEMORY STOKED: THE IRREPRESSIBLE SCOTTISH SPIRIT.
TWO CENTURIES LATER, ANOTHER SCOTTISH HERO,
BONNY PRINCE CHARLIE,
LED THE LAST HURRAH: IN SCOTLAND'S LONG STRUGGLE FOR INDEPENDENCE.
THIS FAN, SHOWING CHARLIE IN THE COMPANY OF CLASSICAL GODS,
WAS AN ACCESSORY AT A GRAND PARTY
CELEBRATING A SHORT-LIVED SCOTTISH VICTORY
OVER THE ENGLISH IN THE 1740s.
EVENTUALLY, THE SCOTS WERE QUELLED
AND UNITED WITH ENGLAND.
ENJOYING PEACE, STABILITY, AND ENGLISH INVESTMENT
AS THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION SWEPT BRITAIN,
MANY HARD-WORKING SCOTS PROSPERED.
CAST IRON AND FOUNDRIES WERE HUGE,
AS SCOTLAND BECAME ONE OF THE MOST INDUSTRIALIZED
PLACES IN ALL OF EUROPE.
WITH THE DAWN: OF THE MODERN AGE CAME LEISURE TIME,
THE CONCEPT OF "HEALTHFUL SPORTS,"
AND GOLF -- A SCOTTISH INVENTION.
THESE GOLF BALLS -- FROM AROUND 1820 --
WERE LEATHER,
STUFFED WITH FEATHERS.
FOR A DIFFERENT KIND OF LEISURE ACTIVITY,
I'M MEETING KEN FOR A BREAK: AT HIS LOCAL PUB, LESLIE.
SITTING BETWEEN A WORKING-CLASS AND AN UPPER-CLASS NEIGHBORHOOD,
IT HAS TWO SIDES.
TRADITIONALLY, THE LADS GATHER
ON THE RIGHT AROUND A GREAT HARDWOOD BAR.
AND THE MORE GENTEEL FOLKS WOULD SLIP IN ON THE LEFT,
WITH ITS VELVET SETTEES,
DISCREET ORDERING WINDOWS,
AND WHAT THEY CALL A SNOB SCREEN.
THE PUB HAS A CENTURY OF FUN STAINED INTO ITS AMBIENCE.
MORE THAN JUST A PALACE FOR DRINKING,
IT'S A PALACE FOR CONVIVIALITY.
SCOTLAND IS ALSO KNOWN FOR GREAT LITERATURE.
THE WRITERS' MUSEUM DETAILS THE LIVES
OF SCOTLAND'S THREE GREATEST LITERARY FIGURES --
ROBERT BURNS, SIR WALTER SCOTT, AND ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON.
[ BAGPIPE PLAYS ]
ROBERT BURNS WAS SCOTLAND'S BARD.
EVEN THOUGH ROBBIE, AS HE'S LOVINGLY CALLED EVEN TODAY,
DARED TO SPEAK UP FOR THE COMMON MAN AND ATTACK SOCIAL RANK,
HE WAS A FAVORITE: OF 18th-CENTURY EDINBURGH'S HIGH SOCIETY.
THEY'D GATHER IN FINE HOMES LIKE THIS
TO HEAR THE NATIONAL POET READ.
Man: "SCOTIA'S DARLING SEAT!
"ALL HAIL THY PALACES AND TOW'RS,
"WHERE ONCE, BENEATH A MONARCH'S FEET,
SAT LEGISLATION'S SOV'REIGN POW'RS."
Steves: A CENTURY LATER, ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON
ALSO STIRRED THE SCOTTISH SOUL WITH HIS PEN.
AN AVID TRAVELER, WHO ALWAYS PACKED HIS NOTEPAD,
STEVENSON'S SETTINGS: ARE VIVID AND FILLED WITH WONDER.
TRAVELING THROUGH SCOTLAND, EUROPE,
AND AROUND THE WORLD, HE DISTILLED HIS ADVENTURES
INTO EVOCATIVE CLASSICS LIKE "KIDNAPPED"
AND "TREASURE ISLAND."
