Fit 2 Stitch

Peggy Sagers: The automatic continuous clothing closure, commonly called the zipper, was first invented in 1917, then put into trousers and children's clothing in the 1920s and '30s.

During the '40s, the war increased the use of zippers as fashion took a backseat in war clothing.

Regardless of the name, I wish the people who had invented the zipper had given us an easy way to insert them.

Today, Ella Pritsker will show us great, easy methods of zipper installation.

Join us.

announcer: "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors.

announcer: Reliable Corporation.

announcer: Plano Sewing Center.

announcer: Elliott Berman Textiles.

announcer: Bennos Buttons.

announcer: And Clutch Nails.

Peggy: Over the years, many of you have asked me, "What else can I put in besides a zipper?

I can't do zippers."

So, I thought and thought and I can't think of a better person other than Ella to come and help us do zippers, because today we're going to learn both an invisible zipper and an exposed zipper.

And those two type of zippers, if we can master those, we're on a good way of doing some great garments.

So thank you for being here.

Ella Pritsker: Thank you so much for having me.

And you are absolutely right.

Those are the two ways that you can install a zipper and have a functional opening and also a pretty one.

Peggy: Yeah, because exposed zippers are so popular right now in fashion.

They're just everywhere.

Ella: Very much so.

They're very trendy.

They're also adding a nice accent to any garment-- Peggy: And functionality as well as a design.

I think designers are using both.

Ella: And I think that exposed zippers are just so pretty, like this one, for instance.

It is sparkly.

Without it, the garment would be just blah.

With it, it's very edgy.

Peggy: So, the design element is in there also.

Ella: Yes.

Peggy: So, we're gonna do what first?

Ella: Let's show you how to install an invisible zipper.

Peggy: Which should be invisible by nature of the name, right?

It seems like whenever I do an invisible zipper, it's not quite invisible.

So, if you could help us with that, that would be great.

Ella: It is the easiest thing to install.

It really is.

And so many people are afraid of invisible zippers, and there's no reason to be afraid.

You just need to know how to do it.

Peggy: Okay, I love that.

Ella: So, let me show you, and it's very simple.

Peggy: Okay.

Ella: So, the first thing that we are going to do is obviously identify the length of our zipper, sew your center back seam all the way, or whatever-- whichever seam all the way to that end of the zipper, and give yourself a couple more inches.

Don't make the opening exactly precisely at the edge of the-- at the end of the zipper.

That will make it very difficult to put in.

Give yourself an inch or two or so.

And then the first thing we are going to do is we are going to lay it down flat and we are going to pin it in place.

Peggy: And you align the raw edge of the zipper to the raw edge of the fabric.

Ella: That's correct.

We're going to pin it in place on one side first, and then we're going to come to the end of the-- Peggy: I love that, because that edge is just right in there.

So, that seam allowance that you use is basically whatever the width is of your tape.

Ella: You could do that, and, for instance, if you are leaving a much larger seam allowance than the width of your tape, which a lot of times we do that in couture garments.

Peggy: To adjust for sizing.

Ella: That's right.

Then in that case, you're going to figure out how far away would your zipper-- so we're going to place the teeth right next to the end of the seam.

Peggy: Okay.

Ella: And we're gonna figure out how far is the zipper from your end of the seam allowance from the edge here.

And In that case, we are going to pin the zipper right on that same width from the edge of the seam allowance here all the way-- Peggy: So I can bury that seam allowance as long as I do it all the way down.

Ella: Correct.

You just follow that same guide.

So, the first thing we're going to do is we're going to pin it in on one side and then we're going to open this up and make sure that our zipper is so straight and following the seam so that you don't have a little-- Peggy: Bubble.

Ella: Bubble here on one side or the other.

It really needs to be flat.

Flat, right up against your seam.

And then we pin it on the other side, and then we're going to stitch it with zipper foot, just a regular zipper foot.

Don't--if you have a great invisible zipper foot, terrific.

And if you know how to use it and you've learned how to navigate that, that's terrific.

