America's Test Kitchen

-Today on "America's Test Kitchen," we're cooking in the air fryer.

Lan makes Bridget spicy fried-chicken sandwiches.

Jack challenges Bridget to a tasting of tonic water.

And Becky makes Julia Parmesan, rosemary, and black pepper French fries.

It's all coming up right here on "America's Test Kitchen."

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-I love a good chicken sandwich, especially when it's a spicy chicken sandwich.

And I'm in for a treat today -- I think -- because Lan is here, and she's going to show me how to make spicy fried-chicken sandwiches but using the air fryer.

-Bridget, you're definitely in for a treat today.

We're going to get crispy-chicken sandwiches in like less than half an hour.

-Okay.

So it's fast food at home?

-Yeah.

The best.

One of the most important parts of a fried-chicken sandwich is that crispy crust, right?

-Mm-hmm.

-The first thing we're gonna do is start our crispy coating.

And we're going to start it with a cup of panko.

Because we're air-frying, we don't have oil there, but you need some oil.

You need that richness that gets absorbed.

And so we're going to get that from 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.

And I'm just going to pour this right in.

Give it a quick stir.

And I just want this to be nicely combined.

So this looks nicely coated.

I'm just going to pop this into the microwave to help them start crisping.

I'm going to microwave this until the crumbs pick up a light golden color.

That takes anywhere between 1 to 3 minutes, and I'll stop halfway through to give them a stir.

I don't know if you can hear this, but it's sizzling a tiny bit, and it's just... -Sounds like my breakfast cereal.

-[ Laughs ] Snap, crackle, and pop?

And it's picked up just a tiny bit of color.

That's perfect.

-Lovely.

-So, I'm just going to transfer this to a shallow bowl.

That's going to help the crumbs cool a little faster and also makes dredging easier.

-Great.

-Next step is the glue, as it were, to adhere those crumbs to the chicken.

If we were to do this traditionally, there would be that three-step method -- right?

-- where you've got your flour, your egg wash, and then you go into the crumbs.

-A bound breading.

-Yeah, it's a little bit messy, so we're going to do something that's a little bit faster and requires fewer dishes.

-Great.

-I'm going to start with one large egg and 1 tablespoon of flour.

And that's our flour and egg all in one.

And what happens when you do that three-step process is, as soon as you dip the dredged cutlet into the egg, you're forming a batter.

And so we're going to skip the extra bowl and just make the batter in one bowl.

Since we have this here, we're also going to take this opportunity to flavor that batter.

Here's where the spice comes in.

-Nice.

-I've got 2 tablespoons of hot sauce.

And you can use your favorite hot sauce here.

I've also got 1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder, 1/4 teaspoon of kosher salt and 1/8 teaspoon of black pepper.

I'm just going to whisk those together.

All I'm looking for here is to work out all those lumps of flour so that we have a nice, even batter.

Okay.

That looks pretty good.

So, now for our chicken.

I'm going to make four sandwiches here from two 8-ounce chicken breasts.

These are boneless, skinless breasts.

You can see that there's kind of a thicker end and a thinner end, and that end is going to take longer to cook.

That'll dry out and overcook.

So to make sure that they cook evenly, I'm just going to pound them out.

But before I do that, I want to cover them so that we don't get any icky splatters and just a meat pounder.

I'm just really evening them out more than anything.

This looks great.

So, I just want to have these crosswise now that they're pounded to make four equal pieces.

That looks pretty good to me.

-And you can get a lot better idea of it pounding it first and then cutting.

-Yeah, you don't want to guess and then find out you've got one that's way too big and the other is way too small.

-I have done that before.

Absolutely.

-Yeah.

I'm going to pat these dry.

These need just a little bit of seasoning.

And I'm going to season these by eye.

I like to use kosher salt for this.

The grains are coarser, so you can actually feel the grains as they leave your hand.

You know how much you're using, but they're also slower to dissolve on the chicken, so you can actually see how much salt has landed in each part.

I'm just holding my hand about maybe 6, 8 inches above the chicken, and I'm looking for a nice, uniform coating.