SIR WALTER SCOTT, WHO WROTE THE WAVERLY NOVELS,
INCLUDING "IVANHOE" AND "ROB ROY,"
IS CONSIDERED THE FATHER OF THE ROMANTIC HISTORICAL NOVEL.
THROUGH HIS WRITING, HE GENERATED
A WORLD-WIDE INTEREST IN SCOTLAND
AND RE-AWAKENED HIS COUNTRYMEN'S PRIDE IN THEIR HERITAGE.
SCOTT IS SO REVERED IN EDINBURGH
THAT HIS TOWERING NEO-GOTHIC MONUMENT
DOMINATES THE CITY CENTER.
WITH HIS FAVORITE HOUND, SIR WALTER SCOTT
OVERLOOKS THE CITY THAT HE INSPIRED AND THAT INSPIRED HIM.
GOOD EVENING, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN!
All: GOOD EVENING!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Steves: TO ENLIVEN ALL THIS LITERARY HISTORY,
TAKE THE EDINBURGH LITERARY PUB TOUR.
I DO THINK YOU'RE GIVING: COMPLETELY THE WRONG IMPRESSION!
Steves: YOU'LL FOLLOW THE WITTY DIALOGUE OF TWO ACTORS
AS THEY DEBATE WHETHER: THE GREAT LITERATURE OF SCOTLAND WAS HIGH ART
OR THE CREATIVE RECREATION: OF FUN-LOVING LOUTS FUELED BY A LOVE OF WHISKY.
Woman: ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON'S "JEKYLL AND HYDE."
"IT WAS ON THE MORAL SIDE, AND IN MY OWN PERSON,
"THAT I LEARNED TO RECOGNIZE
THE THOROUGH AND PRIMITIVE DUALITY OF MAN."
"MY DEVIL HAD BEEN LONG CAGED, AND HE CAME OUT ROARING."
Man: EASY, TIGER.
YOU'RE GETTING A LITTLE BIT CARRIED AWAY THERE.
I THOUGHT YOU WERE GOING TO POLE-DANCE FOR US THERE.
[ LAUGHTER ]
Steves: ST. GILES CATHEDRAL IS SCOTLAND'S
MOST IMPORTANT CHURCH.
WHILE ITS ORNATE SPIRE IS DESIGNED
TO LOOK LIKE THE CROWN OF THORNS,
MOST LOCALS ALSO SEE IN IT THE SCOTTISH CROWN.
THE CHURCH WAS GROUND ZERO AS SCOTLAND DEBATED
WHETHER TO STICK WITH THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH
OR BREAK AWAY WITH THE PROTESTANT MOVEMENT.
LOOK INTO THE EYES OF JOHN KNOX'S STATUE
AND THINK OF THE REFORMATION STRUGGLES OF THE 16th CENTURY.
KNOX, THE GREAT REFORMER
AND FOUNDER OF AUSTERE SCOTTISH PRESBYTERIANISM,
FIRST PREACHED HERE IN 1559.
KNOX'S INSISTENCE THAT EVERY PERSON
BE ABLE TO READ THE WORD OF GOD
GAVE SCOTLAND AN EDUCATION SYSTEM
CENTURIES AHEAD OF THE REST OF EUROPE.
THANKS PARTLY TO KNOX,
IT WAS SCOTTISH MINDS THAT LED THE WAY
IN MATH, SCIENCE, ENGINEERING, AND MEDICINE.
VOLTAIRE CALLED SCOTLAND: "THE INTELLECTUAL CAPITAL OF EUROPE."
CATHEDRAL GUIDES ARE STATIONED AROUND THE CHURCH,
READY TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS.
WHEN KNOX TOOK OVER AS MINISTER
OF THIS CHURCH, FOLLOWING THE REFORMATION,
HE WHITEWASHED THE INTERIOR.
HE BROKE THE STAINED GLASS.
HE EMPHASIZED THE PULPIT,
THE WORD OF GOD PREACHED TO THE CONGREGATION,
THE MOST IMPORTANT, FUNDAMENTAL PART OF HIS RELIGION.
KNOX'S THEOLOGY, OF COURSE,
LED TO THE PROTESTANT WORK ETHIC,
THAT WONDERFUL COMBINATION: OF EDUCATION, HARD WORK, AND THRIFT.
