West Allis, Wisconsin

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‘Cause these are our Main Streets Something ’bout a hometown speaks to me There’s nowhere else I’d rather be The heart and soul of community’s right here On these Main Streets – This is West Allis, Wisconsin, and I’m on its main street, Greenfield Avenue.
Wisconsinites and most of our visitors know this community because it is home to Wisconsin’s State Fair.
It’s been its permanent home since 1891, but locals know it for so much more.
West Allis is in southeastern Wisconsin, seven miles west of Milwaukee’s lakefront.
It’s 11 square miles, with a population of 60,000.
Emmy, a pretty great skywalk.
– Emmy Fink: It’s a pretty important skywalk because it’s a remnant from the manufacturing plant that put West Allis on the map.
– Really, on the map?
– Yeah, so before 1901, just think, this was just a little, bitty, teeny, tiny village, but that year, four small companies came together, and they formed Allis-Chalmers.
– John: Sure, we all knew Allis-Chalmers growing up.
– Emmy: The next year, the factory opened, and the city just grew around it.
– And what did they manufacture here?
– So here at this plant, they mostly made tractors, but overall, they made some of the largest machinery for mills, refineries, factories, and just about every industry you can imagine.
At one point, they were the second-largest employer in the entire state.
I had no idea what a big deal it was right here.
– Yeah, but all good things must come to an end.
– Emmy: Unfortunately.
They had a good run.
They took it into the 1980s, but then the factory closed, and it turned into a little bit of a Rust Belt community.
There are still just a few buildings that are original to the plant.
This whole area, it all used to be the manufacturing buildings.
It’s now an office complex called Summit Place.
– John: Sure.
– Emmy: They are really keeping the Allis-Chalmers history alive.
– John: Yeah, I think West Allis has really made a comeback, haven’t they?
– Emmy: Big, big comeback, and you know why?
Because it has become a destination for foodies, so be ready.
You’re gonna see a lot more food in this episode.
– Which is not a bad thing.
– More food could never be a bad thing, and now that we’re talking about it, I’m hungry.
– You look hungry.
– I am hungry.
– Should we have a little something?
– Emmy: I’m hangry.
– We are on Becher with Mark Lutz.
Why are we on this street with you?
Tell me.
– Because of that cheese shop.
– John: When did you invest in this corridor?
– Mark: Well, it was in the West Allis Star that they were closing the shop, and I was laying in bed reading the paper, and I bent over to my wife, and I said, “We’re buying a cheese store,” so that was 2002.
This is our main cheese case.
– It is.
– So this is your typical, everyday eating cheeses that you would slice for burgers or sandwiches, and this is the other cheese case.
It’s smaller cuts.
It’s more of the specialty cheeses, and at the holidays, we get up to 400 varieties.
– John: 400 varieties.
It’s called The Blue Jay.
– Mark: The Blue Jay.
– John: By Deer Creek.
– Mark: And it’s very soft and creamy.
See the juniper berries?
That adds a real nice, clean, refreshing taste afterwards.
– The crunch is great.
– Mark: Mm-hmm.
– What else do you have a relationship with on this street?
– We have the cheese shop and the restaurant, and then we have Station No.
06, a cocktail bar and beer lounge.
– John: Yeah.
– Mark: And then we have the Becher Meats, which is our butcher shop.
– John: Yeah.
– Mark: Archie’s Flat Top, which is our smashburger restaurant, and then Scratch Ice Cream, and then the bakery across the way, The Bake Sale.
– Did you know this street growing up?
– Mark: I walked here every day going to Saint Augustine School.
– John: You did?
– Mark.
Yeah.
– John: Was it much like this as a kid?
– No, no, it was empty.
When we first opened, you could sleep on Becher Street and not get hit by a car.
Now, you gotta look both ways before you get run over.
Good to go.
– What’s it say?
– “Becher Meats.”
– Stop it.
– Okay.
– What do we got?
– We got our fresh meat case, and we have all our jerky.
We do about 500 pounds of jerky a week, and then we have all our homemade sausages, and then we have our steaks.
– So I would like to take a look at the master plan that you had when this all– – Not much of a one.
– John: There wasn’t one?
– Mark: No, had a concept of food and keeping it kind of a food center.
– John: Do your five businesses compete with each other?
