Rick Steves' Europe

HI, I'M RICK STEVES,

BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

THIS TIME WE'RE GETTING TO KNOW THE LOCALS LIKE NEVER BEFORE.

WE'RE IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

[ BUZZ ]

NORTHERN ENGLAND IS A LUSH LAND

STEEPED IN A RICH BREW OF HISTORY, CULTURE, AND NATURE.

TRAVELING HERE, I'M STRUCK BY HOW MAN AND NATURE

SEEM TO CO-EXIST IN HARMONY: AND HOW RICHLY REWARDING A VISIT CAN BE.

WE'LL HIKE ALONG AN ANCIENT ROMAN WALL,

PLAY A LITTLE CRICKET,

AND BE DAZZLED IN A NORMAN CATHEDRAL.

WE'LL MEET THE LOCALS AND THEIR BELOVED DOGS

AND SHEEP...

EVERYWHERE.

DONNING HARD HATS, WE'LL TOUR AN OLD SLATE MINE.

AND, OF COURSE, WE'LL ENJOY THE COUNTLESS HIKES,

ADMIRING LAKES,

DISCOVERING WATERFALLS,

AND CONQUERING STONEY SUMMITS.

GREAT BRITAIN IS DOMINATED BY ENGLAND.

IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND, WE'LL VISIT DURHAM,

HADRIAN'S WALL, AND THE CUMBRIAN LAKE DISTRICT.

WE'LL FOCUS ON THE LESS TOURISTY NORTHERN LAKES,

HOME-BASING IN KESWICK.

THE CUMBRIAN LAKE DISTRICT, JUST 30 MILES BY 30 MILES,

IS ENGLAND'S GREEN, PRISTINE MOUNTAIN PLAYGROUND.

WHILE NOT IMPRESSIVE IN SHEER HEIGHT --

ENGLAND'S HIGHEST PEAK IS JUST 3,200 FEET --

IT'S LONG BEEN A POWERFUL MAGNET FOR NATURE LOVERS.

THE CHARM OF THIS AREA IS, IN PART,

THE RANGE OF EXPERIENCES IT PROVIDES.

STUMBLE UPON A SURPRISE LAKE VIEW.

THEN CLIMB OVER A ROCK FENCE: TO LOOK INTO THE EYES OF A RAGAMUFFIN SHEEP.

FIND THE PERFECT FARMHOUSE B&B.

THEN ENJOY THIS PACKHORSE BRIDGE.

AND FOR A MEMORABLE LUNCH,

SUMMIT YOUR OWN PRIVATE PEAK FOR A PICNIC.

THIS REGION GIVES EVEN TENDERFEET

A CHANCE TO FEEL RUGGED AND OUTDOORSY.

HERE IN THE LAKE DISTRICT,

WILLIAM WORDSWORTH'S POEMS STILL RIPPLE ON THE PONDS.

THIS IS A LAND WHERE NATURE RULES

AND HUMANITY KEEPS A LOW PROFILE.

FOR TWO CENTURIES, THIS REGION HAS INSPIRED VISITORS TO RELAX,

RECHARGE, GET SOME EXERCISE,

AND MAYBE EVEN WRITE A POEM.

THE LAKE DISTRICT IS GREEN FOR GOOD REASON.

IT RAINS A LOT.

EXPERIENCED ENGLISH HIKERS DRESS SMART

AND DON'T LET BLUSTERY WEATHER KEEP THEM IN.

IT CAN BE RAINY ONE MOMENT AND THEN SUDDENLY GORGEOUS.

AS LOCALS LOVE TO SAY,

"THERE'S NO BAD WEATHER, JUST INAPPROPRIATE CLOTHING."

THE TOWN OF KESWICK IS YOUR BEST HOME BASE

FOR EXPLORING THE NORTHERN LAKES,

WHICH I PREFER TO THE MORE COMMERCIAL

SOUTHERN PART OF THE REGION.

KESWICK WAS ORIGINALLY A MINING CENTER,

BUT THE SLATE AND LEAD INDUSTRIES

EVENTUALLY GAVE WAY TO NATURE-LOVING TOURISTS,

AND, IN THE 19th CENTURY, KESWICK BECAME A RESORT.

ITS FINE OLD BUILDINGS RECALL THOSE ROMANTIC-ERA DAYS

WHEN BIG-CITY FOLKS: FIRST LEARNED ABOUT COMMUNING WITH NATURE.

