HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, WE'RE IN ENGLAND, ENJOYING
MY TWO FAVORITE CITIES OUTSIDE OF LONDON --
BATH AND YORK.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
YORK FEELS MORE MEDIEVAL, WHILE BATH IS GEORGIAN.
BOTH TOWNS GO BACK TO ROMAN TIMES.
EACH TOWN IS PACKED WITH WAY MORE BLOCKBUSTER SIGHTS
THAN CITIES THEIR SIZE DESERVE.
AND EACH ARE ABOUT TWO HOURS BY TRAIN FROM LONDON.
IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR ENGLISH CITY THRILLS
WITHOUT THE EXPENSE AND INTENSITY OF LONDON,
HEAD FOR BATH AND YORK -- ENGLAND'S EASY URBAN DELIGHTS.
IN BATH, WE'LL EXPLORE A ROMAN HOT SPRINGS,
IMMERSE OURSELVES IN GEORGIAN ELEGANCE,
AND CRUISE THE CANALS.
THEN WE ZIP OVER TO YORK,
WHERE WE'LL MARVEL AT ENGLAND'S
FINEST GOTHIC CHURCH,
RAMBLE YORK'S WONDERFULLY PRESERVED MEDIEVAL QUARTER,
MEET THE MORRIS DANCERS, AND LOTS MORE.
THE ISLAND OF GREAT BRITAIN: INCLUDES ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, AND WALES.
FROM LONDON, BATH IS A SHORT RIDE TO THE WEST,
AND YORK IS JUST TO THE NORTH.
250 YEARS AGO, BATH WAS
THE TREND-SETTING HOLLYWOOD OF BRITAIN.
IF EVER A TOWN ENJOYED LOOKING IN THE MIRROR, BATH'S THE ONE.
AND ITS NARCISSISM IS JUSTIFIED.
LOCALS BRAG THAT THEY HAVE MORE "GOVERNMENT-LISTED,"
OR PROTECTED, HISTORIC BUILDINGS PER CAPITA
THAN ANY OTHER TOWN IN ENGLAND.
THE ENTIRE CITY, BUILT OF THE CREAMY LIMESTONE
CALLED "BATH STONE,"
BEAMS IN ITS COVER-GIRL COMPLEXION.
AN ARCHITECTURAL CHORUS LINE,
IT'S A TRIUMPH OF THE 18th-CENTURY GEORGIAN STYLE.
PROUD LOCALS REMIND VISITORS: THAT THE TOWN IS ROUTINELY BANNED
FROM THE "BRITAIN IN BLOOM" CONTEST
TO GIVE OTHER TOWNS A CHANCE TO WIN.
EVEN WITH ITS MOBS OF TOURISTS --
2 MILLION A YEAR -- BATH IS A JOY TO VISIT.
GOOD-LOOKING TOWNS ARE NOT RARE,
BUT FEW COMBINE BEAUTY AND HOSPITALITY
AS WELL AS BATH.
VISITORS HAVE BEEN ENJOYING BATH FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
EVEN BEFORE THE ROMANS ARRIVED IN THE 1st CENTURY,
THE PLACE WAS FAMOUS FOR ITS HOT SPRINGS.
FOR THE ANCIENT ROMANS, IT WAS A POPULAR SPA TOWN.
THE TOWN'S IMPORTANCE: CARRIED THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES, WHEN IT WAS CONSIDERED
THE RELIGIOUS CAPITAL OF BRITAIN.
IN 973, KING EDGAR -- CALLED THE FIRST KING OF ENGLAND --
WAS CROWNED RIGHT HERE.
LATER, BATH PROSPERED AS A WOOL TOWN.
WITH THE MONEY IT MADE: FROM WOOL, BATH BUILT ITS GRAND ABBEY.
THIS CHURCH -- THE LAST GREAT
MEDIEVAL CHURCH BUILT IN ENGLAND --
IS 500 YEARS OLD.
THE ABBEY'S FACADE FEATURES: A VERY LITERAL JACOB'S LADDER,
WITH ANGELS GOING UP...
AND DOWN.
THE INTERIOR FEATURES BREEZY FAN VAULTING
AND IS LIT: WITH ENOUGH STAINED GLASS TO EARN IT THE NICKNAME
"LANTERN OF THE WEST."