– Mark: No, we feed off of each other.
So the bakery supplies all the stores.
The butcher shop supplies the hamburger joint and the cheese store cafeteria.
The drinks supply everybody, and it just all works together.
– I can’t wait to see what’s next.
– Nothing.
– What do you mean?
Come on, there’s gotta be something.
– Mark: No, this is it or divorce.
– John: This is it or divorce.
– Mark: Divorce, yeah.
[all laugh] – Here’s my West Allis tip.
If you’re a baker, well, then you need to know Cook’s Cake Decorating & Candy Supplies.
Maybe you’re looking for a new cookie cutter.
[gasps] Well, they have 400.
Maybe you’re looking for a certain kind of sprinkle.
So we found a mermaid mix, pirate ships.
They have frosting all made up.
Look at this– cake filling ready to go.
The third-generation owners, they tell us that out-of-towners who come for State Fair, they’ll buy, like, a year’s worth of baking supplies.
I’ll take the blue one.
I just stepped up my baking game.
[upbeat music] – We who grew up in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, knew of Allis-Chalmers.
It was a lot of buildings because it was a huge company.
Well, in one of those buildings, there is now a company called Blast Cleaning Technologies.
So you’re in this building that was built when?
– Carl Panzenhagen: Started in 1901.
– 1901.
– Yep, used to house 17,000 employees at peak time.
– Wow.
– Carl: When we came in here, it needed a lot of love, so we put quite a bit of money into it.
No, we were in 40,000 square feet, and we moved into 160,000 square feet.
And at that point, we thought, “Well, we have plenty of room.
We’ll never need more.”
Of course, now we need more.
That’s a good thing.
– Talk about your company and what it does.
– Sure, probably the easiest way to explain it is, people hear of sandblasting, right?
– John: Sure.
– Carl: This is high-volume shotblasting to clean virtually everything you can imagine.
Imagine 10,000 shotguns going off every second inside a machine.
– So you build the equipment that does the job of cleaning.
– Correct, they’ll put the product in here.
This will dump the parts in, and then the parts will come out of this conveyor.
Each one of these blast wheels is propelling shot, so we’re capturing the parts that are being cleaned from multiple angles.
– John: And that’s your patent right there?
– Carl: This is our baby.
– Good, and is that person who designed that still work here?
– He might be.
You might be looking at him.
– Did you, really?
– Yeah.
This is my baby, along with a couple of our engineers, of course, to help.
– We’re talking to him.
– Yeah.
– You know, you make me feel kind of stupid, Carl.
– Oh, come on.
– Come on, no, you just shut up.
– Come on.
Come on, this is easy, so now we get into the big part.
– John: What is that?
Are they building a house?
– So this part and this part ultimately get welded together, and then there’s even another part.
This machine is about 30-some feet long.
– And is this the biggest thing you’ve done?
– Oh, no, not even close.
– Oh, really?
– Probably the biggest one we built was for a company called Georgia Iron Works.
We cleaned a 25-foot diameter by 10-foot wide casting.
Back in between 1919 and 1922, Tesla actually worked here, and he worked on his bladeless turbine.
This small, little, magnetic turbine produced 80 horsepower.
You know, he was so far ahead of his time.
We have 45 engineers here that kind of love that.
– John: I bet they do.
– Carl: Yep.
– John: So 2012, how many people were working here?
– Carl: We had 15 people.
– John: And today, 2024?
– Carl: About 280 right now.
– John: 280.
– Carl: Yeah.
– John: There’s nothing small about this, either.
– Carl: No, no, it’s actually really, really cool stuff.
– John: This is fun.
– Carl: Yeah.
– John: Thanks so much.
– Carl: Good.
– John: Thanks.
This unassuming house on a very busy street in West Allis was the childhood home of one of the most popular entertainers of the 1950s.
His TV show brought in over 30 million viewers.
Do you know who I’m talking about?
Well, you want a hint?
Candelabra.
[playful music] – West Allis’s most famous son was Liberace.
That’s right.
There was a period of time during the ’50s and ’60s he was actually the highest-paid entertainer of the year, and I sure wish I would have gotten to see him live.
– I bet you’re thinking, “Why does he look so excited?”
I’m in front of Grebe’s Bakery!
What are they famous for since 1937?
It’s called the cruller.
It’s a cake donut, and I love these.