But the easiest thing to do is literally just use a regular zipper foot.

Peggy: I agree, because some zipper foots out there, you can't even see where you're stitching.

They block completely your view of where the needle's going.

Ella: Right, and what's important is to know where to stitch.

So, what I usually do when I set my sewing machine, I unroll the little bit of the beginning of the zipper, I set my needle, and then I keep my hand on this zipper tape and I unroll it as I go, and it's just that easy.

Peggy: Can I ask you about an old rumor?

The old rumor is that you're supposed to press the teeth.

Ella: No.

Peggy: Yeah, thank you.

Peggy: Okay, just because I've often thought, can you imagine all those factories out there just pressing the zipper?

Ella: Nobody's pressing the zipper.

Peggy: So, there's no need to press it.

Just do it with your finger, roll it down, stitch below.

Okay, and do you baste?

Do you ever baste?

Ella: You can baste.

And a lot of times when we do a fitting with a customer, we do baste our zippers in and we use a basting thread.

A basting thread is something that actually is out there and you can purchase basting thread, and the difference with it is the reason we use it.

It's very easily broken.

It's not going to leave the indentations in your garment when you press it.

So, you can use basting thread, and that's what we do.

We are just going to baste it in with large stitches right in that little ridge, in that little fold, and baste it all the way down and then baste it all the way up to the other side.

Peggy: And you do that to check fitting?

Ella: When we fit a garment, we sew the zipper in with basting thread and then we try the garment on for fit.

Peggy: That's a great tip.

Ella: And then we finish it once the garment is fitted and we are satisfied with the fit and we're satisfied with where the zipper placement is.

And then we can stitch it in.

Once you stitched it in, then all you have to do is pull this little zipper pull through.

The moment of truth.

Peggy: That's so true.

Ella: We're all holding our breath.

Peggy: That is so true, because look at the bottom.

Ella: Here you are.

Peggy: Look at that.

Ella: You shouldn't have any dimples or bubbles.

It should be very flat and invisible.

Peggy: So, on a personal note, do you still do the happy dance every time it's nice and flat or have you gotten over that?

Ella: Yes, I do.

Peggy: I mean, it's just beautiful.

It's just so perfect.

Ella: I'm happy every time it works out.

Peggy: Yeah, and so, but it's just being careful in this first step and working it straight.

Ella: Yes, we have to really make sure that there are no bubbles and no differences in the length when we're pinning it in or stitching it in with our sewing machine.

Now, a lot of times what we do is use a zipper that is a little too long for the zipper opening.

For instance, if you have a longer zipper in a color that you need, you're going to use that one.

And so, in this case, whether it's a skirt or a pant, I'm going to shorten-- I'm gonna cut the zipper.

Now we're not just gonna cut it because there's always a chance that it's gonna separate.

And in order not to have that accident, I brought this little technique for you to learn how to finish the zipper.

How to cut it off and how to finish it.

So, the first thing we are going to do is we are going to take a piece of interfacing.

And I always use interfacing unless the zipper is exposed.

In other words, you're going to see it on the other side of the garment, on the wrong side.

But I always use interfacing.

So, I'm going to wrap my zipper with the interfacing, just like that.

I'm going to put a pin here in order to hold it in place, and then I'm going to stitch it.

So, I'm going to stitch it right across.

Peggy: You stitch right through the teeth?

Ella: Right through the teeth, once or twice.

You don't have to go over many times.

And then once you stitched it, you're just going to take your scissors and you're going to cut the excess just like that.

Once you cut the excess, you're gonna pull this up, and I don't know if you're recognizing-- Then you're going to just pull this down and stitch it right across.

Peggy: Oh my goodness.

Ella: And there you have it.

Peggy: Wow, and so you make a new end because I've actually had this happen, we didn't talk about this, but I've actually had this happen where I cut off an invisible zipper and it came apart.

Ella: Of course it would.

Peggy: And I'm gonna tell you, I spent probably two hours trying to put that stupid invisible zipper back, and you know what?