WITH ITS BROAD WINDOWS AND STRONG VERTICAL LINES,
IT'S A FINE EXAMPLE OF LATE PERPENDICULAR GOTHIC.
BATH'S HEYDAY PASSED,
AND BY THE MIDDLE OF THE 1600s, ITS POPULATION
HAD DROPPED TO ABOUT 1,500 PEOPLE --
JUST A HUDDLE OF HUTS AT THE BASE OF ITS ABBEY.
ITS RESIDENTS WERE OBLIVIOUS TO THE FACT
WAS COVERING UP THE RUINS: OF AN ANCIENT ROMAN SPA.
THEN, IN 1687, AN ENGLISH QUEEN STRUGGLING WITH INFERTILITY
CAME HERE AND BATHED.
WITHIN ABOUT 10 MONTHS, SHE GAVE BIRTH TO A SON.
SOON AFTER THAT, QUEEN ANNE CAME HERE TO TREAT HER GOUT.
WITH ALL THIS ROYAL INTEREST,
BATH THE SPA TOWN WAS REBORN.
THE REVITALIZED TOWN PROSPERED AS A RESORT.
MOST OF THE BUILDINGS YOU'LL SEE TODAY ARE FROM THE 18th CENTURY.
LOCAL ARCHITECTS WERE INSPIRED BY THE ITALIAN ARCHITECT
ANDREA PALLADIO,
TO BUILD A "NEW ROME."
THE TOWN BOOMED, AND THE STREETS WERE BUILT
NOT WITH SCRAWNY SIDEWALKS,
BUT WITH BROAD "PARADES,"
UPON WHICH GENTLEMEN WOULD STROLL
AND WOMEN IN THEIR STYLISH DRESSES
COULD SPREAD THEIR FASHIONABLE TAILS.
THIS IS THE ROYAL CRESCENT.
DATING FROM THE 1770s,
THESE ARE THE FIRST GEORGIAN CONDOS.
"GEORGIAN" IS BRITISH FOR "NEOCLASSICAL."
AS YOU CRUISE THE CRESCENT,
IMAGINE YOU'RE ONE OF BATH'S UPPER CRUST.
WHAT APPEARS TO BE A SEAMLESS FRONT LAWN
IS ACTUALLY AN OPTICAL TRICK.
THE HIDDEN WALL, CALLED A "HA-HA" FENCE,
KEEPS SHEEP AND PICNICKING PEASANTS OUT
WITHOUT CREATING AN EYESORE.
THE GEORGIAN HOUSE, AT THE PRESTIGIOUS ADDRESS
"NUMBER ONE, ROYAL CRESCENT,"
GIVES AN INTIMATE PEEK: INTO THE LAVISH LIFESTYLES OF THIS AGE.
VOLUNTEERS IN EACH ROOM ARE DETERMINED TO FILL YOU IN
ON ALL THE FASCINATING DETAILS.
Woman: GEORGIAN LADIES WERE EXTREMELY FASHIONABLE --
NOT FASHIONS AS WE WOULD THINK OF THEM TODAY,
BECAUSE IF THEY WERE VERY FASHIONABLE WOMEN,
THEY WOULD WEAR THE FRENCH WIGS.
AND THEY DIDN'T START UNTIL THIS PART OF THE HEAD,
SO THIS HAIR HERE WAS SHAVED OFF.
THAT MEANT YOUR EYEBROWS WERE IN THE WRONG PLACE.
THEY HAD TO BE SHAVED OFF,
AND THEN YOU HAD LITTLE MOUSE-SKIN EYEBROWS
STUCK ON FURTHER UP THE HEAD.
Steves: AND THE KITCHEN CAME WITH ALL
THE LATEST GEORGIAN GIZMOS.
SO WHAT IS THIS MECHANISM?
THIS IS A TURN-SPIT, POWERED BY THE DOG.
THE DOG WAS BRED SPECIALLY FOR THE WHEEL.
HE WENT IN FOR TWO HOURS,
AND THEN ANOTHER DOG WOULD COME IN TO REPLACE HIM,
UNTIL THE JOINT OF MEAT WAS COOKED.
SO HE SPINS THE MEAT?
YES.
AND IF HE STOPS WALKING, WHAT IF HE JUST SAYS,
"I'M GOING TO GO ON STRIKE"?
WELL, FIRST OF ALL, PROD HIM WITH STICKS.