TODAY, THE TOWN IS WELL-STOCKED

WITH HIKING-GEAR SHOPS: AND PUBS.

THE LAKE DISTRICT IS POPULAR WITH ENGLISH HOLIDAY-MAKERS,

WHO PREFER TO BRING: THEIR BELOVED DOGS WITH THEM ON VACATION.

KESWICK'S TOWN SQUARE CAN LOOK LIKE A CANINE CONVENTION,

AND IN LOCAL PUBS,

DOGS ARE MORE THAN WELCOME.

AND WE PICKED UP A TIP AT THE PUB.

A SHEEPDOG TRIAL AND HOUND SHOW IS ON TODAY,

AND IT'S JUST DOWN THE VALLEY.

FARM CULTURE IS STILL ALIVE AND WELL IN THESE FERTILE HILLS.

FROM GRITTY SHEPHERDS TO GENTLEMAN FARMERS

TO CURIOUS TOURISTS, THERE'S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE.

WHILE LOTS OF FUN AND PLENTY ENTERTAINING,

COMPETITIONS LIKE THESE HAVE PRACTICAL ROOTS.

THEY GO BACK TO A TIME WHEN AGILITY AND HUNTING INSTINCTS

MADE A HOUND TRULY MAN'S BEST FRIEND.

ACCORDING TO THE PROGRAM, A GOOD FELL FOXHOUND MUST HAVE

GOOD SHOULDERS, LONG NECK, LEVEL BACK,

AND AGILE HIND LEGS TO JUMP THOSE STONE WALLS.

THE SCENE ITSELF OFFERS A FASCINATING GLIMPSE

INTO THIS CULTURE,

FROM SHEPHERD'S CROOKS: TO TAILGATE PARTY DOG TALK.

AND THE MAIN EVENT,

AS EXPLAINED TO US BY A LOCAL AFICIONADO,

IS THE SHEPHERD AND HIS DOG BRINGING IN THE SHEEP

AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.

Man: THE SHEPHERD GOES OUT, HE'S GIVEN A POSITION

WHERE HE STANDS AT THE POST,

AND HE HAS TO DIRECT HIS DOG OUT

ON THE RIGHT OR THE LEFT,

THAT IS IMMATERIAL.

DOGS, YOU CAN WORK WITH THEM

HALF A MILE AWAY.

THEY'LL PICK THE SOUND UP, THEY WILL HEAR YOU,

AND THEY CAN WORK FROM HALF A MILE AWAY COLLECTING SHEEP,

PUTTING THEM TOGETHER, BRINGING THEM INTO A FLOCK.

AND BRING THEM AS NEAR IN A STRAIGHT LINE AS POSSIBLE

DOWN THE COURSE, THROUGH THE HURDLES THERE,

BACK TO THE PEN,

HOPEFULLY NICE PEN, STRAIGHT IN,

NO BREAKS,

AND THE APPLAUSE.

[ INDISTINCT ANNOUNCEMENT ]

WORKING A BORDER COLLIE IS LIKE MARRIAGE.

IT'S GOT TO CLICK.

YOU MUST HAVE CONFIDENCE IN ONE ANOTHER.

THE DOG WILL HAVE CONFIDENCE IN YOU

IF YOU'VE GOT CONFIDENCE IN HIM.

IT'S AS BEAUTIFUL AS THAT,

AND IT'S LOVELY TO WORK WITH THEM.

[ WHISTLING ]

[ SHEEP BLEATS ]

Steves: KESWICK HAS PLENTY OF GOOD B&BS.

WE'RE STAYING AT HOWE KELD,

WHICH HAS THE POLISHED FEEL OF A BOUTIQUE HOTEL BUT OFFERS

ALL THE WARMTH AND FRIENDLINESS OF A B&B.

ITS CONTEMPORARY ROOMS ARE TASTEFULLY FURNISHED

IN NATIVE WOODS AND SLATE.

ITS BREAKFAST IS FIRST-CLASS.

I'M GETTING: THE TRADITIONAL CUMBRIAN FRY,

COMPLETE WITH LOCAL SAUSAGE.

AND THE LOUNGE OFFERS A COZY AND ENJOYABLE PLACE

TO RELAX AND PREPARE FOR YOUR DAY'S ACTIVITIES.

GOOD B&B HOSTS LOAN MAPS

AND OFFER PLENTY OF HIKING ADVICE.

THAT'S A LOVELY WALK.