BECAUSE, AFTER ALL, WE SCOTS ARE VERY THRIFTY.
YOU'RE FAMOUS FOR THAT, AREN'T YOU?
OH, VERY MUCH SO -- WE DO SUFFER FROM
SHORT ARMS AND DEEP POCKETS.
Steves: THIS NEO-GOTHIC CHAPEL, ALSO FROM THE VICTORIAN AGE,
IS THE PRIVATE CHAPEL OF THE KNIGHTS OF THE THISTLE.
IT'S USED ABOUT ONCE A YEAR: WHEN SCOTLAND BESTOWS KNIGHTHOOD
ON ONE OF ITS LEADING CITIZENS.
THE QUEEN PRESIDES OVER THE RITUAL
FROM HER ORNATE STALL,
MARKED BY HER SCOTTISH COAT OF ARMS --
A HERALDIC ZOO OF SYMBOLISM.
ARE THERE BAGPIPES IN HEAVEN?
APPARENTLY, YES.
EXCUSE ME, SIR,
DO YOU KNOW WHERE JOHN KNOX IS BURIED?
YES.
Steves: BY THE WAY, JOHN KNOX, SCOTLAND'S GREAT REFORMER,
IS BURIED JUST OUT BACK -- WITH APPROPRIATE AUSTERITY.
REALLY, HE'S BURIED UNDER THIS LITTLE --
I THINK IT'S EITHER --: 23 OR 22?
IT'S ONE OF THESE.
OKAY, THANK YOU.
YEAH.
YEAH, IT'S RIGHT UNDER THERE, A LITTLE PLAQUE, YEAH.
Steves: WHILE KNOX PROBABLY
DIDN'T THINK MUCH OF SCOTCH WHISKY,
IT'S HIGH ON THE LIST OF MANY VISITORS.
THE SCOTCH WHISKY HERITAGE CENTRE GIVES TOURISTS
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE WORLD OF WHISKY.
IF THE WHISKY GETS SWIRLED LIKE THIS...
Steves: THE TOUR COMES WITH A WEE DRAM TO TASTE
AND FINISHES IN THE GIFT SHOP.
SERIOUS CONNOISSEURS OF THE SCOTTISH SPIRIT
WILL WANT TO POP IN TO CADENHEAD'S WHISKY SHOP.
FOUNDED IN 1842,
CADENHEAD'S PRIDES ITSELF ON BOTTLING FINE WHISKY
FROM CASKS STRAIGHT FROM THE BEST DISTILLERIES,
WITHOUT ALL THE COMPROMISES THAT COME WITH
MORE PROFITABLE MASS PRODUCTION.
SO THIS IS WHISKY FROM THE STORES?
YES, THIS IS LIKE COMING TO THE FARMER
TO GET YOUR MILK, RATHER THAN THE SUPERMARKET.
IT'S WARTS AND ALL, AND WE LIKE THE WARTS.
SO CAN A WHISKY NOVICE LIKE ME
ACTUALLY TASTE THE DIFFERENCE?
WELL, I WOULD LIKE TO THINK SO.
I DON'T KNOW CLASSICAL MUSIC,
BUT IF I WENT TO A BAD ORCHESTRA,
I THINK I'D NOTICE THE DIFFERENCE
IF I WENT TO A GOOD ORCHESTRA.
NOW, IF I POUR FOR YOU
SOMETHING DIRECTLY FROM THE CASK
AND YOU TRY THAT, WITHOUT WATER AT FIRST --
THAT'S CASK-STRENGTH, STRAIGHT FROM THE BARREL.
THAT'S LIKE A VERY HOT BATH --
YOU DON'T GET IN THERE, YOU PUT YOUR BIG TOE IN.
SO JUST TAKE A LITTLE SIP.
OH, THAT IS -- IT'S MUCH MORE
UM, VIBRANT.
YES.
THIS IS JUST WATER.
THE SECRET INGREDIENT.
THIS IS GOING TO OPEN OUR WHISKY UP FOR US.
JUST LIKE ON A DRY DAY,
AFTER THE RAIN HAS FALLEN,
YOUR GARDEN IS SO MUCH MORE AROMATIC.