AND THEN, LAST RESORT --
SHOVEL A COAL IN THERE --: HOT COALS, HE RUNS.
SO A NICE STEAK, YOU'VE GOT TO THANK YOUR DOG?
YES, EXACTLY.
A BLOCK AWAY IS ANOTHER FINE BIT OF GEORGIAN ARCHITECTURE
CALLED "THE CIRCUS."
IT FEELS LIKE A COLOSSEUM TURNED INSIDE OUT.
ITS DORIC, IONIC, AND CORINTHIAN CAPITAL DECORATIONS
PAY HOMAGE TO ITS CLASSICAL INSPIRATION.
SERVANTS LIVED IN ATTIC ROOMS
JUST BELOW THE CHARACTERISTIC CHIMNEYS --
ONE FOR EACH HEATED ROOM.
THE ANCIENT ROMAN BATHS ARE: THE TOWN'S SIGHTSEEING CENTERPIECE.
HIGH SOCIETY HERE GOES ALL THE WAY BACK
TO ROMAN TIMES, WHEN BIG SHOTS
ENJOYED THE MINERAL SPRINGS AT BATH.
FROM LONDINIUM, ROMANS TRAVELED TO AQUAE SULIS,
AS THE CITY WAS CALLED, TO TAKE A BATH.
EVENTUALLY, THE NAME BECAME SIMPLY, BATH.
THIS ANCIENT ROMAN POOL IS STILL LINED WITH ITS ORIGINAL LEAD --
NINE TONS OF IT.
YOU CAN ALMOST IMAGINE THOSE ROMANS
LOUNGING AROUND, SIPPING WINE,
SCHMOOZING, JUST LIKE THEY DID IN FARAWAY ROME.
TODAY, A FINE MUSEUM SURROUNDS THE ANCIENT BATH.
ROMAN ARTIFACTS: AND THE REMAINS OF A TEMPLE PEDIMENT
EVOKE A SOPHISTICATED CITY.
THE HOT THERMAL WATER STILL BUBBLES --
AS IT HAS FOR NEARLY 2,000 YEARS --
PAST ANCIENT ROMAN BRICKS.
ENJOY SOME QUALITY TIME LOOKING INTO THE EYES OF MINERVA,
GODDESS OF THE HOT SPRINGS.
AFTER ROME FELL IN THE 5th CENTURY,
THESE OLD POOLS SILTED UP,
AND BATH WAS FORGOTTEN AS A SPA.
OVER A THOUSAND YEARS LATER,
WHEN THOSE ENGLISH QUEENS CAME HERE TO SOAK
AND BELIEVED THAT ITS CURATIVE WATERS ACTUALLY HELPED THEM
BECOME PREGNANT AND DEAL WITH THEIR GOUT,
WORD OF ITS WONDER WATERS SPREAD,
AND BATH WAS BACK ON THE ARISTOCRATIC MAP.
HIGH SOCIETY SOON TURNED THE CITY
INTO ONE BIG PLEASURE PALACE.
THE PUMP ROOM, AN ELEGANT GEORGIAN SALON
JUST ABOVE THE ROMAN BATHS,
OFFERS THE VISITOR'S BEST CHANCE TO RAISE A PINKY
IN THIS NEO-CLASSICAL GRANDEUR.
DROP BY FOR A FANCY, THREE-TIERED AFTERNOON TEA...
OR JUST SIP THE CURATIVE SPA WATER.
OK, SO BATH WATER?
YES, THIS IS BATH WATER.
GENERALLY THIS HAS GOT ABOUT: 43 DIFFERENT MINERALS IN IT.
THINGS LIKE ARSENIC, BROMIDE, CALCIUM, LITHIUM.
IT'S MADE OF A LOT OF EARTH METALS,
VERY, VERY HIGH MINERAL CONTENT.
THIS WATER IS ABOUT 10,000 YEARS OLD,
COMES TO A TEMPERATURE OF ABOUT
116 FAHRENHEIT,
SO ABOUT 44 CELSIUS.
AND WHAT DOES IT DO FOR ME?
IS IT GOING TO MAKE ME LIVE FOREVER?
GENERALLY, IT'LL CURE
A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT ILLNESSES,
THINGS LIKE RHEUMATISM, GOUT,
IF YOU'RE SUFFERING FROM IMPETIGO,
ANGINA.