I was talking to Colton Grebe, who’s fourth-generation Grebe.
He said they make 5 million of these a year.
I said, “Really?”
We should also talk about the Wisconsin tradition called hot ham and rolls.
It started when people would walk home from church on Sunday and stop at their local bakery to buy their rolls, and the bakeries figured out, “We could sell more rolls if we sold something that they could put in those rolls,” so they sold hot ham.
Now, there’s a debate on who started that tradition.
I don’t really care.
I just love the fact that this is a tradition, and I love that Grebe’s continues that tradition.
I’m all set.
[groovy music] I’m excited to be at a place called Cream City Clay.
It’s all about pottery.
How long you been doing this?
– Colleen Volland: We opened nine years ago.
– John: Okay.
This is how the clay comes?
– Colleen: Yes, in 25-pound blocks.
– John: Oh, it’s soft.
– Colleen: Yeah.
– So far, I’m very good.
– You’re very good.
[John laughs] – John: If I were a student, what would it be?
– Colleen: Students can sign up for a one-day class, a couples night.
You can learn how to throw on the wheel, or you can do some hand-building.
You can make functional things, or you can make sculptural things.
That’s a nice, big pot.
– I’d like some cereal right now.
– Colleen: Yeah.
You have to work slowly, let go slowly, breathe.
– John: Good.
Come on, I was working.
– We have a greenware cart of things that have never been fired before.
They’re very fragile, as fragile as chocolate.
When it comes out of the kiln, it has a ting… [pot tings] and then it’s ready to put glaze on.
This is our glaze wall, and this shows you what all the glazes look like under and over one another.
And here’s your favorite, floating blue glaze here.
– John: That’s it– floating blue.
– So let’s peek inside the bucket.
That doesn’t look anything like blue, does it?
– John: No.
– Colleen: And when it gets over 2,200 degrees– – That’s what it turns into.
– Colleen: Magic.
– Can we go in there?
– Yeah, we can go in there.
– Okay, wow.
– Colleen: It’s like Christmas every time we open a kiln.
– What are we doing?
– Lila Papenburg: We’re gonna do a little sheep.
Do you like sheep?
– Got nothing against sheep.
– Pinch and then roll the ball.
Pinch again.
We also can join these two, and it becomes a ball, and you notice that we haven’t used one single tool so far.
– Our hands.
– So it’s very primitive, and your hands don’t get as dirty as when you’re on the wheel.
– [whispers] I like that.
– [whispers] I do, too.
You can also do a sitting sheep like that.
– John: It’s the lazy sheep.
– Lila: [laughs] A lazy sheep.
– This is my hand-building part of my class, and this was the wheel part of my class.
I have a bowl and I have a sheep.
– Lila: There’s no “no” here.
– John: It’s really great.
– Lila: Yeah.
– Colleen: Some of the people started out as brand-new students, continued on to level two, continued to practice, started to make their own work, developed their business, and are now selling their pots and teaching.
– You were an inspiration, Colleen.
– I’m just– I’m thrilled, I’m thrilled.
– John: Oh, I bet.
[upbeat music] – Emmy: Ultratwist Vintage is probably not like any vintage shop you’ve ever been to, and that’s because of owner Jamie Phoenix.
She works with Hollywood costume departments, and she’s a professional stylist.
– Let’s go.
[upbeat music] – 1950s.
’60s.
And ’70s.
– We’re at a beautiful restaurant on Becher Street called Wild Roots with the chef/owner Thi.
How are you, sir?
– Thi Cao: I’m doing well, thank you.
– It’s good to see you again.
– Absolutely.
– We know each other from another restaurant that you didn’t own, but this one you do.
– Thi: So this is my own place.
– John: Congratulations.
– Thi: Thank you.
– John: And who does front of the house?
– I have my people.
Carly is one of my staples here.
She’s been my partner since day one.
– So, Carly, you are the GM.
– Carly Rose: I am.
– And you’re a chef as well.
– I am.
– And you do front of the house as well?
– Yeah.
– What in God’s name?
That’s so good.
We are making gnocchi, and is there a perfect size for a gnocchi?
– This would be about the perfect size.
– John: Perfect size, yeah.
– Carly: Yeah.
– John: What is this prepared with already?