And you can see that salt is staying there, so I can get a good idea of how much I've used.

Would you do me a favor?

Do you want to pepper these before I flip them over?

-I was hoping you'd ask.

-Yeah.

-All right.

You say when.

-That looks great.

So, we'll flip these over and season the other side.

Next up, we're just going to dredge.

And I want to use one hand for the wet and one hand for the dry.

It just keeps everything a little bit neater.

So I want to let excess batter drip from the chicken.

And that's looking pretty good.

We'll go right into this bowl of crumbs.

And I just want to press these crumbs right into that chicken to make sure they adhere.

All right, last piece.

And we have just enough panko to make a nice, generous layer.

So, I'm going to wash my hands, and then we'll get cooking.

-Great.

-Bridget, here's my coffee maker.

-You're making a lot of coffee.

I'm very excited.

-Right?

This is our air fryer here.

And I'm fairly new to this, but I'm slowly becoming a convert.

It's so quick and easy.

-Great.

-So I'm going to turn this on.

Not all models require preheating, but this one works better with the preheat.

-Mm-hmm.

-I'm just gonna select air fry.

Now we're going to cook these at 400 degrees.

And depending on your air fryer, it's going to take 12 to 16 minutes.

-Mm-hmm.

-Whenever I see a range on these recipes, I always select the lowest number so I can go in and check and make sure that it's not overcooked and add more time if it needs it.

-Okay.

-So I'll set this to 12 minutes And we'll set the temperature to 400 degrees.

Hit start.

[ Air fryer whirring ] It's preheating.

This preheat cycle goes so fast.

It's not like the oven where it's going to take 15, 20 minutes.

This is going to take maybe three.

-Gotcha.

And this is basically a small convection oven.

-Yeah, air fryers are great because you're getting nice heat in a concentrated space.

And so the radiant heat in there is really effective.

But the fan blows moisture away from the food and helps it brown that much faster.

-Gotcha.

[ Air fryer beeps ] -Okay.

We're ready.

Slide this out a little bit more.

I want to make sure there's space in between each piece of chicken... -Right.

-...so that the air can circulate.

-Very important.

[ Air fryer beeps ] -I'm going to flip this chicken about halfway through.

Bridget, it has been 12 minutes, and these are done.

-I heard a ding.

-Don't they look great?

-They do look great.

-Yeah.

Right?

Don't sound so surprised.

-Well, I do not have an air fryer.

I'm very intrigued by them.

But you have to do something pretty special to take up space in my tiny kitchen.

-Fair enough.

So, I want to check these and make sure they're cooked through, and I'm looking for 160.

Great.

Let's get these out of here.

-Lovely.

Oh, those look like they just came right out of the skillet.

-Yeah.

They're beautiful.

While this air fryer is still hot, I'm going to toast our buns in here, as well.

-It's a fryer and a toaster?

-It is a fryer and a toaster.

-It's a fryer and a toaster.

-So, this recipe makes four sandwiches, clearly, but I'm just going to toast two since there's two of us.

-Okay.

-So I'm only going to eat one sandwich, I guess.

[ Both laugh ] -We can toast up more for seconds.

-[ Laughing ] Great.

-This actually only takes maybe a minute or two.

I'm going to set this for one.

[ Air fryer beeps ] -Ooh.

-While that's working, I'm going to make a quick sauce for us.

I've got 1/4 cup of mayo, and to that, I'm adding 1 tablespoon of hot sauce.

Great.

Nice and simple.

Look at this.

-That's actually a better job than my oven does at toasting.

-So, let's build these sandwiches.

-Okay.

-Going to start with a little -- or a lot -- of the creamy, spicy sauce.

-You do whatever you think is right for me.

-Oh, all right.

-And I will judge you accordingly after.

[ Both laugh ] -That doesn't make me nervous at all.

[ Both laugh ] You can hear how crispy it is.

-Absolutely.

-We've got 2 cups of shredded iceberg, and you can use as much or as little as you want.

-Great.

-So, I've got 1/4 cup of pickled jalapeos here, and I'm just going to add a few of them to yours.

-That's a sight to behold.

-Oh.

-Are you a squisher?