JUST DOWN THE STREET IS KESWICK'S PETITE MARINA,

WHERE WE'RE COMBINING A SHORT CRUISE

WITH MY FAVORITE LAKE DISTRICT HIKE

UP A DRAMATIC NEARBY RIDGE.

DERWENTWATER IS ONE OF CUMBRIA'S

MOST PHOTOGRAPHED AND POPULAR LAKES.

BOATS CIRCLE THE LAKE: PICKING UP AND DROPPING OFF WALKERS

AT PEACEFUL LANDINGS: ALL ALONG THE WAY.

FROM THE DOCK,

A TRAIL LEADS UP ALONG A RIDGE CALLED CATBELLS.

THE STEEP CLIMB: BOTH BURNS OFF THAT CUMBRIAN FRIED BREAKFAST

AND OFFERS SOME COMMANDING VIEWS.

VIGOROUS HIKES LIKE THIS ARE ONE OF MANY REASONS

THE LAKE DISTRICT IS SUCH A HIT WITH ENGLISH HOLIDAY GOERS.

THIS LITTLE ADVENTURE TAKES JUST A COUPLE OF HOURS AND IT

REWARDS ANYONE WHO TACKLES IT WITH A TRIP HIGHLIGHT.

GET OUT AND MAKE THESE EXPERIENCES HAPPEN.

FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE, YOU'LL REMEMBER,

IN THIS CASE, SCALING CATBELLS,

WITH ITS THRILLING "KING OF THE MOUNTAIN" CLIMAX.

AFTER OUR DESCENT, WE CATCH THE BOAT

AT THE NEXT LANDING: AND FINISH OUR RELAXING CRUISE AROUND DERWENTWATER.

THE PHEASANT INN IS A KESWICK FAVORITE,

AND DAVID AND VAL, WHO RUN OUR B&B,

ARE JOINING US FOR DINNER.

AS ANYWHERE IN BRITAIN, A GOOD PUB

COMES WITH CHARMING CONVIVIALITY.

KIDS ARE WELCOME.

AND, ONCE AGAIN, IN CUMBRIAN PUBS,

MAN'S BEST FRIEND IS PERFECTLY WELCOME, TOO.

THE MENU OFFERS LAKE DISTRICT PUB CLASSICS.

DAVID'S HAVING TROUT: AND I'M GOING FOR THE RUMP OF LAMB.

MY IMAGE: OF PUB GRUB IN THE OLD DAYS WAS PRETTY BAD.

NO, PUBS HAVE TAKEN A LOT MORE INTEREST IN FOOD NOW.

THEY'RE NOT JUST: THE DRINKING DESTINATIONS.

THEY'RE HAVING TO SELL FOOD IN ORDER TO ATTRACT PEOPLE IN.

AND THEY'RE SMOKE-FREE.

THAT'S A GREAT IMPROVEMENT OVER RECENTLY,

IS SINCE THE SMOKING BAN CAME IN,

AND IT'S MUCH MORE PLEASANT TO EAT NOW.

A SHORT DRIVE SOUTH FROM KESWICK

TAKES US THROUGH THE VERY COUNTRYSIDE

THAT INSPIRED ENGLAND'S GREAT ROMANTIC POETS.

THE GREATEST OF THOSE WAS WILLIAM WORDSWORTH,

WHO LIVED HERE IN DOVE COTTAGE.

WORDSWORTH SPENT HIS MOST PRODUCTIVE YEARS,

1799 TO 1808, IN THIS HUMBLE STONE HOUSE.

THIS IS WHERE HE MARRIED, HAD KIDS,

AND WROTE MUCH OF HIS BEST POETRY.

IN THESE CRAMPED AND SIMPLE QUARTERS,

WORDSWORTH PRACTICED HIS PHILOSOPHY

OF PLAIN LIVING AND HIGH THINKING.

THE ADJACENT MUSEUM DISPLAYS ORIGINAL WRITINGS, SKETCHES,

AND PERSONAL ITEMS THAT GIVE ANOTHER PEEK INTO

THE LIFE AND WORLD OF THE POET.

HIS WELL-STAMPED PASSPORT: AND HIS WELL-WORN LITTLE SUITCASE

ARE PROOF HE PACKED LIGHT AND TRAVELED FAR AND WIDE.

NOTEBOOK IN HAND, HE WANDERED ACROSS ENGLAND

AND THROUGH EUROPE ON WHAT WOULD BECOME THE ROMANTIC GRAND TOUR.