It would have taken me a whole lot less time to just finish off the bottom.

Ella: And it just gives you that security of knowing that the zipper is not going to come apart.

Peggy: I mean, look at that.

That is beautiful.

But once you fold it up, you just leave that extra there.

Ella: No, I do not leave the extra.

Actually, I am going to cut it off and then I'm going to press it.

And the reason I use the interfacing is because I want the glue to take and just seal it completely.

Peggy: So, the interfacing use use is actually a fusible.

Ella: It's a fusible interfacing.

Peggy: Oh, I see, okay.

Oh, that is-- what a great little trick.

That is amazing.

Ella: So, once we finished our zipper like that, then we really don't have any worries, but also it looks good.

I really like my garments to look very nice on the inside as they do on the outside.

Peggy: As well as the outside.

Ella: It makes it special.

Peggy: It does.

I agree with that.

And it's beyond lining too.

It's really not just about lining.

It's really about the methods used in the process.

So, I noticed you've got some garments where you've put these invisible zippers.

I wanna take a look at them, because they're just-- Ella: So, here we've used-- Peggy: So next level to me.

Ella: We've used an invisible zipper in this beautiful wedding gown, and I'm going to open it.

So, we see that even though we used an invisible zipper in this gown and attached our lining in-- to the zipper tape by hand so that it would look very nice and supple, and then because it wasn't quite as invisible because of the lace work that we've done on this gown.

The whole gown is sculpted from pieces of lace.

We've also decided to hide the zipper completely and did these motifs here.

We sewed the motifs on top.

Peggy: I have a question-- couple of questions.

I always thought an invisible zipper wasn't as strong as, like, a regular zipper.

Ella: There are many different gauges of invisible zipper.

So, for some gowns that have maybe a corset built in and they need to withstand some force on them because as you breathe, the gown expands and you want to have a zipper that will withstand-- Peggy: Not break.

Ella: Right, withstand your movement and breath, especially if it's a very tight gown, you want to use a higher gauge zipper, so-- Peggy: The higher the number-- Ella: Yes.

Peggy: The bigger the teeth.

Ella: Correct.

Peggy: And the bigger the teeth, the more secure?

Ella: That's correct.

Peggy: Oh, okay.

Ella: So, there are zippers that are made for a gown that are wider, the teeth are wider, but also the zipper tape is wider and they are stronger.

Peggy: So, the invisible zippers are just strong, okay.

So, I just thought that it was bad, you know, invisible zippers were weaker than others, but it's not.

It's depending on the gauge.

Ella: That's correct.

Peggy: Okay, that's great information.

Thank you for that.

Ella: And also, really, the invisible-- the zipper tape of the zipper itself plays into a lot of decision where to use it and how to use it.

Peggy: The zipper tape.

Ella: The zipper tape itself.

Ella: I always tend to use something that has a nylon tape because it's more pliable and it's softer and it's not going to be rigid.

For instance, there's a lot of zippers, invisible zippers, that are made with a cotton zipper tape.

And I'm not very keen to that because cotton becomes a little stiffer as it ages and you wash the garment, for instance, if it's dress or a pair of pants, and you wash the garment, it gets stiffer, and we don't want that, so-- Peggy: Sometimes it puckers too, doesn't it?

Ella: It puckers, that's correct.

So, I always tend to use zippers that have nylon zipper tape.

For instance, with pants, I always use an invisible zipper and I put it in the back seam, in the center back seam of the garment, because I try to avoid having a zipper in the front or in the side.

The only straight seam-- Peggy: And I've never heard of that.

So, I love that because you're so logical as to why you do it.

Ella: Well, the only straight seam we have in the pant is your center back seam.

So, it will be obviously the easiest place to put a zipper in.

And also, it will not pucker when you sit down or when you move.

So, when you have a zipper sewn in the front or in the side, when you sit down, it will-- Peggy: It sticks you.

The bottom where I cut it off always sticks me.

Ella: Well, that too.

And it also-- it's very stiff, like boning.