SO, MAINLY, IT'S -- IT'S ALMOST
A SORT OF PAINKILLER, IN A WAY.
IT TASTES BAD ENOUGH TO BE HEALTHY, I GUESS.
CHEERS!
THANKS.
ABOVE IT ALL STANDS A STATUE OF BEAU NASH,
BATH'S "MASTER OF CEREMONIES" IN THE 1700s.
NASH WAS A ONE-MAN TOURISM PROMOTION DEPARTMENT --
ORGANIZING THE DAILY REGIMEN OF THE ARISTOCRATIC VISITORS,
SPIFFING UP THE CITY, AND BANNING SWORDS.
BATH'S RELAXATION THEME SURVIVES TO THIS DAY.
ITS NATURAL THERMAL SPA IS ONCE AGAIN OPEN TO THE PUBLIC,
AND TRANQUIL PARKS OFFER A RESPITE FROM THE DAILY GRIND.
HERE IN THE PARADE GARDENS, YOUR MODEST ADMISSION FEE
ENTITLES YOU TO A RENTED LOUNGE CHAIR
AND A PERFECT CHANCE: TO SEE HOW SLOW YOU CAN GET YOUR PULSE.
BATH'S AVON RIVER OFFERS MORE EXCUSES FOR RELAXATION.
YOU CAN HOP A LITTLE CRUISE.
OR, FOR MORE EXERCISE, YOU CAN HIKE OR BIKE ALONG ITS CANAL.
THESE WATERWAYS WERE BUILT NOT FOR LAZY VACATIONERS,
BUT TO SHIP COAL AND INDUSTRIAL CARGO.
THE TOW PATHS -- ORIGINALLY THE TRACK FOR HARD-WORKING,
BARGE-TUGGING HORSES --: ARE NOW POPULAR FOR HIKERS, BIKERS,
AND DOGS OUT WALKING THEIR MASTERS.
CANAL BOATERS ENJOY AN EASYGOING PACE.
THEIR IDYLLIC CRUISES ARE PUNCTUATED
BY INDUSTRIAL-AGE LOCKS.
WITH THE HELP OF THESE LOCKS,
LAID-BACK VACATIONERS CAN CRUISE ALL OVER ENGLAND.
LOCKS ARE SELF-SERVICE...
AND PASSERSBY ARE WELCOME TO HELP OUT.
FOR THE PROPER BATH EXPERIENCE,
I LIKE TO SLEEP IN A FINE GEORGIAN HOUSE.
OUR HOTEL COMES WITH PLUSH LOUNGES,
A BEDROOM THAT FITS RIGHT IN WITH ALL THE GRAND
NEOCLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE WE'VE BEEN ENJOYING,
AND AN ELEGANT BREAKFAST THAT CAN BE
VERY HEARTY...
AS WELL AS VERY HEALTHY.
BATH EXPERTLY ENTERTAINS ITS MANY VISITORS.
FREE TOWN WALKS ARE OFFERED: BY THE MAYOR'S CORPS OF HONORARY GUIDES.
THESE VOLUNTEERS BRING THE TOWN'S
AMAZING GEORGIAN HERITAGE TO LIFE.
Man: IT'S HUMANIST ARCHITECTURE.
DO YOU REMEMBER THE LEONARDO DRAWING
OF THE MAN WHO STANDS LIKE THIS...
AND WHAT DO YOU GET?
YOU GET A CIRCLE, AND THEN YOU GET A SQUARE
AND YOU GET ALL SORTS OF GEOMETRY BEHIND THIS.
SO WHAT I'M SAYING IS,
THE NEW TOWN THAT WE'VE GOT IN BATH
EXPLORING THIS OLD CLASSICAL,
OR REINVENTING THIS OLD CLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE,
IS WHAT THE NEW TOWN IS ABOUT.
Steves: YOU DON'T NEED A GUIDE
TO ENJOY BATH'S MUSEUM OF COSTUME.
IT DISPLAYS 400 YEARS OF FASHION,
ONE FRILLY DECADE AT A TIME.
WITH PROVIDED AUDIO GUIDES DOING THE TOUR GUIDING,
YOU CAN TRACK THE EVOLUTION OF CLOTHING STYLES
RIGHT THOUGH THE AGES.