-I am.

-You got a squish.

Super crunchy.

-Mm-hmm.

-Crisp and crunchy.

Chicken actually tastes like something.

It tastes seasoned.

-Mm-hmm.

And the nice balanced heat, it kind of hits you up front, and then it mellows, but it's warm.

-You were saying, right -- the crunch of the lettuce and the crunch of the chicken together... -Yeah.

It's great.

-Here comes the heat.

Little bit of heat.

Loving it.

Well, I'm sold.

Thanks, Lan.

-You're welcome.

-If you'd like to make crunchy and spicy chicken sandwiches straight out of the air fryer, first, toast panko for a crisp texture, add a little flour to the egg mixture to help with binding, and add in the heat at every step.

So, from "America's Test Kitchen," right out of the air fryer, it's spicy fried-chicken sandwiches.

-Who you calling an air fryer?

-Air fryer.

[ Both laugh ] Air fryer.

[ Both laugh ] I've been called worse.

-The letter T is incredibly important.

Without a T, a T-shirt would just be a shirt, a BLT would have no tomato, and my favorite beverage in the entire world would mean that I'm just drinking gin straight from the bottle.

So, Jack's here, and he's bringing the T -- tonic -- to the equation.

-Yeah, we did a tasting.

We did it two ways -- with the G and without the G. -Okay.

-You're getting without the G today.

-Oh, shoot.

-[ Laughs ] So, we sampled eight brands.

I brought four of them here.

Four artisanal brands, boutique brands.

A little bit more expensive.

Tonic is having a moment.

-It sure is.

-And then four from the supermarket that are more familiar.

-There used to be like two when we grew up.

-Yeah.

-Right?

Two brands.

That was it.

-That was it.

I want you to dig in, and you can sip.

You're going to want to, one, think about bitterness.

So that is the defining quality for tonic water.

It was a curative.

It prevented and treated malaria.

Derived from the bark of a tree, and it's an alkaloid compound, so it's very bitter.

There's sugar in there because they need to balance out all of that bitterness.

-Right.

-And then the botanicals.

So, tonic water evolved over the 19th century as British colonists in India decided to make it a more interesting beverage.

And so you're going to taste citrus, herbs, lemongrass, juniper, maybe mothballs.

You never know.

[ Chuckles ] -How old is this tonic water?

-We just opened it.

-Okay.

-It's nicely chilled.

I didn't want to put ice in there because I didn't want it to get diluted at all.

I thought they were surprisingly different.

-Well, I have to admit, I don't think I've ever tasted tonic water all on its own.

It's usually mixed with something.

They're all sweet.

-I'll tell you, some of them are less bitter, and we did a really interesting test with black light.

Quinine is actually fluorescent.

And so we wanted to see, could we see how much quinine was in them?

-Really?

-And, in fact, the one that was the least bitter also was the one that didn't glow when we did the black-light test.

Otherwise, they all seem to have a similar amount of glowing and a similar amount of quinine.

But we did notice that one of them really felt like it was less bitter, and according to the black-light test, it was less quinine.

-I think this is the one that's less bitter.

-Some of the botanicals are fermented and that will give you a funkier flavor.

I will say tasters liked a cleaner, citrus-forward, you know, lemons and oranges and were less interested in fetid and fermented.

-Yes!

Yes.

-[ Laughs ] -Imagine that.

-Yeah, surprising.

The sugar will also impact your perception of bitterness.

As you might imagine, the ones with less sugar will seem more bitter, even if they're not actually more bitter.

-Right.

-Just means that they have less sugar in them.

We liked a kind of sweet spot here -- pardon the pun.

-Right.

-A moderate amount of sugar.

There were some that were actually too sweet for our tasters and some that were not sweet enough.

-Yeah, I'm really struggling with this one.

-And you're struggling because you don't know what to think of them?

-I don't know -- My mind cannot -- I can't compute this.

Like, I don't know how to wrap my head around this tasting.

-Is there anything that you're liking?

-No.

[ Both laugh ] -Well, this is going to be easy, then.

-Well, some are okay.

This one, it's sticking out to me, and I'm not sure I entirely am enjoying it.