So, it will be bowing out, and who wants that?

Peggy: I love that.

So, center back.

Ella: Center back seam and install it in.

Very, very-- it's very easy and very simple.

So, we used it in this dress as well because we wanted to have these beautiful buttons be the feature of the dress.

And so, we used an invisible zipper in this dress as well.

And one of the things that we really want to do is bring the zipper when we're sewing it in all the way up to the top of the neckline, and that way-- Peggy: So hook and eye is not needed.

Ella: Is not needed.

Peggy: Yeah, I love that.

It's so much cleaner than the hook and eye.

Ella: Every zipper has a stopper and it will not come apart and you will not have this embarrassing little V at the top.

And also sew the lining to the zipper tape and it'll give you a nice clean finish on the inside as well.

Peggy: Let's take a look at this one, I love this one.

And this one, there's just some issues here.

Again, like, this is so clean.

No hook and eye is needed to keep that zipper up.

I've heard that over and over again.

"You have to have a hook and eye."

Ella: Not necessarily.

You really don't have to have a hook and eye.

Besides that, it gets hard to reach back there to close the hook and eye, so-- Peggy: You have to have somebody help you get dressed.

Ella: So, just installing this invisible zipper in a way that you don't see any dimples, and then you can have a very clean finish here, and it makes it-- Peggy: So, when you're starting, don't do a long zipper.

Start with a short zipper.

Practice on a short zipper.

Ella: Very true.

Very true.

Peggy: Then show me this exposed zipper, because I love these exposed zippers, and everything you've done is just getting easier for me, so let's make this easy, if that's okay.

Ella: So, the exposed zippers are all the rage now, and they're super easy to install.

Peggy: Well, like you said on this one, they're so pretty.

I mean, I've seen Di-- you know, there's some pretty zippers out there.

Ella: It's a very pretty detail, and it also is functional.

And so, it's also very easy to install.

So, let me show you how to do that.

We're going to take our garment.

We're going to mark on the right side where the zipper goes.

And so, we're going to measure the length of the zipper, where the zipper ends, where the teeth begin.

We're going to lay this down exactly where we want to install it and put a little pencil mark or pin, and then you're going to put it down, mark that, take it off, cut this open, just like I did here.

So, right here, I've already cut it open, and I've already-- Peggy: And they go just to little angles.

Ella: Right, so actually, if you'd like, I'm going to show you how to do that.

And there's a little trick to that.

So, we're gonna open it up.

Peggy: This is the scary part.

Ella: This is the scary part.

Peggy: You're jumping off the cliff, no parachute.

Ella: Especially when you already have sewn the entire garment.

Peggy: And that's the mark you've put too, that's the mark?

Ella: And then the mark is going to identify the width of the zipper.

So, you're going to take the zipper and kind of fold it a little bit so you don't cut it any further than the width of the zipper itself.

And then you just kind of cut into it.

Peggy: You've got to have sharp scissors for this one.

Ella: For sure.

You have to have good scissors.

Peggy: Because otherwise you'd just chew up the fabric.

Ella: Yes.

You want to do this in one cut.

And then you're going to take your zipper and place it so that this little corner that you have just cut, you're going to place that right at the end of your zipper where the zipper ends, where the zipper teeth end gonna place that.

You're gonna sew it on.

Peggy: Oh, you're sewing across it.

Ella: Yes.

You're gonna sew it on.

You're gonna sew it across right here, just like I've done it already here.

Peggy: So, this right here, this little tiny thing that you just cut, a lot of times they call that the triangle.

You're just stitching right across the base of that triangle.

Ella: That's correct.

Peggy: Keeping it secure onto that, I love that.

Ella: Before we go to that stage, I also wanna show you that just like we did here, we hid the end of the zipper.

We are going to take a little piece of fabric.

It can be the same as the fabric of the garment or it could be a contrasting, just a small piece of fabric.

We're gonna fold it on a 45 degree angle and just pin it down to the end of the zipper.