Because there’s more than just– – Well, I can’t tell you all the secrets, but there’s cheese and some seasoning.
– I thought, “She’s gonna tell me.”
– No, I can’t tell you everything.
That would be silly.
– It’s all right, no.
– That would be silly, John, I can’t do that.
– That would be almost stupid.
Not part of the club!
– Thi: Wild Root, the name came from we use a lot of different wild products, whether it be, like, wild forest morels, ramps, even wild game.
– Carly: We don’t waste anything here.
We use everything.
– The roots is kind of like the foundation.
Every single dish that we have, there’s a foundation to it, whether it be a French foundation, Vietnamese.
I’m not pigeonholed to any particular category.
That’s why I call it personality-driven cuisine.
It’s my personality and what I feel like cooking that day.
– Right.
– Carly: All your textures, all your tastes, all your layers.
You want, you know, you want your sweet.
You want your salty.
You want your– Whoops, that one went rogue.
Perfection.
– John: Yeah.
– Carly: We’re just gonna add a touch more cheese to the top because, you know, cheese.
– John: Yep.
– Carly: And put it right there, and we’re done.
– I’d like to give this a taste.
I want to taste it with you.
– Carly: I think we could manage that.
– John: Can we do that?
– Carly: Well, we’ll let Thi have a bite.
[all laugh] – Thi: We have people coming from all over.
I’m very grateful for every day that I’m open and the people who I have here working with me.
– To you guys, thank you so much.
Wild Roots.
– Oh, thank you for visiting.
– As well as its gourmet entrees, West Allis is known for its gourmet treats.
I’m sorry I can only take you on a little tour of three.
Let’s start at Aggie’s Bakery & Cake Shop.
Been here for 47 years.
Every week, they have a gourmet cupcake.
This week, the Frosted Animal Cookie Craze, delicious.
Pete’s Pops, uniquely flavored popsicles.
They have the fruity ones that are kind of like the ones we grew up with, and they have the creamy ones that are almost like an ice cream bar.
They’re all delicious.
This is a root beer float, and it tastes just like a root beer float.
Carrie’s Crispies: 40 different types of Rice Krispie treats.
It’s the only place like this in the Midwest.
Their most popular flavors are peanut butter cup and s’mores, but I have an incredible flavor today.
It’s called John McGivern’s Main Streets.
Delicious.
[colonial fife music] This is the Military Collectibles Shop.
Talk about your shop.
What’s all in here?
– Jerry Dutscheck: Boy, we’ve been collecting since we were both little kids, so the shop is full of original military items.
We’ve got helmets, uniforms, badges.
– John: When you walk in, I thought it was much more a museum than it was someplace that I could shop.
– Right, it’s kind of like a museum where you can actually hold things and touch things and buy things.
– I’ve never been to a museum like that before.
– I know, right?
It’s like how we wish museum gift shops really were.
– Right?
How far back do you go with items?
– Jerry: Oh, we’ve had stuff from the Revolutionary War, but for the most part, we’re kind of Civil War through the current desert wars.
– Mark Mudek: They used to make the helmets out of leather.
– John: Wow, certainly not worn during battle, right?
– Mark: They actually did, in terms of– – John: That’s a fancy battle!
All of these.
– Jerry: Variety of swords from all different countries, all different eras, from the Civil War through about World War II, some Japanese swords in there.
– Mark: There’s a signature there from General Patton.
The Patton signature is pretty rare because, you know, he died immediately after the war.
– John: Does this have a price on it?
– Mark: Yeah, $12,000.
– 12,000 bucks?
– Yeah.
– Yeah, it’s a deal.
– It’s a deal is right.
– John: Do you ever find that whatever the media is covering, like, if something new on Netflix happens and it deals with one of the wars, that then your business– – You know, it’s funny ’cause we do see, we’ll see spikes like that as certain movies came out.
You know, when Top Gun came out… – John: Oh, I bet.
– Jerry: …people wanted the flight jackets and those kind of things.
– John: Did you have ’em?
– Jerry: Yeah, we did.
We can get you one right now, too.
– John: I was raised by a World War II veteran.
– Jerry: Sure.
– John: Who saw action in the Philippines.
– Jerry: Oh, right.
– He came home, married his Irish girlfriend, and had six kids and never talked a word about the war.