NEVER ICE -- ICE WILL CLOSE IT DOWN.
OKAY, NOW, TRY THAT.
OH, IT'S FRESHER.
YES.
ADDING WATER TO WHISKY IS ESSENTIAL.
I CAN'T TELL PEOPLE, IF THEY PUT
PINEAPPLE JUICE IN THEIR WHISKY,
THAT THEY'RE NOT ENJOYING IT --
IF THEY ARE, THEY ARE,
BUT THEY'RE WASTING QUALITY WHISKY IF THEY ARE.
WATER IS ALL THAT YOU NEED.
Steves: IN THE CENTER OF EDINBURGH,
YOU'LL FIND EVERYTHING A TRAVELER NEEDS.
THE WAVERLY BRIDGE CONNECTS THE OLD AND NEW TOWNS.
IT'S A PRACTICAL HUB,
WITH THE TRAIN STATION, TOURIST OFFICE,
AND DEPARTURE POINTS FOR TOUR BUSES,
AS WELL AS PUBLIC BUSES.
SO FAR, EVERYTHING WE'VE SEEN
HAS BEEN WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE,
BUT OUR NEXT DESTINATION IS A SHORT BUS RIDE AWAY,
IN THE PORT OF LEITH.
THIS MUCH-REVERED VESSEL,
WHICH BRITAIN'S ROYAL FAMILY ENJOYED ON OVER 900 VOYAGES,
WAS RETIRED IN 1997.
IT'S PERMANENTLY MOORED HERE IN SCOTLAND,
WHERE IT WAS BUILT,
AND NOW WELCOMES VISITORS.
THIS WAS THE LAST IN A LINE OF ROYAL YACHTS
THAT STRETCHED BACK TO 1660.
WITH ALL ITS ROYAL FUNCTIONS,
IT TOOK A CREW OF 200 TO RUN THE BRITANNIA.
THE BRIDGE IS ALMOST EXACTLY AS IT WAS
THE DAY SHE WAS LAUNCHED IN 1953.
QUEEN ELIZABETH, WHO ENJOYED THE SHIP FOR 40 YEARS, SAID,
"THIS IS THE ONLY PLACE I CAN TRULY RELAX."
THIS SUNNY LOUNGE WAS THE QUEEN'S FAVORITE.
IT HAD TEAK FROM BURMA,
THE SAME PHONE SYSTEM SHE WAS USED TO IN BUCKINGHAM PALACE,
AND IT WAS JUST OFF THE VERANDA DECK.
[ "RULE BRITTANIA" PLAYS ]
THIS DECK WAS THE FAVORITE SPOT
FOR OUTDOOR ENTERTAINMENT.
RONALD REAGAN, BORIS YELTSIN, CLINTON, NELSON MANDELA --
THEY ALL SIPPED THEIR CHAMPAGNE WITH THE QUEEN RIGHT HERE.
NOW, WHEN THE QUEEN WASN'T ENTERTAINING,
SHE LIKED IT QUIET.
THE CREW WORE SNEAKERS, THEY COMMUNICATED WITH HAND SIGNALS,
AND -- AT LEAST ON THIS PART OF THE SHIP --
THEY WERE REQUIRED TO GET THEIR WORK DONE BY 8: 00 A.M.
THE DINING ROOM, DECORATED WITH GIFTS
GIVEN BY THE SHIP'S MANY ILLUSTRIOUS GUESTS,
ENABLED THE QUEEN TO ENTERTAIN A SIZEABLE CROWD.
HER SILVER PANTRY WAS JUST DOWN THE HALL.
THE DRAWING ROOM, WHILE RATHER SIMPLE,
IS PERFECT FOR CASUAL RELAXING AMONG ROYALS.
THE PIANO, BOLTED TO THE DECK,
WAS PLAYED BY PRINCESS DIANA.
ROYAL FAMILY PHOTOS EVOKE FINE TIMES
THE WINDSORS ENJOYED ON THE GOOD SHIP BRITANNIA.
BACK DOWNTOWN,
THE MASSES RELAX IN THE PRINCESS STREET GARDENS.