I'd say this is my favorite.

-Okay.

-I'd say this is my favorite.

This is my least favorite.

If only there was some sort of liquid that we could cut the tonic water with.

Serve it with ice.

Maybe a little lime wedge.

Maybe then I'd have a -- I'd have a bigger opinion.

-All right.

So, you want to see how you did?

-Yeah.

-Well, let's -- let's see what you picked.

-This one first?

-Yeah, this one first.

-All right.

-Congratulations.

Gin is in your future.

You picked the winner.

-Yay!

-[ Laughs ] -Whew!

That -- That was a close one.

-Yeah.

So, this is from Polar.

We just felt like it was clean, it was citrusy.

It was bitter enough and sweet enough.

It was tonic water.

-This is Polar?

-Yeah.

-You can get that at the grocery store.

-Yeah.

It was also -- yes, very inexpensive.

-Yeah.

-So the fancy tonics didn't necessarily do any better in this tasting.

-Fantastic.

All right.

So, this one -- I don't know.

-So this was Jack Rudy.

This is the one that, in the black-light test, wasn't glowing.

And we think it has less quinine.

It has less bitter.

And it just felt like there was something out of whack.

-This is my least favorite.

-So, you like things sweet.

I know that about you.

And that has the least amount of sugar.

-Yeah.

-And so it just wasn't sweet enough, and it felt like it wasn't balanced properly.

-And then, this is the one I said there was something that wasn't right.

-So, this is Fentimans.

It's the only one where they ferment the botanicals.

And you might imagine you get different flavors when you ferment herbs and citrus and juniper.

-And that's why you add gin.

And if you want to buy the winning tonic water, it is from Polar.

And you can find out more information on our website.

-As its name suggests, an air fryer can make food taste fried without using lots of oil.

And today, Becky is going to show us how to use an air fryer to make the ultimate fried food, French fries.

-Oh, I love French fries.

-Me too.

-And these aren't just ordinary French fries, which are amazing, as you know, but we're going to take these up a notch and add some rosemary and Parmesan and black pepper.

-Yum!

-I know.

So, we're starting with russet potatoes.

We're going to do a pound and a half.

And russets are great for fries.

They get really nice and crispy on the outside.

They're light and fluffy on the inside.

And so I'm just going to cut these up.

I'm going to leave the skins on because those get a nice earthiness.

-Yeah, I like it when the skins are left on.

-Yeah.

Also, we don't have to peel them.

-Yeah.

Ding ding ding!

-Yes.

So, I want these to be pretty substantial.

I want them about half an inch thick.

So I'm going to... -A sturdy fry.

-A sturdy fry.

That's right.

All right.

So that's roughly half an inch.

Let's do one more of those.

These are big guys.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then we'll cut them into 1/2-inch planks like this.

All right.

So, I've got a couple other potatoes that I cut ahead of time.

-Okay.

-And we're going to put these in some cool water.

-Mm-hmm.

-And I just want to give them a good rinse.

I'm trying to rinse off the surface starch because that's going to help the potatoes get nice and crispy.

And you can see the water is getting a little bit cloudy there.

-Yeah.

-All right.

I'm going to drain these.

-Okay.

All right, back into the bowl, and I'm going to add some more cold water.

I want to rinse these again.

I want to make sure we get all that starch off.

All right.

So I'm going to give them a little swish.

It's such an easy step, but it makes a tremendous difference.

-Yeah.

-All right.

This water is looking pretty clear.

-Mm-hmm.

-If it was still cloudy or milky, I would repeat the rinsing again and just keep on going until that water gets clear.

But that looks good.

So I'm going to drain these.

Back into the bowl.

All right.

We're not done with the water yet.

Now I'm going to switch to hot water.

We're going to let these soak for 10 minutes.

So the hot water will help to rinse off some surface sugars that are on the exterior of the potatoes.

And those sugars can turn kind of dry and brown and leathery.

And then some of the water will also get inside the strands of starch inside the potatoes, and that'll help create a nice, fluffy, soft interior.

So it's been 10 minutes, our potatoes soaked, and now they're in the colander.