– Yeah, and I think that’s one of the things we can help families with, is sometimes unraveling that mystery of “What did Dad do?”
– Mark: To the family, it kind of, like, brings a little closure or a little knowledge.
– Sitting around and talking with other people, it’s good for veterans.
It’s good for the young kids who come and listen to some of these stories, you know, this kind of communication that can happen at a multigenerational level.
– It’s a collectibles shop, it’s a social club.
– It really is.
– It’s a therapy session.
– It can be.
– Yes, exactly.
– It’s where friends gather with similar interests and stories.
– Jerry: Exactly, right.
– John: Yeah.
[all laugh] – This cute, little building was a gas station.
There was about 100 of them.
There’s now only a couple remaining.
In the year 2000, the city restored this building, and they made it into a little mini museum.
Can you check my oil for me?
– I am at Zuehlsdorf Woodworks, which is a custom cabinet shop.
You know, just a few years ago, Trinity Evangelical Lutheran Church, a landmark in Milwaukee since 1878, had a devastating fire, and some of the restoration is happening right here.
This is the pulpit canopy.
It arrived in buckets of charred ash, and a combination of original material and new material created this.
It’s remarkable.
Some people call this inspirational.
I call it miraculous.
[upbeat music] Swoop, what is this?
– Jerelynn Hilger: Bungee fitness.
– Bungee fitness.
– Yes, so it’s just a lot of flying around.
It’s a lot of cardio, and it works your core really good and helps with your balance.
– John: And where did this come from?
– Jerelynn: Thailand.
– John: From Thailand.
– Jerelynn: Yep.
– Emmy, are you comfortable?
– Well, they just told me that it’s gonna go right up in my business, so I can’t wait for this.
– And you wonder why I didn’t wanna do it.
– Jerelynn: And three, two, one, go.
Big step, big step, push.
Nice, keep looking up.
– Woman: Oh, my gosh.
– Jerelynn: [laughs] Last one.
Nice.
– Okay, show me more.
– Jerelynn: Okay, here we go.
– John: Had you ever done bungee before?
– Jerelynn: Never bungeed before.
I was the third studio in the U.S. to open, so when I opened, there was nowhere to try it, so I built out my studio, and then I got trained, so I’d never tried it.
– John: That is a leap of faith.
– It was.
All right, here we go on a three, two, one.
We’re going down and up and down and up.
One more.
[laughs] – John: Wow.
– Emmy: That was fun.
– Jerelynn: Yeah.
– John: That was good.
– Emmy: John, I think this is gonna be the easy one if you wanna– if you wanna change your mind.
– John: Who’s even talking to you?
[all laugh] How’s it going in West Allis?
– Good, it’s great.
– John: And what a perfect space for this.
– Jerelynn: Yes, it’s a nice space.
– John: Like, what did you have to look for?
– Jerelynn: High ceilings, yeah.
– John: Height, yeah.
– Start bouncing your legs a little bit.
Get a little momentum and then bring that one up.
Give it a good swing.
There it is.
– Emmy: Oh, I did it!
– Jerelynn: There you go, do some pushups.
Fabulous.
– Something I did not think I was gonna do today.
– Jerelynn: [laughs] Well done.
– Do guys do this?
– Jerelynn: Yes.
– Okay.
– Emmy: See?
[all laugh] – Good job, you guys, thank you.
– Thank you, guys.
Great teachers, thank you.
Now, how do I get outta here?
[John laughs] [upbeat music] – This is Mike, this is Carolyn.
They’re the owners of the Peanut Butter & Jelly Deli.
So good.
– Mike Hottinger: We have the best ones in the world, I think.
– In the world, Mike?
– Mike: We’re a little bit biased, but, yeah.
We have about 100 different jellies and jams to choose from, and we grind all of our nut butters in house every day.
We have a variety of locally made breads, and our specialty is, we grill ’em, so I don’t know if you’ve ever had a grilled PBJ, but they’re warm and toasty and ooey and gooey and messy.
You need a lot of napkins when you eat here.
– Whose idea was this?
– Carolyn Hottinger: This was Mike’s idea, 100%.
– And what did you say when he first said it?
– You know what?
– Mike: “Oh, my God, no.”
– I think I said, “Let’s wait on this for a little while,” and then he just kept talking about it and talking about it.
– I always wanted my own joint.