UNTIL THEN, ALMOST NOBODY CLIMBED A MOUNTAIN

JUST BECAUSE IT WAS THERE, BUT WORDSWORTH DID.

HE'D WANDER "LONELY AS A CLOUD" THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE,

FINDING INSPIRATION LOST IN: THE AWE-INSPIRING IMMENSITY OF NATURE.

IF APPRECIATING NATURE: BECAME A RELIGION IN 19th-CENTURY ENGLAND,

WORDSWORTH WAS ITS PROPHET.

WITH THE ADVENT OF THE INDUSTRIAL AGE,

MACHINES WERE TAMING NATURE: AND FACTORY HOURS WERE TAMING FREE SPIRITS.

THE ROMANTIC MOVEMENT, LED BY ARTISTS AND WRITERS

LIKE WORDSWORTH, WAS A REACTION AGAINST THIS.

ROMANTICISM CELEBRATED NATURE, MAKING IT ALMOST A RELIGION.

PEOPLE CAME TO THE LAKES DISTRICT AS IF ON A PILGRIMAGE,

AND, LIKE THE POETS, AFTER COMMUNING WITH NATURE,

THEY'D BE INSPIRED AND REFLECT ON THE MEANING OF LIFE.

WHILE WORDSWORTH WOULD LIKELY BE APPALLED AT

THE SPEEDY CONVENIENCE OF IT ALL,

DRIVERS CAN ENJOY CAR TOURING.

FROM KESWICK, A SCENIC 20 MILE-LOOP SOUTH

REVEALS THE ESSENCE OF LAKE DISTRICT CHARMS.

NEWLANDS VALLEY IS A MAJESTIC PLACE.

IF IT HAD A LAKE, IT WOULD BE PACKED WITH TOURISTS,

BUT IT DOESN'T, AND IT ISN'T.

THE VALLEY IS DOTTED WITH OLD, FAMILY-RUN FARMS.

WITH TOUGH TIMES FOR SMALL FARMS,

MOST OF THE WIVES: SUPPLEMENT THE FAMILY INCOME BY RUNNING B&Bs.

MANY FARMS IN THE VALLEY RENT ROOMS.

I'VE BEEN RECOMMENDING THE KESKADALE FARM

IN MY BRITAIN GUIDEBOOK NOW FOR OVER TWENTY YEARS.

MARGARET HARRYMAN'S WELCOME IS AS WARM AS EVER,

AND STAYING IN HER B&B, THERE'S NO DOUBT,

YOU REALLY ARE ON A WORKING FARM.

THEIR SON, SEAN, WILL SOME DAY RUN THE FARM.

ONE THING HE'S ALREADY IN CHARGE OF

IS SHEARING THE SHEEP.

EACH OF THEIR 1,500 SHEEP NEED TO BE SHEARED EACH SUMMER.

WHY DO YOU HAVE TO SHEAR THE SHEEP?

Margaret: WELL, FOR HUSBANDRY REASONS

AND FOR THE WELFARE OF THE SHEEP,

AND THEN IF THEY'RE SHEARED WHEN IT'S WARM WEATHER

SO IT'S A GREAT RELIEF FOR THE SHEEP ONCE YOU GET SHEARED.

Steves: BUT THE FLEECES ARE NO LONGER

THE MONEY-MAKER THEY ONCE WERE.

IN FACT, RECENTLY, PRICES WERE SO LOW,

FARMERS HERE JUST BURNED THE WOOL.

TODAY, WITH NEW USES FOR THIS NATURAL FIBER,

WOOL PRICES ARE HIGHER,

SO SEAN AND HIS DAD: COLLECT THE FLEECES INTO BALES.

[ BUZZING ]

Steves: DOES IT HURT THE SHEEP?

Margaret: NO, NO, NO.

NO, IT'S VERY THERAPEUTIC.

IT JUST GLIDES BY THE SKIN, SO IT DOESN'T HURT THEM AT ALL.

Female voice: THERAPEUTIC?

Steves: WHEN CAR TOURING,

MAKE A POINT TO STOP AND GET OUT.

FROM THE NEWLANDS PASS SUMMIT, THERE'S A REWARDING LITTLE WALK

TO A FRISKY WATERFALL.

FROM HERE, THE ROAD DESCENDS,

WINDING SCENICALLY PAST A FARM HAMLET

AND TO DELIGHTFUL BUTTERMERE, WITH ITS POPULAR LAKESIDE TRAIL.