IN ABOUT 1600, GLOVES WERE AN IMPORTANT ACCESSORY --
MADE WITH WHITE GOAT SKIN, LOVINGLY EMBROIDERED,
TO MAKE YOUR FINGERS LOOK: MORE ELEGANT AND SLENDER THAN THEY REALLY WERE.
IN THE 1740s, ARISTOCRATIC WOMEN WORE BASKET-LIKE HOOPS
TO SHOW OFF THEIR FABULOUSLY EXPENSIVE
AND EXTRAVAGANTLY EMBROIDERED COURT DRESSES.
IN THE MID-1800s, WOMEN SHAPED THEIR BODIES
WITH SMALLER "UNDER STRUCTURES."
THOSE WIDE HOOPS EVOLVED TO MORE DISCREET BUSTLES.
WITH THE OUTBREAK OF WORLD WAR II,
DESIGNERS MADE DRESSES THAT WERE CHIC,
YET PRACTICAL,
STYLISH, YET SIMPLE.
BATH'S MUSEUM OF COSTUME TAKES YOU RIGHT UP TO TODAY.
BATH WAS NOT ALL ARISTOCRATIC SPLENDOR.
THERE'S A GRITTIER SIDE TO ITS HISTORY, AS WELL.
LIKE THE REST OF ENGLAND,
THE STORY HERE IN THE 19th CENTURY
WAS THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION.
AT THE MUSEUM OF BATH AT WORK,
VOLUNTEERS SHOW OFF THE QUIRKY BUSINESS
OF THE INGENIOUS MR. BOWLER.
THIS IS THE HEAVY MACHINE SHOP.
DATING ALL THESE MACHINES BETWEEN ABOUT 1850, 1880.
STEAM-DRIVEN.
AND WITH A SET OF MACHINES LIKE THIS,
THERE WAS VIRTUALLY NO ENGINEERING JOB
THAT HE COULDN'T TACKLE.
PEOPLE IN THE TOWN HAD A NEED,
MR. BOWLER WOULD TAKE CARE OF IT.
ABSOLUTELY.
Steves: AND MR. BOWLER TOOK ADVANTAGE
OF THE LOCAL WATERS, TOO.
HE BOTTLED HIS OWN FIZZY WATER.
RIGHT, THIS IS WHERE HE BOTTLED HIS MINERAL WATERS.
SO SODA POP WAS ONE OF HIS BUSINESSES?
ABSOLUTELY, YES.
AND IT WAS FILLED ON THIS: RATHER INGENIOUS MACHINE YOU SEE HERE.
AND ALL YOU DID --: YOU ROTATED THAT AROUND...
AND THERE YOU GO.
WOW!
THERE YOU ARE.
MR. BOWLER'S SODA POP, 1875.
THAT'S RIGHT.
BATH IS DRENCHED IN HISTORY.
AND A GREAT WAY TO LEARN: ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT THAT
IS TO JOIN THE BIZARRE BATH WALK.
EACH EVENING THROUGH THE SUMMER,
LOCAL ACTORS GIVE VISITORS: A GOOFY AND IMMENSELY ENTERTAINING
DOSE OF STREET THEATER.
Man: WELL, WE'RE GOING TO STOP HERE FOR A SECOND
BECAUSE...WELL, I'M EXHAUSTED, ACTUALLY.
IT'S THE MOST WALKING I'VE DONE FOR AGES.
AND AT THIS STAGE WE'RE GOING TO PROVE
THAT THERE IS SUCH A THING AS MIND READING.
FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE TELEPATHIC,
HERE'S A QUICK JOKE FOR YOU, FIRST OF ALL.
[ LAUGHTER ]
AS THIS STAGE, I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU TRULY
HOW TO BE ACCEPTED AS A LOCAL PERSON HERE IN BATH.
BECAUSE THIS IS A LOCAL BYLAW,
A LOCAL REGULATION THAT STATES QUITE CLEARLY
THAT ONE HAS TO HOP ACROSS THIS ROAD.
[ LAUGHTER ]
IF LOCAL PEOPLE SEE YOU HOPPING
ACROSS THE ROAD, THEY THINK
YOU'RE A LOCAL PERSON AS WELL.
AND THEY SMILE AT YOU VERY WARMLY.
THEY REALLY DO.
OVER, OVER YOU GO.
OVER YOU GO, THAT'S GOOD.
OVER YOU GO.