And the reason we want to do that is so that it really just hides the end of the zipper, because the end of the zipper is never really pretty, so-- Peggy: That's so interesting.

So, you're just doing that.

It doesn't matter the fabric.

Will it show in the end?

Ella: Yes, it will, it will be exposed just like it is here.

Peggy: Okay, so if you want it, you should match it, if you want.

I guess it depends on the look.

Ella: It depends on how you want your garment to look at the end.

It could be a feature.

But in this case, so I already sewed it on.

So, here it is.

Peggy: You've got the bottom one done.

Ella: We've sewed, the bottom triangle on, and then I wanna just show you how it looks.

So, once you've sewn the bottom on, you're going to just take it, turn it, and lay this down right next to the zipper.

Peggy: Go right up the side.

Ella: Yes, and basically, just sew it right next to the zipper teeth.

If you do that, you open it up, and voila, you're going to have your entire zipper in boxed just like we have it right here.

All you have to do is press it.

Peggy: I'm just so excited about this.

Now, this piece was interfaced.

Ella: I interfaced only the zipper opening, and it really is important to do that.

Peggy: Oh, I see what you're saying.

Like right here, that's cool.

I don't think I've ever seen that, but I love it.

Ella: Yeah.

It just hides that little end.

Peggy: But it's beautiful, especially I like that little angle like that.

Ella: Yeah, you don't have to do it on the angle.

I just think that it's very nice.

It's a nice touch.

Peggy: I have seen it straight, now that you say that.

I've seen it straight across.

It looks like it's a little pocket down there.

Ella: Yes, and also, like, right here, I sewed it on without that end, and you can see the difference.

So, you see the entire exposed zipper there.

Peggy: You just see the stopper, I guess.

Ella: Correct.

Peggy: All right, and if you're doing it like this, do you want that stopper to show?

Is that kind of professional?

Ella: It depends again-- it depends on the look that you're going for.

There's nothing wrong with a stopper showing at all.

You can show it, and you can also hide it.

It gives it a more tailored, cleaner look.

Peggy: It does, it's just amazing how couture that looks.

Show us these zippers here, just for fun.

Ella: Okay, so this is an activewear piece, and we have a dual separating zipper here, and you can-- the wearer can bring it up and have it open here, and also you can-- Peggy: This is what I love about the dual separating zippers.

Ella: Right?

Peggy: Yeah.

Ella: And then you can wear it all the way up like that, or you can open it up here if you have a shirt, and then you can just do that.

Peggy: Yeah, it's almost like a button at the waist, 'cause you can close up one and do the other.

Ella: And I love the fact that it's just so pretty.

It makes the garment pretty.

It gives it a very beautiful detail.

And this puffer coat has a dual separating zipper as well.

So, it's a little bit trickier to put dual separating zipper or any zipper in a long garment.

Like, this is a long garment, so-- Peggy: Because the accuracy-- Ella: Because you have to be very precise and very accurate.

Line up all of your details and mark where they are on the zipper and mark, for instance, there's a neckline, so you have to mark that, and also mark at the bottom where it ends.

So, and other than that, it is just as easy as any other zipper.

Peggy: Patience.

Ella: Very, yes.

Peggy: Promise you'll come back.

Ella: I would love to.

Peggy: Oh, thank you so much.

Ella: Thank you for having me.

Peggy: Your tips are just incredible, and I know they'll help so many out there.

Ella: Thank you so much.

Peggy: Thank you.

Peggy: We have previously defined Haute Couture as a specialized method of sewing that is regulated by the French government and includes business restrictions as well as sewing methods.

However, these methods can be achieved by you at home.

Join us for fine finishing taught by an expert next time on "Fit 2 Stitch."

announcer: "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors.

announcer: Reliable Corporation.

announcer: Plano Sewing Center.

announcer: Elliott Berman Textiles.

announcer: Bennos Buttons.

announcer: And Clutch Nails.

announcer: To order a 4 DVD set of "Fit 2 Stitch" Series 13, please visit our website at fit2stitch.com.