OUR LOOP THEN CLIMBS RUGGED HONISTER PASS,

WITH ITS WILD AND WEATHER-BEATEN CHARM.

AT THE SUMMIT STANDS THE HONISTER SLATE MINE.

ENGLAND'S LAST STILL-FUNCTIONING SLATE MINE OFFERS TOURS.

YOU'LL PUT ON A HARD HAT,

LOAD ONTO A BUS FOR A SHORT CLIMB,

AND THEN LEARN ABOUT THE REGION'S SLATE INDUSTRY

FROM AN ENTHUSIASTIC GUIDE.

WHAT WE DESCRIBE THAT ROCK AS IS GREEN GOLD.

IT'S CALLED GREEN GOLD BECAUSE IT REPRESENTS TODAY

THE FINEST ROOFING SLATE IN THE WORLD.

IT IS THE NUMBER-ONE, THE ROLLS-ROYCE OF SLATE.

ON THAT ROCK ON THE FAR SIDE: AS WE LOOKED WHEN WE WERE DOWN BELOW,

THERE ARE BOTHIES, LITTLE STONE HUTS WHERE

THE MINERS USED TO LIVE,

BECAUSE WHAT WE HAVE TO REMEMBER HERE

IS PRE-FIRST WORLD WAR THROUGH THE HISTORY OF MINING,

IF YOU WORKED HERE, YOU LIVED HERE.

RIGHT, IN WE GO.

THIS WAY, FOLKS.

Steves: NARROW SHAFTS LEAD DEEP INTO

THE EVOCATIVE VICTORIAN MINE.

YOU'LL BE THANKFUL: FOR YOUR HELMET.

STANDING INSIDE THE MOUNTAIN, SURROUNDED BY SLATE SCRAP

AND THE BEAMS OF A DOZEN HEADLAMPS,

YOU'LL LEARN THE BACK-STORY OF THE STONE THAT ROOFS

SO MUCH OF ENGLAND.

Guide: IMAGINE YOU'RE EIGHT, TEN YEARS OLD,

WORKING UNDERGROUND MAYBE FOR TEN, FOURTEEN HOURS A DAY,

AND YOUR JOB WAS TO ASSIST YOUR FATHER

AND YOUR ELDER BROTHERS IN DRILLING THE ROCK.

I THINK YOU'RE GOING TO GET THE HANG OF THIS ONE

VERY QUICKLY, FOLKS, BECAUSE YOU CAN IMAGINE

THERE'S SOMEONE AT THIS END WITH A LARGE SLEDGEHAMMER,

AND EACH TIME YOU HIT IT,

TURN IT, TWIST IT,

PUSH IT.

HIT, TURN IT, PUSH IT.

IN -- BACK INTO THE ROCK.

Steves: I DON'T KNOW ABOUT YOU,

BUT A TOUR LIKE THAT MAKES ME GLAD I WORK

AND LIVE ABOVE GROUND AND IN THE 21st CENTURY.

FREEDOM!

COMPLETING OUR LOOP, WE PASS HUMBLE HAMLETS

AND THE LUSH BORROWDALE VALLEY,

ALWAYS OPEN FOR SERENDIPITY.

COMING UPON AN INVITING GATHERING,

WE PULL OVER AND FIND OURSELVES AT A CRICKET MATCH,

COMPLETE WITH CUMBRIAN SAUSAGE

ON THE GRILL AND A KEG OF LOCAL BREW.

THE GANG GATHERED HERE BRAGGED THEIR FIELD

WAS NAMED ENGLAND'S MOST BEAUTIFUL CRICKET PITCH,

AND I CAN SEE WHY.

BUT WHEN YOU HIT THE BALL, DO YOU RUN

AROUND THE BASES, OR WHAT DO YOU DO?

NO, YOU JUST RUN T'OTHER END.

AND THIS GAVE ME YET ANOTHER CHANCE

TO TRY TO UNDERSTAND THIS BEWILDERING NATIONAL PASTIME.

SO THE PITCHER IS CALLED THE BOWLER.

YEP, HE IS.

OUR PITCHERS, YOUR BOWLERS.

AND WHAT DO YOU CALL YOUR BATTER?

THE BATTER.

ALL RIGHT!

SO NOW, IS THAT A POINT?

THAT'S A FOUR.

FOUR RUNS.

IF HE HITS IT OVER: THE BOUNDARY, WHICH IS THE WHITE LINE

IN FRONT OF US HERE, HE GETS FOUR.