[ LAUGHTER ]
NEXT WE'RE HEADING FOR THE HISTORIC
AND EQUALLY ENTERTAINING TOWN OF YORK,
IT'S JUST A COUPLE HOURS NORTH BY TRAIN.
BRITAIN'S TRAINS ARE SOME: OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE PER MILE IN EUROPE.
HOWEVER, ASSUMING YOU'RE ON A MAIN LINE,
THEY'RE FAST, FREQUENT, RELIABLE, AND COMFORTABLE.
YORK OFFERS A FASCINATING COLLECTION
OF GREAT SIGHTS MIXED WITH: AN EASYGOING PEDESTRIAN AMBIENCE,
ALL LASSOED WITHIN ITS FORMIDABLE WALL.
ITS RICH HISTORY GOES BACK TO ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES.
THIS COLUMN IS A SCANT REMINDER
OF WHEN YORK WAS A ROMAN PROVINCIAL CAPITAL --
THE NORTHERNMOST CITY IN THE EMPIRE.
CONSTANTINE WAS ACTUALLY PROCLAIMED EMPEROR RIGHT HERE
IN THE YEAR 306.
LATER, IN THE 5th CENTURY, WHEN ROME WAS FALLING,
THE EMPEROR SENT A LETTER TO BRITANNIA,
AS THIS PART OF THE EMPIRE WAS CALLED,
AND HE SAID, BASICALLY, "YOU'RE ON YOUR OWN."
WHEN ROME PULLED OUT, THE BARBARIANS MOVED IN,
AND YORK BECAME THE CAPITAL OF AN ANGLO-SAXON KINGDOM.
THE VIKINGS LATER TOOK THE TOWN,
AND FROM THE 9th THROUGH THE 11th CENTURIES,
IT WAS A THRIVING DANISH TRADING CENTER CALLED JORVIK.
THEN CAME THE NORMANS.
MEDIEVAL YORK GREW RICH ON THE WOOL TRADE.
WITH 9,000 INHABITANTS,
IT BECAME ENGLAND'S SECOND CITY.
HENRY VIII USED THE CITY'S FINE CHURCH, OR MINSTER,
AS HIS ANGLICAN CHURCH'S NORTHERN CAPITAL.
THE MINSTER IS THE PRIDE OF YORK.
BRITAIN'S LARGEST GOTHIC CHURCH
BRILLIANTLY SHOWS THAT THE LATE MIDDLE AGES WERE FAR FROM DARK.
THE YORK MINSTER IS FILLED WITH HISTORY AND TRADITION.
ITS GRAND BELLS HAVE CALLED PEOPLE TO WORSHIP HERE
FOR WELL OVER A THOUSAND YEARS.
EACH DAY AT NOON THE HUGE BELL NICKNAMED "GREAT PETER"
IS RUNG FROM THE CHURCH TOWER.
AT 10 TONS, THE BELL CAN ACTUALLY RING ITS RINGER.
[ BELL RINGS ]
INSIDE, YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION MIGHT BE
THE SPACIOUSNESS AND BRIGHTNESS.
THE NAVE, FROM ABOUT 1300,
IS ONE OF THE WIDEST GOTHIC NAVES IN EUROPE.
ON FESTIVAL SUNDAYS, 4,000 WORSHIPPERS PACK THE PLACE.
THE CENTRAL TOWER SOARS NEARLY 200 FEET.
THE NECK-SAVING MIRROR ALLOWS YOU TO MARVEL AT IT COMFORTABLY.
THE CHURCH HAS MORE ORIGINAL MEDIEVAL GLASS
THAN THE REST OF ENGLAND'S CHURCHES COMBINED.
THE EAST WINDOW IS THE SIZE OF A TENNIS COURT.
THE GREAT WEST WINDOW HAS EXCEPTIONAL STONE TRACERY.
WITH ITS NICKNAME, "THE HEART OF YORK,"
IT REPRESENTS THE SACRED HEART OF CHRIST
AND REMINDS WORSHIPPERS OF HIS LOVE FOR THE WORLD.
THE INTRICACY OF THE PAINTED AND STAINED GLASS
HELD TOGETHER BY LEAD IS EXQUISITE.
THE FINE DETAILS, FAR TOO TINY TO SEE FROM THE FLOOR,
ARE SAID TO BE FOR GOD'S EYES ONLY.
THE CHOIR SCREEN SEPARATES THE NAVE FROM THE CHOIR.