I didn’t want to be in the bar business, so I had this concept just kind of scratching at my brain.
We were making almond butter this morning.
We do a natural peanut butter, and then we do an extra-crunchy version of that.
We do peanut butter and dark chocolate.
We do the honey-roasted peanut butter.
That’s good, isn’t it?
– That’s really good.
– Mike: Honey-roasted crunch, cashew butter, almond and chocolate butter as well.
– John: Mm-hmm.
– And I’m working on a peanut butter cinnamon.
– Here, take a look at this wall.
– So we’ve got from apricot to watermelon, really.
– When I walked in, I was so excited to meet a fellow collector.
What a great collection.
– Mike: We’re a lunch spot.
What better thing to have up here would be lunchboxes?
Should we make a sandwich?
– Richon Badger: Hey, come on over when you’re ready.
I have some gloves for you.
– You’re gonna help me, aren’t you?
– Yes.
– Okay.
– Richon: You’re gonna make the best peanut butter and jelly sandwich you’ve ever had.
– And you’re gonna help.
– Richon: Yes, I am.
– John: Okay, no, I’m gonna help.
You’re gonna make it.
– Richon: Okay.
– John: Here we go.
So what kind of bread should we use on this, would you suggest?
– My favorite is Texas toast, and I think it grills perfectly.
– Can we do that?
– What about that?
– John: Oh, that’s perfect.
– Richon: Awesome.
– Thank you, so we are making what Mike and I talked about, which was the Strawber– What is it called?
– This is the Strawberry Lovers sandwich, and this one is our honey-roasted peanut butter on one side.
On the other side, we’ve got our strawberry jam.
– John: I’m gonna put a little more on, shh.
– Mike: And then layer fresh strawberries on that.
We sprinkle more of a crunch onto that, and then we’re gonna grill it.
– Richon: It’s gonna be perfect.
– Mike: To have it warm and to have it grilled perfectly.
Look at how messy that is.
– And it’s a great combination.
Messy ain’t bad, though.
– No.
The sloppier, the better.
You’re losing weight just eating this.
[John laughs] – John: He said it.
[laughs] – Emmy: If you’re from the Midwest, I really hope you know how to pronounce that word, right?
It’s, like, an expression of surprise, like, “Ope, didn’t see you there,” or, “Ope, John, I’ll take the beers right here.”
– John Onopa: Cheers.
– Thank you so much.
This place is legit.
It’s a dog-friendly microbrewery, great beers.
Even the non-beer drinkers like it.
Ope, guess I’ll have to try both.
[upbeat music] What was the best part of West Allis?
– It was all the best.
That’s why I’m calling it Best Allis.
– That is so cute, I like it.
– I thought so.
There’s nowhere else I’d rather be The heart and soul of community’s right here – Boom, boom.
Choreography is not my thing.
Everyone John’s age knew that.
– Grandpa!
This is so much fun!
[all laugh] – ‘Cause it’s boom, boom.
That describes Emmy Fink in a nutshell.
– It’s hard to get into.
I can’t get in there!
Come on, little lady.
– Oh, where we going?
[John laughs] – Announcer: We thank the underwriters of John McGivern’s Main Streets because without them, we couldn’t make this show.
– Yes, Greendale is beautiful on the outside, but it’s what’s inside that counts.
Who doesn’t love opening a door to beautiful treasures?
Whether you’re a collector, in need of the perfect gift, or would like something special for yourself.
Come on in.
You just gotta see Greendale.
– Heiser Automotive is honored to help John McGivern and his team arrive safely to many Main Streets.
We are committed to remaining true to the Heiser way: Do what’s right for our customers, our employees, and the communities we serve.
We are happy to help.
– Your community’s best selfie spot is Your-Type!
– Visit Oconomowoc.
Lakes, festivals, shopping, dining.
The heart of Lake Country.
– My father taught me that to make great bakery, you have to do it the right way.
O&H Danish Bakery, where kringle traditions begin.
– There’s always something shining bright in Sun Prairie, Wisconsin.
– Announcer: Horicon Bank: The Natural Choice, West Bend Insurance Company: The Silver Lining, the Friends of Main Streets, and the Friends of PBS Wisconsin.
Thanks, underwriters.
– Hey, Skipper!
Where’s Ginger?
[blows air] [all laugh]