[ CHEERING ]

YOU KNOW, I'M STILL CONFUSED.

I'M STILL CONFUSED, BUT I'M LESS CONFUSED

THAN I WAS A FEW MINUTES AGO.

WELL, IF ANYBODY CAN CONFUSE ANYBODY, I CAN.

WELL, YOU'RE DOING A GOOD JOB.

Steves: THESE VALLEYS HAVE SUSTAINED COMMUNITIES HERE

FOR LONGER THAN YOU MIGHT IMAGINE.

JUST OUTSIDE OF KESWICK STANDS THE CASTLERIGG STONE CIRCLE.

LIKE A MINI-STONEHENGE DRENCHED IN LAKE DISTRICT BEAUTY,

IT WAS BUILT OVER 4,000 YEARS AGO

TO FUNCTION AS A CELESTIAL CALENDAR.

IMAGINE ANCIENT PEOPLE FILLING THIS CLEARING IN SPRING

TO CELEBRATE FERTILITY,

IN LATE SUMMER FOR THE HARVEST,

AND IN WINTER FOR THE SOLSTICE.

FESTIVAL DATES WERE DICTATED BY HOW THE SUN ROSE AND SET

IN RELATION TO THESE STONES, WHICH WERE ALIGNED

WITH THE SURROUNDING PEAKS.

FOR MAXIMUM GOOSE PIMPLES, AS THEY SAY IN ENGLAND,

BE HERE AFTER EVERYONE'S LEFT,

AND THE MYSTICAL PLACE IS ALL YOURS.

LEAVING THE LAKE DISTRICT,

WE DRIVE EAST FOR MORE HIGHLIGHTS OF NORTH ENGLAND.

THE ROAD PARALLELS MY FAVORITE ANCIENT ROMAN SITE

IN ALL OF BRITAIN.

HADRIAN'S WALL WAS BUILT BY THE ROMANS

DURING THE REIGN OF EMPEROR HADRIAN

NEARLY 2,000 YEARS AGO.

THIS IS ONE OF ENGLAND'S MOST THOUGHT-PROVOKING SIGHTS

AND MUCH LOVED BY HIKERS.

THIS GREAT STONE WALL STRETCHED 73 MILES

FROM COAST TO COAST ACROSS THE NARROWEST PART

OF NORTHERN ENGLAND.

THIS WAS MORE THAN JUST A WALL.

IT WAS A CLEVERLY DESIGNED MILITARY RAMPART

MANNED BY 20,000 TROOPS.

AT EVERY MILE ALONG THE WALL, A SMALL FORT GUARDED A GATE.

ITS ACTUAL PURPOSE IS STILL DEBATED.

THE WALL, WHICH OFTEN TAKES ADVANTAGE OF

NATURAL CONTOURS IN THE LAND, LIKELY DEFINED

THE NORTHERN EDGE OF THE EMPIRE

AND HELPED DEFEND ROMAN BRITAIN TO THE SOUTH

FROM PESKY, HARD-TO-CONQUER BARBARIANS TO THE NORTH.

TODAY'S MODERN BORDER BETWEEN SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND

STILL RUNS PRETTY CLOSE TO THIS ANCIENT WALL.

A PARTICULARLY WELL-PRESERVED SEGMENT OF THE WALL

LEADS TO HOUSESTEADS ROMAN FORT.

ROMAN FORTS HAD A STANDARD DESIGN --

A RECTANGULAR SHAPE: CONTAINING A COMMANDER'S HEADQUARTERS AND BARRACKS.

THERE'S LITTLE MORE THAN STONE FOUNDATIONS REMAINING.

THESE STONES RAISED A FLOOR TO GIVE STORED GRAIN VENTILATION,

AND THIS WAS ONCE A SET OF SPARTAN BARRACKS.

PONDERING THESE DESOLATE RUINS, I CAN IMAGINE THE BLEAKNESS

OF BEING A YOUNG ROMAN SOLDIER STATIONED HERE 18 CENTURIES AGO.

DRIVING FURTHER EAST, WE REACH THE CITY OF DURHAM.

WITH ITS FAMOUS CATHEDRAL BUILT BY THE NORMANS,

IT ADDS ANOTHER LAYER TO THIS REGION'S HISTORY.

AS THEIR EMPIRE WAS FALLING IN THE FIFTH CENTURY,

THE ROMANS ABANDONED BRITAIN TO THE BARBARIANS.