THIS ORNATE WALL OF CARVINGS IS LINED
WITH FOUR CENTURIES OF ENGLISH KINGS,
FROM WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR TO HENRY VI.
WHILE MOST OF THE FACES ARE GENERIC KINGS
WITH THE SAME SCRAGGLY BEARDS,
HENRY, DURING WHOSE REIGN IT WAS CARVED IN 1461,
IS BOTH GENTEEL AND ENGAGED.
YORK'S MINSTER IS CONSIDERED ENGLAND'S
NUMBER-TWO ANGLICAN CHURCH, AFTER CANTERBURY.
THE ANGLICAN CHURCH CAME INTO EXISTENCE ABOUT 500 YEARS AGO,
BORN OUT OF EUROPE'S LONG POWER STRUGGLE
BETWEEN POPES AND KINGS.
ENGLAND'S SPLIT WITH THE VATICAN GOES BACK TO KING HENRY VIII.
HENRY WANTED TO DIVORCE HIS WIFE AND MARRY HIS MISTRESS.
THE POPE SAID NO.
HENRY DID ANYWAY, AND DECLARED
THAT HE, AND NOT THE POPE,
WAS THE HEAD OF ENGLAND'S CATHOLICS.
WHILE HENRY CONSIDERED HIMSELF A FAITHFUL CATHOLIC,
JUST NOT A ROMAN CATHOLIC,
HIS CHURCH OF ENGLAND SOON EMBRACED
THE ESSENCE OF THE PROTESTANT REFORMATION.
CANON JEREMY FLETCHER EXPLAINS IN A NUTSHELL
HOW ANGLICANISM DIFFERS FROM ROMAN CATHOLICISM.
HENRY THE VIII'S ARCHBISHOP WAS ARCHBISHOP CRANMER,
AND HE DEFINED THREE PILLARS FOR THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND --
SCRIPTURE AND REASON AND TRADITION.
THE BIBLE, OUR OWN HUMAN UNDERSTANDING,
AND THE TRADITION OF THE CHURCH.
AND THAT'S THE GREAT DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN THE NEW CHURCH OF ENGLAND
AND THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH THEN,
THAT THE MEDIEVAL ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH
WAS MUCH LESS BASED ON THE BIBLE.
THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND IS A REFORMATION CHURCH.
IT'S A PROTESTANT CHURCH.
BUT THE STRUCTURES REMAINED: CATHOLIC ONES AS WELL,
SO IT HAS BOTH.
WE LIKE TO DESCRIBE OURSELVES
AS BEING CATHOLIC AND REFORMED.
Steves: YORK'S MIGHTY WALL IS A REMINDER
THAT THE CITY WAS MORE THAN A RELIGIOUS POWER.
IT WAS A MILITARY AND POLITICAL CENTER,
VITAL FOR THE CONTROL OF NORTH ENGLAND
FROM ROMAN TIMES THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES.
THESE RAMPARTS, SOME OF WHICH SIT
ON THE REMAINS OF THE ROMAN WALL,
ARE MOSTLY MEDIEVAL -- 14th AND 15th CENTURY.
EACH OF THE TOWN GATES WAS HEAVILY FORTIFIED --
AND I IMAGINE PRETTY SCARY IF YOU WERE TRYING TO BREAK IN.
GAZE UP AT THE TOWER, IMAGINING 10 ARCHERS
BEHIND THE CROSS-SHAPED ARROW SLITS.
KEEP AN EYE ON THOSE 12th-CENTURY GUARDS,
WITH THEIR STONES RAISED AND PRIMED
TO PROTECT THEIR TOWN.
TODAY THOSE WALLS SEEM: ONLY TO PROTECT THE HALF-TIMBERED CHARM.
YE OLDE DOWNTOWN YORK -- MUCH OF IT
AS CAR-FREE TODAY AS IT WAS 500 YEARS AGO --
IS FILLED WITH CHARACTERISTIC OLD BUILDINGS.
IT FEELS MADE FOR WINDOW-SHOPPING,
PEOPLE-WATCHING, AND STROLLING.
YORK'S RICH HISTORY GOES BACK MUCH FURTHER.
THE RUINS OF ST. MARY'S ABBEY --
ONCE THE WEALTHIEST ABBEY IN NORTH ENGLAND --
ARE LOCATED IN A LUSH AND INVITING PARK.