-Mm-hmm.

-And we're going to preheat our air fryer.

Not all air fryers have that function, but if it does have a preheat function, you want to use it.

-Mm-hmm.

-All right.

So I'm just going to hit "air fry."

We're going to be cooking them for 8 minutes at 350 degrees.

So I'm going to hit "start."

And you'll see that it's preheating.

That's going to take about 3 minutes.

And it'll let you know when you're ready to add the food.

-Exactly.

It's gonna beep when it's ready.

So, while that's going, let's get our potatoes ready to go in.

We want to put our potatoes onto a triple layer of paper towels.

We want them to be nice and dry when they go into the air fryer.

That's going to be one of the keys to getting these nice and crisp.

-Well, that makes sense... -Yeah.

-...because water is the enemy of browning.

-That's right.

So -- unh!

-- we got to get all that off.

[ Both laugh ] We want these as crispy as possible, right?

That's the key to a great fry.

So just take our time, give them a nice pat-down.

Okay.

Those look pretty dry to me.

Let's put them in a bowl.

Okay.

You said we don't need much oil, and you're right.

I'm only adding a tablespoon of vegetable oil now.

-Love it.

Thing about deep-frying potatoes, you're talking about 2, 3, sometimes 4 quarts of oil.

-Yeah.

-So 4 quarts down to a tablespoon is pretty dramatic.

-Yep.

That's a huge difference.

So, I just want to toss those in the bowl.

I want to get them nice and evenly coated with oil so they get nice and brown on every surface.

All right.

Let's get our fries going.

Just gonna pull out that.

-All preheated.

-All preheated.

All we need to do is put these in.

Nice even layer.

-Oh, I hear a little sizzle.

-Yep.

Back in.

It's going to go for 8 minutes, and then we'll come back and give them a stir.

-Okay.

-All right.

So, our time is just about up.

There we go.

I'll take these out.

All right.

You can see they really haven't changed that much.

-No, they look almost exactly the same, except now they're steaming.

-Yeah, that's what we expected.

I just want to take them out and give them a really nice stir.

And it's really important to transfer them to a bowl to do this, because they might break up if we tried to do it inside the air fryer.

I'm going to put them back in the fryer for 5 to 10 minutes.

So let's set it for 5 minutes.

[ Air fryer beeps ] And we want them to just start to turn a little bit blond.

They might get a little bit brown at the edges, and then we'll come back and take a look.

-Okay.

-So, during those five minutes, let's work on our flavorings.

So, I have an ounce and a half of Parmesan cheese.

-Mm-hmm.

Yes, please.

-I'm just gonna grate that up.

See how fine that cheese gets?

-Mm-hmm.

-And that's going to melt all over those fries.

-Yes, please.

-[ Laughs ] All right.

I think that's pretty good, Julia.

I have a couple little nubbins there.

-Oh, snacks.

-I think we could take care of those ourselves.

-Yeah.

Like how I'm pulling them out?

-[ Laughs ] Like a little mouse.

Okay.

[ Both laugh ] All right.

I also have some fresh rosemary, one of my favorite ingredients.

-Mmm!

Rosemary and Parmesan?

-The way I like to do rosemary is, I just like to strip the leaves off the stem like that.

-Mmm.

-We need 4 teaspoons.

We'll just get a bunch here.

If we have extra, that's fine.

-So, how finely are you going to chop that?

-Pretty finely.

I want it to really coat those fries.

-Mm-hmm.

-Nice, fine mince.

And the more you chop it, you can smell it even more.

Those aromatic oils start to come out.

-Smells delicious.

-Yeah, it really does.

All right.

So that looks pretty good.

-Looks great.

-4 teaspoons of rosemary.

Let's put that in a bowl.

All right.

It's been 5 minutes.

Let's take a peek.

Okay.

Those look good.

They haven't changed that much.

And that's that's what we want.

-They haven't changed at all!

-Just a little bit.

You see how they're -- they're tiny bit brown in some areas.

-Oh, yeah.

-And they're more blond than white.

-Yeah.

They definitely look drier.

-Yes, for sure.