AFTER CENTURIES OF RELATIVE CHAOS,

A CENTRAL GOVERNMENT WAS RE-ESTABLISHED BY THE NORMANS,

WHO INVADED FROM FRANCE IN 1066.

ALONG WITH STABILITY AND A CAPABLE RULE,

THE NORMANS BROUGHT WITH THEM THE PREVAILING

EUROPEAN STYLE OF ARCHITECTURE, ROMANESQUE.

HERE IN ENGLAND, THEY NAMED IT FOR

THE PEOPLE WHO BROUGHT IT -- NORMAN.

BEFORE VISITING THE CHURCH: AND LEARNING ABOUT NORMAN ARCHITECTURE,

WE'LL GET THE LAY OF THE LAND.

A SHARP BEND IN ITS RIVER PROTECTED MEDIEVAL DURHAM,

PROVIDING A MOAT ON THREE SIDES.

TODAY THE RIVER SEEMS TO PROTECT THE CITY

ONLY FROM THE MODERN WORLD.

FROM THIS RIVERSIDE PATH,

MUCH-ENJOYED BY RESIDENTS FOR A PEACEFUL LITTLE GET-AWAY,

WE CAN PONDER THE CATHEDRAL: AS APPROACHING MEDIEVAL PILGRIMS ONCE DID.

THE TANGLE OF STREETS LEADING UP TO THE CATHEDRAL,

WHILE RETAINING ITS MEDIEVAL ATMOSPHERE,

IS LIVELY.

THE CITY HOSTS THE COUNTRY'S THIRD-OLDEST UNIVERSITY.

ALONG WITH THE STUDENT VIBE,

DURHAM ALSO FEELS BLUE-COLLAR BECAUSE OF ITS

HISTORIC CONNECTION WITH THE MINING INDUSTRY.

FOR NEARLY A THOUSAND YEARS,

PILGRIMS HAVE SET THEIR SIGHTS ON THIS,

THE DURHAM CATHEDRAL, STANDING LIKE A MIGHTY FORTRESS.

BUILT AROUND THE YEAR 1100 TO HOUSE THE MUCH-VENERATED BONES

OF THE GREAT MISSIONARY MONK SAINT CUTHBERT,

IT OFFERS PERHAPS ENGLAND'S BEST

AND PUREST LOOK AT NORMAN ARCHITECTURE.

THE ARCHITECTURE IS UNUSUALLY HARMONIOUS

BECAUSE THE CHURCH WAS COMPLETED IN JUST 40 YEARS

AND SURVIVES ESSENTIALLY UNALTERED.

ROUND ARCHES AND ZIG-ZAG DECORATIONS

ARE TEXTBOOK NORMAN STYLE.

STROLL DOWN THE NAVE TO THE CENTER.

GAZE UP AT ONE OF: THE HIGHEST BELL TOWERS IN EUROPE.

WHEN THE NORMANS CONQUERED THE SAXONS

HERE IN ENGLAND BACK IN THE 11th CENTURY,

THEY BROUGHT WITH THEM MORE THAN JUST THEIR ARCHITECTURE.

THEY BROUGHT A WHOLE NEW ORDER.

AND THIS MIGHTY CHURCH, WAY UP HERE IN THE NORTH,

WAS MORE THAN A PLACE OF WORSHIP

AND A HOME FOR SAINT CUTHBERT'S BONES.

IT WAS AN UNAMBIGUOUS POLITICAL STATEMENT,

BOTH TO THE CONQUERED SAXONS AND TO THE SCOTS FURTHER NORTH.

THE NORMANS WERE HERE TO STAY.

GRAND MEDIEVAL CHURCHES AND THE ART THAT FILLS THEM

ARE A REMINDER THAT MONKS LIKE CUTHBERT

WERE THE INTELLECTUAL CANDLES WHO HELPED KEEP

SCHOLARSHIP FLICKERING THROUGH THE DARK AGES.

LATER, THAT KNOWLEDGE STRENGTHENED THE CHURCH

AND MADE WONDERS LIKE THE DURHAM CATHEDRAL POSSIBLE.

WHILE THIS FRESCO OF THE SAINT DATES FROM THE 12th CENTURY,

CUTHBERT DIED WAY BEFORE THAT, IN THE YEAR 687.

THE CATHEDRAL DISPLAYS THE SAINT'S COFFIN

AND TREASURES THAT WERE BURIED WITH HIM.