ONCE A LAKE CALLED THE NORD LOCH,
ITS WATER WAS DRAINED, CREATING A PARK,
NOW A FAVORITE AMONG LOCALS.
THE DRAINING OF THE LAKE: WAS PART OF A HUGE EXPANSION OF EDINBURGH
BACK IN THE LATE 18th CENTURY.
THIS WAS A CLASSIC EARLY EXAMPLE OF URBAN FLIGHT,
WITH THE RICH LEAVING: AN UNLIVABLY CONGESTED OLD TOWN
AND BUILDING A MAGNIFICENT NEW ONE.
EDINBURGH'S UPPER CLASS: NOW HAD A RESPECTABLE DISTRICT IN WHICH TO PROMENADE.
THE STREET PLAN WAS A LOGICAL CHECKER-BOARD GRID PLAN,
IN TUNE WITH THE AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT.
BACK WHEN THE 13 AMERICAN COLONIES
WERE FIGHTING KING GEORGE III,
A NEW REVOLUTIONARY STYLE OF ARCHITECTURE
WAS POPULAR ALL ACROSS EUROPE.
ON THE CONTINENT, THEY CALLED IT "NEOCLASSICAL."
BRITAIN NAMED IT "GEORGIAN," AFTER HER KING.
EDINBURGH BUILT AN ENTIRE NEW TOWN BASED ON THIS STYLE.
GEORGIAN EDINBURGH WAS A PARADE
OF ELEGANT SYMMETRY AND CLASSICAL ORNAMENTATION.
THE SHINY NEW EDINBURGH WAS ALSO PART OF A PR CAMPAIGN
DESIGNED TO PROMOTE THE NOTION
THAT SCOTLAND WAS A RESPECTED AND INTEGRAL PART
OF THE UNITED KINGDOM.
THE STREETS AND SQUARES ARE NAMED AFTER THE BRITISH ROYALTY.
GEORGE STREET -- 20 FEET WIDER THAN THE OTHERS,
SO A FOUR-HORSE CARRIAGE COULD MAKE A U-TURN --
WAS THE MAIN DRAG.
BETWEEN QUEEN AND PRINCES STREET,
WERE NAMED FOR THE EMBLEMS: OF THE TWO SUPPOSEDLY HAPPILY PAIRED NATIONS.
WHILE THE GEORGIAN CITY CELEBRATED
THE UNION OF SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND,
DEVOLUTION -- THAT'S MORE AUTONOMY FOR SCOTLAND --
IS THE NEW DIRECTION.
FOR SEVERAL CENTURIES, SCOTLAND WAS RULED FROM LONDON.
PARLIAMENT HADN'T MET HERE SINCE 1707.
RECENTLY, THE SCOTS VOTED TO BRING THEIR PARLIAMENT HOME,
AND LONDON DIDN'T OBJECT.
IN THE YEAR 2000, EDINBURGH RESUMED ITS POSITION
AS HOME OF SCOTLAND'S PARLIAMENT.
SCOTLAND'S STRIKINGLY MODERN PARLIAMENT BUILDING
OPENED IN 2004.
THE CATALAN ARCHITECT ENRIC MIRALLES
MIXED BOLD WINDOWS, WILD ANGLES, AND ORGANIC THEMES
INTO A STARTLING COMPLEX: THAT WOULD, AS HE ENVISIONED,
"SURGE FROM OUT OF THE ROCK AND INTO THE CITY."
A SHORT HIKE FROM THE PARLIAMENT BUILDING
UP SALISBURY CRAG: LEADS TO ARTHUR'S SEAT.
THIS PINT-SIZED VOLCANIC MOUNTAIN
BREAKING THROUGH THE CITYSCAPE
IS A BREATHTAKING -- LITERALLY --
WAY TO CAP OUR VISIT.
FROM ITS SUMMIT, WE CAN SURVEY AND REMEMBER
ALL WE'VE DISCOVERED IN THIS VIBRANT TOWN.
I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED OUR LOOK
AT WELCOMING AND DYNAMIC EDINBURGH,
A CITY WITH A GREAT STORY AND A KNACK FOR TELLING IT.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELING.
Passport
Follow Us