So let's put them back into the bowl for a second here.

-Mmm.

They sound crisper.

-Yeah, they do.

So now let's start adding some of those flavorings.

So I'm adding 1/4 cup of the Parmesan cheese.

That's about a third of what we grated earlier.

-Ooh.

-Now when we added all the Parmesan at the end not all of it adhered to the potatoes, so incorporating it during the cooking process makes this really nice kind of Parmesan crust on the potatoes.

-Ooh!

-Yeah.

-Layers of Parmesan.

-That's right.

That's right.

And layers of rosemary, too.

We're gonna add part of the rosemary -- a tablespoon.

Just one more tablespoon of oil.

That's all we're going to use for the whole recipe.

And then 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and black pepper.

Just going to toss those up.

Oh, my gosh, Julia, that smells so good.

-It smells delicious.

-Already.

Oh, my gosh.

So, I'm gonna be a little bit gentle here.

I just -- I don't want to break them up too much if I can avoid it.

Okay.

That looks really good.

All the Parmesan is coating the fries.

Can smell the rosemary.

-Mm-hmm.

-Let's put them back into the fryer.

Okay.

Now I'm going to crank the heat up a little bit.

I'm going to put it on 400 degrees.

Okay.

So those are going to go for 15 to 20 minutes.

And I'm going to stir them every five minutes.

I want them to get nice and evenly brown and crisp.

Okay.

It's been 15 minutes.

Let's take a peek.

I've been stirring them every five minutes.

They're looking good.

-Are they?

-Yeah.

Let's take a look.

Oh, wow.

-Oh, goodness!

Those look picture-perfect.

-Those are amazing.

-Yeah.

-Very happy with those.

Okay.

I'm calling those done.

Oh, you can hear how crispy they are.

Oh, my gosh.

-Hard to believe you didn't deep-fry those, Becky.

-Oh, they're gorgeous.

-Mm-hmm.

All right.

Let's flavor them once again I have that remaining teaspoon of rosemary.

We're going to get some of that nice fresh rosemary taste.

-Mm-hmm.

-And then another 1/4 cup of Parmesan.

-[ Laughs ] -Save a little bit to put on at the end.

-I am loving the cheese on these French fries.

-Oh, yeah.

Let's put them on a nice platter.

-Oh-ho-ho!

-Ooh.

I want to put on this last little bit of Parmesan on top.

-Gorgeous.

-Ooh.

-Oh.

-All right.

-All right.

-Cheers.

-[ Laughing ] Cheers.

-Mmm!

-Ooh.

-Mm-hmm.

-They're nice and fluffy on the inside, and I love that russet flavor with the Parmesan and the rosemary.

Sometimes rosemary can taste a bit harsh, but not here.

It really is lovely with that Parmesan.

-And you know what?

These fries are crispy.

And you can hear it.

-Yep.

-They're crispy on the outside, but they have that nice, soft creaminess on the inside.

-They're crisp.

-Mm-hmm.

-These are so good.

I mean, I'm not afraid to say it.

-Mnh-mnh.

-The black pepper, the Parmesan, and the rosemary.

This is a winner, for sure.

-Becky, these are wonderful.

Thank you.

-You're welcome.

-So, if you want to make the ultimate air-fried French fries, cut russet potatoes into 1/2-inch-thick fries, soak them in hot water before cooking, and toss them regularly throughout the cooking time.

From "America's Test Kitchen," a foolproof recipe for Parmesan, rosemary and black pepper French fries.

You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with our product reviews and select episodes at our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv.

Ooh, these are something else.

-Yeah, they're good.

-I really like the Parm.

-I do, too.

I love it.

-Let us help you with dinner tonight.

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Plugr -- from professional kitchens to your home.

-Sailing with American Queen Voyages brings you to mighty rivers and unique expeditions, where passionate explorers can discover the continent of North America.

You can learn more about our voyages at AQVoyages.com, or contact your travel adviser.

-Sur La Table, where you can discover an assortment of provisions for your next meal or gathering, from cookware and tools from a wide variety of kitchen brands to hands-on cooking classes.

Visit us at surlatable.com.