IN HIS FIGHT WITH THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH,
HENRY VIII SAW THE WEALTHY MONASTERIES AND CONVENTS
AS BOTH A THREAT TO HIS RULE AND SOME EASY MONEY.
IN WHAT'S CALLED THE DISSOLUTION,
HE DISSOLVED THE RELIGIOUS ORDERS.
HE TOOK THEIR MONEY AND DESTROYED THEIR GREAT BUILDINGS.
THE YORKSHIRE MUSEUM --: ACTUALLY BUILT INTO THE RUINS OF THE ABBEY --
TELLS THE STORY OF LIFE HERE FOR THE MONKS,
HOW ALL THAT ENDED, AND MUCH MORE.
THE ANCIENT ROMAN COLLECTION INCLUDES SLICE-OF-LIFE EXHIBITS
TO THE SKULL OF A MAN: KILLED BY A SWORD BLOW TO THE HEAD --
MAKING IT GRAPHICALLY CLEAR: THAT THE STRUGGLE BETWEEN ROMANS AND BARBARIANS
WAS A VIOLENT ONE.
THIS FINE 8th-CENTURY ANGLO-SAXON HELMET
SHOWS A BIT OF BARBARIAN REFINEMENT.
AND THOSE VIKINGS -- THEY WORE SOME PRETTY DECENT SHOES
AND ACTUALLY COMBED THEIR HAIR.
THE MIDDLEHAM JEWEL,
AN EXQUISITELY ETCHED 15th-CENTURY PENDANT,
IS CONSIDERED THE FINEST PIECE OF GOTHIC JEWELRY IN BRITAIN.
TO THE NOBLE LADY WHO WORE THIS ON A NECKLACE,
IT BOTH HELPED HER WORSHIP AND PROTECTED HER FROM ILLNESS.
THE BACK OF IT, WHICH RESTED NEAR HER HEART,
SHOWS THE NATIVITY.
THE FRONT SHOWS THE HOLY TRINITY CROWNED BY A SAPPHIRE,
WHICH PEOPLE BELIEVED GAVE YOUR PRAYERS
TOP PRIORITY WITH GOD.
FOR A LIVELY CHANGE OF PACE,
LOOK FOR THE LOCAL MORRIS DANCERS,
WHO BOLDLY KEEP CENTURIES: OF DANCING TRADITION ALIVE.
MIXING BOTH PAGAN AND CHRISTIAN TRADITIONS,
THEY'RE ALWAYS READY TO CELEBRATE --
CHEERLEADING THE TOWN THROUGH
THE RETURN OF SPRING, THE HARVEST,
YOUR MOTHER'S BIRTHDAY... WHATEVER.
[ ENGLISH FOLK MUSIC PLAYING ]
FOR SOMETHING A LITTLE WEIGHTIER,
VISIT YORK'S NATIONAL RAILWAY MUSEUM.
SHOWING TWO CENTURIES OF BRITISH RAILROAD HISTORY,
IT CLAIMS TO BE THE BIGGEST AND BEST
RAILROAD MUSEUM ANYWHERE.
FANNING OUT FROM A GRAND ROUNDHOUSE
IS A STUNNING ARRAY: OF BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED HISTORIC TRAINS.
A STEAM ENGINE IS SLICED OPEN,
SHOWING CYLINDERS,
DRIVING WHEELS, AND SMOKE BOX, ALL IN ACTION.
YOU'LL TRACE THE EVOLUTION OF STEAM-POWERED TRANSPORTATION
FROM VERY EARLY TRAINS: LIKE THIS 1830 STAGE COACH ON RAILS,
WITH ITS CRUDE STEAM ENGINE,
TO THE AERODYNAMIC MALLARD, FAMOUS AS THE FIRST TRAIN
TO TRAVEL AT TWO MILES PER MINUTE,
A MARVEL BACK IN 1938.
YORK HAS ALL THESE GREAT HISTORIC TRAINS
BECAUSE IT'S LONG BEEN THE HUB
OF TRAIN TRANSPORTATION FOR NORTHERN ENGLAND.
IT STILL IS TODAY, AND IT'S TIME FOR US TO TRAVEL ON.
I HOPE YOU ENJOYED OUR LOOK AT TWO GREAT CITIES --
BATH AND YORK.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELING.
CHEERIO.
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