THIS FINE SAXON SASH WAS EMBROIDERED WITH

GOLD THREAD AND SILK, AND THIS IS THE EXQUISITE CROSS

THAT THIS LEADER OF THE EARLY CHRISTIAN CHURCH

IN NORTHERN ENGLAND WORE.

FOR A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE CATHEDRAL AND ITS SAINT,

WE'RE JOINED BY CANON STEPHEN CHERRY.

BUT THE CATHEDRAL IS CALLED THE SHRINE TO CUTHBERT.

WHAT DOES THAT MEAN TO YOU?

IT'S REALLY REMARKABLE THAT WE HAVE

THE BODY OF THE SAINT FROM SO LONG AGO

IN OUR CUSTODY HERE, AS IT WERE.

AND SO WHAT WE DO IS I THINK WE KIND OF

BOND WITH CUTHBERT'S SPIRIT.

WE BOND WITH: THAT DEEP SENSE OF HISTORY AND TRADITION

THAT CUTHBERT REPRESENTED.

HE WAS A MAN OF PROFOUND SPIRITUALITY

BUT ALSO VERY SERIOUS HUMAN STRUGGLE.

BEING CLOSE TO SAINT CUTHBERT MEANS TO ME

GETTING CLOSER TO JESUS CHRIST BECAUSE OF UNDERSTANDING

THE WAY IN WHICH JESUS WORKED THROUGH THE LIFE OF THIS MAN,

ALBEIT HE LIVED SO VERY MANY CENTURIES AGO.

FOR A THOUSAND YEARS, PASTORS AND PRIESTS

AND MINISTERS LIKE YOU HAVE BEEN

SERVING THE NEEDS OF THIS COMMUNITY.

THAT MUST BE KIND OF AN INSPIRATION IN ITSELF.

IT'S A VERY INSPIRING THING.

YOU THINK OF ALL THOSE YEARS,

500 YEARS BEFORE THE REFORMATION,

WHEN THE MASS WAS BEING CELEBRATED.

THEN A LITTLE HIATUS: AND THEN THE POST-REFORMATION CHURCH.

THAT TOO WAS SAYING THE MASS,

WE WERE CELEBRATING HOLY COMMUNION,

THE DAILY OFFERS HERE EVERY DAY, AND WE'RE STILL PART OF THAT.

WHEN YOU WALK THROUGH THE CATHEDRAL,

THERE'S A FEELING THAT IT'S VIBRANT AND ALIVE.

ABSOLUTELY, IT IS VIBRANT AND ALIVE.

WE'RE COMPLETELY COMMITTED TO WELCOMING ALL WHO COME.

WE'RE ENTIRELY COMMITTED TO ENGAGING WITH THE ARTS

AND CELEBRATING THE GOOD THINGS IN LIFE.

THAT FRESHNESS OF MISSION: IS INTEGRAL TO THE LIFE OF THE CATHEDRAL.

Steves: AS IF TO STRESS THAT POINT,

THE MEDIEVAL DURHAM CATHEDRAL IS ENLIVENED

WITH ART FROM OUR GENERATION AND FROM ITS COMMUNITY.

THIS WINDOW GIVES US A STRIKING OVERHEAD VIEW

OF THE LAST SUPPER,

AND THIS ONE CELEBRATES THE CHURCH'S 1,000th BIRTHDAY

WITH A SWEEP THROUGH LOCAL HISTORY AND INDUSTRY,

FROM MINING TO FARMING.

I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED OUR TRIP THROUGH NORTHERN ENGLAND,

FROM THE PRISTINE LAKE DISTRICT,

ALONG HADRIAN'S AWE-INSPIRING WALL,

TO DURHAM'S MAGNIFICENT CATHEDRAL.

WE'VE BEEN INSPIRED BY ENGLAND'S FASCINATING PAST

WHILE ENJOYING ITS CHARMING PRESENT.

AS WE'VE SEEN HERE IN THE NORTH OF ENGLAND,

YOU DON'T NEED BIG CITIES: FOR RICHLY REWARDING TRAVEL EXPERIENCES.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

)

HAIR GOOD?

[ LAUGHS ]

Man: A LITTLE TRIM JUST ON THE --

[ LAUGHS ]

Guide: ...WITH A SHOVEL, IS IT?

Steves: SORRY, I'M JUST --

Man: YOU'RE NEVER GOING TO HAVE A FOOD SHOW, YOU KNOW.

THE SCOTS ARE COMING!